My T50 Emeljay Mod

rx7mark

Guru
Side view Emeljay.jpg
This weekend I finished my Emeljay mod for my T50 commuter. I did this mod not for aero performance, but I wanted a more adjustable seat to handle bar relationship, the way it was I had to buy new stems every time I wanted to try a new seat angle or handle bar position.

The over all impression is great, the steering is a little different but is more precise than the old version. Better for me is that I could lean the Thor back a little more, now at about 34 degrees, though sort of hard to measure precisely on the Thor. I used a board on the back of the center part of the Thor.

Now some details. I noticed that a 31.8mm seat post with a rack attachment was exactly the same width as the existing steering mount on the fork. They come with a little lip to keep it located at the top of the seat post that has to be filed down. This pic shows one finished and one left to file.
Seat posts.jpg
The next step was to fabricate to flat plates to connect the stock steering bracket to the two seat posts. The first picture shows the plates mounted. They needed two washers on each side to match the original thickness. I made the plates from 6061-T6 .125 thick, using a hack saw and files to finish and debur the edges. I did bolt them together during filing and drilling to make sure they are identical. In the second picture you might be able to see the chrome spacer I cut from the taller steering extender that was included with my T50 but wasn't used in the original build. I cut it down to length and then split it longitudinally with the hacksaw to make sure I could get it off in the future, if required. You might just be able to see the vertical saw cut.

Plates side mount.jpg Plates Mounted.jpg

Now here it is assembled. Notice the oval hole, that is to get access to the allen head bolt that tightens the upper seat post clamp to allow for adjustment. I used the same 2 foot long 1.25 inch OD tubing that Emeljay used. Lucky for us T50 owners no sanding is required. The mounting hardware is all stainless allen head screws, 5mm for the rack mount holes on the pair of seat post clamps.
Side view of plates.jpg
The trickiest thing was the bar stem mount to the tube. I wanted to reuse my Soma Gator bars which are already 31.8mm. So I really needed a 31.8 x 31.8 stem, which do not exist. But I had a really nice machined aluminum short stem from a previous bar location trial, that was 31.8mm on the bar side. I just needed to have the stem side machined out to 1.25 to match the slider tube OD. A buddy of mine traded some golf club building and did the deed on his post mill. Here you can see the stem in its new home. Note the Wahoo is now mounted right on the stem, I just had to get longer zip ties.

Bar picture.jpg
Sharp eyes might note in the main picture that the seat struts have been replaced with new parts also, I will post pics next of those parts.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Mark
 
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ak-tux

Zen MBB Master
Wow! Very nice! I'am curious, please kindly find out for me the final weight of your build without the bags
 

rx7mark

Guru
Seat struts..jpg
Here are some pics of the new seat struts. They are auto racing parts, swaged aluminum tubes, aluminum rod ends, and aluminum jam nuts. You need to buy two left and two right thread rod ends and nuts. That way you can adjust the exact length you need, +/- 0.50 inches. Not much adjustment right, but you can buy new swaged tubes for $10 each in 0.50 incremental lengths. So try to get it close the first time but if you need a new set its only $20 to correct the length.

The rods are 5/16 bore by 3/8 thread and the swaged rods are 3/4 OD. The strut mounts are 6mm, so I had to create bushings. I used a 5/16 stainless tubing I found on Amazon with .035 wall thickness, which works out to a perfect bushing size for the rod ends. You could probably use K&S Aluminum tubing which comes in this diameter and wall thickness also, but this was actually cheaper. You can see the tubing mounted in my workmate prior to cutting with a hacksaw and de-burring with a file. Then the bushing with the 6mm screw, and then the bushing pressed into the rod end. the next picture is the rods mounted to the home made bracket on my Thor seat. And then the lower attachment in the standard location.

Bushing with screw.jpg Rod on Bushing.jpg Rod with Bushing.jpg Upper rod mount.jpg Lower Rod Mount.jpg

I got the parts from Speedway Motors, here are the parts number, I found them on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Swedged-3-8-24-Panhard-Radius-Rod-11-in-Length/131499718588?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Rod ends are: QA1 AMR5-6 A Series Rod End, Aluminum, 3/8-24 RH, 5/16 in. Bore &
QA1 AML5-6 A Series Rod End, Aluminum, 3/8-24 LH, 5/16 in. Bore

Jam Nuts: Black Aluminum Jam Nut, 3/8-24, LH
Black Aluminum Jam Nut, 3/8-24, RH

Mark
 
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ak-tux

Zen MBB Master
Sure I will weigh my bike when I have a chance. Not sure what the total is.

Mark
Thank you in advance! I usually use my bathroom scale. I pick up the bike, step on the scale, then I repeat without the bike and get the difference.

My second question: Is there any lateral(sideways) play to the seat? I ask because I'am curious about the fact that there is no integral part of the main frame extending to the back of the seat to support it similar to the other cruzbike models.
 

Rampa

Guru
Very cool! :)

I bet you could also flip the top seat post collar around so the tension bolt would be outside the plates, but on the other side.

This seems like maybe a better direction then putting the Q45 boom on the T50. It keeps the regular dropouts.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
View attachment 6909
This weekend I finished my Emejay mod for my T50 commuter. I did this mod not for aero performance, but I wanted a more adjustable seat to handle bare relationship, the way it was I had to buy new stems every time I wanted to try a new seat angle or handle bar position.

The over all impression is great, the steering is a little different but is more precise than the old version. Better for me is that I could lean the Thor back a little more, now at about 34 degrees, though sort of hard to measure precisely on the Thor. I used a board on the back of the center part of the Thor.

Now some details. I noticed that a 31.8mm seat post with a rack attachment was exactly the same width as the existing steering mount on the fork. They come with a little lip to keep it located at the top of the seat post that has to be filled down. This pic shows one finished and one left to file.
View attachment 6908
The next step was to fabricate to flat plates to connect the stock steering bracket to the two seat posts. The first picture shows the plates mounted. They needed to washers on each side to match the original strength. I made the plates from 6061-T6 .125 thick, using a hack saw and files to finish and debur the edges. I did bolt them together during filing and drilling to make sure they are identical. In the second picture you might be able to see the chrome spacer I cut from the taller steering extender that was included with my T50 but wasn't used in the original build. I cut it down to length and the split it longitudinally with the hacksaw to make sure I could get it off in the future, if required. You might just be able to see the vertical saw cut.

View attachment 6911 View attachment 6910

Now here it is assembled. Notice the oval hole, that is to get access to the allen head bolt that tightens the upper seat post clamp to allow for adjustment. I used the same 2 foot long 1.25 inch OD tubing that Emeljay used. Lucky for us T50 owners no sanding is required. The mounting hardware is all stainless allen head screws, 5mm for the rack mount holes on the pair of seat post clamps.
View attachment 6912
The trickiest thing was the bar stem mount to the tube. I wanted to reuse my Soma Gator bars which are already 31.8mm. So I really needed a 31.8 x 31.8 stem, which don't exist. But I had a really nice machined aluminum short stem from a previous bar location trial, that was 31.8mm on the bar side. I just needed to have the stem side machined out to 1.25 to match the slider tube OD. A buddy of mine traded some golf club building and did the deed on his post mill. Here you can see the stem in its new home. Note the Wahoo is now mounted right on the stem, I just had to get longer zip ties.

View attachment 6914
Sharp eyes might note in the main picture that the seat struts have been replaced with new parts also, I will psot pics next of those parts.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Mark
An excellent Emeljay modification, especially the 32 to 32 stem!
 

cpml123

Zen MBB Master
View attachment 6915
Here are some pics of the new seat struts. They are auto racing parts, swaged aluminum tubes, aluminum rod ends, and aluminum jam nuts. You need to buy two left and two right thread rod ends and nuts. That way you can adjust the exact length you need, +/- 0.50 inches. Not much adjustment right, but you can buy new swaged tubes for $10 each in 0.50 incremental lengths. So try to get it close the first time but if you need a new set its only $20 to correct the length.

The rods are 5/16 bore by 3/8 thread and the swaged rods are 3/4 OD. The strut mounts are 6mm, so I had to create bushings. I used a 5/16 stainless tubing I found on Amazon with .035 wall thickness, which works out to a perfect bushing size for the rod ends. You could probably use K&S Aluminum tubing which comes in this diameter and wall thickness also, but this was actually cheaper. You can see the tubing mounted in my workmate prior to cutting with a hacksaw and de-burring with a file. Then the bushing with the 6mm screw, and then the bushing pressed into the rod end. the next picture is the rods mounted to the home made bracket on my Thor seat. And then the lower attachment in the standard location.

View attachment 6916 View attachment 6917 View attachment 6918 View attachment 6919 View attachment 6920

I got the parts from Speedway Motors, here are the parts number, I found them on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Swedged-3-8-24-Panhard-Radius-Rod-11-in-Length/131499718588?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Rod ends are: QA1 AMR5-6 A Series Rod End, Aluminum, 3/8-24 RH, 5/16 in. Bore &
QA1 AML5-6 A Series Rod End, Aluminum, 3/8-24 LH, 5/16 in. Bore

Jam Nuts: Black Aluminum Jam Nut, 3/8-24, LH
Black Aluminum Jam Nut, 3/8-24, RH

Mark
Awesome mod on the T50, especially the adjustable seat angle. Very clever use of auto suspension parts!

Michael
 

rx7mark

Guru
Very cool! :)

I bet you could also flip the top seat post collar around so the tension bolt would be outside the plates, but on the other side.

This seems like maybe a better direction then putting the Q45 boom on the T50. It keeps the regular dropouts.

That is how I mocked it up to start, but it hit the steering tube, so I would have had to slide the whole joint farther down the tube away from the steering stem. Probably would have been OK, but the plate geometry would have been unsymmetrical and slightly compromised. So I added the access hole and left the plates simpler. It actually works very well and is easy to adjust the slider tube in less than 5 min.

Mark
 
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Rampa

Guru
Finding the clamp that works is the most significant update to this mod I have seen. Previous clamps only gripped half the slider, letting it slip. This one wraps around the whole tube, so it will hold far more securely (like the Cruzbike part). What a great coincidence on the spacing of the rack mounts on it!
 

rx7mark

Guru
Finding the clamp that works is the most significant update to this mod I have seen. Previous clamps only gripped half the slider, letting it slip. This one wraps around the whole tube, so it will hold far more securely (like the Cruzbike part). What a great coincidence on the spacing of the rack mounts on it!

Agreed, and it does not hurt that the clamps are easy to find and very cheap. I payed $11 each on E-bay. I was prepared to use washers and spacers, but it works perfectly with only two washer on each side on the stem bolt, outside the plates. The washers are required because the aluminum plates I made are only .125 vs the stock T50 parts are .25 that mount there.

Here are similar parts on Ebay. Note there are also Titanium parts like this for about $40, but I don't think they are needed, and the clamp bolts stick up into the airstream.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Seatp...xQAAOSw8nxbGx3n:sc:USPSFirstClass!98036!US!-1

Mark
 

Rampa

Guru
The other idea that brings to mind for me is if you can use a 38mm tube as the slider. Those clamps are available for 34.9 seatposts as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axiom-Trek...026531&hash=item1eacc6769c:g:VbAAAOSw2xRYloSM

so the clamp should fit a 38mm tube. I have asked them what the spacing is for the rack eyelets. Hopefully it is the same.

I think a 38mm OD 16 gauge tube is 35mm ID. Not sure if that would be snug enough to clamp on a 34.9 tube that the lower tube on the bike's boom is. I would have to cut a groove in the end for clamping. I just don't know what is needed for a proper telescoping fit. is the .1mm difference to much, to little?
 

rx7mark

Guru
My second question: Is there any lateral(sideways) play to the seat? I ask because I'am curious about the fact that there is no integral part of the main frame extending to the back of the seat to support it similar to the other cruzbike models.

The Thor seat is rock solid side to side with my front 4 bolt mount, but the new struts won't take side load untill the ball joint binds, which is pretty fast.

I am not sure these struts would work with the stock T50 seat, but I see no issues with the Thor seat, except I lost the rack mounts. But that was not an issue for me.

Mark
 
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rx7mark

Guru
Could you show your lower seat mount. It looks much cleaner than what I have done with my Thor.

Please look back to my prior thread, "T50 with a Thor seat" for details on how I did the lower mount. I did make another revision to lower the seat further, I will take some pics and post tonight.

Mark
 

rx7mark

Guru
The other idea that brings to mind for me is if you can use a 38mm tube as the slider. Those clamps are available for 34.9 seatposts as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axiom-Trek...026531&hash=item1eacc6769c:g:VbAAAOSw2xRYloSM

so the clamp should fit a 38mm tube. I have asked them what the spacing is for the rack eyelets. Hopefully it is the same.

I think a 38mm OD 16 gauge tube is 35mm ID. Not sure if that would be snug enough to clamp on a 34.9 tube that the lower tube on the bike's boom is. I would have to cut a groove in the end for clamping. I just don't know what is needed for a proper telescoping fit. is the .1mm difference to much, to little?

Great idea and I looked long and hard at this option because I liked the idea of the larger tube for the slider, but could not solve the bar mount issue. I did not think I could get my stem machined for 38mm bore due to the bolt threads for clamping. It might be possible with a different stem.

I also considered having a custom fitting made to glue or weld to the 38mm slider tube. But in the end I went with what I had and knew would work.

If you try it make sure and post your version.

Mark
 

Rampa

Guru
I'm really considering it now. I like the T50 a lot for its simplicity. I like the silver hardware you chose. Doesn't show scratches. Maybe a nice yellow frame with silver. Hmmm...... I better start saving a bit for it!

Cannondale headshock stems were made for 1.5 inch (38mm) steerer.
 

rx7mark

Guru
I'm really considering it now. I like the T50 a lot for its simplicity. I like the silver hardware you chose. Doesn't show scratches. Maybe a nice yellow frame with silver. Hmmm...... I better start saving a bit for it!

Cannondale headshock stems were made for 1.5 inch (38mm) steerer.

But can you find a short one, I couldn't.
Mark
 
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