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This is the picture that you show to people who ask the question, "Why do you ride those bikes?" Super cool.

Larry, Right when the video starts it says "Lenght" of Sweeden. Just a heads up. :cool:

The other issue that I have (this is a general complaint/rant that I have about bike industry nerds who design this stuff) is that the reality of "good shifting" pretty much started to tank when they went beyond 10 speeds, and even then the older 9 speeds shifted much better. So what you are...

The through axle rear is 142mm An offset ring will move the chain more inwards closer to the centerline of the cranks. https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/how-to-find-the-correct-chainring-for-your-mountain-bike-with-sram-transmission I have never found much worth to the hard and fast...

I would have to do some digging, but I do not think so at that time. Look on the rim to see if it has "TCC or TC" somewhere on it - some rims put that on as an indicator of "tubeless compatible"

The latest one does, though I cannot say which valve works best on that particular rim, and I am not sure of the rim tape is "tubeless ready" - but the rim itself is.

The correct offset isn't specific to the bike per-se but depends on what rings, etc are on there. Looking at the pic it would seem an offset ring is needed.... on the stock setup it works but it's a close call, and even then if the cassette is swapped to a bigger one the large cog has a tough...

The chain line should ideally put the ring/rings right close to the center of the cassette. When changing cranks or rings - often a new BB is possibly needed or a ring (in the case of a single) that has an offset - most are ), 3mm, or even 6mm offset depending on the bike and what might be...

This has become my favorite stand as well. It works really well. Particularly since these were custom made for us by special order (the company had actually stopped making them entirely and made for us at request - which took a LONG time haha) and the wheels were upgraded a bit from the original...

It sounds like the front DR has a low limit screw that is pushing the chain over too far causing it to over-shift the small ring. This chain guard from K-Edge might work well - it would mimic the type of guard that is built into the SRAM FD's...

I think that the CF front is notably calmer on rough surfaces like bad chip seal, for example.

The front CF parts of the V20C are very very tough structurally - trust me. I tried very hard to shatter a boom and slider back when we were doing the samples by hitting them against metal surfaces like they were baseball bats. No shatters. They are also lighter than the aluminum fronts and...

Hub widths are standard 100mm (front hub width) for our rear wheel, 142mm rear hub width for the drive wheel. Through axles are 12mm - our axle for the front fork is longer than a standard through axle though because of the need to pass through the stays - but in any conversion you would be...

Send an email to Katie at support@cruzbike.com we have the washers. :emoji_thumbsup:

Check for the washers on the pivot clamp bolt, and make sure that sleeve is greased. This is in my experience the most common area for creaking where the washers are not correct:

That should not be a problem at all. In fact that used to be the size before. Robert

The end is a T40? Hmm I haven't seen that. I heave only ever seen the regular 6mm Allen version.

We do have those :-) its a combo 6mm Allen/T25 for the rotors and caliper bolts

Hey there - if you send an email to Katie at the support@cruzbike.com email she can set you up with a new hanger and invoice you for one easily - we have those in stock they just aren't listed on the site. Robert

If you get hold of Bart at Ventist I imagine he can make one the exact size you need if he doesn't have some around that would work. He is awesome.