Q45 Upgrades
- Thread starter Tortue
- Start date
Tortue
Active Member
The fender shape swings it back like a glancing blow. Before I had done a lot of testing, I'd accidentally left it engaged and didn't realize it after several normal turns. Apparently there's enough spring in the frame mounted piece to allow "average" cornering, even while engaged. I'm sketching up an adjustable spring loaded device that can be set to hold the wheel, but snap into the stored position just by turning the wheel against it.
And you're going to come up with a clever name for it.
And you're going to come up with a clever name for it.
AWESOME! Might I ask what source you used for that motor? I am not up on what is out there for converting a through axle setup for an E-hub.
Robert
Robert
Tortue
Active Member
Robert,
All components are from Grin Tech in Vancouver, BC.
This motor is the All Axle Hub motor (4kg/Fast winding). They sell adapters for any axle size. Really slick.
I'm using their Phaserunner programmable controller, CA3 display, three button programmable switch and a rheostat for cruise control.
Their products are not cheap but the quality really shows. There's also an incredible amount of parameter adjustment in their systems.
My favorite feature is the ability to inject the motor with just enough power to overcome the added weight and friction of the components to mimic riding without all the goodies. Not to mention the cruise control and regen braking.
I've got a couple of 14ah 52v batteries and I'm gathering materials to build a 20ah/52v.
Check 'em out. Great crew.
BTW I was able to machine a standard Hailong Battery mount using the water bottle holes under the seat with 2" aluminum, 1/8" wall architectural channel. Just enough room for nylon washers to protect the paint as well.
All components are from Grin Tech in Vancouver, BC.
This motor is the All Axle Hub motor (4kg/Fast winding). They sell adapters for any axle size. Really slick.
I'm using their Phaserunner programmable controller, CA3 display, three button programmable switch and a rheostat for cruise control.
Their products are not cheap but the quality really shows. There's also an incredible amount of parameter adjustment in their systems.
My favorite feature is the ability to inject the motor with just enough power to overcome the added weight and friction of the components to mimic riding without all the goodies. Not to mention the cruise control and regen braking.
I've got a couple of 14ah 52v batteries and I'm gathering materials to build a 20ah/52v.
Check 'em out. Great crew.
BTW I was able to machine a standard Hailong Battery mount using the water bottle holes under the seat with 2" aluminum, 1/8" wall architectural channel. Just enough room for nylon washers to protect the paint as well.
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billyk
Guru
@Tortue was nice enough to make me one, and deliver it, and even install it!
I've been using it, and it works. Not failsafe if you've got extra weight on the bike (I haven't tried it yet with my fairing) but very convenient. Also, I can wheel the bike holding it by the seat, one thing DF bikers do routinely but we usually can't.
But I still want to know how that sailboat climbs! Looks to me like that thing would be a beast on even a small hill ...
Tortue
Active Member
Not as cozy as those NOAA ships, fer sher.
Tighten the PPE the way I showed you, or throw it out. No loss.
If your fairing makes the wheel flop, tighten it up and leave it there. It'll still get outta the way if you need to make a turn. The position of the device is so close to the fulcrum that it doesn't take much effort to overcome the swivel friction I designed. Capisce?
That's failsafe, right?
Tighten the PPE the way I showed you, or throw it out. No loss.
If your fairing makes the wheel flop, tighten it up and leave it there. It'll still get outta the way if you need to make a turn. The position of the device is so close to the fulcrum that it doesn't take much effort to overcome the swivel friction I designed. Capisce?
That's failsafe, right?
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Can you share some details about the headrest? Did you make it or is it from components that you assembled into the final format? Where are the components from if you bought them?
Tortue
Active Member
The headrest is 3d printed parts, 2"X1/8" aluminum for the cradle, 3/16" stainless rod and some gardening knee-pad foam . The cut foam edges are easily burnished with a heat gun or blue flame. I used 77 spray adhesive to stick it to the headrest cradle.
I have a new design that allows the headrest height to be adjusted via the seat back mounting bolts. They'll compress the rods after adjustment.
Also, I'll be replacing the aluminum cradle with a 3d printed part, once I get a bit more high density foam for adhesion experiments.
The current seat back mount also includes the canopy rod mounting holes. For the headrest alone, the mount would be much more compact.
I have a new design that allows the headrest height to be adjusted via the seat back mounting bolts. They'll compress the rods after adjustment.
Also, I'll be replacing the aluminum cradle with a 3d printed part, once I get a bit more high density foam for adhesion experiments.
The current seat back mount also includes the canopy rod mounting holes. For the headrest alone, the mount would be much more compact.
I agree. Jon @Tortue is really awesome!
Thanks for responding. Sadly I don't have a 3D printer so that's probably not an option for me. Was hoping you purchased components and assembled from there. Guess I'll have to keep searching.
artchris0002@yahoo.com
Member
Do you have any suggestions for those of us neophytes without 3D printers on how to make a wheel stop. Your solution is the absolute coolest thing I have ever seen someone make from scratch on a 3D Printer.
I find that wheel swing is the one thing I continually have to contend with. I even have paint chipped from the wheel swing when the pedals were in the wrong location.
On another note: I have tried to reduce my seat angle to about 30 degrees. In this configuration, I find the handlebars interfere with forward vision. Has anyone come across this or found a solution to this problem?
I hate to cut the steering stem down. Another possible solution would be to raise the seat with one of the longer seat brackets on the front mounting point. Just wondering if anyone else is configuring their Q45 for more performance.
I find that wheel swing is the one thing I continually have to contend with. I even have paint chipped from the wheel swing when the pedals were in the wrong location.
On another note: I have tried to reduce my seat angle to about 30 degrees. In this configuration, I find the handlebars interfere with forward vision. Has anyone come across this or found a solution to this problem?
I hate to cut the steering stem down. Another possible solution would be to raise the seat with one of the longer seat brackets on the front mounting point. Just wondering if anyone else is configuring their Q45 for more performance.
