Vendetta V20 Build diary 2016

[RojoRacing]

Your exactly right, if I hadn't build a dozen more mtbs then road bikes I probably would have never doubted the process of my included parts. The fact that rotor sent me the completely wrong parts the first time didn't help ether.

That explanation make perfect sense to me apart from the fact that I only got one wave washer but I highly doubt I'll need two. How hard would it have been to just include that simple set of instructions on a sleeve of paper instead of a dozen stickers.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

How hard would it have been to just include that simple set of instructions on a sleeve of paper instead of a dozen stickers.

I believe they simply forgot Jason. I received instructions when I ordered mine, they were clear and simple, unlike SRAM instructions. If my memory serves me right, the wave goes on (**edited**) drive side, only one is needed.

 

[ratz]

The fact that rotor sent me the completely wrong parts the first time didn't help ether.

This could be on me for not being more clear on the topic.... did you get yours from http://www.enduroforkseals.com ? Aka Real World cycling? or Rotor through a source you know? To avoid problems I go to RWC because they kit up the parts and provide surprisingly fast support. They are usually really good about including the instructions and even the spacers for MTB and other small parts (I have them in my parts bin still). That's part of the reason I go through them to avoid the the problems (I create enough of my own).

the wave goes on non-drive side, only one is needed.

Wave goes on drive Side. you can use a second one and double them up to remove slop in the crank.

Which reminds me I could use some spares I lost at least one working in the shop this winter; darn gremlins.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Wave goes on drive Side.

You are correct Bob, my memory failed me. Any i wanted to double check and make sure I installed the BB correctly, and guess what I found the instructions:

 

[RojoRacing]

Well if it's not one thing it's another. The damn wave washers ID only measures 23.5mm in its uncompressed state so I can't slide it over the crank axel over to the drive side.

This is total BS

 

[RojoRacing]

Ok so I overestimated the springiness of the wave washer and after completely compressing it in my vise it only rebounded to about half of what it was so now it'll slide over. So I finally have the XD-15 BB installed and its spinning smoothly with no play. Doesn't spin a dozen times like in the videos but I can tell it's very smooth and still very new. I'll ipdate after a few hundred miles with how it free spins after break-in.

 

[ratz]

Ok so I overestimated the springiness of the wave washer and after completely compressing it in my vise it only rebounded to about half of what it was so now it'll slide over. So I finally have the XD-15 BB installed and its spinning smoothly with no play. Doesn't spin a dozen times like in the videos but I can tell it's very smooth and still very new. I'll ipdate after a few hundred miles with how it free spins after break-in.

Also make sure you have the chain stay clamps loosened ¼ turn from hand snug, I had mine over tightened until Robert set me straight

 

[super slim]

Also make sure you have the chain stay clamps loosened ¼ turn from hand snug, I had mine over tightened until Robert set me straight

What are the details about the clamping load of the chain stay clamps?
I assumed the clamps are meant to be stationary and the CF+ titanium chain stay flex (On a Silvio of course,) NOT a vendetta!

 

[ratz]

What are the details about the clamping load of the chain stay clamps?
I assumed the clamps are meant to be stationary and the CF+ titanium chain stay flex (On a Silvio of course,) NOT a vendetta!

There are no details. They need to be tight enough that the front end doesn't move or shift under load. But it's super easy to over tighten and then the clamping force is great than the stiffness of the BB cups; Thus your bearing raceways warp and the cranks don't spin free. It takes surprisingly little force on the clamps to keep things in place. Hand tight/snug and back them off a quarter turn.

 

[Robert Holler]

What ratz said. I go just to snug and then 1/4 to 1/2 turn but no more.

 

[VenRiderGuy]

It takes surprisingly little force on the clamps to keep things in place. Hand tight/snug and back them off a quarter turn

When I do this on my V2.0, the clamp screws seem to be too loose; doesn't leave me with a good feeling. Of course, "hand tight/snug" can vary quite a bit from person to person.

Is there a difference between the V2.0 and the V20 in regards to the tightening of the clamps?

Thanks.

 

[LarryOz]

Is there a difference between the V2.0 and the V20 in regards to the tightening of the clamps?

In my experience no - I believe the chain-stay is basically the same design.
You know it's too tight when the BB bearings bind and your cranks won't spin freely.
My first Silvio it was more obvious and I felt like you just described.

 

[Robert Holler]

This area is one where we have never been able to really come up with a "spec" (That word is a joke in the bike industry anyway and I am not a fan) as there are too many variables.

Not all brands cups are the same, and not all have even the same shape, diameter, or thickness - clamping an FSA MegaExo is not the same as clamping a SRAM GXP as the outer shells are different profiles - so likely different forces are put onto the bearings.

All I do know is that the 1/4 to 1/2 turn in my experience has been enough to keep things steady without overdoing it. There is a real variation here but it is what it is.

As a bike mechanic I can tell you that it is far more common for people to WAY over-tighten things than the other way around. Often times to the point of weakening the very item they are tightening and leading to breakage.

Robert

 

[ratz]

This area is one where we have never been able to really come up with a "spec" (That word is a joke in the bike industry anyway and I am not a fan) as there are too many variables.

Not all brands cups are the same, and not all have even the same shape, diameter, or thickness - clamping an FSA MegaExo is not the same as clamping a SRAM GXP as the outer shells are different profiles - so likely different forces are put onto the bearings.

All I do know is that the 1/4 to 1/2 turn in my experience has been enough to keep things steady without overdoing it. There is a real variation here but it is what it is.

As a bike mechanic I can tell you that it is far more common for people to WAY over-tighten things than the other way around. Often times to the point of weakening the very item they are tightening and leading to breakage.

Robert

Omg the over tighten is so true. It has taken me a long time to lean to gob the grease on and just go snug and let the grease do its work. When it comes to the clamps. Here is what your choice are. Be too loose and notice post ride that they shifted out of position. As long as you inspect after the ride no damage or harm done. Over tighten them and ride for 3 weeks waste tons of watts and destroy your bearings.

Fwiw it is worth I am working with Chris at RWC By email. By next week I hope to have four part # for cruzbikers to order that with get you a GXP or Shimano kit with everything you need for a CB upgrade. This will be the high end one and the mid tier one. No chromium parts because the nose is just simply prone to water collection that high in the air and none of us want rust. I will make a sticky post for it when the time comes. With luck and enough interest over time we might even justify a price break but at the least we can take some of the guess work out

Since these are consistent we should also be able toget some torque specs from the tribe as a whole. All unofficial etc but

 

[MrSteve]

Thumbs-up.

As an ex-motorcycle mechanic who was self-taught on bicycles, I totally agree with Mr. Holler.
You're probably doing it wrong.
Probably.
Maybe not... but, yeah.

My bike fasteners are all tightened by feel.

Yesterday, just for grins, I popped the chain off of the big rings, held it away from the ring and crank assembly and
and gave them a spin.
Yup.
Still spins ... better than new.
The standard SRAM stuff has broken in nicely.

 

[Niko]

I am just about to order a Vendetta frameset for myself. A few questions. Are the headset bearings included, if not which type do i need to buy ? Do i need mm or inch allen keys for the bolts in the set ?

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Are the headset bearings included

Yes. Metric Allen will work.

 

[trapdoor2]

Awesome build diary, Ratz! I've got a Vendetta on order so putting it all together should now be a piece of cake.

One question: Which XD-15 BB? I'll be using a Rotor 3D24 Road Compact crankset. You linked ( http://enduroforkseals.com/id240.html ) to the XD-15 but no mention (or I was just blinded by the great photos) of whether you recommend their "road" or a "mountain" BB. I assumed "road" but figured I'd better ask.

 

[ratz]

Awesome build diary, Ratz! I've got a Vendetta on order so putting it all together should now be a piece of cake.

One question: Which XD-15 BB? I'll be using a Rotor 3D24 Road Compact crankset. You linked ( http://enduroforkseals.com/id240.html ) to the XD-15 but no mention (or I was just blinded by the great photos) of whether you recommend their "road" or a "mountain" BB. I assumed "road" but figured I'd better ask.

Glad you like it; it's an easy build and the goal was to demystify the process.

I have not used the 3D24 myself but it's a good looking crank. It appears it should fit. The 3D+ did not because of the 30mm spindle. The 3D did work so that's why I suspect the 3D24 will too; just expect it to be a little more difficult to get your Front Derailleur dialed in; aka don't install on a grumpy day, the Rotor "loading" process just seems like it's not going to work and then it just does; it's really tempting to screw the silver end cap on way too tight. Follow the directions closely. If the crank doesn't spin freely you have it two tight. All washers and spacers go on the drive side; and I would recommend using two wave washers

Your link is correct that's the 24x24 version. You want the Road one. It comes with different instructions and spacers appropriate for road applications. Chris will take good care of you and just let them know how you found them, and mention that I said you will need two wave washer for the install. http://enduroforkseals.com/id240.html

 

[1happyreader]

Very low calorie (I spent 12 weeks on just 980cal/day), exercise and lifestyle training (stop focusing on food, you fat SOB!). Still, I plan on adopting the Primal stuff as we wind down on this program.

Heh trapdoor2 ,
Congratulations on your weight loss.
My preferred handle would have be "been285" which tells you I did not quite get into the 300lb range.
I lost 80 lbs on calorie reduction but had to fight with my cravings.
yo-yoed back up to 250 and decided to do a HFLC? high fat/low carb type diet.
while I am not a zealot preacher of HFLC I have been amazed at the lack of CRAVINGS on 1000-1200 calories.
hope you keep up your journey to a lighter you on a shiny new cruzbike!

later,, bye