SRAM 11-speed 11-36 cassette for double chainrings?

Ifan Payne

Member
Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful and helpful replies.

A bit of background that will explain why I asked the original question and also my current decision. I am 72 years old, live in Santa Fe New Mexico at 7000 feet where everything is up hill to get out of town I have ridden bikes all my life but only as a recreation, have never trained or raced, but enjoy distance riding: centuries and multi-day supported rides. For example, last year I rode the week of Cycle Greater Yellowstone, 450 miles, 20,000 ft of climbing , this year I am registered for the week of Cycle Oregon in September.

So a couple of years ago I designed and built from scratch (including the frame) a stainless steel road bike that I believed would suit my style of riding (distance but not athletic). I used a SRAM RedBlack groupset with an 11-speed 11-32 cassette on the back but, because of not being able to generate the power of a younger rider, I inserted a Sugino crank set with 46/30 chain rings, 165mm cranks. It all works perfectly and I was passing people a third of my age as we cycled over Teton Pass during the first day of Cycle Greater Yellowstone.

I have ordered the Silvio frame and am looking to see how I can build up components for a similar sort of performance as my road bike.

I should state here that there is a given: I like the SRAM products and am wedded to double-tap brifters which I love. So guess I start at the double-taps and work backwards from there!

My ideal would be an 11-speed, 10-36 cassette with 48/32 chain rings which would give me a slighter faster top end and a slightly more comfortable bottom end for the long hills (a range of 23.8 to 128.1 gear inches verses the 25.1 to 111.6 which I currently have on my stainless steel road bike) with relatively even steps though the range. A 42-tooth cog would be overkill at both the bottom and top end.

My thinking now is that the compromise will be that I will sacrifice the more even steps between the gears of an 11-speed for proven technology and I will go with the XG-1080, 10-speed, 11-36 (with X9 type 2.1 RD) and 48/32 chain rings. I probably will go for a top end yaw brifter because of the smooth gear change to the large chain ring.
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
There are examples of people installing triple cranks on Silvios and Vendettas. There is a thread about getting a 74 BCD triple to work (which means you can get a granny gear down to 24T).

I'm apparently the weakling of the group as I like really low gearing. For me, a nice triple with a decently wide range cassette is the way to go (I have a 48/38/22 on my Sofrider and a 50/39/24 on my Cruzigami Mantis). If you're worried about hills, a triple isn't a crazy idea at all.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Ah that makes so much sense.

PM scabinetguy, his derailleur stalk bracket replacement end would let you modify the bike to use a 48/32 with cleaner shifting. That would also put 11sp 11-36 back on the table.
 

trplay

Zen MBB Master
Thanks Ratz, the new housing appears to have fixed the problem (only changed the lower piece). I would have chased that gremlin forever and never found it.
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
Thanks Ratz, the new housing appears to have fixed the problem (only changed the lower piece). I would have chased that gremlin forever and never found it.
That's what so great about a forum like this, you get to tap into "The Experienced" and learn something new, in my case quite often. That would have been last thing I would have thought. Thanks Bob ;)!
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Tiltmanic has a Sugino double crank 74 BCD and 130 BCD ($500 ) with 27 T and 50 T Q ring 10% oval Chain-rings, and a 11 to 36 10 speed cassette on his new S30, which gives a 19.7" to 119" gear range, and at 92 cadence low range up to 18.3 kph (11 mph) , and 52 kph (33 mph) in high range. The crank needs to be moved sideways approx 5 mm to miss the BB clamp.

A cheaper crank option is a FSA Gossamer triple with a 153 mm crank ($239 from Bikesmith, with a 30, 39, 53 T chain rings) OR $232 with a 175 mm crank, using the low and middle positions, and possibly a 53 tooth chainring with it teeth machined off as a leg protector and chain retainer.

I have the FSA Gossamer triple on my Silvio V1.0 45 degree seat back, with a 153 mm crank with a 24T round, 39 T Q Ring, and 53 Qring, with a 10 speed 11-34 rear, which gives me a 18.5" to 132" gear range, as this 63 yr old engine is overweight and under-powered, and consumes HUGE quantities of water to run, so 10% grades are at 3.5 kp h(2.2 mph) at 35 cadence , and 5% declines at 76 kph (48 mph) at 120 cadence, which I regulary do so I can get up the next hill as far as possible before going at a snail pace!

The drop from midrange to low is large, so I only use low range for grades >5%, and when changing down to low, I need to change up 3 rear gears!

I always had to do one change at a time with my Shimano Ultegra, otherwise the chain would drop off the inside OR get jammed between Low and Mid range.
Should I have had more derailleur tension or a shorter chain as I can just go Large/Large, and Small/Small.

24 39 53 triple with chain catcher.JPG
I have added a chain catcher and a bent tent peg to stop this happening.
Have other people with a large drop from Mid to Low had the same problem?
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
I have added a chain catcher and a bent tent peg to stop this happening.
Have other people with a large drop from Mid to Low had the same problem?

I have a chain catcher on both of my bikes (50/39/24 and 48/38/22). I agree with you; I think it's the size of the drop that causes the sometimes problem. With the chain catcher, I have no issues.

Added: I have N-Gear jump stops on both of my bikes and will be adding to my soon to be created creation as well.
 
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super slim

Zen MBB Master
Yes, and with the Whole range of Cruzbikes, and MORE demo bikes in all different sizes, and settings than ANY bike shop I have seen!!!
Is there a Cruzbike helium flashing sign out side his garage!!!
I have not seen any photos of the outside of the garage recently!!!
 

Ifan Payne

Member
I like the sound of Tiltmanic's set up but I wonder what problems there might be with changing up or down on the chain rings with such a large 23 tooth gap between 27 and 50.

Also, how does he "move the crank sideways" 5mm?
 

Ifan Payne

Member
Thanks, but I still wonder about the big gear shift and, I guess, that there is no problem with the chain on the small ring clearing the big ring over the whole range of the cassette.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
I think that the 2012 Qrings are 2/3rd the weight of the Shimano Ultegra SL 2008 chain-rings and change MUCH quicker, but that could also be due to 4 years extra development in the chainring shifting design.
I currently change from 24 T round to 39 Q Ring with its maximum size at 41 T, so a 17 teeth change.
It is slow as there are NO pins or cutouts in the 39 T q Ring as it is part of a Double Chainring set! But I am not racing, so "No Worries Mate!!!"
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Thanks, but I still wonder about the big gear shift and, I guess, that there is no problem with the chain on the small ring clearing the big ring over the whole range of the cassette.

Front derailleurs are generally under-spec'ed. That is, they can handle a bigger range than stated.

As far as small ring and the whole range of the cassette, you need to make sure you have a rear derailleur with enough capacity. This is why I usually go long-cage.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
I use the Shimano Dyna-Sys SLX rear Derailleur with a 36T max rear sprocket, and 43 Tooth chain wrap.
I do not know what the Sram equal is.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
FSA Gossamer triple with a 153 mm crank ($239 from Bikesmith, with a 30, 39, 53 T chain rings)

If Mark @ Bikesmith is selling this; it will work correctly; he's a stickler for that sort of thing. With a chain guard it should shift smooth; worst case is you are backing off the pressure and slow pedal down shifting. That's actually very easy to do on a CB because you can look right at your feet. I have never had an over or under-shift that I couldn't correct while pedaling. If I had Rick's hills I would consider that a viable option. I like the simplicity of a Double; but I road with a triple on my Trek Y-Foil77 for 5 years and did well with it even if I got snickers. Yes they use to make a durace road triple. o_O As for the offset that's been done a few time as reported on the forums without a problem.

Ratz does have a Cruzbike showroom

We are down two Bike's this year. Grandpa took his to Las Vegas, and Student 1 this year took his to Madison WI after having to wait a year (post motorcycle accident) to finally ride it. So only 7 CB's now; and 5 traditional bike; plus assorted frames and wheels. So my sig is accurate again. Still no boat.


Rick, when do you think he is going to become a Cruzbike Dealer???

Bahahahaha you every met a bike dealer that makes a profit and has time to ride? :eek: Seriously though I'm so slow on a build that it takes 4 days to assemble one. I'd have to charge $1500 to set one up. Best leave it to the pros. :(

I have 6 more years before my first solo RAAM attempt will be viable; until then I'll test anything and everything. Perhaps I'll have a CF CB by then. As long as my eidetic memory holds I'll share what I learn, frankly I got luckily on Moose's cable, If I hadn't been in the garage cussing :mad: at the green quest 3 weeks ago that never would have occurred to me. What's the old saying? It's not what you know it's what you have done wrong before.....

That said if someone really wants a Di2 Silvio or Vendetta and doesn't want to do it; PM me and I'll find away to do it; these bikes are made for Di2.

I have not seen any photos of the outside of the garage recently!!!

The cherry tree is about to bloom in the next 3 weeks; we'll have all the bikes out for annual photos and maybe we'll get something good to pay back Lucida for fixing the forums. Fingers crossed.
 
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