What would you do?

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

I use a Rotor 3d+ with 155mm cranks on my V20. Works well with the DI2 derailleur.
If you go this route, be sure you get the correct bottom bracket. The crank shaft is 30mm dia. Many cranks are 24mm.
Also check out Bikesmith. I have no personal experience with them but they have a great reputation.

Thanks!!! Here's what I find when I look them up:

ALDHU24 cranks - 155mm Crank Length - 24mm Axel Width

I'll get in touch with them learn what chainrings to get.

Oval Round

 

[super slim]

Thanks!!! Here's what I find when I look them up:

ALDHU24 cranks - 155mm Crank Length - 24mm Axel Width

I'll get in touch with them learn what chainrings to get.

Oval Round

http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/apex.html
$229 for Sram Apex GXP double 110 mm BCD with 34 and 50 teeth, 137.5 to 153 mm crank length.
I would go Q rings as it "feels" funny when riding a friend's bike with round rings, and it cheap to buy from Bikesmith!

 

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/apex.html
$229 for Sram Apex GXP double 110 mm BCD with 34 and 50 teeth, 137.5 to 153 mm crank length.
I would go Q rings as it "feels" funny when riding a friend's bike with round rings, and it cheap to buy from Bikesmith!

Thanks I looked them up too, and am waiting on them answer a few questions.


I'm also considering buying the CB flag, does anyone commute with the flag? And, do you remove the flag when at work, or leave it on the bike. The reason I ask this, I always cover my bike when parking it at work. There's no place to park it indoors.

Also, any one built a 11 speed S40 with 26" wheels and disc?

 

[paco1961]

I use a Rotor 3d+ with 155mm cranks on my V20. Works well with the DI2 derailleur.
If you go this route, be sure you get the correct bottom bracket. The crank shaft is 30mm dia. Many cranks are 24mm.
Also check out Bikesmith. I have no personal experience with them but they have a great reputation.

I went the Bikesmith Fabrications route for my 155 crank set and never regretted it. He is a wealth of information and easy to work with.

 

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

I went the Bikesmith Fabrications route for my 155 crank set and never regretted it. He is a wealth of information and easy to work with.

Do you have Di2 installed on your bike? I've not been able to talk to him yet. My S40 frameset is on it's way. I'll hold off on buying the 165mm Ultregra crankset till then.

 

[Mathew Fy]

I can vouch for John Cobb’s hot forged cranksets. They work perfectly on the V20. However, I don’t know what’s going on with the company. The old website is gone, and this new one is selling the goods. It looks like the carbon cranks are limited in size.
https://speedandcomfort.com/collections/cranks/products/alloy-short-cranks

There’s a discussion here:
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/cobb-155mm-crank-should-there-be-play-when-installed.12143/

 

[benphyr]

... 26" - disc (I'm only 5'7" and believe it will be easier learning on 26". I'll get 700C set later)

See https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/rear-rack-for-s30-for-a-trunk-bag.11924/page-2#post-153165 for @super slim Silvio with 26" wheels. Seems like a good idea to me. Lower seat height is definitely easier, especially when learning.

 

[paco1961]

Do you have Di2 installed on your bike? I've not been able to talk to him yet. My S40 frameset is on it's way. I'll hold off on buying the 165mm Ultregra crankset till then.

Sram rival mechanical disc/11 speed. I must say I’m not overly impressed w the shifting. I miss my old Ultegra 6800 that I used to build up all my DFs. Would go that route in a flash if it could take a 36 tooth cassette. I find it to be the best bang for buck in the industry.

 

[rx7mark]

Thanks I looked them up too, and am waiting on them answer a few questions.


Also, any one built a 11 speed S40 with 26" wheels and disc?

When building my T50, I wanted the same wheelset you are looking for. Eventually concluded if I wanted 26inch, wider TCS certified tubeless rim, and quality disc hubs, I would have to either have custom wheels built, or build them myself.

In the end I built my own from WTB Frequency Team i25 32 hole rims, these are heavy duty 25mm inside width rims. They have other widths and a lighter version KOM rim also.

I chose DT swiss 350 hubs and double tapered Saipan spokes and brass nipples.

If you dont want to tackle it youself, check with local bike shops in your area for a wheel builder. But I learned a lot doing it myself and now can service and maintain them.

Mark

 

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

When building my T50, I wanted the same wheelset you are looking for. Eventually concluded if I wanted 26inch, wider TCS certified tubeless rim, and quality disc hubs, I would have to either have custom wheels built, or build them myself.

In the end I built my own from WTB Frequency Team i25 32 hole rims, these are heavy duty 25mm inside width rims. They have other widths and a lighter version KOM rim also.

I chose DT swiss 350 hubs and double tapered Saipan spokes and brass nipples.

If you dont want to tackle it youself, check with local bike shops in your area for a wheel builder. But I learned a lot doing it myself and now can service and maintain them.

Mark

Hi Mark, after spending hours googling, I decided to go a Trek superstore near me. The guy there pretty much set me on the same path as you.
I was willing to tackle the frame build, but the shop gave me a good price on the wheel build and bike build. Decided to let the shop build my SuperSweetS40.
Thanks for the input, I now know I made the right decision.

 

[chicorider]

It sounds like you are already on your way, but for what it';s worth, I built 27.5 in disc wheels for my S40 and put 38c Panaracer Gravel Kings on them, running them tubeless. They've been great. Also, I have 160mm cranks on my three CBs, but got to wondering if 155mm would be better for me (short answer: no). The reason I bring this up is that I bought a pair of Bikesmith-modified SRAM Apex cranks at 155mm for $99.00 on ebay--lightly used, without rings (which was great because I wanted to use my own rings). I rode them long enough to decide that 160mm is right for me (and I'm short, at 5'4"). So I have a nice pair of SRAM Apex 155mm crank arms collecting dust here. If you're still looking, let me know.

Building up a bike is exciting. Enjoy!

 

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

It sounds like you are already on your way, but for what it';s worth, I built 27.5 in disc wheels for my S40 and put 38c Panaracer Gravel Kings on them, running them tubeless. They've been great. Also, I have 160mm cranks on my three CBs, but got to wondering if 155mm would be better for me (short answer: no). The reason I bring this up is that I bought a pair of Bikesmith-modified SRAM Apex cranks at 155mm for $99.00 on ebay--lightly used, without rings (which was great because I wanted to use my own rings). I rode them long enough to decide that 160mm is right for me (and I'm short, at 5'4"). So I have a nice pair of SRAM Apex 155mm crank arms collecting dust here. If you're still looking, let me know.

Building up a bike is exciting. Enjoy!

Thanks, I'd like to take you up on the cranks. Let me know you want to make it happen.

... I thought I knew what parts a bicycle has
I've googled more stuff in the last few weeks regarding bike components, than all things combined, in the last few months.
It's been fun, and frustrating. I'm going to keep things simple, and have gone with Ultegra 165mm cranks for now. I'll do some experimenting, after I've completed a 300-400 miles on the S40. I'll use the cranks then.
Can't wait to put it all together, take it to a trail near me

 

[anotherbrian]

I've got several Di2 road bikes and recumbents, but chose to build my S40 with mechanical shifters and brakes. I'm using Dura Ace brifters, a 52/34 Ultegra crankset (52/36 with a 34 swapped on), and an 11-40 cassette.

How are you going to route the Di2 wiring? Put it all in the boom? Traditionally the battery would be in the seat tube or the seatpost with the Junction B. You could put that into the boom when you build the frame, but expect you'll need to drill some holes for the cables (Shimano has a couple size grommets available).

I'd suggest 160mm discs if you ride on big hills. Only the raciest of road bikes are using 140mm discs these days, and with the terminal velocity you can get on an S40 I think the few extra grams of a bigger disc are worth the greater thermal area.

I would also consider even lower gearing than your 34/34. If you're fit, that should be good enough for 6% grades, but anything steeper than that and you'll need to grunt it out. Especially with 165mm cranks that will lower your torque. I'm in pretty good shape (and 180-185lbs and I still use my 34/40 on many rides. At 15%+ I get wheel slippage, but I just pray those are short enough to muscle through (though just a little bit of wet roads brings the slipping on sooner).

And my S40 was my first FWD/MBB, though I had lots of experience on RWD recumbents, so I wouldn't sweat not starting with a T50.

 

[rx7mark]

I would also consider even lower gearing than your 34/34. If you're fit, that should be good enough for 6% grades, but anything steeper than that and you'll need to grunt it out. Especially with 165mm cranks that will lower your torque. I'm in pretty good shape (and 180-185lbs and I still use my 34/40 on many rides. At 15%+ I get wheel slippage, but I just pray those are short enough to muscle through (though just a little bit of wet roads brings the slipping on sooner).

I concur with Brian on this, I started with a 1x11, with a 11-42 cassette and a 42t chain ring, but could not climb one particular hill with a 15+% grade that was a quarter mile long on my daily commute. I ended up walking part way up, or pausing to take a break part way up to let my heart rate recover, before continuing.

I rebuilt my cassette to 11-49T with a Wolf kit, and the resulting 42/49 gearing was enough to muscle up that hill without having to stop. This gearing is almost the same as what Brian recommended above. What you proposed would be fine for mild hills or flat areas, so it really depends on what the terrain is like in your area?

Mark

 

[paco1961]

I am running 46/36 up front and 11-34 rear on my S40. I also find 15% to be about it before front wheel slip sets in. I’m surprised @anotherbrian could get an 18-tooth span to work up front. Shimano is usually tough to get to take more than a 16-tooth jump. And completely agree on the 160 rotors. I originally tried 140s and maybe it’s my 195 lbs but it was a little scary. 160s are perfect.

 

[cpml123]

I've got several Di2 road bikes and recumbents, but chose to build my S40 with mechanical shifters and brakes. I'm using Dura Ace brifters, a 52/34 Ultegra crankset (52/36 with a 34 swapped on), and an 11-40 cassette.

How are you going to route the Di2 wiring? Put it all in the boom? Traditionally the battery would be in the seat tube or the seatpost with the Junction B. You could put that into the boom when you build the frame, but expect you'll need to drill some holes for the cables (Shimano has a couple size grommets available).

I'd suggest 160mm discs if you ride on big hills. Only the raciest of road bikes are using 140mm discs these days, and with the terminal velocity you can get on an S40 I think the few extra grams of a bigger disc are worth the greater thermal area.

I would also consider even lower gearing than your 34/34. If you're fit, that should be good enough for 6% grades, but anything steeper than that and you'll need to grunt it out. Especially with 165mm cranks that will lower your torque. I'm in pretty good shape (and 180-185lbs and I still use my 34/40 on many rides. At 15%+ I get wheel slippage, but I just pray those are short enough to muscle through (though just a little bit of wet roads brings the slipping on sooner).

And my S40 was my first FWD/MBB, though I had lots of experience on RWD recumbents, so I wouldn't sweat not starting with a T50.

I might have asked this before. How is your 52/34 shifting? My 50/34 is pretty clunky and drops the chain sometimes going from 34 to 50.

 

[paco1961]

Several threads here about problematic FD shifting on S40. It is an issue w location of the FD mounting point. But as long as you shift slowly and keep some tension on the chain it usually shifts fine.

 

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

I've got several Di2 road bikes and recumbents, but chose to build my S40 with mechanical shifters and brakes. I'm using Dura Ace brifters, a 52/34 Ultegra crankset (52/36 with a 34 swapped on), and an 11-40 cassette.

How are you going to route the Di2 wiring? Put it all in the boom? Traditionally the battery would be in the seat tube or the seatpost with the Junction B. You could put that into the boom when you build the frame, but expect you'll need to drill some holes for the cables (Shimano has a couple size grommets available).

I'd suggest 160mm discs if you ride on big hills. Only the raciest of road bikes are using 140mm discs these days, and with the terminal velocity you can get on an S40 I think the few extra grams of a bigger disc are worth the greater thermal area.

I would also consider even lower gearing than your 34/34. If you're fit, that should be good enough for 6% grades, but anything steeper than that and you'll need to grunt it out. Especially with 165mm cranks that will lower your torque. I'm in pretty good shape (and 180-185lbs and I still use my 34/40 on many rides. At 15%+ I get wheel slippage, but I just pray those are short enough to muscle through (though just a little bit of wet roads brings the slipping on sooner).

And my S40 was my first FWD/MBB, though I had lots of experience on RWD recumbents, so I wouldn't sweat not starting with a T50.

The S40 frameset will be coming in tomorrow, 4/25, and I have all the components ready to be installed. The battery install, and wanting to maximize internal routing is the main concern. I did think of the boom, but didn't know about the grommets. I bought a Shimano bottle cage battery mount, just don't know if it will work.
Having bought the Di2 groupset already, not sure if I can get a smaller chanirings that'll work with Di2. Googling it now. I'll have 26" wheels, so not sure if 34/34 is easier on smaller wheels.
I'm not in great shape but am wanting to use my commutes to get healthier. There's a shower at work so don't care if I sweat. The climb is on my way back home, and if I have to walk the bike, while I get healthier and stronger, so be it.
My biggest concern is that my commute is on mostly 55mph roads. Luckily there are sidewalks for the most part.

 

[cpml123]

I think it's due to the big gap between FD and the ring. Others have tried to adjust it but to no avail.

 

[Rishi@Cruzbike]

I concur with Brian on this, I started with a 1x11, with a 11-42 cassette and a 42t chain ring, but could not climb one particular hill with a 15+% grade that was a quarter mile long on my daily commute. I ended up walking part way up, or pausing to take a break part way up to let my heart rate recover, before continuing.

I rebuilt my cassette to 11-49T with a Wolf kit, and the resulting 42/49 gearing was enough to muscle up that hill without having to stop. This gearing is almost the same as what Brian recommended above. What you proposed would be fine for mild hills or flat areas, so it really depends on what the terrain is like in your area?

Mark

The more I read about the gearing of my groupset, the more I'm regretting it San Marcos CA, is quite hilly and I really should have thought it thru better.
I am considering getting the SRAM 12 speed 10-50 with a 42t chainring (if something like this combination exists).

Sigh..... I'll go over to the Trek store near me and see what they can do. I should be able to return the DI2.

I really appreciate all the great information and the experiences being shared here.