If I can build up an S30, so can you
- Thread starter castlerobber
- Start date
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Well, I told y'all this was going to be amateur hour...I wasn't kidding. 
I got the brakes working pretty well. But after much video-watching, instruction-reading, and repeated attempts to adjust the derailleurs, I still couldn't get the shifting tuned on either one.
In the process, I managed to cross-thread the outer limit screw on the FD. Guess I didn't know my own strength (ha). I stopped as soon as I realized something was wrong and took the FD to the LBS, where three experienced bike mechanics used their needle-nose pliers and specialized bolt extractors to completely mangle the screw head and gouge the outside of the FD.
Ordered a new FD, and asked them to let me watch, ask questions, and "help" them adjust both derailleurs. Spent an hour last Saturday morning doing just that, with their SRAM-expert mechanic. Got the bike home, took it out for a test ride...and the FD that had shifted flawlessly at the LBS, now wouldn't shift. The cable anchor bolt wasn't tight enough, allowing the cable to slip. Guess who had tightened it? Yep, me.
The end cap had come off the cable, which I'd reused from the S1.5. It was now so frizzy that I had no choice but to replace the cable. Pulled it tight, anchored it--no go. Nothing I could do would make the chain climb on to the big ring instead of scrabbling helplessly on the side. Even redid the whole FD setup, very carefully. I resigned myself to another LBS visit, released the cable, and left it. Decided yesterday to re-anchor the cable to get it out of the way so I could at least ride in the small ring. Tightened the cable up (yet again) like @ReklinedRider said he does it, and tried shifting (knowing it wouldn't work). It shifted perfectly, both on the stand and on a short test ride.
The Perez clamp (very nice!) is installed, along with the new headrest. I had to take off the cushion and rotate it 180 degrees to get it low enough to clear my helmet.
The 150mm Apex cranks feel good. The Q-rings need fine-tuning, which will probably be done Monday when I have help.
My other half, who likes to tinker, is making a taillight-mounting post to fit on the headrest bottle-cage bracket.
(@hoyden, how's that for wrenching details?)
I got the brakes working pretty well. But after much video-watching, instruction-reading, and repeated attempts to adjust the derailleurs, I still couldn't get the shifting tuned on either one.
In the process, I managed to cross-thread the outer limit screw on the FD. Guess I didn't know my own strength (ha). I stopped as soon as I realized something was wrong and took the FD to the LBS, where three experienced bike mechanics used their needle-nose pliers and specialized bolt extractors to completely mangle the screw head and gouge the outside of the FD.
Ordered a new FD, and asked them to let me watch, ask questions, and "help" them adjust both derailleurs. Spent an hour last Saturday morning doing just that, with their SRAM-expert mechanic. Got the bike home, took it out for a test ride...and the FD that had shifted flawlessly at the LBS, now wouldn't shift. The cable anchor bolt wasn't tight enough, allowing the cable to slip. Guess who had tightened it? Yep, me.
The end cap had come off the cable, which I'd reused from the S1.5. It was now so frizzy that I had no choice but to replace the cable. Pulled it tight, anchored it--no go. Nothing I could do would make the chain climb on to the big ring instead of scrabbling helplessly on the side. Even redid the whole FD setup, very carefully. I resigned myself to another LBS visit, released the cable, and left it. Decided yesterday to re-anchor the cable to get it out of the way so I could at least ride in the small ring. Tightened the cable up (yet again) like @ReklinedRider said he does it, and tried shifting (knowing it wouldn't work). It shifted perfectly, both on the stand and on a short test ride.
The Perez clamp (very nice!) is installed, along with the new headrest. I had to take off the cushion and rotate it 180 degrees to get it low enough to clear my helmet.
The 150mm Apex cranks feel good. The Q-rings need fine-tuning, which will probably be done Monday when I have help.
My other half, who likes to tinker, is making a taillight-mounting post to fit on the headrest bottle-cage bracket.
(@hoyden, how's that for wrenching details?
)
Mathew Fy
GRU
Cruzbike's new post http://cruzbike.com/utility-post works well and looks clean. My previous post was an ugly, but functional, sawed-off handlebar Zipp tied to the cage mount.
hoyden
Well-Known Member
Excellent, @castlerobber, it's nice to get in the thick of things and rearrange the hardware. I have to roughly handle things before I learn how to use them. Cross-threading is a great way to learn the fine art of screw insertion and removal. Those limit screws have a tight thread and I learned to be sure to have the right size Phillips driver to tweak them. That's why I like Allen and Torx screws over slotted and Phillips because they have a specific size driver that reduces the chances I will mangle the slots. I have one frizzy cable on my bike but I've learned to live with it. Progress not perfection. Good luck with your Q-rings. Even with all the fine descriptions for how to set them I was never completely confident I did it right. On the third try I set it by intuition and it yielded my smoothest cadence.(@hoyden, how's that for wrenching details?
I prefer riding over wrenching but the payoff for wrenching is that I have the tools and I've learned how to fix things out in the wild. I also sometimes know how to spot trouble before it arrives. Sounds like you'll be doing some real riding very soon!
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
This is the key tool to successfully tensioning the cables: https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Fourth-Hand-Cable-Puller/dp/B0028N57KK
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Yup for sure. Any of several brands.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Well, I told y'all this was going to be amateur hour...I wasn't kidding.
Nothing I could do would make the chain climb on to the big ring instead of scrabbling helplessly on the side.
Another pitfall on Silvio's and Vendetta's: if your bottom bracket clamps are not completely symmetrical on your bottom bracket's external bearing cups, it will play havoc with your Front D shifting. This should go without saying, but this contestant on the Amateur Hour (i.e., yours truly here) had to find out the hard way. Of course
.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Glad you said that!
Having to unlearn a couple of old habits from the Q and the S1.5:
-- Don't lift the back of the S30 by the top of the seat. The sound of ripping Velcro
quickly reinforces the new habit of using the headrest tubes.-- Don't sling my leg over the back of the seat to get on the bike (foot, meet headrest!); step through instead. The seat bottom is noticeably lower on the S30, which makes it easier.
Tried to install my old Garmin GSC10 speed and cadence sensor onto the S30...nope, not happening with those 150mm cranks. I can have either speed or cadence, not both. Decided it wasn't worth the effort to kludge together a solution, so the Garmin magnet-less sensor set is headed this way from Amazon. I have the magnet-less cadence sensor on my Q, so I know it works with my Forerunner 310XT. Anyone need a GSC10, cheap?
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Also one of the cheapest cost tools given the problem it solves....
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Already had one (Pedro's) from last year, when we were still trying to get the shifting on the S1.5 right, and found it useful. Tried to buy it locally, but the mechanics at the two or three LBS I checked with insisted the fourth-hand tool was a waste of money, and they only used them (if they even had one) to tighten zip-ties.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Pretty useful for brake cable too.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Modded the back of the sherbet-colored helmet. The red Scotchlite tape is a slight improvement over the Garish Green™ it covers, besides being reflective.
super slim
Zen MBB Master
Brilliant!!!
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
Now we're getting somewhere.
The handlebars are taped, the bottle-cage mount installed and one cage attached. After having my son take video of me riding, so I could see the crankarm position at full leg extension, I was able to orient the Q-rings better. I ended up with OCP #4 on the bolt below/forward of the crankarm, subject to adjustment.
Does this look like appropriate leg extension? I measured it roughly in the 150-155 degree range.
I rode for an hour after setting up the Q-rings. The adjustable neckrest feels like it's in about the right place, but the top of the headrest tubes kept pushing the back of the helmet up. The tubes are as far in as they'll go without touching the top of the seat back. I'm 5'5". Do I need to cut a section out of the vertical part?
The handlebars are taped, the bottle-cage mount installed and one cage attached. After having my son take video of me riding, so I could see the crankarm position at full leg extension, I was able to orient the Q-rings better. I ended up with OCP #4 on the bolt below/forward of the crankarm, subject to adjustment.
Does this look like appropriate leg extension? I measured it roughly in the 150-155 degree range.
I rode for an hour after setting up the Q-rings. The adjustable neckrest feels like it's in about the right place, but the top of the headrest tubes kept pushing the back of the helmet up. The tubes are as far in as they'll go without touching the top of the seat back. I'm 5'5". Do I need to cut a section out of the vertical part?
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Hard to tell from the photo but i wonder if you moved the adjustable headrest up 1-2 cm if that would keep the headrst bar from pushing your helmet?
I just got my adj headrest installed earlier this evening and even tho the 'roc loc' part of the helmet rests on the upper part of the pad, the headrest bar itself doesn't interfere. We're almost the same height so that might work for you too. Also i have some extra upper back and neck cushioning made from ventisit material so that keeps my head a bit more forward. Haven't ridden it yet though.
Also got the cage mount and utility post installed with lights. Pics tomorrow i hope.
And may I say GREAT JOB on that S30! Looks marvelous. Will let the truly knowledgeable analyze your leg extension etc.
You need to come ride w Germantown group soon!
super slim
Zen MBB Master
Great BRIGHT clothes to match the helmet!!!
You will certainly be seen by car drivers!
I think the BB is too far away, with an extended foot, but Maria P also rides the same way!
The Racers would have a better idea!
You could add a 4"*4"*3.5" High, sock cushion, with a 12"*1.75" tube in the back fold of the sock,(Top of the sock so access to change air pressure) and a 4"*4" cut soft and hard foam from the std headrest, and a 4"*4" cardboard backing in the front fold of the sock
hoyden
Well-Known Member
That looks about where I ride. My extended leg is not quite fully extended (locked straight), my upper thigh just barely touches the bar on the upstroke, and there's about a right angle at the knee. Your elbows at your side with more than 90 degree bend is similar.
castlerobber
Zen MBB Master
I might be able to move it up 1 cm. Much more than that will interfere with the bottom of the helmet, and push my chin down even farther toward my chest. I may temporarily put a wedge behind my upper back and shoulders along with moving the headrest up, before I go cutting anything. From @ratz' picture of the new headrest tubes, it looks like the vertical rise is at least 1" less.
Hard for me to get over that way on Saturday mornings. I'll for sure be there for some of the Tuesday-night rides, once they start back. So you'll get to see the S30 in person.
My son tried the Silvio after he took the videos. He had to Flintstone a couple of laps around the parking lot to get the feel of it, but once he got brave enough to glide and slide, he went right to pedaling. Told me "Pffft. Nothing to it"
as he passed. He thinks he'll stick with my Q for long rides, though.So she does. I even found a photo on another thread showing it. I may shorten that distance another 5mm and see how it feels.
I was wondering about that. I have thigh clearance on the upstroke, and can sit up when I'm climbing, so I figured it was close to being right.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Some extra padding for your upper back might help. You say there is a new, shorter headrest available soon?
super slim
Zen MBB Master
I think that this adjustable headrest will solve your problems!!!
Kline, how is your new headrest cover attached to the rigid back?
Any photos?
