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You guys; I leave you unattended for a few months and you go and torture a defenseless spammer like that.

Ha! I can go to this one.

You are over the thresholds now you shouldn't be running into problems anymore if you are let me know.

Anyone that wants to follow larry to the finish line here's the live feed Track Larry "Beep Beep" Oslund: https://www.quarqnet.com/track/NTE0/KzE5NTI2ODE5OTU1/eaz-1253a23465e7ce2b1806 (link expires in 24 hours)

Very true, I made several all slightly different and they all work the drawing is actually the average of several that worked to split the difference

I used the radial arm saw and a really good blade.

QXL 50/38 works like butter with Etap

Well this sucks. We are tapping out from Sebring too. Works been a beast; and after 8 days of missed training and other up coming conflicts; we won't be making the trip down this years event fitness won't justify the week of travel, time away from the office and the expenses. So time to refocus...

Time to get the bike tuned up for the FL

Ditto ken 5 hours saddle time. 1 break for 5 minutes to fix a bad master link on the chain. Keto/caffine powered effort

make sure it's a 24mm one and grease.

Chain Ring side, the non drive side on a GXP is self aligning self torquing. If should be noted if you are using a $30 BB don't bother. If you are using a $125-200 BB don't skip it.

Missed this thread; bikes loose 10% of original value per year on average regardless of condition if they have original parts for the first 5 years. Priced like that they usually sell fast. After 5 years it depends on what they are and if they've been rebuilt, repainted etc. High end wheels...

The wave washer is for bearing life it preloads the torque so the bearings stay in the races; goes on the crank side. You don't need it but your BB will wear our sooner without it

Yeah using a made for a trainer tire is a must if you do anything serious that probably doesn't get mentioned enough. Get the tires specifically made for that they last 2-3 years.

Sounds like you need to add a wave-washer to get the proper torque. 24mm http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id435.html These are also helpful 24mm x 1mm http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id433.html

In more cases if you put "4" on that bolt that leads the crank arm; that's equal to "2" on a Upright.

Cool. The nut exists for compatibility with 9, 10 and 11 speed, it's mostly a cheap adjustable "end stop" very confusing if you don't know it's suppose to be loose. A real wheel doesn't have such problems.

More likely the reuse of an existing Ti fork they had access to.

Remove the cassette. There's a hex nut that holds the free hub to the unit. Dollars to Donuts it's too tight. It should be less then finger tight. You can tell it's too tight if the cassette doesn't back spin at all. Reinstall everything and do an advanced spin down.