S40 Enroute: Did I choose right?

[Terrarium]

No experience on recumbents but lots of experience on roadbikes. My balance is good, but i'm a little out of shape. I'm 42 and 190 lbs, 5'10". I love speed, and I don't presume this is going to be an overnight process. STILL should I have got with the T50? or Q45? Is that 10 degree variance really that extreme?

Thanks for any advice, looking forward to using the forum for guidance.

 

[Phantomrider]

Short answer is you’re gonna love the S40 and made the correct choice. Just be patient as you learn to ride it and accept the fact that speed will come in time. How much time is really up to you, coming from a road bike, you will be using different muscles so the body needs to adapt as well as the mind. Personally I think the s40 is a great endurance road bike. speed is a relative term and has different meaning to each of us, to some it’s 20mph while it’s 14 to others. You will find the S40 will work for you in most all situations because of its versatility. the real speed machine is the V20 cruising at 20+ just isn’t a big deal on this bike. I own one of each and they have their different purpose. I‘ve only owned a s40 for a few weeks now and have come to really enjoy the bike, it’s versatility and comfort in every environment I’ve put it in.

good luck, enjoy the journey

 

[waswadener]

You have chosen wisely. I love my S40 for clocking many road miles, group rides, etc; also for commuting. My T50 is more commuter specific. Please allow yourself messy freedom to learn to ride a recumbent. It’s superior in comfort and speed to a traditional road bike but quite a different mental / spatial sensation. You’ll be happy with your S40. You made a good decision.

 

[Terrarium]

@waswadener got it, thanks for clarifying that distinction.

@Phantomrider Should I expect that any bike shop can assemble this for me? I'm in phoenix.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Welcome to the club Terrarium. There are S40 tutorials online so you can do it yourself with some basic tools and understanding of bikes. You'd need access to a torque wrench at least for the bottom bracket, but essentially it is the same parts as a DF (diamond frame) bike with them only in different locations. If you want to pay a bike shop to do it I am quite sure you can find one in Phoenix. Take a look at the series though. You might be able to save some money, and become a lot more familiar with the inner workings of the bike.

As for the balance issues, it can't be said enough... learn slow speed maneuvering first. It takes some people like me a really long time to get your balance while in a reclined position. It took me about 2 weeks. 1 week of just puttering around the block until I felt confident enough to take my V20 to the bike path without wrecking, and then another week building up speed. It took the LBS owner about 37 seconds to learn to pedal across the parking lot without dumping it over. I was amazed and shocked when he stuck his feet on the pedals when I told him "Don't even try to put your feet on the pedals, just coast while sitting up." Take your time and be patient. The S40 is a great bike and I bet you are going to be smashing your DF speeds in no time.

 

[chicorider]

Welcome aboard! The beauty of the S40 is that it can do most kinds of riding at least pretty well, and is perhaps the best choice for someone just switching over from faster df road riding. Once you're over the learning curve, you should be able to at least match your df speeds, if not exceed them. I've enjoyed watching how different riders deck out their S40s, from trimmed down endurance road machines, to balloon-tired gravel crunchers, to racked-up, loaded down multi-day tourers. I think it is the most versatile model in the CB lineup. The V20 is faster, and it's a blast to ride, but it's utility is narrower. The Q45 has gobs of utility, but sustaining higher speeds could be a lot of work.

 

[Phantomrider]

@waswadener got it, thanks for clarifying that distinction.

@Phantomrider Should I expect that any bike shop can assemble this for me? I'm in phoenix.

Suggest you watch the videos and see just how easy this is, but to answer your question any self respecting bike shop can do the build for you. It’s really just a bike and all the components are just like any other bike. The fit is done quite differently than your accustomed to, there are multiple moving pieces to get it right. The video series will also walk you though that process And most bike shops will not be familiar with the process, a good bike fitter can assist you as you educate them on The moving pieces to get everything setup. after watching the video you will see that it too is quite easy once you understand the `three points of adjustment for fit. The good news is the seat never has to be adjusted because it is fixed and large and comfortable

 

[Black Hawk Down]

You should do well on the S40 as you're not very heavy. I'm about 240 lbs and after a massive effort to reduce recumbutt, I was unsuccessful. I rode my S40 on a 11000 mile tour around the US and felt butt pain the whole way. I now use it as a part source for my V20, which I love and have no recumbutt. I hope to use my V20 for my next tour using a lightweight trailer.

 

[Robert Holler]

 

[Terrarium]

Suggest you watch the videos and see just how easy this is, but to answer your question any self respecting bike shop can do the build for you. It’s really just a bike and all the components are just like any other bike. The fit is done quite differently than your accustomed to, there are multiple moving pieces to get it right. The video series will also walk you though that process And most bike shops will not be familiar with the process, a good bike fitter can assist you as you educate them on The moving pieces to get everything setup. after watching the video you will see that it too is quite easy once you understand the `three points of adjustment for fit. The good news is the seat never has to be adjusted because it is fixed and large and comfortable

Yes yes, I'm going to fit myself for sure, that's clearly easy. Honestly i'm just lazy.

 

[Terrarium]

View attachment 14504

A+, winter warehouse shutdown is actually good timing for me.

 

[Tuloose]

You should do well on the S40 as you're not very heavy. I'm about 240 lbs and after a massive effort to reduce recumbutt, I was unsuccessful. I rode my S40 on a 11000 mile tour around the US and felt butt pain the whole way. I now use it as a part source for my V20, which I love and have no recumbutt. I hope to use my V20 for my next tour using a lightweight trailer.

I've always thought the Extrawheel trailer would be a great trailer for the V. It is single wheel, light and just carries a set of panniers.

 

[Black Hawk Down]

I've always thought the Extrawheel trailer would be a great trailer for the V. It is single wheel, light and just carries a set of panniers.

I did try a very light single wheel trailer, but the V20 would wobble uncomfortably. I assume it's because my weight is pushing the bike to the limit and the trailer put side forces plus some weight on the back wheel. Anyway, I don't believe the Extrawheel would do any better. I just have to lose weight, which I'm working on most ardently.

 

[Mathew Fy]

You should do well on the S40 as you're not very heavy. I'm about 240 lbs and after a massive effort to reduce recumbutt, I was unsuccessful. I rode my S40 on a 11000 mile tour around the US and felt butt pain the whole way. I now use it as a part source for my V20, which I love and have no recumbutt. I hope to use my V20 for my next tour using a lightweight trailer.

I enjoyed following along with your blog: "2021 Tour around the USA perimeter"

2021 Tour around the USA perimeter, by billweberx

Includes the Adventure Cycling routes Southern Tier, East Coast, Northern Tier, West Coast, Rocky Mountains, Sierra Nevada and Cascade mountains

www.crazyguyonabike.com

Thanks for sharing, and I'm interested in how the V20 works for touring. I saw that you wrote a while ago: "I no longer believe the V20 can be used for touring with a heavy load, either panniers or trailer. Too much horizontal flex in the frame. If you're not camping and carrying a light load, you can use the Radical Designs large banana panniers, but your legs will be crowded when you stand up at stops."
My V20 worked well for some credit card touring, staying in hotels. I plan to give loaded touring a try, at least for a couple overnighters as a test. Maybe the V20c will be a bit stronger with its new rear triangle attachments. Maybe I can get my body down to Ideal Body Weight. Eventually I'd like to do my own epic tour.

 

[Black Hawk Down]

I enjoyed following along with your blog: "2021 Tour around the USA perimeter"

2021 Tour around the USA perimeter, by billweberx

Includes the Adventure Cycling routes Southern Tier, East Coast, Northern Tier, West Coast, Rocky Mountains, Sierra Nevada and Cascade mountains

www.crazyguyonabike.com

Thanks for sharing, and I'm interested in how the V20 works for touring. I saw that you wrote a while ago: "I no longer believe the V20 can be used for touring with a heavy load, either panniers or trailer. Too much horizontal flex in the frame. If you're not camping and carrying a light load, you can use the Radical Designs large banana panniers, but your legs will be crowded when you stand up at stops."
My V20 worked well for some credit card touring, staying in hotels. I plan to give loaded touring a try, at least for a couple overnighters as a test. Maybe the V20c will be a bit stronger with its new rear triangle attachments. Maybe I can get my body down to Ideal Body Weight. Eventually I'd like to do my own epic tour.

It was quite the tour. I'm getting hungry for another, but I decided not to do one until I get rid of all my excess weight. That will take a year or so.

I do think it's possible to comfortably use the V20 for credit card tours if you are not overweight. I have some special needs that adds quite a bit of weight as I have sleep apnea. I use a portable, battery operated cpap. With all the batteries, the weight burden is 5-10 lbs, depending on how often I can recharge the batteries. I also bring a laptop with me to blog. Finally, I use my phone with RideWithGPS full time and need power banks and charge bricks to keep it charged. Future tours may include a gopro and a small drone. I'm committed to using the V20 for touring as I can't find any other bike that I would like to use.

I plan to experiment with a 1X12 component group. I have Ultegra DI2 2X11 currently. I'm tired of the chain coming off the front ring and there seems to be a big (3-4 sec) delay when the chain moves from the large ring to the small one. I don't know why and can't seem to get rid of it. One way is to get rid of the front derailleur. I'm also considering using 26" wheels so that I can put fatter tires on the V20. Currently I have rim brakes, but I'm planning to shift to disk. I have a jury rigged rack on the back that I think will work. It currently holds a trunk for my tools, spare tubes and extra clothing layers.

As far as touring bags, I'll be looking at Radical Designs various banana bags. I own the large, 70 liter bags, but they prevent walking the bike while standing up to get started, which I do at every stop light. I may go with the small, 40 liter bag and add some bike packing smaller bags around the frame. The other alternative is I have a very light weight Bob like trailer (Free Parable T2). total weigh is only 7.9 lbs and can carry 75 liters and 66 lbs. This seems like a good option while on the road but I fear it will be a hassle to bring up to the hotel rooms. The bike's hard enough already.

 

[bladderhead]

I plan to experiment with a 1X12 component group. I have Ultegra DI2 2X11 currently. I'm tired of the chain coming off the front ring and there seems to be a big (3-4 sec) delay when the chain moves from the large ring to the small one. I don't know why and can't seem to get rid of it.

Excellent idea. Escape the tyranny of the awful double clangers. So last millennium.

 

[Black Hawk Down]

The problem with the FD is that when shifting from the large chainring to the small, it makes a large move instantly, but it's not enough to move the chain to the smaller ring. After about 2 - 3 sec, it makes another smaller move and the chain does shift to the small ring. I tried adjusting the derailleur so that the first large move will make the shift change, but then when shifting the chain from the small ring to the large ring, it won't make it. In frustration, I used a pair of pliers and squeezed the metal derailleur loop together so the chain barely fits inside, made adjustments to the positioning, and voila, it works. There is some light rubbing of the chain on the sides of the derailleur loop.

If the chain's rubbing is too much, I'll pull the cord on a 1X12 system. In which case, should I go with Sram or stick with DI2, since I'm already all in on Shimano Ultegra? The Sram Rival etap GX AXS Mullet (plus chain ring), conversion looks very reasonable in price and easy to install as it's wireless. I can get a 12 gear 10-52 freewheel, which gives more range than the Shimano offerings. For Shimano, I'd have to buy an XT M8150 derailleur and freewheel, along with the single chain ring. The freewheel would be 11-50. Seems Sram gives a better range and I like the wireless idea.

Edit: Actually, I discovered you can get freewheels from both SRAM and Shimano with good range. SRAM: 10-52, Shimano: 10-51. That makes the decision harder.

 

[Frito Bandito]

I bought a SRAM Force AXS for my V20 at the worst time possible (Covid) but I absolutely LOOOOVE the wireless system. It only needed a few microclicks out of the box to be setup perfectly, and the only thing I have done to it in 15 months or so is change the batteries. I simply got tired of having to relearn how to adjust a wired system once the cable stretched enough to jack up the shifting. I also have to say that a wireless system made adjusting or switching bars so easy, and if I ever had to disassemble my bike for transport then rewiring both derailleurs was never needed.

I get about 800km out of the RD battery charge, and probably 1200-1500 out of the FD before the battery needs replacing. What I always do though is when the RD light blinks red at the end of a ride is put the FD battery in the RD, charge the dead battery and put it in the FD for the next ride. I'm always on the flats so I don't even need to change the FD for my rides, so the FD acts as a battery storage for the RD when it dies.

Shimano Di2 most likely shifts equally well, and if it was a wireless system I probably would have went with Shimano just because I am in Japan and would have great support for it since all the bike shops here carry it. I am not a fan of cables, or trying to hide a battery (and wire) in the frame or boom though. Had to say if you should switch though as it is not a cheap option.

 

[Black Hawk Down]

I bought a SRAM Force AXS for my V20 at the worst time possible (Covid) but I absolutely LOOOOVE the wireless system. It only needed a few microclicks out of the box to be setup perfectly, and the only thing I have done to it in 15 months or so is change the batteries. I simply got tired of having to relearn how to adjust a wired system once the cable stretched enough to jack up the shifting. I also have to say that a wireless system made adjusting or switching bars so easy, and if I ever had to disassemble my bike for transport then rewiring both derailleurs was never needed.

I get about 800km out of the RD battery charge, and probably 1200-1500 out of the FD before the battery needs replacing. What I always do though is when the RD light blinks red at the end of a ride is put the FD battery in the RD, charge the dead battery and put it in the FD for the next ride. I'm always on the flats so I don't even need to change the FD for my rides, so the FD acts as a battery storage for the RD when it dies.

Shimano Di2 most likely shifts equally well, and if it was a wireless system I probably would have went with Shimano just because I am in Japan and would have great support for it since all the bike shops here carry it. I am not a fan of cables, or trying to hide a battery (and wire) in the frame or boom though. Had to say if you should switch though as it is not a cheap option.

Thanks for the info. I'm leaning toward a 1X12 SRAM wireless system.

 

[Frito Bandito]

YW. I have the short cage RD so I can only go up to a 33t (SRAM). I use a KMC chain now, and an Ultegra 12-speed 11-30 cassette, and it is fine for the flats, and the relatively small climbs I encounter with my 105 52/34 chainrings. I read that it is possible to use the Ultegra 11-34t cassette with the short cage by maxing out the B-screw on the RD so I bought a 12-speed Ultegra 11-34t cassette. But I have not tried it. I can be finicky with my cadence because I am almost always trying to set Strava PRs. For touring I don't think the larger gaps on a 1x12 would have me wishing for a 2x12 system unless it had some monster climbs. When my current 105 cranks finally need replacing I will buy a 53/39, and maybe swap out the 39t for a 34t. My SRAM FD handles the jump from my current 52t to the 34t perfectly so it should handle the 53t to 34t as well if I swap the smaller rings.