Loaded up

[Rod Butler]

I intended to do a tour of southern Ireland but ferry issues confined me to the West coast of Wales.
Had I known about the hills (brutal) I may have just returned home.
As it was, I really put the bike and camping gear through a really good testing phase with some wild camping and long days. A tour of the Atlantic coast of France is just a few week away, so as painful as the Wales adventure was, it served a pretty good purpose.
As a mater of fact I'm looking for companions for the France trip. Ferry to Cherbourge (or Roscoff) to Mont St Michel to Paris and train back to UK. Or Visa versa.... Come along... What could possibly go wrong?

https://www.veloscenic.com/the-cycle-route/la-veloscenie-cycle-route
https://en.francevelotourisme.com/base-1/itineraires/la-velodyssee-latlantique-a-velo
Check out....
https://en.francevelotourisme.com/

 

[bladderhead]

To do this trip this year is very good timing. Worse drought for ages. You won't get rained on, even in Wales.

How does all that freight effect the handling of the bike?

 

[Rod Butler]

I've been to Wales 3 times in the last 20 years and got sunburned on each occasion, go figure(?)

Handling; Apart from the short, nasty climbs there are some glorious long descents to be fair.
I reached 60k/h on one occasion and was terrified! That's when you really need to be careful.
There was a bit of swing in the back but it handled pretty well. The longer wheel base paid dividends.
The main issue was traction on loose inclines on the back country when loaded. Anticipating gear selection
more accurately can mitigate that to some extent, slightly trickier (and heavier) with the Rolhoff.

Wheels; I suspected that some of the wobbles I experienced on the fast down hills might have had something to do
with 'wheel balancing' so when I returned I looked it up.
Check out;

I had never considered this before but applying this fix can't hurt, who knows?

Parking; The main consequence of the 'freight' was in parking the bike. I cut 1cm strips off an old inner tube
and put them over the handle bars to clamp the brake levers down which stopped the roll.
I recently purchased a Steer Stopper. Check out; https://steerstopper.com/ and that really stops the flop (see pic).
I combine both methods and even though I'd like a super light-weight stand, this method is solid.

 

[Rod Butler]

....I've since changed from 28mm tires to 35mm. A significant improvement in suspension and traction.

 

[Bentas]

I've been to Wales 3 times in the last 20 years and got sunburned on each occasion, go figure(?)

Handling; Apart from the short, nasty climbs there are some glorious long descents to be fair.
I reached 60k/h on one occasion and was terrified! That's when you really need to be careful.
There was a bit of swing in the back but it handled pretty well. The longer wheel base paid dividends.
The main issue was traction on loose inclines on the back country when loaded. Anticipating gear selection
more accurately can mitigate that to some extent, slightly trickier (and heavier) with the Rolhoff.

Wheels; I suspected that some of the wobbles I experienced on the fast down hills might have had something to do
with 'wheel balancing' so when I returned I looked it up.
Check out;

I had never considered this before but applying this fix can't hurt, who knows?

Parking; The main consequence of the 'freight' was in parking the bike. I cut 1cm strips off an old inner tube
and put them over the handle bars to clamp the brake levers down which stopped the roll.
I recently purchased a Steer Stopper. Check out; https://steerstopper.com/ and that really stops the flop (see pic).
I combine both methods and even though I'd like a super light-weight stand, this method is solid.View attachment 7013

Great feedback re touring set up and handling behaviour, do you think the sway mentioned might have something to do with the rack? My experience was similar to yours on weekend tour on my homebuilt Mbb earlier this year.
I am now attempting to go pure bike packing set up, (no rack) and strap everything to the frame ,as low as possible..
Will post pics when complete, could you show/ explain how you attached bottle cages? thanks

 

[Rod Butler]

Low as possible is a worthwhile goal and with panniers, equalizing right and left weights as well.
Be mindful that as you deplete stocks of food and water (the heavy stuff) the weight will shift.
It's called 'trim' in aviation, right/left/fwd/aft weight adjustment. Just as important on a touring bike with the addition of high/low.
...one of the reasons I like the water bottles fwd/low as possible.

My '80s touring bike had a wheel base of about 100cm, the S40 comes in at 115cm. An engineering necessity.
I used 23mm tires in those days and took it everywhere, touring was more like a loaded cyclocross event.
Not a lot has changed fundamentally except the notion of 'marginal gains' that has filtered down from
road racing. Just as developments in Formula 1 eventually make it to the car in your garage.

Ok so, it becomes self evident that a true, balanced wheel with even tension will add life to all the components
of that wheel, all marginal gains. Then in touring we add weight.... and so we return to my first paragraph.
I used to think that having equal weight over both axles contributed to better handling and then perhaps
as much weight between the axles(?). Then I get on a FWD 'bent! ... jeez Louise!

Until recently I Never even considered having different tires on the front and rear wheels,
much more common these days. I thought about it on my recent trip but decided against mainly because,
on the S40, even though I needed the traction up front, I also needed grip on the back to keep the wheel from
occasionally fishtailing during wet weather cornering and for suspension... Marginal gains.
I'll stop rambling and send some pics.......... Happy Trails

 

[tiltmaniac]

Have you seen my rubber-band anti-flop device?

It is easy and cheap (it is a big long runner band) and allows you to steer the bike while walking it!

 

[Rod Butler]

Have you seen my rubber-band anti-flop device?

It is easy and cheap (it is a big long runner band) and allows you to steer the bike while walking it!

No, send me a pic. The steer stopper was expensive but it does exactly what it says on the box. I can't complain but I'd be interested to see any variations.

 

[tiltmaniac]

No, send me a pic. The steer stopper was expensive but it does exactly what it says on the box. I can't complain but I'd be interested to see any variations.

Sure:
Thread: https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/

Link showing mounting (I use thumbscrews to hold the seat on below, which provides for a nice mounting place, even if the seat is the regular CB seat):
https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/#post-143151

Here is an example of front deflection when tilting the bike (when the bike isn't tilted, the wheel is basically straight):
https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/page-2#post-143154

 

[Rod Butler]

Very innovative, I really like it. Kinda wish I'd seen it earlier.

 

[Bentas]

Very innovative, I really like it. Kinda wish I'd seen it earlier.

Thanks for the detailed info and pics, some great inovation here, really helpful! The

 

[Mathew Fy]

Do your thighs rub on the Steer Stopper receiver? I’ve been contemplating something like this.
BTW, Jason’s created a tidy boom stabilizer.

 

[cpml123]

I made a slightly modified version of @tiltmanics antiflop device. In the previous version, my leg was getting tripped over by the rubber band whenever I tried to step over the seat. I noticed there is a screw hole close to the fork. I put a M5 screw there with about 3/4 in sticking out. I then wrapped the rubber band around the boom and anchored it to the screw. Works well so far.

 

[Rod Butler]

I still don't know what that little hole is really for, but I like your use of it.
A while back I had a similar idea to RojoRacing of 05Apr2016,
ie ...securing a spring, but on an S40, to that lower threaded hole and somehow
attaching it to a fender hole at the fork crown.
Do-able I guess, but I wanted something easily detachable back then and the idea went to the
'Pending' file. Not sure I liked the idea of having the spring (or rubber) permanently attached.

To answer Mathew (above), the arm of the S/S device springs up out of the way. It does touch your
thighs in a really tight turn, it happened to me a couple of times. But your spacial awareness takes
care of that pretty quickly. It's a solid solution for parking/maintenance mode, if you need
something to use as you're walking your bike (other than a straight line) this is Not the answer.

The stability solution I use most of the time is inner-tube sections on the brake levers.
(see yesterday's pic #4 Parking brake)
...if you're looking for the easiest, cheapest, do nearly nothing for the best results solution, start there.
The wheel doesn't flop as much, if it isn't turning...

 

[tiltmaniac]

I still don't know what that little hole is really for, but I like your use of it.
A while back I had a similar idea to RojoRacing of 05Apr2016,
ie ...securing a spring, but on an S40, to that lower threaded hole and somehow
attaching it to a fender hole at the fork crown.
Do-able I guess, but I wanted something easily detachable back then and the idea went to the
'Pending' file. Not sure I liked the idea of having the spring (or rubber) permanently attached.

To answer Mathew (above), the arm of the S/S device springs up out of the way. It does touch your
thighs in a really tight turn, it happened to me a couple of times. But your spacial awareness takes
care of that pretty quickly. It's a solid solution for parking/maintenance mode, if you need
something to use as you're walking your bike (other than a straight line) this is Not the answer.

The stability solution I use most of the time is inner-tube sections on the brake levers.
(see yesterday's pic #4 Parking brake)
...if you're looking for the easiest, cheapest, do nearly nothing for the best results solution, start there.
The wheel doesn't flop as much, if it isn't turning...

You really don't notice the rubber band while riding. It doesn't have enough force to be noticed at the steering deflections used during real riding, and since the total cost is on the order of 5 USD, it is a cheap experiment!

 

[tiltmaniac]

I made a slightly modified version of @tiltmanics antiflop device. In the previous version, my leg was getting tripped over by the rubber band whenever I tried to step over the seat. I noticed there is a screw hole close to the fork. I put a M5 screw there with about 3/4 in sticking out. I then wrapped the rubber band around the boom and anchored it to the screw. Works well so far.

View attachment 7046

Nice! The S30 series doesn't have that hole in the frame, so that is a nice bonus on the S40!
You might want to put a nut or a thumb-nut (or anything, really) on the screw to prevent the rubber band from slowly getting cut by the screw threads!

 

[cpml123]

Nice! The S30 series doesn't have that hole in the frame, so that is a nice bonus on the S40!
You might want to put a nut or a thumb-nut (or anything, really) on the screw to prevent the rubber band from slowly getting cut by the screw threads!

Great point about the thread cutting away the rubber band. Will modify again.

 

[Roger Mathis]

Hi Rod Butler, did you use two of the Zip-tie like straps from SteerStopper to secure the receiver?

 

[Rod Butler]

Hi

Hi Rod Butler, did you use two of the Zip-tie like straps from SteerStopper to secure the receiver?

Hi Roger, I tried a number of methods including the one you mention.

I find the SteerStopper works really well, it's the operator (me) that conspires against it....I can't count the number of times I've left it on when starting out and Forced it to disengage! ...thus loosening the fastening more each time, doh!!

I now only use the SteerStopper in conjunction with the inner tube section 'hand brake' which is in a photo I posted a little while back, so Now,,, I literally can't go anywhere unless several short disengagement steps are taken. Not a bad thing when you're touring as several pre-flight checks need to be made anyway.

The method of securing the device to the CZ frame I now use is the best so far. I'm away from my bike at the moment so I'll post a snap asap.......
I got myself the biggest single zip tie I could find and secured the SS receiver to the frame using it and the use of some double sided tape along it's entire length with the tie 'buckle' under the frame near that little screw hole.
Ok so far.
The hack I have made is to use two tiny grub screws (2mm x 5mm), one centered each side, to secure the tie more firmly to the receiver. If you order these grub screws make sure you get the 1mm hex allen key as well. I used a tiny hand held drill bit but a hot pin would do just as well. I does sound a bit fiddly but there's plenty of room to work and the results are fantastic.
I have just done a 6 day tour from Paris to Mont Saint Michel (281ml) with lots of stopping, starting and camping out etc and this fastening system is still as good as the first day, a pretty good test.

 

[Roger Mathis]

Cool, thanks! I had that original idea to use a large zip tie but Thomas at SS said you need to secure it (as you did.) thanks, can’t wait to see the pic! Happy travels