Vendetta Di2 Users

scabinetguy

Well-Known Member
Parts

Bikette had another simpler solution to the compact chain ring problem. He is going to cut the riser tube, cut off 1/4" and splice it back together. This doesn't solve the Di2 problem but if you're not going to do Di2 why not?

On mine I used epoxy to fasten the hanger to the stem. I made up a couple of test samples to test the strength of the bond, can't get it to move even with vise grips. Apparently the Di2 front derailleur creates a lot more torque than manual shifters.
Someday Bob will work up the nerve....Steve
 

Wannabe

Well-Known Member
When the funds are available,

When the funds are available, I want to get with you Bob for much needed info. I definitely want to add that to my bike.

So very nice!
 

oumed

New Member
Di2 conversion has been completed

Thanks to Bob (ratz) and others on this forum my Di2 conversion has been successfully completed. Also, special thanks to Steve (scabinetguy) for his special contribution to the conversion. You rock!

I started night before last (Friday night) and worked into the wee hours of the morning. After a few winks of sleep I went on a group ride yesterday morning (Saturday). Shifting is a dream. Ultegra brakes are awesome too.

I've ridden the Vendetta 4 times total, once now with Di2 and keep changing the overall fit and setup but I'm close to getting it all dialed in. The speed envelope is amazing. When the motor gets all tuned up (hee hee) during the Spring it should be a rocket. Right now its a jet!



 
Sorry to bring up an old thread. I am just looking for a photo of the FD mounting plate mentioned in early posts. I want to mount an R8050 FD to my V20, so curious how best to do this.

Cheers!
 

Martha Farquar

New Member
Hi, I know this is an old thread but I've recently been doing a groupset upgrade of my v20 (2020 - stock build). I have a few comments and things I cannot easily resolve. I have installed a new 105 Di2 groupset. The brakes are mounted using an IS to flat mount adaptor from AS Solutions. Without adding any spacers or other adaptors, this is good for 160mm rotors front and back. I have the battery installed in the boom, held in place with some closed cell foam. In the early posts someone mentions threading the wire from the RD through the fork. My fork has no holes at all - did you drill some holes for it? At the moment I'm just using some cable ties to strap the wire at a few points along the stay that runs up to the BB, any better suggestions about how to do this?
Whilst threading the rear brake hose, it dropped from the threading wire and I haven't been able to thread it through the frame. Any tricks on hpw to thread something through? It seems impossible to catch a cable poked up from the bottom, I never had a problem with regular DF frames. For now I just routed it outside the frame but it's not too pretty.
I had no problems with the rear wheel and for the front wheel, I can use the supplied wheelset which has both a rim brake track and 6 hole disc mount, but this is not very aero. I've tried to use a wheel from one of my other wheelsets but have a few problems - I wondered if any of you can offer some advice. I tried to use a regular disk brake drive wheel which has a standard 135mm dropout. I use an axle adaptor for a QR which I use successfully on other bikes. The forks will flex enough so I can mount the wheel but I still have some problems with it. The cassette has quite a space from the frame and the cassette and the outer part of the hub can slide so I can't index the gears. How do you solve this? Put some kind of space in there? Where to get it. With the wider spacing and the fat forks and derailleur mount, the existing QR is not long enough. I managed to botch something from a special skewer from a cargo system, but it's not great - only holding a few threads on the nut. Is there some place I can find an extra long skewer for this? How do the rest of you manage to mount a regular disk brake wheel to the frame - I've seen many v20 photos, so it must be possible I guess. I guess you are not all getting custom wheels. TIA for any help.
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
Hi, I know this is an old thread but I've recently been doing a groupset upgrade of my v20 (2020 - stock build). I have a few comments and things I cannot easily resolve. I have installed a new 105 Di2 groupset. The brakes are mounted using an IS to flat mount adaptor from AS Solutions. Without adding any spacers or other adaptors, this is good for 160mm rotors front and back. I have the battery installed in the boom, held in place with some closed cell foam. In the early posts someone mentions threading the wire from the RD through the fork. My fork has no holes at all - did you drill some holes for it? At the moment I'm just using some cable ties to strap the wire at a few points along the stay that runs up to the BB, any better suggestions about how to do this?
Whilst threading the rear brake hose, it dropped from the threading wire and I haven't been able to thread it through the frame. Any tricks on hpw to thread something through? It seems impossible to catch a cable poked up from the bottom, I never had a problem with regular DF frames. For now I just routed it outside the frame but it's not too pretty.
I had no problems with the rear wheel and for the front wheel, I can use the supplied wheelset which has both a rim brake track and 6 hole disc mount, but this is not very aero. I've tried to use a wheel from one of my other wheelsets but have a few problems - I wondered if any of you can offer some advice. I tried to use a regular disk brake drive wheel which has a standard 135mm dropout. I use an axle adaptor for a QR which I use successfully on other bikes. The forks will flex enough so I can mount the wheel but I still have some problems with it. The cassette has quite a space from the frame and the cassette and the outer part of the hub can slide so I can't index the gears. How do you solve this? Put some kind of space in there? Where to get it. With the wider spacing and the fat forks and derailleur mount, the existing QR is not long enough. I managed to botch something from a special skewer from a cargo system, but it's not great - only holding a few threads on the nut. Is there some place I can find an extra long skewer for this? How do the rest of you manage to mount a regular disk brake wheel to the frame - I've seen many v20 photos, so it must be possible I guess. I guess you are not all getting custom wheels. TIA for any help.

The V20C fork has internal cabling so that is where the holes come from. The aluminum forks do not. Under ANY and ALL circumstances please please please - never ever ever ever ever drill holes in a fork or frame - on any bike of any brand - either for access for wiring or any other reason.
 

Martha Farquar

New Member
I
The V20C fork has internal cabling so that is where the holes come from. The aluminum forks do not. Under ANY and ALL circumstances please please please - never ever ever ever ever drill holes in a fork or frame - on any bike of any brand - either for access for wiring or any other reason.
t's not the V20c. Early in the thread someone mentions putting the wire inside the fork. How is this done? Did the early edition forks have a hole?
 

chicorider

Zen MBB Master
With the wider spacing and the fat forks and derailleur mount, the existing QR is not long enough. I managed to botch something from a special skewer from a cargo system, but it's not great - only holding a few threads on the nut. Is there some place I can find an extra long skewer for this?
I had a similar issue finding a QR for my S30, with 135mm hub spacing (the same setup that you describe). The Hope Fatsno QR skewer, 141mm length is perfect, with the threads reaching just to the end of the nut, as they should. The mechanism is smooth and nicely built.

The stock CB skewer was long enough, but the outwardly curved shape of the QR lever prevented my indoor wheel-on trainer from clamping well enough to keep the bike from ejecting from the trainer if I didn't keep my form still enough while pedaling. The Hope lever has an inward curve that lets the lever nestle into the trainer clamp, keeping everything secure.

I'm sorry this doesn't help with your larger Di2 project, but I hope it will help you check at least one small thing off the list.
 

cpml123

Zen MBB Master
I had a similar issue finding a QR for my S30, with 135mm hub spacing (the same setup that you describe). The Hope Fatsno QR skewer, 141mm length is perfect, with the threads reaching just to the end of the nut, as they should. The mechanism is smooth and nicely built.

The stock CB skewer was long enough, but the outwardly curved shape of the QR lever prevented my indoor wheel-on trainer from clamping well enough to keep the bike from ejecting from the trainer if I didn't keep my form still enough while pedaling. The Hope lever has an inward curve that lets the lever nestle into the trainer clamp, keeping everything secure.

I'm sorry this doesn't help with your larger Di2 project, but I hope it will help you check at least one small thing off the list.
Look for a tandem bike qr skewer. I found one a few years ago to work with a wheel on trainer.
 
I have Di2 on my V20. I used the weep hole, but I cut up DI2 cables and made a custim wiring harness, so I did not need to push the connectors through the holes...just the wires. I think I may have had to drill out one of the holes somewhere, but I did this a couple years ago now so can;t recall.

I run the external removable battery. I have it mounted to the bottom of the boom. near the bars. I have a few spare batteries, so this option is good for me, as I can carry a spare battery if needed, or swap a battery in a minute if I find it is flat when I am about to ride. I run mostly 67770 stuff, but have the R8000 deraillers for 11X2. It works really well.
 
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