Fit Issue (crank is offset 0.200")

[RojoRacing]

So after last years 24hr race I had an arch pain appear in my right foot that left me limping for about two weeks. The odd thing was there wasn't anything I remember noticing as far as foot pain during the race. Now every time I ride the V on the stationary train there's always something off with my right foot. I can't tell if it feel like its trying to tip my knee in or out but there is something funky about the angle or something, I just can't put my finger on it.

So today I measured the pedals or more correctly the crank arm distance from the boom and I'm finding it's 1.5" on the left and 1.7" on the right. I tried loosening the chain stay clamps around the BB and sliding the crank over but it was already as center as I could get with the above numbers. I'd need five 1mm pedal spacers to offset the left pedal to match the right and that would not be a good idea.

Does everyone crank sit offset on their V or is it only me? I'm thinking I could add some shims to the BB or crank to push it over but I doubt I can get anywhere near 0.200".

Right side

Left Side

 

[JOSEPHWEISSERT]

Good catch. I measured mine with a digital caliper just now. The right side (chain side) is 5 mm greater than the left side. That's 0.2 inches, which is the same as your measurement. That seems like enough to be concerned about. I'll try to adjust mine later to try to center it. It would only have to shift left 2.5 mm. Sounds doable.

 

[super slim]

If you other bikes have the same offset, OR you only wear one bike shoe with the Vendetta, you could move the cleat on your right shoe outwards 0.2"

 

[MrSteve]

...or just snap your femur and reset your leg to the optimum angle for your bike?

Seriously, while you're busy measuring things, please measure your legs ... those things that make your bike move.
One leg will be a bit longer.
If the difference in length is large enough, you'll feel it
and if that's the case, you may want to shim up the cleat on your short side to compensate.

 

[RojoRacing]

that is a valid point but I have no such issues with any other bike I ride. I've been measured for racing suits many times in the past and they've never noted any significant difference in leg length. Now that's not to say there isn't a different and they just chose to not note it or maybe even avg the two numbers. What's the proven and easy method to measuring leg length down the a single MM? Only reason I'm starting with the bike is it's the most obvious variable in the equation that is causing the problem so I why not start there.

Last night while pedaling I shifted my but a little off to the right side of the seat and found I could make my right foot feel the same as my left was when sitting normally. That's good because normally my left foot feel perfect in comparison to my right. Now with that said, by the time I move my butt far enough to make my right foot feel good, my left ankle feels likes it's starting to bind like my right was. So even if my crank was centered maybe my cranks Q-factor is on the wide side and I would still need to shim both shoes to make my knees perfectly happy. Seems a little suspect I'd need shims to tip my feet and knees in because I was under the impression 99% of riders get there shoes shimmed to the outside to pull their knees away from the top tube.

 

[LarryOz]

I just measured my left and right cranks to the boom, and I am only off by less than 0.03"
But - I do have my BB offset 0.1" to the crank side. Which means, if I centered the BB in the clamps I would also be off 0.2" - but it would be my left side that would have the larger distance from the center of the boom.
And this just happens to opposite of you Jason - which is very odd.

That being said - I had to slide my BB to the right that 0.1" to stop the chain-ring from tapping the weld on the frame. It is visually off.
The left side of the BB is absolutely flush with the clamps, and the right side sticks out that extra 0.1"
So, Jason - just try and slide your BB to the left that 0.1" and see if that corrects your issue. You only problem would be if your chainring starts having interference with the frame.
Worth a try...

Also Jason - You probably know this already: but the Garmin Vector pedals collect a mountain of data about angle of the feet on the pedals ,ext, etc.
It would be also worthwhile to comb through that data and see if anything looks amuch.
Good Luck

 

[1happyreader]

I have no such issues with any other bike I ride

Glad to hear you are now Tweaking your Vendetta.

Don't ever think those settings are set in stone, after all you ride hard and pieces can creep.

?? anybody use a mounting/friction paste like a carbon seatpost on their boom/slider ??

Here's to that perfect fit of bike and body.

 

[RojoRacing]

Larry I know about the pedal data and the PCO from the DF to the V are similar with my Left foot being slightly more positively offset then my right but gap is small.

I also can't slide the BB over any more then it already is. Currently the frame clamp on the left side of the bike is perfectly flush with the BB but on the right side the BB sticks out 3-4mm. I ran into the crank spider hitting the frame weld months ago and have since run it as close as possible without rubbing but that is still .200" offset. Maybe the with a non compact crankset with larger spider or a higher end crank with a more efficient build using less carbon mass on the spider arms in that area would allow me to side it over that need .100" to be centered. Just another reason for me to upgrade the components on the V to Sram Red or E-tap but I'm still waiting to some things to align to get a deal.

 

[ratz]

Just another reason for me to upgrade the components on the V to Sram Red or E-tap but I'm still waiting to some things to align to get a deal.

There's also the option to try a Sram Rival 1 or Force 1 with a 10x36 or 10x40 on the rear and not fron derailleur period. I was looking into that and even at amazon prices the Rival 1 setup is about $410. If e-tap doesn't ship by the end of the month I'm going to explore that. That assume using a 2x front crank with the small ring removed until proving it's practical.

 

[RojoRacing]

call me spoiled but I only own top of the line toys because the engineer and kid in me likes the latest and greatest cutting edge. I won't buy anything at all unless I can get exactly what I want and that's just how I've always been. With that said I'm still not totally stoked on the rival grade components, they work but not at the same level of crispness as Red on my DF bike. The X01 11-speed stuff on my Mtb has been some of the best stuff I've ever used and I'm still on the original cable after a full year with some of the muddiest snow ridden races you've seen. I feel the jump between gears on the stock V setup is too great at times and I feel the 1by setup would be even worse for my NorCal location.

I did think long and hard about dropping the small front ring on the V for last years 24hr but was too lazy to do so. Removing my small ring wont solve this current issue I'm having though. If and when I upgrade the V to Red or E-tap I'll be thinking ahead the option for dropping to a single ring up front just for the flat TT races. I'll probably go with some kind of spiderless direct mount oval chainring in that case like an Absolute Black or similar.

 

[RAR]

Rojo, maybe you should try thishttp://www.bikerumor.com/2016/03/05/tpe16-relics-48t-shimano-11-cassette-adapter-da-bombs-tapered-headset-that-fits-them-all-more/#more-123340

 

[LarryOz]

I took off my FD a whilw time ago and only ride on the large chain ring of 52t.
I did that for my Century record last Oct just to be more aero and just never put it back on.
Even here in the mountains, I seem to be able to ride most everything up to short 8% grades on my 11x32, but I do notice though that I drop my chain sometimes, since the FD is not there to "help out".

 

[RojoRacing]

I took off my FD a whilw time ago and only ride on the large chain ring of 52t.
I did that for my Century record last Oct just to be more aero and just never put it back on.
Even here in the mountains, I seem to be able to ride most everything up to short 8% grades on my 11x32, but I do notice though that I drop my chain sometimes, since the FD is not there to "help out".

You could use a narrow wide ring like we do on the mtbs. I wish my short kickers were 8%, my long sustained climbs avg 8-9% so the kickers are even worse. Like I said, a 1by setup would work for most recumbent riders because I get the impression most recumbent riders aren't riding routes with 10-20% grades.

these are only 2 examples on the double century route I plan to race next month.
https://www.strava.com/segments/302113
https://www.strava.com/segments/789267

I don't really like the over sized replacement cogs because any times I come across someone who has one they admit it in some way compromises the shift quality in some way. I use use Red and X01 because they work perfectly and I'm not about to give that up.

 

[RojoRacing]

I just rode an hour on the trainer and I shimmed my cleat a deg or two with some strips of paper. I could feel the difference in the tilt but the problem is it still feels like it's tilted after 1 hour of pedaling. I believe the idea is for an adjustment like that to make your foot just feel naturally planted. I think the change can me felt in my knee but I'm not sure if it's in a good way or bad way because it's so slight. Because I added shims to the right side of my right shoes to tilt it in, I can now feel a hot spot on the ball of my foot behind my pinky toe. This is really an odd problem

 

[RojoRacing]

I took off my FD a whilw time ago and only ride on the large chain ring of 52t.
I did that for my Century record last Oct just to be more aero and just never put it back on.
Even here in the mountains, I seem to be able to ride most everything up to short 8% grades on my 11x32, but I do notice though that I drop my chain sometimes, since the FD is not there to "help out".

this

 

[Robert Holler]

The offset of the crank to the tube would be the same if the same cranks were on an upright bike. It is the same on the Q series as well (also the same on an upright)

 

[RojoRacing]

The offset of the crank to the tube would be the same if the same cranks were on an upright bike. It is the same on the Q series as well (also the same on an upright)

That's actually not true. My Ridley crank is perfectly centered in the frame.

The BB in the V is nearly if nor perfectly centered in the frame. The problem is the chainstay clamps can't center themselves on the BB due to the welds hitting the crank spider.

 

[ratz]

The BB in the V is nearly if nor perfectly centered in the frame. The problem is the chainstay clamps can't center themselves on the BB due to the welds hitting the crank spider.

Jason, I'm curious what's the BCD combo on that crank? Not heard of a 74mm rubbing before. If it's a 74mm a photo showing the bolt pattern might be instructive. To date only a Shimano 5 bolt triple has been reported as needing grinding down to fit.

130/74
110/74
104/64
94/58

 

[Robert Holler]

The welds on the chainstay bb clamps will indeed hit some spiders - depending on the thickness of that area of the crank.

 

[RojoRacing]

Jason, I'm curious what's the BCD combo on that crank? Not heard of a 74mm rubbing before. If it's a 74mm a photo showing the bolt pattern might be instructive. To date only a Shimano 5 bolt triple has been reported as needing grinding down to fit.

130/74
110/74
104/64
94/58

Ok this FSA crank is a double so the BCD is 110. Here are a few pics of the clearance issue, look closely and you can see where it rubbed the frame paint in the past. Last two pics show how the BB on the left sits flush with the frame clamp but on the right you can see several mm of gold BB sticking out.