V2 headset play

[brokemyback]

I have a new (used) V2. When I got it, the headset was adjusted “properly” with no perceptible lateral slop. However there was so much rotational friction the bike was almost unrideable! I have many miles on my Silvio, so I know I’m not the problem.

I have tried many different preloads with the same result. To eliminate the rotational friction I must adjust the headset to be pretty loose, with a fair amount of slop (rocking the bike with front brake applied).

Questions:
1. The slop isn’t particularly bothersome to me, but will I hurt the head tube of the frame by riding like this?

2. The headset bearings feel very smooth, no perceptible play or wear. I see one thin shim under the dust cap, so I did a test that removes the dust cap from the stack up - resulting in no improvement of the friction problem. Got any ideas why I get so much rotational friction when I adjust the preload “properly”?

 

[ratz]

Pull the headset apart, remove the space and bearing, etc. Clean everything but the bearings in a sonic cleaning. Get some synthetic grease lub it up and put it back together. If it's still sloppy then the bearing is shot, or the bearing cups were likely crushed by over-tightening the assembly originally or riding it "loose" and wearing them., On a lot of aluminum bike you can replace even the raceway I don't recall what's up with the V2. @Robert Holler would know or could comment if I'm on the wrong trail for this fix.

 

[Robert Holler]

In the Vendetta (and older Silvios) the race is integral to the headset itself - there are no "cups" pressed in - so there is nothing that can be replaced there. While this is cool from a minimalist perspective I prefer old school cups that can be replaced and/or upgraded as things evolve (hence why we can use the Viscoset on the S40 as it has press-in cups)

It is likely that the tension just needs to be set just right - which can be tricky sometimes if the races have worn some. I have done it successfully by adding very thin shims under the top cap on top of the compression ring.

This is a part that a decent bike shop should have - if they don't know what they are find a different place.

Here is a example I just did a random google for "thin headset shims."

Lucky Headset Shims .30mm (5pack)

Lucky Headset Shims allow you to dial in your headset. with so many headset and compression options available on the market today, these Lucky spacers will help you fine tune your headset. Your Welcome!! Sold in packs of 5,

www.luckyscooters.com

 

[brokemyback]

I did this “rocking bearing” test, and the bottom race is definitely bad. The bearing rocks significantly side-to-side, where the front-rear is much tighter. I have a appointment with the bike shop that has a headset reaming/facing tool. I don’t understand how the integral “race” gets worn or misaligned?

 

[brokemyback]

Still waiting for my bike shop to schedule me... I see a lot of asymmetric wear in the chamfers of the head tube. I feel a lot of fore/aft rocking in the lower bearing seat, and side-to-side rocking in the upper chamfer. Adding insult, now it's creaking loudly with every pedal stroke and echoing through the frame tube. squeak, creak, creak, squeak I'm hoping the headset ream/facing tool will clean all this up. What causes this assymetric wear? How does a head set go out-of-round?

 

[ratz]

It's sort of the nature of unthreaded headsets; they are light and very adaptable, but they take a lot of abuse and they aren't locked down like the threaded ones. Hit that pothole hard? feel bad for your headset, Did not do bi-annual bike "tightening/grease" maintenance; feel bad for your headset. Ran, jumped and flopped hard on the bike; feel bad for the headset. Ride in the rain? Feel bad for people in Seattle. Basically, if something's going to wear out, it's the headset or the bottom bracket.

 

[brokemyback]

I persevered, chasing a solution to my headset problem. I bought the Park Tool “reamer” to clean up the 45 degree chamfers. My LBS flaked out, and never produced the cutting tool that they promised to rent to me. So I made my own… using some M18 all-thread, and thrust bearing, some M18 nuts, and a drill bushing. McMaster always comes through.
I was pretty happy with the results. My homemade tool worked just like the park tool in the videos. However… as I was checking my depth of cuts, I found the real problem. The fork crown “race” that sits under the lower headset bearing was missing. I’ve been riding with my fork crown riding directly on the head tube shell! The bearing was not even loaded. What an idiot. No wonder the frame was creaking and groaning. When I swapped forks and chain stays, I failed to notice the missing “race” (more like a fancy washer). So now I have freshly cut bearing seats, and a new lower crown race coming in the mail. I’m expecting some smooth cycling soon.

 

[brokemyback]

Smooth sailing! The crown race arrived today and I got it reassembled. Ahhh. It feels like a new bike! No creaks, no rattles, and best of all...smooth steering! I went around my elbow but I got it fixed. I am super happy!