V20 to Sweden

Apollo

Well-Known Member
Thanks Rats and Apollo for the suggestions and the budget might be a little flexible for good reasons....

The SS RWC BB has about the same price in US as the most expensive Shimano Dura Ace at the bike shop in UK so the big issue for me on the RWC BB is not the upgrade it self..... but with shipping costs and taxes the BB will ends up close to 200 dollars...
Thanks
I totally understand the budget can get difficult if sourcing from multiple vendors; multiple sources compounds the shipping costs. Close to $200 is a steep expense for a BB if that's what it will cost you in the end, and hard to justify unless you do a lot of wet weather riding or racing. If worse comes to worst, you can always use an Ultegra 6700 or Dura-Ace 7900 BB, even the older 105 and Tiagra BBs will work. They're old stock now and can probably be found fairly cheap locally (no shipping), but keep in mind they are of inferior quality and generally you get what you pay for in this industry. You can always upgrade later. Hope everything will work out for your target budget.

i thought you can not get a 165mm crankset for 105 or ultegra 11 speed.
Although not the easiest length to find both the 5800 and 6800 cranks are available down to 165mm. Wish they were produced in even shorter lengths.
 

t.c103

Member
Frame kit showed up today :):):)

have some questions about some components...need to order! .. appreciate some advice...

what type of front derailleur should I choose, clamp or braze on?
The hope bracket, is it the 68/73, 83 or road ?
What kind of derailleur hanger do I need... press fit and Shimano??

Was checking all the parts and when I held the handlebar I got the idea of having TT levers an twist shifters..... is that possible and have someone done that before??
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
1) Braze on.
2) 68 English. 24mm or 24-GXP depending on your crank.
3) derailleur hanger is unique and you get two cruzbike ones in the box of goodies that came with your frame.

You can do TT+Twist but you'll need handle bars with the correct diameter to take the twisters. Specifically 22.2mm in the grip area and 31.8 in the clamp area which is the mountain bike standard. Road bike bars like the ones included are 23.8mm at the grip and 31.8mm in the clamp and there are no twist shifters that fit those.
 
Hey T.C., CONGRATULATIONS
That was a big decision. I have worked in Sweden for 6 months years ago at the SAS Flight Academy at Arlanda, you have most fantastic flat country with not so many hills and lots of woods. I really enjoyed my stay there. Swedish people are very friendly, and they certainly know what to do when they get paid. LOL

I bought my V eighteen months ago and like you was thinking... cheaper the better. But this bike is a pedigree and it does deserve the best. Try to push to the higher end of your envelope.

Shimano Ultegra 6800 is a great value groupset from http://www.fibica.com for $770. I am well pleased with them. Oddly enough at the time I could not get a cranksize of 165mm from Shimano, which I bought and fitted at Xmas. But now its mainstream ... its a must if you are getting the V20. The brakes are really really good. It would be a mistake to put the Shimano 105 on such a fast bike. Some of the Vendetta riders - well it seems most - prefer SRAM. If I were to get a new bike I would have to think twice. SRAM is the best if you want a crank size of less than 165mm. I have put Q Rings on as I like to ride every day and I can recover better using Q Rings than standard.

Hope that helps!

David while this is great advise it typifys my love hate relationship with this forum. We all have expensive tastes :). Yes the V is the Lamborghini of bicycles and it deserves the best, but not all of us have as deep pockets as those on the forum.
105 is a good groupset if that's as far as the budget will stretch but ultegra is worth it if you can.
 

jond

Zen MBB Master
105 is a good groupset if that's as far as the budget will stretch but ultegra is worth it if you can.

yes ultegra mechanical groupset can be had for $750 if you scout around. only 300g heavier than mechanical durace at twice the price. 105 comes in at around $500 and is a very very good groupset too. i prefer the ultegra 11 speed over the 10 speed sram red or 7900 10 speed durace. it is very nice and a good advance over the 10speed ultegra with better brakes etc.

if only money would grow on trees ........
 

t.c103

Member
WIN_20160408_22_16_42_Pro.jpg
The bike is now ready and it ended up slightly different from my original plans.... Took some more time to choose and get the parts and get the Wheels buildt...
Pacenti sl 23 rims with Hope rs mono hubs, 28 spokes on both wheels. Tyres tubeless pro ones 28mm.
Group 2*11 with 165 mm crankarms. All Components From the sram rival 22 range.... also cut the boom 60 mm.
So far so good ... testriding tomorrow ! :)
 

RAR

Well-Known Member
T C it looks good. Great job on the build. Now go out and have some fun , you earned it for waiting so long !
 

t.c103

Member
Hi

Some updates…
The bike is running well and I’m happy that I finally decided to go for a new Cruzbike...
One of my goals with this bike was to do a full series of brevets this year... I am not so well trained so the goal this time with the brevets was not the speed, only to do the distances..

So now I have done the 200, 300 and 400 km and this last weekend my goal was to do the last 600. But I failed and quit with only 100 km more to go.... was not able to pedal anymore. The problem is that the knees start too tell me bad things already after about 100 km and then it’s getting worse and worse…

One reason are maybe myself…. Need more practise. But I also think that I have not adjusted the bike properly so appreciate some advice about that..

I like the vendetta a lot but I do not race so I will try to do some mods to make it a little more comfortable for my own riding goals. I do not find the right position in the seat and also like to have more support for the lower part of my back… and off course, the neckrest tells about the road condition…


So my next step is:
Try a thor seat and probably mount it the way Rick did.
That also gives the opportunity to raise the seat just a few degrees to get a better view to enjoy the surroundings more on the countryside and have better control of traffic.

Try to adjust the bike for happier knees….

and off course get ready for the next 600 ….
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
TC... Not sure what type of pedals you have. I just changed my cleats for my look pedals to give me a better float and my knees are better for this. I know that many use the speedplay frogs as they are very easy to clip in and out of and have a better float. I have been told that the sram 11 speed crank can be used with the Shimano 11 speed groupset...

If my knees still played up after the pedal update I was going to change the crank to sram 155mm.

Congratulations on doing the Brevets.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
If you knee bends past 90 degrees on the max. upstroke, then change to 153 mm cranks, to reduce the pain, and improve power!

But if you are a gnome, like Larry with a 40.5" X seam, I would go for 140 mm as he did with great success!
 

t.c103

Member
Thanks for advise..
I have not been able to do any cykling this last week ... just letting my knees rest but this coming weekend I will try some miles again..
Still waiting for my new thorseat and a ventiseat and for the knees I orderd speedplay frogs.... hope that would help...
please dont ask about budget...:rolleyes:

I appricciate some more advice about getting the boomlength right?? take some time to test because of the front gear,,,,
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
please dont ask about budget...:rolleyes:

I appricciate some more advice about getting the boomlength right?? take some time to test because of the front gear,,,,
Yeah, tell me about it :D:D. The budget starts at this...but always ends at that...

Possibly take some pics and post them one with the leg fully extend and one with knee fully bent. Also give us your existing crank arm length. Sometimes we can get you in the ballpark. But I find minimal tweaks are the the best.

This will be pretty much different for a lot folks to find their happy boom adjustment. For me personally, I like (or better phrased, my knees like) my leg to almost be fully extend with ever so slight bend at knee, then if the hamstrings hurt or feel sore after or during a ride, I will adjust boom in a little at a time until back of knees feel better. I adjust pretty much opposite of the suggested way. What I've found to be true for myself at least, is if boom is adjusted out to far the back of knees will hurt, in to much front of knees will hurt - this is generalized. I'm at 150mm cranks arms now and haven't had knee pain yet (knock on wood). However knee pain can come from other prob elms too. For instance, changing from Shimano SPD to 100% free floating Frogs helped me.
 
Top