I ordered the conversion kit and have been searching for a suitable dual suspension donor bike. No luck as yet, but I do have 4 mountain bikes (hardtails) hanging in my garage! I ride a 17" frame and have 12 and 13 inch frames from my kids that have been gathering dust. I am considering converting the 13" trek frame and was interested in any opinions about its suitability. I have read here about the recommended 3" clearance from inseam and "no greater than" 17" frame" suggestions. I'm wondering more if a 13" frame is too small? the With that frame size I have 8" clearance from inseam, but I can imagine that there may be a size issue? I have included a picture below. Thanks!!
Suitable for Conversion?
- Thread starter Mark B
- Start date
Mark B
Zen MBB Master
Yeah, but to get the seat reclined at all, you will have to have the pan further up the top tube. It's worth a try, you can just attach the seat and see if the reach is doable. I'm just looking at the severity of the top tube angle. The nose of the pan is going to be quite elevated, which means you will want a pretty good recline on the seat back. By the time you get the seat pan far enough up the top tube, I fear you will be out of the comfort zone for dabbing a foot down, which you will be doing a lot of when first learning to ride. Try it, though. All it will cost you is a little time!
Mark
Doug Burton
Zen MBB Master
Hi Bravewave...
I built my first conversion on a frame that is functionally identical to the one you're showing, although it was a Toys-r-Us steel bike and weighed a ton.
As you can see, I used a different seat, but the comments about seat height are consistent with what I found.
The bike worked quite well, climbed really well considering it weighed 47 lbs. It made me want to improve a few things:
-lighter frame
-lower seat
-seat closer to the bars
Mark is right in that the seat will want to end up at about 28" because of the top tube angle. Also, the whole Cruzbike dynamic seems to get a little sweeter as you get the seat closer to the steerer tube (that's been my experience on all of them I've built so far).
However, if you are tall, this frame can work fine for you.
Best,
I built my first conversion on a frame that is functionally identical to the one you're showing, although it was a Toys-r-Us steel bike and weighed a ton.
As you can see, I used a different seat, but the comments about seat height are consistent with what I found.
The bike worked quite well, climbed really well considering it weighed 47 lbs. It made me want to improve a few things:
-lighter frame
-lower seat
-seat closer to the bars
Mark is right in that the seat will want to end up at about 28" because of the top tube angle. Also, the whole Cruzbike dynamic seems to get a little sweeter as you get the seat closer to the steerer tube (that's been my experience on all of them I've built so far).
However, if you are tall, this frame can work fine for you.
Best,
Doug Burton
Zen MBB Master
Jack should be able to chime in on this one - It's very much like the C-dale he converted - He seems very happy with it.
Best,
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
Its getting up there ... what will be the angle from your centre of gravity to the front wheel contact patch, and if it is steep, how will you go in an emergency stop?
frustration
Making pretty good, but slow headway on my conversion. I'd call it learning basic bike mechanics while I am trying to convert a bike to a Cruzbike!!
In any event, I am stuck on the chainstay fixing bolts....one threads just fine...the other doesn't...I have included a photo ...anyone else experienced this? Sugestions?
Thanks,
David
Making pretty good, but slow headway on my conversion. I'd call it learning basic bike mechanics while I am trying to convert a bike to a Cruzbike!!
In any event, I am stuck on the chainstay fixing bolts....one threads just fine...the other doesn't...I have included a photo ...anyone else experienced this? Sugestions?
Thanks,
David
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
All the washers go INSIDE the U.
Almost there!
ko....I have almost completely assembled the kit, and have questions about the brake set up...seems to be my remaining puzzle.
By reversing the front fork, I of course change the side on which the silver "cradle," for lack of a better word, to slip the V brake cable into. I coul duse some coaching on how to set the brakes up to accomodate this....it has completely baffled me and my quasi-experienced friend helping me today. For instance, the cable now drops straight down to the brake, as opposed to crossing over to "pull" from the righ hand side of the brake assembly.
And while I'm asking, I'm curiosu as to the design rationale to turn the front forks and create a negative rake.
Thanks!!
David
ko....I have almost completely assembled the kit, and have questions about the brake set up...seems to be my remaining puzzle.
By reversing the front fork, I of course change the side on which the silver "cradle," for lack of a better word, to slip the V brake cable into. I coul duse some coaching on how to set the brakes up to accomodate this....it has completely baffled me and my quasi-experienced friend helping me today. For instance, the cable now drops straight down to the brake, as opposed to crossing over to "pull" from the righ hand side of the brake assembly.
And while I'm asking, I'm curiosu as to the design rationale to turn the front forks and create a negative rake.
Thanks!!
David
