There is a through hole at the top of the fork for holding a mudguard with top bracket.
There are no holes for screws on the lower part of the fork to hold a lower brace.
T50 - whatcha planning to build.....
- Thread starter ratz
- Start date
There is a through hole at the top of the fork for holding a mudguard with top bracket.
There are no holes for screws on the lower part of the fork to hold a lower brace.
snilard
Guru of hot glue gun
Thanks. So it is necessary to use some bracket to hold mudguard. That is not nice on utility bike.
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
No holes...you can look at the pix on the T50 kickstarter page that shows a bike with mudguards. It has a couple of clamps on the fork to hold the mudguard stays. I just received my chrome fenders for my T50 and I'll probably have to come up with some sort of similar system.
Cruzbike Chris
Well-Known Member
Still sourcing components here. Any recommendations for a square taper BB and what width for a 1X11 Q-ring, 145mm crank setup! I have a nearly new Shimano UN55 laying around but thinking this one at 122.5 may be too wide for a single chainring! Thoughts?
McWheels
Off the long run
Velo Orange Fender Stay Mounts. Even with my double-front mash-up, holds position and the mudguards beautifully. The V2k didn't come with such threaded holes either.
Hey, your T-50 build completed? I am really curious how your mavicrous crossride 2" fit, looks and feels like. Please share some photos, if you can.
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Your clearance 5-6mm is when your tire 700 x 28 were pumped up fully like 80 psi? I'm going with 27.5 x 1.5 (650 x 38), which have a smaller Outside diameter than 700 but thicker. I wonder how mine will fit.
58-559 might be 2.25" x 26", right? I think it's the thickest as T-50 can go. Can you take photo and share when you try them on your T-50, as you please?
rx7mark
Guru
Trying to finalize my crank and bottom bracket. Everyone seems to be going with square taper, but I was thinking of going with a RWC 440C outboard bottom bracket, that Ratz recommends, with a Redline Microline 155mm crankset and a narrow wide 42t chainring for a 1x11 setup. I know its not the XD-15 but its half the price.
Anyone see a problem with this combination?
Mark
Anyone see a problem with this combination?
Mark
SlowRoll1950
Member
My initial build is complete-ish. I am still waiting on some parts and installation to say that the build is "complete". But it is functional in the sense that gears (at least half) work and brakes work and nothing is falling off the bike. I have a 1x11 set up with an a single 32T up front and an 11-46T cassette. I am using a trigger shifter. I didn't know I would need extra chain to climb up on the 46T sprocket so I haven't indexed the bigger sprockets while I am waiting for some more 11 speed chain to show up on my front door. I am good with the smaller sprockets just by setting the up the outboard limit on the derailleur. I bought the Avid/Clark CMD-17 disc brake components that Cruzbike listed.
I installed lights and seat pad, made sure the tires were inflated and tried using the bike as a "balance bike" like Cruzbike suggests. It demonstrated that I need to do some fitting on the seat to get into a comfortable balance position. I also need to move the boom out. When I get these done I will be able to try the balance bike exercise again.
But I have learned "a ton" as a newbie builder. I found out that I need more brake cable housing than came in the Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set (Universal). What was left after I cut enough for the front brake left me about a foot short for the rear break. I repurposed some brake cable housing from my old mountain bike to fill the gap. I also repurposed some brake cable for the front brake because the shorter cable in the Shimano kit was a wee bit short for doing an initial installation before tensioning adjustments. Looking at it after the adjustment and trimming excess cable I probably would have gotten by with the shorter cable, but it wan't anything I could know for sure.
The Clark instructions with the brake calipers was pathetic for a newbie builder. But I finally did happen upon some videos and internet posts that let me comprehend the design. But I did have to buy four M6x20mm bolts to used on the frame-bracket connection. The T50 frame was too thick to use the included hardware with the Clark mechanical disc brake (I think they were M6x15mm).
I am still waiting on some hardware from Cruzbike for the Axiom rear rack I ordered. But I have my hands full as it is am in no rush. I also need to install the mirror I purchased and need a bell or horn.
I installed lights and seat pad, made sure the tires were inflated and tried using the bike as a "balance bike" like Cruzbike suggests. It demonstrated that I need to do some fitting on the seat to get into a comfortable balance position. I also need to move the boom out. When I get these done I will be able to try the balance bike exercise again.
But I have learned "a ton" as a newbie builder. I found out that I need more brake cable housing than came in the Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set (Universal). What was left after I cut enough for the front brake left me about a foot short for the rear break. I repurposed some brake cable housing from my old mountain bike to fill the gap. I also repurposed some brake cable for the front brake because the shorter cable in the Shimano kit was a wee bit short for doing an initial installation before tensioning adjustments. Looking at it after the adjustment and trimming excess cable I probably would have gotten by with the shorter cable, but it wan't anything I could know for sure.
The Clark instructions with the brake calipers was pathetic for a newbie builder. But I finally did happen upon some videos and internet posts that let me comprehend the design. But I did have to buy four M6x20mm bolts to used on the frame-bracket connection. The T50 frame was too thick to use the included hardware with the Clark mechanical disc brake (I think they were M6x15mm).
I am still waiting on some hardware from Cruzbike for the Axiom rear rack I ordered. But I have my hands full as it is am in no rush. I also need to install the mirror I purchased and need a bell or horn.
I set up my 1x11 with an external bearing bottom bracket.
I used a race face atlas which has external bearings.
I changed the spacers to move my chainring to about 45mm instead of the nominal 50mm. This put less bend in the chain when on big cog in my 11-46 11 speed cassette.
I am liking the 1x11. It is especially useful to not need to monkey with a front derailleur when shortening the boom for my 11 year old to ride it.
Nice green and good job done! I am also setting up with 1x11 front 32t rear 10-42. Did use 114 link chain? I might need to order 2 sets of chains learning from you. This is my first build too other than I have done some upgrade to my Moulton TSR-9 a couple years back. Wish me luck.
SlowRoll1950
Member
I used a SHIMANO XT/ULTEGRA CN-HG701 11 SPD CHAIN with 116 links. Still 116 having replaced one with a Master Link. Not sure how many links I will need to add to get it on to the 46 T sprocket.
You can get a 120 link SRAM-PC-1130-11-speed-Chain that should work with your 42T sprocket without getting a second chain. If I knew then what I know now I might have bought that one.
SlowRoll1950
Member
Those of you who have not yet started your build I would suggest you consider using the taller steering riser rather than the shorter one. Here is my reasoning and I encourage the experienced builders to chime in if there is a fault in my logic: (1) It is not easy switching out the two risers once one is installed. I have tried the hair dryer trick, but because it is already hot in my garage I am not getting enough of a temp differential on the different parts to make it easy to pull apart. (2) You can always cut down the tube on the taller riser as needed and reinsert the star nut, you can't add length to the shorter rise. (3) If, like me, you don't have any idea how you are going to do a fitting until you have all of the brake levers and shifter levers on, it is easier to shorten cables and housing than it is to replace them once cut, so putting it together "long" is a better strategy than finding out you have to have longer anything.
I measured 15mm clearance with a 44-559. So a 50-559 should fit with at least 6mm clearance.
snilard
Guru of hot glue gun
On top or on sides of tire?
That was from top to bottom of front fork. The clearance to the sides was larger.
I am using Compass Naches Pass tires which are relatively thin. A 2 inch tire will definitely fit in both dimensions, but there won't be much, if any, room for fenders.
I am sure someone has already mounted 2 inch tires. Hopefully, some people with two inch tires can add to the statistical stack here. I don't have a good feel for the variability of this from frame to frame or tire/rim combo to tire/rim combo.
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
I test-mounted the 559 wheel from my V2/k cruzer, which has a 2.1" Schwalbe "Big Apple" tire mounted. Fit was no problem...although I didn't measure the clearances at the time.
