T50 - whatcha planning to build.....
- Thread starter ratz
- Start date
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
I'm no bike mechanic, but my preference is to tighten the head bearing stack just enough to remove any play. Since there is a limit to how much that expandable spacer can effectively expand I've tried to to remove as much play as possible before I try and expand it.
To achieve that, I didn't go by the 9 inch instructions for the steerer tube trim on the second bike. Instead I deburred the inside of the short riser at the clamping slot to make sure I could slide it on and off the steerer tube without it binding and then measured how far down it would go for the top of the steerer tube to reach the end of the flared section. Then I measured up from the top of the spacers/dust cover to the length the extension needed and lopped it off there. It was trimmed a little lower than the 9 inches in the instructions but not by much.
This allowed me to get the extension flush and as snug as possible on top of the spacer/cover stack with the boom clamp mount slid all the way down too.
BTW, loosening the bolts on the boom clamp and prying gently with a screw driver just enough to insert a 3.5mm allen wrench handle in the slot will hold the clamp body open just enough to make it easier to slide up and down into position. When you have it where you want it just pull the allen wrench out. It is barely flaring the joint and is not putting much pressure, just holding it slightly open but that little bit of extra room makes everything a lot easier to assemble.
-Eric
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Very much so.
The trick is the grease. I keep fixing bikes with loose head bearing stacks. Every time it's the same thing, not enough grease. Those bearing shoulders or if you prefer the little shelves the bearings sit on. Coat them with enough grease. Pretend your buttering bread, put enough in to get a dirty look from mom. Then it will all compress together nice and tight. The grease is to make the parts fit tightly, not to make to turn. Too light on the grease means too tight on the fasteners and steering that is stiff. Plenty of grease and it will snug right up. Some should ooze out on the frame. Just wipe if off.
Thanks for the lesson.
Looks like I will have to rebuild and try to borrow the head set wrenches again or buy a set of the wrenches.
My problem will be gettting things far enough apart to add grease. I had to use the mallet to get the extension on and even then I couldn't get it all the way down to flush. I have about 1/8 inch of the slot showing above the boom clamp.
Looks like I will have to rebuild and try to borrow the head set wrenches again or buy a set of the wrenches.
My problem will be gettting things far enough apart to add grease. I had to use the mallet to get the extension on and even then I couldn't get it all the way down to flush. I have about 1/8 inch of the slot showing above the boom clamp.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Sounds like Eric is on to something with burs from the slot cut. Probably machined in different groups or with out the knowledge that the clean up is important. That is something that likely will get cleaned up in round two of production.
Try a hair dryer to loosen it up. When it is good and hot shoot wd40 in there and you should be able to loosen. If you need leverage attack your handle bars and stem which make the ultimate leverage.
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
I deburred my extension right off the bat...never considered I should say something about it. 
Any time I come across a slip-fit like this, I run my fingers (gently) around all the surfaces, inside and out and make sure they're clean. If not, I file or sandpaper until they are. Makes them go together much mo' bettah.
Hair dryer is excellent for getting the extension off if you need to. Like Bob said, leave the handlebars on so you have something to pull and twist with.
Any time I come across a slip-fit like this, I run my fingers (gently) around all the surfaces, inside and out and make sure they're clean. If not, I file or sandpaper until they are. Makes them go together much mo' bettah.Hair dryer is excellent for getting the extension off if you need to. Like Bob said, leave the handlebars on so you have something to pull and twist with.
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
Since the clamps just sit on top of the bottom struts, the bottom struts are the ones to trim.
Essentially, you open up the clamps, disassemble (the clamps will just slide off) and trim. Because of the curve in the top struts, the clamps will only go so far into that curve...so you trim the bottom strut halves. I'm not sure how much of the top goes into the bottom but if you want to go as low as is shown, you might have to trim some of the top half as well.
I am probably not going to trim mine...it depends really. I am quite comfy at 45 degrees on my V2/k, so 50 degrees is probably going to be ok.
Parts are coming in for my build. Got BB and sprockets in. Crank should be here today. My LBS has ordered all the parts for my wheel build (Velocity 559 "Blunt" rims, polished, laced to a silver Shimano Alfine 8 disc hub for front, silver Deore disc rear). Should be done in a week or so.
snilard
Guru of hot glue gun
What crank length do you use?
165
As soon as I saw your post about moving the mount location, drilling new holes became my plan. I don't want to cut the seatposts if I don't have too. Drilling holes seems like a much easier task to perform correctly.
defjack
Zen MBB Master
That wheels and tires looks wonderful. I really want to check out the completed version. Can you please share some pics?
It doesn't look like you cut off the approx 2 inches Robert recommended we cut from the headset.
Did you cut it off?
Sorry I meant steerer tube
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
Great headrest, I have one on my Baron. The rods on it are easily 'reconfigured' (bent) so that you can position it anywhere. Nicely flexible when mounted...good shock absorber. I put a lot of miles on mine.
DavidJL
Well-Known Member
I haven't cut the steering tube yet. I am getting ready to do the Emeljay mod to the T50. Will use 2 scooter clamps, a 24" 1.25" OD, 1.00" ID tube (ordered from Online Metals), and a Giant OD2 stem. I want to see if the extra length is useful first. Not planning to take seat angle back into head rest territory at this time; the QX100 is already laid back. I may yet cut the struts a bit if I should change my mind and go 'detta.
