Getting Off the Fence
- Thread starter GetBent
- Start date
Now that's what I call "Getting Off The Fence"!
I also have the DI2 MT800 display (with road FD and RD). Works great but you do have to be careful how you mix-n-match DI2 road and mtn parts.
Wow! No kidding. I had not planned to get a Di2 MT800, it was basically an impulse purchase as I was ordering the Di2 system. It seemed to be a much better method of checking battery status, and I really liked the ability to display what gear I am in. Of course, getting it about half off probably helped sway my decision.
What I did not know is that it is not just a display. In addition to being a display, it replaces the Junction (A) box. The system will not work with both the Junction (A) and the display connected. That explains a rather cryptic part of the directions to "only have one device connected". Huh?? Well, now I know. It is one or the other, not both.
Another hour spent downloading software and upgrading firmware. Who knew that a prerequisite for riding a bicycle is a Comp Sci degree...
Now I have a working system on the bench, with synchro-shift enabled. With the change from the Junction (A) to the MT800, now I need different wire lengths. So much for all that planning. I will have to wait until I get the frame assembled to measure for the proper lengths. No real rush, we have lots of 'liquid sunshine' this time of year.
I am thinking I should also download the smart phone app also. Who knows when I might need to trouble shoot the system while out on a long ride.
But first you have to make sure the DI2 works:
(image copied from DC Rainmaker's super cool site)"
Rod Butler
Well-Known Member
I went for my first ride today with a Rolhoff up front. It came with a 16t and the Shimano Zee crankset came with a 36t. So they'll do for now.
First time on a Bent as well. So for me it was impossible to tell the difference between initial learning curve and the gear but I'm committed now and I imagine I'll be mostly packed up for touring, so not too aero and not breaking any speed records. A few brevits will sort me out I'm sure.
The possible belt drive next year will complete my aversion to messy mid-tour maintenance. I'll wear the disadvantages.....horses for courses!
700c Velocity Ailerons rims with 36 Sapin double butted spokes. (I think I got all that spelling right)
On the back I put the same rims and spokes with a Hope Pro4 Hub, to which I added 10mm solid axle.
I complemented that set up with 160mm TPG Spire brakes, trail grips and time trial brake levers.
...which looks odd but feels very comfortable. I'll post a pick next week.
First time on a Bent as well. So for me it was impossible to tell the difference between initial learning curve and the gear but I'm committed now and I imagine I'll be mostly packed up for touring, so not too aero and not breaking any speed records. A few brevits will sort me out I'm sure.
The possible belt drive next year will complete my aversion to messy mid-tour maintenance. I'll wear the disadvantages.....horses for courses!
700c Velocity Ailerons rims with 36 Sapin double butted spokes. (I think I got all that spelling right)
On the back I put the same rims and spokes with a Hope Pro4 Hub, to which I added 10mm solid axle.
I complemented that set up with 160mm TPG Spire brakes, trail grips and time trial brake levers.
...which looks odd but feels very comfortable. I'll post a pick next week.
super slim
Zen MBB Master
What is the front end flop like when pushing the bike around, and do you even notice the heavier front end when riding, if you have ridden a Cruzbike with a derailleur system?
But first you have to make sure the DI2 works:
(image copied from DC Rainmaker's super cool site)"
Ahhh! But can you do it one handed like Di2 in synchro mode?
Cool! Keep us posted. I was considering Rolhoff and NuVinci, but decided on Di2. Very interested on hearing reports. How difficult is it to remove/replace the front wheel?
Rod Butler
Well-Known Member
I have nothing and no experience to compare it to, I can barely stay mobile at the moment! Only two hours clocked up.
Front end flop as you say, and I think I know what you mean, is significant but easily mitigated.
One day I would like to have a go on a derailleur system cruzbike and I can only imagine that I will notice a difference..
This is my first recumbent build/ride of any sort. The front end is heavy and I certainly must concentrate.
Interesting times
Rod Butler
Well-Known Member
I don't have a spring loaded chain tensioner on the derailleur hanger ( I leave that up to the EBB) because
I wont be able to have it on a belt (if that happens) so I don't want to get used to it. So yes, the wheel removal is an issue.
To that end, I am going to turn the EBB around 180 degrees so the adjustment screws are more accessible... I think (?)
Notwithstanding that, fixing a flat with the wheel on the bike is not such a dilemma, just a slightly different process to get your head around.
Not to mention the value of practice! ...and there are always gaadi tubes. https://gaadi.de/?page_id=3671&lang=en
I work away from my home in London so when I get back next week I'll post some snaps which will make a bit more sense.
Opened the large box form Cruzbike. Found lots of pretty parts. Everything was well padded and wrapped. No dents, dings or scratches.
The frame is assembled, hand tight, with the FD, RD, display and shifters mounted. Getting the display changed much of how I had planned to run the wires, so I am doing a test fit of the wires that I can still use, and measuring for the ones I will now need. The plan is to run as much as possible internally, using other people's build logs as a starting point. My solution will not be as neat or aesthetic as others, but will make it easier for me to remove the chain stay assembly, if needed, at a later date.
This
frame is so pretty, I think maybe I should hang it above the fireplace in the living room. It would be the best looking (and most expensive) artwork in the house.
The frame is assembled, hand tight, with the FD, RD, display and shifters mounted. Getting the display changed much of how I had planned to run the wires, so I am doing a test fit of the wires that I can still use, and measuring for the ones I will now need. The plan is to run as much as possible internally, using other people's build logs as a starting point. My solution will not be as neat or aesthetic as others, but will make it easier for me to remove the chain stay assembly, if needed, at a later date.
This
frame is so pretty, I think maybe I should hang it above the fireplace in the living room. It would be the best looking (and most expensive) artwork in the house.
Rod Butler
Well-Known Member
I managed to lay back on the bike and relax a bit today.... just as a gusting crosswind came through,,, whoa!
...have got my turning circle down to about 10m but my practice dirt track with it's exposed, diagonal tree roots, wants to send me in odd directions.
The 500m smooth, asphalt downhill on the way home is a dream. Always end a practice with a success, I say.
A bit of cable trim is needed and some more slight boom adjustments.
I have an SPD/flat shoe pedal combination and I've put a flat shoe attachment on the SPD side as well, to make life a bit easier during these early stages.
Rode past the corner boys on the way home and just picked up, "...that's not right mate"
...have got my turning circle down to about 10m but my practice dirt track with it's exposed, diagonal tree roots, wants to send me in odd directions.
The 500m smooth, asphalt downhill on the way home is a dream. Always end a practice with a success, I say.
A bit of cable trim is needed and some more slight boom adjustments.
I have an SPD/flat shoe pedal combination and I've put a flat shoe attachment on the SPD side as well, to make life a bit easier during these early stages.
Rode past the corner boys on the way home and just picked up, "...that's not right mate"
jond
Zen MBB Master
Awesome bike. “ That is right mate “
Hard lesson dumb sheep perceptions of dolts.
Most cool teenagers ride very small bmx bikes sucking there knees with saddles at gonad crunching angles. But hey they are sheep following cool even if it’s painfull.
The Lycra set can see the issues yet still ride adult cool bikes instead like the other adult sheep. Been there done that a lot .....baaaaa
We see more and ride uncool sensible better smarter faster bikes. How cool is that. Like Shawn the sheeps thinking bike. We are not fooled by dumb perception. Instead we take the ridicule of fools whilst influencing their kids and enlightened adults. One at a time.
I dream of a world making courteous commonsense lol. Enjoy your bike. I’m going out to ride right now. Loving it .
Go figure.
Hard lesson dumb sheep perceptions of dolts.
Most cool teenagers ride very small bmx bikes sucking there knees with saddles at gonad crunching angles. But hey they are sheep following cool even if it’s painfull.
The Lycra set can see the issues yet still ride adult cool bikes instead like the other adult sheep. Been there done that a lot .....baaaaa
We see more and ride uncool sensible better smarter faster bikes. How cool is that. Like Shawn the sheeps thinking bike. We are not fooled by dumb perception. Instead we take the ridicule of fools whilst influencing their kids and enlightened adults. One at a time.
I dream of a world making courteous commonsense lol. Enjoy your bike. I’m going out to ride right now. Loving it .
Go figure.
I just could not bring myself to drill a big hole in the chain stay end near the forks. So I came up with a new plan, cutting and splicing a cable (yes, that is supposed to be a n0 - n0) so that I can use a smaller hole. I did not have any problems putting a larger hole at the crank end of the chain stay. First, I enlarged the existing hole slightly, than cut the end off of a cable. Then put a short length of heat shrink tubing on the cut end to do a test fit. Next, stripped the cable insulation back far enough to remove the test heat shrink. The heat shrink is in lieu of a grommet. Then slipped a piece of heat shrink all the way to the end of the cable (the end with the connector for the RD). Then fished the cable through from the small hole near the fork end of the chain stay. That was easy, took less than a minute, no tool needed. Next, made the splice. Then stuffed the extra cable (including the splice) into the chain stay (from the crank end). The cable would not accordion fold. So I made a loop, then stuffed the head of the loop into the hole. This made two loops, one in the chain stay, and one sticking out. Now the cable back fed easily into the chain stay. When the splice was near the hole, the exterior loop was pushed in, then the splice, then continued back feeding until the proper length remained. The next task was to mount the RD, and pull out enough cable through the small hole to be able to make the connection. Then I marked the location where the cable came out of the hole, pulled more cable out, centered the pre-positioned heat shrink over the mark, and hit it with the heat gun. Next, placed a little liquid soap around the hole, and stuffed the heat shrink wrapped cable into the hole. That was tough. Finishing up consisted of putting a grommet on the cable exiting the crank end of the chain stay and a system test. Done!
Was it worth all the effort? Probably not - it just makes me feel better not having a "monster" hole in the chain stay.
Was it worth all the effort? Probably not - it just makes me feel better not having a "monster" hole in the chain stay.
