Getting Off the Fence

[JOSEPHWEISSERT]

Keep getting an error, lets see if this works...


Wheels.


Since I am a recreational rider, I do not see the need for custom wheels. Now that NuVinci etc. are out of my system, I can go back to my original plan, Mavic Ksyrium Elite as first choice, and Cruzebike as fall back position (in case of major cost over runs...)


So, it is settled. Order the Mavic wheel set.


Then along comes Liberty Wheel Systems with Hubdock. I have got to get one of these! So, back to custom wheels. Grrr!



To Aero or not to Aero, that is the question...


After doing quite a lot of reading, my conclusion is that for me, the benefits of the aero rims are not worth the additional weight. Of course, I could be horribly wrong.


Carbon or Alloy


Carbon rims make me nervous. The thought of catastrophic failure bombing down a hill is scary. But lots of people are using them. And from Light-bicycle.com, I can get a stock carbon wheel set that is about 400 g less than the Mavic, and costs less. Of course, a custom build with the Hubdock will increase the cost. Not sure what to do.


Spokes


I think that aero spokes are a no-brainer, as long as they are compatible with Hubdock.


So, I need to re-think the wheels - again.

I rode Mavic Ksyrium wheels for about ten years. Last fall, I had to replace the bearings finally. The only time I needed a truing was when my derailleur went into the spokes, damaging some of them. Or when I went head-on into a concrete curb. They're not heavy, and are almost bulletproof. But they aren't very aerodynamic. I was very rough on them over the years. I popped drivewheel spokes on other wheels before going to Ksyriums. You can't go wrong if you want wheels that like abuse and that you can beat on.

 

[GetBent]

Wheels - Take Three

Ok, the new plan on the wheels. If I get the Hubdock and I like it, then I have no choice, I have to get custom wheels. So, here goes; Rear - Light-bicycle 24mm clincher rim with DT Swiss 240s hub (may downgrade to 350 DT Swiss for cost - doubtful my legs will notice the difference), Sapim Cx-Ray spokes with Al nipples. Front - Light-bicycle 24mm clincher rim with Hubdock, Sapim Cx-Ray spokes with Al nipples. Since I do have color choices, I am planning on going with red hubs and nipples, to tie in with the frame.

If I do not get the Hubdock, then back to the original plan, and get the Mavic wheel set.

 

[ratz]

Light-bicycle 24mm clincher rim with DT Swiss 240s hub (may downgrade to 350 DT Swiss for cost - doubtful my legs will notice the difference)

Only difference between the 350 and 240 is the weight; same guts in both. Very good hubs. PITA to change the bearings but that's the price you pay for having the supper strong shouldered axle which is one of the keys to that hubs stiff lateral feel.

For the Cruzbike rear wheel a j-bend radial version will be stronger and cheaper to have trued up over time than the "fancy" straight pull stuff. And it's a lot easier to put covers on the radial j-hook one than a straight pull.

This one


Not this one

 

[GetBent]

Thanks for the input.

I would have thought the j-bend would be less durable due to fatigue issues at the bend.

 

[ratz]

Thanks for the input.

I would have thought the j-bend would be less durable due to fatigue issues at the bend.

Marketing for the win.... (I was there too before doing the research and talking to some builders)

With a good quality spoke they are really equal
The J-Bend is easier to fix and you can also use a "temp" spoke if doing long distance riding.

 

[GetBent]

A package arrived.



Yup, that is the Hubdock. Looks like I will be the mine canary on this one.

That means, of course, that in spite of my firm belief that a recreational rider like me has no need for custom wheels, I will be getting custom carbon wheels. Sheesh - how things change. This is a not so svelte 415 g, but I am willing to spend a little extra weight here to make my life easier when the front tire goes flat.

 

[GetBent]

Well, what can I say - real life got in the way. I had expected to be done by now, but have a grand total of one part.
I am re-thinking the carbon rims. I hit the brakes at 45 mph (downhill) on my "Craigs List Special", and I expect the V to be faster. I am worried about overheating the rims during braking and causing failure at speed. Valid concern?

650 rims look interesting, as they should allow me to run fatter tires (for inclement weather - lots of rain in PNW). Can not use disc brakes with Hubdock, so it looks like long reach caliper brakes will work. The problem seems to be limited availability of 650 rims. Bad idea?

 

[Mathew Fy]

I am worried about overheating the rims during braking and causing failure at speed.

That's a valid concern for big hills. Some good discussions:
Jason discusses his conversion to disc brakes:
http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-cruzbike-today.10945/page-4
http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/anybody-using-a-disc-brake-on-the-front-wheel-of-new-v20.8335/
I'm riding on SRAM Rail (650 rims) with 32 mm tires for comfort & grip on the rough roads I often travel. The hydraulic disc brakes work flawlessly.

 

[GetBent]

Another (not so?) bright idea. Now I am looking at carbon rims with alloy braking surfaces. Not much to choose from, but at least that helps with my fear of overheating carbon rims during fast descents. (Pretty much the only time I am fast.) So far, available from Farsports and Carbon Speed Cycle. So far, nothing in the way of data indicating that they are more resistant to heat damage.

 

[GetBent]

Any thoughts on SAT rims? (Rims that do not have holes on the outer surface of the rim - the surface next to the tube.) That type of construction makes a lot of sense to me, but there is never any free lunch - so what am I missing?

 

[ratz]

Another (not so?) bright idea. Now I am looking at carbon rims with alloy braking surfaces. Not much to choose from, but at least that helps with my fear of overheating carbon rims during fast descents. (Pretty much the only time I am fast.) So far, available from Farsports and Carbon Speed Cycle. So far, nothing in the way of data indicating that they are more resistant to heat damage.

FloCycling makes a carbon/alloy combo as does Bontrager.

 

[GetBent]

Decided to take a break from puzzling over the wheels, and went back to drive train components. Leading contender is FSA SL-K Light Adventure Modular BB386EVO crank set (46/30T) paired with Shimano DI2 (RD-6870-GS and FD 6870-F). Have not yet decided on the rear cassette, but it will most likely be 12/32. The thought process here is that my road bike is a Specialized Tarmac Pro weighing in a little under 19 pounds, running 33/48 front and 12/27 rear. Even with that set up, I struggle on the steeper hills. Since the V will be heaver, I think I will need more help going up.

I had no idea that building a bicycle would be so educational. The more I read, the more I realize I do not know. Just finished reading an entire book on wheel building....

 

[ratz]

Couple things

(46/30T) paired with Shimano DI2 (RD-6870-GS and FD 6870-F).

46/30T - is 16teeth; the Di2 stuff maxes out at a 14-15 tooth different to run well. So you'll need 44/30 or 46/32T. 16 will give you chain rub on the top or the bottom of the cage.

BB386EVO

That won't work just yet; it's a 30mm spindle.... performance upgrade support is coming soon. when it does then you'd need. something like this for a BB. http://enduroforkseals.com/id343.html

You seem to be on the right track thought wise; wheels be hard if you make them props; otherwise buy them and feel the time saved.

 

[GetBent]

Thanks, just watched your Horseshoe lake race video - now I understand your equipment choice.

 

[ccf]

For the Cruzbike rear wheel a j-bend radial version will be stronger and cheaper to have trued up over time than the "fancy" straight pull stuff.

What about if the rear wheel has a disc brake?

 

[GetBent]

Wow, it has been a long time, but I am back.

Real life bites, 'nuff said.

Finally think I have most of it nailed down, until I start riding it, then I am sure things will change...

I am sure this spread sheets looks just a little familiar (Thanks to Ratz!)

 

[nobrakes]

@GetBent I thought I would comment on the curved slider that you query above. I ordered the straight slider, and then changed my mind just as my order was shipped and tried to get the curved slider included in the order. I ended up with the straight slider however, as it was too late to change the order. Luckily for me as it turns out.

Now the bike has been built, I think the curved slider probably wouldn't have worked, it would have got in the way of my legs if it was curving down the way. I think if you have shorter legs it would work well, perhaps less so as you get taller. FWIW I am XSeam 45" and the straight slider fits me well. Visibility over the top is not a problem, I am 6'2". Hope that helps.

Cheers

 

[ratz]

Good crank choice, carbon, straight and short.

To run them in a BSA68 Shell, I’m pretty sure you’ll need the BSA68mm thread adapters.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/fsa-megaevo-bottom-bracket-evo8681-di2-/rp-prod129798
This normal when you want to use press-fit crankset on a threaded frame.

You can also get higher end BB's from http://www.enduroforkseals.com
Just email chris@realworldcycling.com and tell him you want to run BB386EVO in a BSA68 shell and he'll be able to tell you if he has any high end stuff you might want to consider.

Also you might need that adapter the front derailleur to reach a 48/33 with smooth action I got 34 to work on di2 but it was a PITA to tune; perfect when you get it but fussy to get there.
https://wickwerks.com/products/fit-link-adapter/

If that adapter didn’t work I have two hand made ones here that allow the staulk to be shortened. I never used them but they will work just fine and are designed for di2 by @scabinetguy

 

[ratz]

Also you might need that adapter the front derailleur to reach a 48/33 with smooth action I got 34 to work on di2 but it was a PITA to tune; perfect when you get it but fussy to get there.
https://wickwerks.com/products/fit-link-adapter/

Tested by Robert lowers the FD too far....

This look promising.

https://www.dolan-bikes.com/sugino-adjustable-fd-mount-for-ox-mt-ox.html

 

[GetBent]

Thank you!!!!!

You folks are amazing. I would be completely toast without your help.

Just ordered the V20 frame. Woo Hoo!

While ordering the wire tool for the Di2, discovered something - SC-MT800 display. I guess I never saw it before, since it appears to be part of the mountain bike group, not the road group. Yup, ordered that, too.