Front wheel change is tough!

[MikeSinKS]

Last weekend I rode my first Q45 overnight bikepacking trip, covering 115 miles on an out and back along the Prairie Spirit Trail in eastern Kansas. The bike was great and it was a terrific ride. However, I did get to remove the front wheel twice, once after transport and once to repair a flat. This was the first time I have had the front wheel off since assembly. Now I have fixed a lot of flats in my life but never have I sweated so hard and spent so much time trying to reinstall a wheel! Between having the chainstays in my spokes...getting the chain around the freewheel incorrectly or not at all, reinstalling the derailleur, etc., and all while holding the bike upright with my other hand...let’s just say it was humbling.

I’m glad it happened because I did learn some things...mostly what doesn’t work. Plus I had time to deal with it which I may not have if I had flatted when out on a shorter evening ride.

Looking for some wisdom here if anyone has tips to share to make this easier.

Thanks.

 

[paco1961]

Been there!

Look for the zip tie threads on the forum. Don’t think anyone’s come up w a better approach and it does help.

 

[Mathew Fy]

Ha ha. You reminded me of my first experience with this. I can tell you it gets easier with practice, and Zip-tie the left side fork & chainstay together. Like in this thread, except I wouldn’t glue the derailleur hanger on like Ratz did. I carry the spare in case of damage.

 

[super slim]

I ALWAYS tip the Cruzbike upside down, as per the original Silvio V1.0 instructions!
It means you can see what is happening with the QR axle and the 9 mm fork opening!

 

[paco1961]

Can’t flop the S40. Too front heavy so it falls onto the front wheel

 

[jond]

I ALWAYS tip the Cruzbike upside down, as per the original Silvio V1.0 instructions!
It means you can see what is happening with the QR axle and the 9 mm fork opening!

Yes I always tip the vendetta upside down. Up a slope if possible.

I don’t wax roadie chains. I should. But I carry rubber disposable gloves.

Plus one on the zip ties.

 

[bladderhead]

Wax is good. I do not know whether it is faster, but it is so nice to be free from the black gunge.

 

[benphyr]

From my experience with bikes in general and with putting my QX100 in and out of the van many times with and without front or rear wheels...Here are some of my tips for the beginner:

Previously mentioned zip tie sounds like the most important for keeping things together for those with front booms that come apart at the axle where the chain stay meets the fork.

1. Putting derailleur in smallest gear helps: more space to fit the gearing in, less chain tension, and knowing exactly where you want the chain to end up all are beneficial.

2. Find the balance point on the boom that allows you to both control the front wheel and hold the bike upright - it builds stronger wrists. If this doesn't work for a quick installation then try further options.

3. I don't have an S40: find something on the ground - branch, bump, curb with your jacket over it to prevent scratches, or whatever is handy to prop the left side chain stay on so the bike is laying on the left side of the seat, left handlebar, and left chain stay and left pedal - preferably wedged fairly stable so that: you can see to get the wheel in without getting dirt in the disc brake, chain, gears, and your two hands can be free to slide the drive wheel in horizontally. Once it is in place you can tighten the quick release enough to hold the wheel in place, put it upright, loosen - press down to seat the axle and tighten properly.

4. A "U" shaped piece of spoke, bungie, wire wrapped around or zip tie to hold the derailleur up near the chain stay to take the pressure off the chain also helps (does tend to get the derailleur in the way.

5. taking the chain off the chain rings frees up chain tension

6. taking the chain apart and off if applicable would make it even easier (only really feasible if you wax your chain and use an removable quick link - I have this on mine and it is great but not everyone does and you are unlikely to stop to clean and wax your chain on the side of the road in order to make changing a flat easier! )

4,5,6 are different implementations of the same concept - getting chain tension out of the equation.

 

[jond]

Wax is good. I do not know whether it is faster, but it is so nice to be free from the black gunge.

Yes I must do it. My mtn and fat bikes are home crockpot paraffin waxed.

Been lazy with the roadies. But yes I’m sick of black grunge too and a clean gold chain looks so very pretty.

Heck then there are the two trikes .......... lol. One day soon. Vendetta first.

 

[MikeSinKS]

Thank you all for the knowledge sharing and advice.

 

[tiltmaniac]

Also, use my flop-arresting rubber band technique. Works even when the bike is upside down

 

[LMT]

You don't upend bikes - ever.

What I do is to spend a minute undoing the bolts for the disk brake caliper and using a chain splitter tool, split the chain.

Removing the wheel and putting it back on is so much easier doing these two things and it only takes a minute to reattach the chain, put the caliper back, re-centre the brakes and away you go.

 

[super slim]

You don't upend bikes - ever.

What I do is to spend a minute undoing the bolts for the disk brake caliper and using a chain splitter tool, split the chain.

Removing the wheel and putting it back on is so much easier doing these two things and it only takes a minute to reattach the chain, put the caliper back, re-centre the brakes and away you go.

That a LOT of work compared to tipping the bike upside down!

 

[Gary123]

Tannus tires sounding better all the time.

 

[bladderhead]

You don't upend bikes

I may be daft, but why not? And why bother splitting the chain? I replaced the front tube of my Silvio in the street. I laid the bike down sideways. You cannot stand it upright anyway because of the gears.

 

[Wes]

Also, use my flop-arresting rubber band technique. Works even when the bike is upside down

The rubber band doesn't work on the Q45. Not enough of the boom projects past the head tube extension to provide any fulcrum.

 

[Kenneth Jessett]

The front wheel removing business is one reason why I don't ever take my V out on the road in case I get a puncture. I make sure wherever I am, the walk back is not too far and then I'll take care of the puncture when I'm back home.

 

[paco1961]

Sounds like a terrible waste of a great road bike. Try tire liners. Just changed out an old pair of Conti 4000s w about 3800 miles on them. Not a single flat front or rear w the liners

 

[onmyback]

From my experience with bikes in general and with putting my QX100 in and out of the van many times with and without front or rear wheels...Here are some of my tips for the beginner:

Previously mentioned zip tie sounds like the most important for keeping things together for those with front booms that come apart at the axle where the chain stay meets the fork.

1. Putting derailleur in smallest gear helps: more space to fit the gearing in, less chain tension, and knowing exactly where you want the chain to end up all are beneficial.

2. Find the balance point on the boom that allows you to both control the front wheel and hold the bike upright - it builds stronger wrists. If this doesn't work for a quick installation then try further options.

3. I don't have an S40: find something on the ground - branch, bump, curb with your jacket over it to prevent scratches, or whatever is handy to prop the left side chain stay on so the bike is laying on the left side of the seat, left handlebar, and left chain stay and left pedal - preferably wedged fairly stable so that: you can see to get the wheel in without getting dirt in the disc brake, chain, gears, and your two hands can be free to slide the drive wheel in horizontally. Once it is in place you can tighten the quick release enough to hold the wheel in place, put it upright, loosen - press down to seat the axle and tighten properly.

4. A "U" shaped piece of spoke, bungie, wire wrapped around or zip tie to hold the derailleur up near the chain stay to take the pressure off the chain also helps (does tend to get the derailleur in the way.

5. taking the chain off the chain rings frees up chain tension

6. taking the chain apart and off if applicable would make it even easier (only really feasible if you wax your chain and use an removable quick link - I have this on mine and it is great but not everyone does and you are unlikely to stop to clean and wax your chain on the side of the road in order to make changing a flat easier! )

4,5,6 are different implementations of the same concept - getting chain tension out of the equation.

My Q45 SRAM derauler has a handy button to lock out the chain tensioner.

 

[super slim]

The rubber band doesn't work on the Q45. Not enough of the boom projects past the head tube extension to provide any fulcrum.

But if you use a SteerStopper with the front locked, it is MUCH easier to turn the bike upside down, and rest it on the handle bar end and the top of the seat.