jond
Zen MBB Master
used to be velocity rims pretty sure. Ex Aussie moved to America.
Vosadrian's V20 Journey - Australia
- Thread starter Bentsoup
- Start date
used to be velocity rims pretty sure. Ex Aussie moved to America.
jond
Zen MBB Master
No no no of course not.? Does anybody? Who are they and what for. .? Wisteria and churches please. Wide roads. Country charm. Nice wine. Cycling capital of Australia heavily debated. Festival town. Home of david. Coopers beer.
and then there are the really really good things. No safe clean natural drinking water. Radiation sickness. Dust and more dust. Nothing empty dry dusty space. Really old thinking people. Time warp 1972. Unemployed people. Boredom. Worst climate ever. Canned food sales through the roof. No wonder paul Kelly won’t sing Adelaide any more. A country town masquerading itself as a city on the end of a nsw sewer. Nobody goes Deep South they leave leave leave. Tasmania and south Australia compete for the population dregs. Mmmmm crow for dinner tonight. Nah Two crows. That’s fair. Here’s a recent pic of south Australia and its major road.
Are the velocity rims tubeless compatible? Any details on them? I went to the velocity website and they seem to have lots of options!
I have Velocity Aileron wheels with tubeless tires on.
Were they wheels supplied with a V20 in a complete build?
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
Jumping with my two-cents worth on the wheels. I was where you are about five or six years ago. While learning to ride the V, I pummeled a few aluminum front wheels to death because of pilot error. Use the current aluminum wheels to get through that phase, then put your good wheels on. The V is amazing, but you cannot lift the front wheel over anything (uneven bridge expansions, potholes, driveway entries...). Hitting any of those at the speeds that the V typically carries can make a front wheel say "ooof!" in a bad way. You kind of develop a feel for it, which I know is not very specific, but I'd wait until you sense that feel before putting the good wheels on. Having said all that, I have been riding the same pair of NOX carbon wheels for the past four years now, without a hitch--a combination of carbon-is-good, and pilot experience. Time and miles; miles and time. It's totally worth it.
Yeah, I am leaning to use the current wheels as training wheels for 90% of riding and the good wheels for when I want to go for it. Having said that, I have become quite attached to the tubeless tyres I run on my good wheels having only had to stop once in 15,000kms to put a tube in. Would love to run those tyres on these wheels, but I just don't know if they are tubeless ready wheels which is why I am asking here.
I watched a youtube on the new Vittoria air liners:
These seem ideal for a Vendetta which is not so easy to remove wheels to repair on the side of the road. So basically some tubeless ready wheels with some Conti GP5000-TL tyres and some of those airliners. You would rarely get a puncture and in the rare occurence when you did, you could just ride home and fix it there. Looks like a great solution and means you don;t have to stop for a puncture ever and you can stop carrying spare tubes/CO2/pump etc.
I watched a youtube on the new Vittoria air liners:
Sorry I don't know. They came with my 2017 S40. Since you mentioned Velocity wheels, I am guessing they might be similar.
jond
Zen MBB Master
hey vossi mate pull the tyre and tube off. Check rim tape. How many penetration holes are there. One for each spoke plus valve no not tubeless ready but you can go ghetto tubeless. Or just valve penetration. Yep tubeless compatible double wall should be good to go. Should have some info on rim as to model type.
Interesting development with tyre liner tech. Safety major draw card plus flat rideable plus tubeless flat protection and speed gain. but still not high distance compatible.
Then again a slashed tyre never ends well far from home. Risk we take. Not that I’ve ridden distances in an eon either.
I find out what my wheels are. Kinlin rims which are not tubeless ready. So I will be sticking to tubes for these wheels. I will get them trued and use them as my main wheels. I am not willing to try ghetto tubeless. I can just buy another wheelset of similar quality that is tubeless ready for not that much $$$.
I was chatting with Robert about wheels. He recommends high spoke count wheels. My good wheels on my DF are Roval CL-50s. There are light weight 50mm deep carbon wheels that are tubeless ready and I have really enjoyed them on my DF. They are 125kg system weight rated, but only have 21 drive wheel spokes (16 non-driven wheel). I have given them a fair bit on the DF (inclluding jumping gutters etc.) with no issue. But am I giving them a death sentence as a 70-75kg rider using them on the V20?
That tyre liner technology is a game changer for tubeless.... it basically means you need a catastrophic failure event that you could not have repaired before anyway to prevent you riding home. I agree it is not ideal for high distance rides where you may need to ride >100kms on the liners... but for anyone who is happy to terminate a ride and make a B-line for home and rides within 50km of home all the time, it makes tubeless pretty much fool proof and you should never have to stop for a puncture again.
I was chatting with Robert about wheels. He recommends high spoke count wheels. My good wheels on my DF are Roval CL-50s. There are light weight 50mm deep carbon wheels that are tubeless ready and I have really enjoyed them on my DF. They are 125kg system weight rated, but only have 21 drive wheel spokes (16 non-driven wheel). I have given them a fair bit on the DF (inclluding jumping gutters etc.) with no issue. But am I giving them a death sentence as a 70-75kg rider using them on the V20?
That tyre liner technology is a game changer for tubeless.... it basically means you need a catastrophic failure event that you could not have repaired before anyway to prevent you riding home. I agree it is not ideal for high distance rides where you may need to ride >100kms on the liners... but for anyone who is happy to terminate a ride and make a B-line for home and rides within 50km of home all the time, it makes tubeless pretty much fool proof and you should never have to stop for a puncture again.
jond
Zen MBB Master
I personally would not run with 16 spokes on well really any bike nowadays. Vendetta puts you at 50/50 weight distribution. A broken spoke on your 16/front rear on vendetta might lead to overloaded spokes despite 50 mm carbon rim.
Certainly puts my front wheel climbing wheelset on my df into the unrideable category such is the large deflection on the scandium rim. Limp home mode caliper open.
my enve 6:7 powertap wheelset is 24 spoke one broken spoke small true issue rode home slowly.
I also have a 50 mm carbon wheel set tubeless ready 28 spoke no issues. Chinese wheelset 18 months old no problems at all. Yoleo brand. Both spoke counts on both brand carbon rims are front and rear. Enve was almost four times price and that was 2013 purchase.
im 81 kg six one for reference.
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Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
If that tire liner tech is available here soon then I will probably get it. I had a front blow out on my DF bike at the bottom of a downhill doing over 50kph that miraculously stayed on and I could get to a stop. If it would have been in a twisty bit I probably wouldn't be here to write this. Not only does it seem to help keep the tire on which saves my noggin, it also saves my wheel from asphalt damage. Tech isnt cheap, but I am tired of saying "I wish I would have ____" after the fact.
I'm not really concerned with having to get an uber to get home if I break a spoke. I've only broken a spoke once in my >60,oookm cycling history. That was on a near new wheel (high spoke count training wheel) that went on to do many kms with no further issue. It seems to me that once broken in spokes are pretty reliable for lighter riders.
One thing to consider with the bent is that you can't avoid hitting something as easily... so wheel impacts are more common and that could cause wheel issues more often.
To be honest, I am more worried about rim damage than breaking spokes. I can call an uber and get home and repair a broken spoke fairly cheaply. If I hit something sharp and hard with the rim and crack it, I lose an expensive wheelset. Probably this applies to any deep carbon rim regardless of spoke count.
I agree on the tyre liners....
One thing to consider with the bent is that you can't avoid hitting something as easily... so wheel impacts are more common and that could cause wheel issues more often.
To be honest, I am more worried about rim damage than breaking spokes. I can call an uber and get home and repair a broken spoke fairly cheaply. If I hit something sharp and hard with the rim and crack it, I lose an expensive wheelset. Probably this applies to any deep carbon rim regardless of spoke count.
I agree on the tyre liners....
jond
Zen MBB Master
16 spokes radial pattern on rear of vendetta equals a lot of flexion beyond standard front wheel on a df. I personally would not be worried about carbon rim which is super strong but worried about catastrophic failure of spokes when railing an imperfect corner at high speed. Those sixteen spokes are tensioned evenly very stiffy stiff stiff.tech talk love it. High c on the bed flute stiff. Not a lot of give. My opinion only . And I’m a bald headed conservative old fart checking his super account too often
I did however try very briefly a 16 spoke rear wheel . Ultra light scandium rim mentioned before. Radial pattern. It was like a noodle on the rear of the vendetta and was removed after 1 klm.
an Uber will run when they see your bleeding body and weirdo bike
I did however try very briefly a 16 spoke rear wheel . Ultra light scandium rim mentioned before. Radial pattern. It was like a noodle on the rear of the vendetta and was removed after 1 klm.
an Uber will run when they see your bleeding body and weirdo bike
jond
Zen MBB Master
Is there anywhere I can find out about the wheel forces on a Vendetta vs a standard DF road bike? I can see that the drive wheel may cop a bit more because it is steering and driving, but on the other hand it has less weight on it since the drive wheel on a DF bike gets mostly more than 50% weight. The non drive wheel on a bent has on average more weight, but it does not have to steer. When I go fast on a techncial descent on my DF, I am braking hard and turning into hairpins with full brake load with weight transfer forward onto front wheel. Is this situation less demanding than on a Vendetta rear wheel? The thought of a front wheel failure on a DF seems worse from an injury perspective than a rear wheel failure on a V20. In terms of cornering loads... I expect the way the wheel is loaded would be similar for similar lean angles and corner speeds?
super slim
Zen MBB Master
Correction Jond is 121 kg and 5'1"
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
Just as a frame of reference on spoke count: I am 5'4" and weigh 130lbs, or 59kg. I have two sets of NOX 36mm carbon rims, 24 spoke drive wheel, 20 spoke non-drive wheel, laced in a 2-cross pattern with bladed spokes. I've had one pair on my V for five years, and the other pair on my S30 for four years, and both sets have seen plenty of hard riding, with the kinds of impacts you can expect on a recumbent. I haven't had a single issue with either pair, and they have remained true and round the whole time. Carbon rims made a huge difference; a munched a few aluminum rims early on with the V.
That said, being a lightweight has always allowed me to get away with such things on a bike. If I were heavier, I would probably build my wheels up a bit more. The trick is finding that personal balance between performance and strength, rather than just assuming that recumbents need bombproof wheels.
That said, being a lightweight has always allowed me to get away with such things on a bike. If I were heavier, I would probably build my wheels up a bit more. The trick is finding that personal balance between performance and strength, rather than just assuming that recumbents need bombproof wheels.
