Homebuilt Rev26/2

Bill Wightman

Well-Known Member
So the next question is... are you open for business?
That's exactly my thought. For those of us who have neither the skills nor the time. What a beautiful work of art and engineering. Truly impressive. A minimalist engineering expression. How does it ride compared to first prototype?

Another good Marco Ruga video that needs viewers:
 
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markciccio

Active Member
I have to make some tests. At the moment here is so icy and I don't have a lot of time in the weeknend. As first impressions it is very similar to the first Rev26 and infact it has the same geometry. It is not perfectly adjustable for me, it is more suitable for people from 1.70 to 1.80 m tall (I am 1.87 tall, 6ft 1.6in). So I will have to adapt the seat and the handle bars that will not be in the best position. I hope I'll make a video or two about these tests. Here there are still also pandemic restrictions so it is an other issue for going outside and have some good rides.
The bike is for a friend of mine that is also a triathlete so we will be able to make some good performance tests. At the moment my job is not this one and I think will never be. But it is very nice to experiment and build every time something different and maybe to improve a little.
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
yes a good build. this one tracks a lot closer to my drawings, and now is much more similar to frankentrike, so i am right with you on you thinking. also interesting to compare to JM work.

the handlebar position still interests me, as i would think it is harder to pull on those bars during a climb.

how are your gearing the front rind and the back cluster?
 

markciccio

Active Member
Harder than what? I can climb well with that handlebars, no big issues. And they are adjustable in lenght and position.
On steep climbs (+15%) this is the way I ride with very similar bars:

My english is so bad, what do you mean with "how are your gearing the front rind and the back cluster?"
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
ha. its not your English it is my bad typing.

what gear ratios? front chain ring? rear cassette?

to me it looks a lot harder to hold those handle bars and pull like you can on the other REV where you have drops and you can pull from the brake hoods like you do in that video. this new REV has straight down handles. maybe you could grab right at the corner to get leverage.

if you look at my handlebar set up on frankentrike, when i climb i pull directly on the bars right at the hood of the brake lever. i never felt like i could not get a good pull from the bottom of the bar when it was vertical, which is very similar to how you have that new handlebar set up with tt brake levers.
frankentrike side.jpg
 

markciccio

Active Member
The gear ratio is 56T front, 11-36 rear but it could be 11-42. It depends on the ride. 10 speed cassette. 150 mm cranks.

In my "high" Rev there are many possibilities as for the position of the hands. You can see on this video.


When there is a very steep climb I prefer to have a position like this:
Immagine.png

But actually that hands position is my favorite even on normal driving, even on the flat. A very advanced position with my arms nearly fully extended. I do not usually place my hands on the "drops" position, it seems to me I can not push at the top of my possibilities and the handling is good but not the best. I think I can push harder with my hands on the more advanced position.

On the low racer is quite the same even though that bars are designed due to a more advanced handle towards the front, even for the "drops" position. And infact that is my favorite overall hand position. This is due to a fully modified handle bars, while on the High Rev I use a standard production handle bars:

Immagine5.png


I think you should try something similar with your trike, with advanced "drops" design handle bars. Can you post a photo with you on the seat with your hands on the bars?
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
@markciccio i am not a straight arm rider. i am bent arms elbows in. i agree the bottom of the drops make it harder to steer if they aremore horizontal. my drops on my v20 are angled very steep, and that is where i keep them 90% of the time.
on frankentrike, when i am just riding, i tend to rest them on the brake housings and then when i am decending i go to the drops to get better steering control. on big climbs i grab the bars inside of the brake leavers as if i am doing a reverse hold barbell curl, so i can pull my body against the pedals, similar to when you and maria sit up.

it is very impressive you best climbing combo is 56-36, and you do it so well. on my v20 it is 34 -36 on frankentrike is it 66-36 but the wheel is much smaller.

@bladderhead, sure my v20 is 2x10, but frankentrike is only 1x.
 

markciccio

Active Member
What I feel is that with nearly straight arms I can drive better, produce more power and even aero is better. For me it is quite natural to keep that position.
On the Rev26/2 (26" front wheel) at the moment the slowest gear ratio is 56-36 but I it depends on the course. It is a new bike and I will make a lot of tests with different configurations, this is only the first one. On the HTH (28" front wheel) it is 58- 42 but for big climbs it is 50-42 or even 39-38 (I have a second chain ring that I can choose manually on the 58T chain ring) . It depends on the ride. 10 gears may be not enough for modern cyclists but for me is enought. Maybe I have strange style of pedaling.
 

Rob Lloyd

Well-Known Member
10 gears may be not enough for modern cyclists but for me is enought. Maybe I have strange style of pedaling.

Michigan is pretty flat. I don’t have any steep climbs more than a minute or 2. So I get by with 1x9 on all my bikes, so far. Someday I will probably switch to 1x10. I don’t think it’s strange at all.
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
@Rob Lloyd how far from me are you?

@markciccio i think the consensus is that straight arm position is better for aero and other things. i just don't like it. elbows in is pretty aero. but, it think my greatest disadvantage may come on downhills as straight arm tends to be more solid, and thus better control.
 
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