New milestone today on the S40

[Greg S]

Did the longest ride (x2) thus far on the S40: 66 miles. NB I'd done 100k+ on a recumbent previously (in 2017) but this is the longest since returning to riding a recumbent this year.

More importantly (to me) is the route included a number of intersections where I had to stop before crossing, sometimes with cross or following traffic. I was able to get underway smoothly every time save one where I embarrassingly got enough momentum to put me into the middle of the intersection but then missed the left pedal (I clip in right footed) and didn't keep pedaling one legged until I got clipped in. No worries though, people were nice enough to stop and let me make my way to the other side.

I actually consider the second accomplishment more significant than the first. Although my previous longest ride was 36 miles I figured it was only a matter of time before I was doing longer rides. Negotiating busier roads, traffic, intersections, etc., felt like a bigger barrier to me. I won't declare victory yet, I'm nowhere near as comfortable on the S40 as I am on a DF bike but then I've ridden more than 300k miles lifetime on a DF.

I have a trip coming up soon where I'll do a number of 100k+ rides and will be on the S40. I thought long and hard about whether to take the S40 or the V20c (I own both) but decided the more upright position on the S40 would be better/safer in urban situations.

 

[Doccus]

Congrats on both accomplishments! I feel the same way about distance vs stop/start and maneuvering. Once I’m rolling, I can go without problems for a long haul. The starts/stops, sharp turns, and very steep hills are my greater challenge. The more I ride , the easier it all gets as I continue to make small adjustments in my technique. I really enjoy Cruzin….even while on the learning curve.

 

[Boreen bimbler]

Before you know it you'll suddenly realise your not even thinking about the riding mechanics. Nice ride too btw.

 

[MNBentRider]

Congratulations! I know exactly what you mean about stop/start. It can feel quite challenging at first, but it really does become almost second nature eventually. For me, the trick was to train myself to stop with the pedals positioned most optimally for my start, rather than needing to back pedal after I stopped to get things set-up right. Also I had to keep reminding myself if the pedals weren't positioned right, doing the flintstone maneuver is NOT the way to get started, but instead just calmly back pedal to get things setup right first. My inclination was to just start moving, and I've found I often cannot get sufficient momentum initially with that approach, which leaves me still struggling in the middle of the intersection.

 

[Greg S]

Thanks all. The “smaller” milestones that led to the larger one were doing the things on the S40 that come naturally to me on the DF: 1) realizing I could pedal one-legged until I got my 2nd foot engaged (either clipped in or on the pedal) and 2) only unclipping one foot when I came to a stop.

I did both of those things without even thinking about it on a DF but would e.g., unclip both feet at a stop on the S40, probably mostly due to “start anxiety”.

Excellent point about getting the pedals positioned properly being important, also shifting into an easy gear as you roll to a stop. The times I’ve been really stuck is when I didn’t do the latter and am in too hard a gear to get going.

 

[MNBentRider]

Excellent point about getting the pedals positioned properly being important, also shifting into an easy gear as you roll to a stop. The times I’ve been really stuck is when I didn’t do the latter and am in too hard a gear to get going.

Yes, it is so important to have your pedals in an easy gear to successfully start from a stop, especially when learning. It makes a HUGE difference.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Cold starts are way easier now for me on my V20 but I still give 1 strong Flintstone push and slide into place at every intersection simply because I flow through the intersection more quickly, and give the driver of the first car at the light the impression that I can hold the bike straight so that he can safely me.
With that said, I am almost always conscious of at least which side of the cassette my chain is on. I am almost never on the lowest gear but any of the 4 largest gears are fine for a cold start if needed. Because I have SRAM AXS I can see the gears on my Lezyne Mega XL, and if I am going at a good clip when I have to brake sharply at an intersection I just give the Wireless Blip shifter about 5 or 6 quick presses to get it in a proper gear and a few crank turns to be ready. I'll sometimes check the computer to confirm the gear, but that is only if I even bother to have it one in traffic. Most of the time I don't even bother to record the traffic sections of my rides any more.

 

[Joe Riel]

Please explain the "Flintstone push". What you do that with your other leg clipped in and pushing the pedal? That is, how do you actually use the leg that is on the ground? I'm familiar with using both legs on the ground (two-legged Flintstone), but then have to clip in both shoes, which takes too much time (when climbing). My one legged push off the ground is awkward and pathetic. Or do you push outward, like a speed skater? I just push hard on the pedal and quickly try to clip in the ground leg (which doesn't do significant pushing off the ground). I manage on small gradients, maybe 2-3%, if there is no traffic. Would like to see a video of someone starting going up a hill, with cleats.

 

[Boreen bimbler]

I find correct gear selection at the correct time very important on the CB. Especially with hills as you can't stand up and tough it out for a few seconds to give you a decrease in pedal pressure to change down. And if you get stuck on a real steep bit you can't get going again and have to turn around for another go (I refuse to push up a hill unless the bike is broken).

 

[Frito Bandito]

While waiting at a light I am sitting about halfway up the seat like on a barstool with my elbows on the bars. When the light is going to change I will stand up, straddling my bike and give a single but strong push with my legs that will get me moving, and slide down the seat and put both feet on the pedals. Most of the time the clip in is quick so I can start pedaling strongly right away, but even if the clip in isn't perfect I can still pedal at a slightly lower power output until I can clip in. At the lights my left pedal will be at 12 o'clock since that is what is most comfortable for me.
This is probably best labeled as butt sliding.

Flintstoning is I think collectively believed to be staying seated and propelling yourself along with your feet on the ground until you have enough momentum to keep it upright and get your feet in place. I've tried it and cold starts with my feet on the pedals on my V20 but for me both of those look way less elegant and is slower off the line than the butt slide for me.

Another reason for me starting that way is that it gets me up to speed with the flow of traffic more quickly. Drivers here are patient so there really isn't so much of a feeling of them trying to bully me off the road because I am on a bike, but by keeping up with them as much as possible, especially when the bike lane ahead is blocked by a parked vehicle let's them see that trying to pass me in those narrow places really isn't necessary. This makes the whole interaction way less stressful.

 

[Joe Riel]

Thanks for the description of the "butt slide". Do you also use it on the V20? I was planning to practice various starting techniques in the school parking lot today, but there was a book sale and too many cars, so used the time for 1/2 mile intervals and short hill repeats. My 20 year old shoes with speedplays have worn soles, so no "stiction" and would not work for the two legged push. Went to a local bike store to inspect new shoes. The boa system is interesting.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Yes, I only have a V20. I'm not sure about the seat height difference between it and an S40, but I'd guess that cold starts or Flintstoning on an S40 would probably be easier due to the higher seat angle.
As for shoes I use MTB shoes simply because it is easier to walk around in them than with road bike shoes when I am off the bike. I had snowboard boots with the Boa system on it, but I found that the wires got rusty too quickly for my tastes so I just use shoes that have velcro straps because less parts to break.

 

[Joe Riel]

I also have MTB shoes with SPD cleats. Was trying the SpeedPlays because my entry into them is more consistent and faster. The grip on the road, though is not good. Will try the SPDs with the "butt slide", though might practice with running shoes and flat pedals to get the motion down.

 

[vmi1056]

I actually find the Flintstone method to be easier on the V20 as oppose to the S40 due to the V20 seat being more parallel to the ground and I can actually sit on the seat while standing where, due to the higher angle of the S40, and the seat not being as "flat" as the V20, it is a little more difficult to actually sit on the seat while your legs are extended or if you are standing. I believe Robert has a video on YouTube illustrating this as well. That said, it's not impossible and I used that method when I was learning to ride the S40 but it is a lot easier for me on the V20 to Flintstone and seat slide. The rough surface of the Ventisit pad however encouraged me to practice cold starts because it's a rough ride when you slide on that thing! Shoes, Spd mountain bike shoes for the win all day for me.

 

[Boreen bimbler]

I think the only time I "flintstoned" was my first time on my S40 in a car park. I just find it easier to start pushing the pedal. And I'm another MTB shoe user. I never used road cleats on any bike as I always had multiple bikes and didn't want to get different shoes. And you can walk in them of course.

 

[Greg S]

I think the only time I "flintstoned" was my first time on my S40 in a car park. I just find it easier to start pushing the pedal. And I'm another MTB shoe user. I never used road cleats on any bike as I always had multiple bikes and didn't want to get different shoes. And you can walk in them of course.

Likewise on both never having "flintstoned" and using SPD's although I currently have flats on my V20. Not quite "there" yet with maneuvering the V20 in urban traffic, starts, etc., and will continue riding flats until I am.

 

[Robert Holler]

I always recommend MTB shoes/cleats if you are going to go clipless. Actual road shoes are no bueno as you cant actually walk on them.

 

[devonian]

Is there any meaningful difference in drag between mountain bike and road shoes on a Cruzbike? I assume it would be an incredibly small difference no matter what, but since shoes are the first things to hit the air, I wonder how much drag it would save to have smooth soles.

 

[Robert Holler]

Is there any meaningful difference in drag between mountain bike and road shoes on a Cruzbike? I assume it would be an incredibly small difference no matter what, but since shoes are the first things to hit the air, I wonder how much drag it would save to have smooth soles.

Unless you are averaging 20-plus mph all the time I imagine it is negligible.

 

[jrs665]

Did the longest ride (x2) thus far on the S40: 66 miles. NB I'd done 100k+ on a recumbent previously (in 2017) but this is the longest since returning to riding a recumbent this year.

More importantly (to me) is the route included a number of intersections where I had to stop before crossing, sometimes with cross or following traffic. I was able to get underway smoothly every time save one where I embarrassingly got enough momentum to put me into the middle of the intersection but then missed the left pedal (I clip in right footed) and didn't keep pedaling one legged until I got clipped in. No worries though, people were nice enough to stop and let me make my way to the other side.

I actually consider the second accomplishment more significant than the first. Although my previous longest ride was 36 miles I figured it was only a matter of time before I was doing longer rides. Negotiating busier roads, traffic, intersections, etc., felt like a bigger barrier to me. I won't declare victory yet, I'm nowhere near as comfortable on the S40 as I am on a DF bike but then I've ridden more than 300k miles lifetime on a DF.

I have a trip coming up soon where I'll do a number of 100k+ rides and will be on the S40. I thought long and hard about whether to take the S40 or the V20c (I own both) but decided the more upright position on the S40 would be better/safer in urban situations.

The most I have done was about 12 miles, but had to walk quite a bit on the way back becausue it was up a steep hill which I could climb on the S40 , but did not for the reasons below.

At traffic lights on the hill, if I didnt get it right first time would hold up all the traffic, so got off and walked past the lights. While climbing the hill was in a cycle lane with bollards on concrete bases separating it from traffic. If I wobled , could hit the concrete base so had to get off, and unable to start again as would hit the concrete base if wobbed.

This journey gave me doubts about the viability of the S40 for me due to my disability which makes it hard for me to walk, my legs were on the point of packing in due to the walking on that hill. Walking any distance up a hill is not an option for me. What if this happened miles from home? Perhaphs better off just riding my recumbent trikes whereby I dont have to get off and walk.

If there is no traffic though, and not using the cycle lane, would have had no issues as the S40 is very comfortable and no doubt, could ride it all day in comfort.

With regard to making a mess starting off, was practicing hillstarts on a hill on a deserted quite backstreet. A couple of workmen laughed at me and told me to get off the road if I dont know how to ride, which is a bit hypocritical as he learned to drive his car on the road.