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You might try moving your seat back, and shortening the slider tube a bit. Be warned, f you move it really far back, you'll need to lean forward on starts because of less weight on the front (drive) wheel. When I was starting out, I tried extreme back, and extreme forward. Now I have it just...

I wonder if we could get a frame/fork kit with steerer about 15 inches longer? I kind of want to mount my pivot clamp at handlebar level and use a zero reach stem attached to the top slider tube. I was always curious why an extension tube was chosen instead? Wouldn't a tall steerer in the fork...

That's how I set mine up. I'm also using flat bars, but that's just my preference. My theory is that you need equal leverage between arms and legs. The handlebars being wider than the cranks, and having your arms at their most optimal for leverage seems to balance the leverage from the legs on...

I find external barings much easier. And much lighter! Light weight is nice when it's at the end of a lever. ;)

When I tried out my Sofrider when I was buying, it was set up such that my elbows were very bent. This really decreased the leverage I could produce. I looked at arm position for the higher-end bikes, and decided that was best. So I Installed a longer stem so my arms at rest had about a 10%...

Knowing your penchant for experimenting, you might keep those Quests around just because they may have greater tire clearance in the forks. If they're 559 quests, anyway.

This bike is just screaming for a Silvio/Vendeatta front-end! That would give tire clearance and an adjustable seat, high-performance bike.

Might be bent drive wheel, but looks fine, otherwise. Check the front fork alignment carefully, but could be a great deal.

Good luck of the day. I was in the Goodwill yesterday and came across a set of brand-new Specialized Awol 29er sealed-bearing wheels. With a brand new SRAM NX 10-42 cassette. $30.00. I figured out why they were in the Goodwill when I got them home. The tiny retaining wire that holds the palls...

Thank you Tim! :) That is just the ticket. I'm hoping to get some 29/700c disc only wheels installed.

Thanks Doug! That would very helpful. I just don't know the proper angle and offset to use.

I don't have it taken apart right now, but did a week ago. The shock was not moving. Inside there were 4 set screws. Two flush-mounted ones about halfway along the steerer and then two more right above the flush mounted ones. These second ones has slightly raised head, but not high enough to...

I guess that would be a "T30".

Anyone have the measurements already for making a disc adaptor to bolt onto Sofrider dropout? Or an old adaptor that they don't need anymore? Mine is a Sofrider 2. I think the dropouts never changed though.

Woohoo! First T50 seat mod! :) It really is a modder's dream frame kit.

Silvio/Vendeatta front-end should be appearing on a T50 in 5..4..3......... ;)

Great to see it all put together. Very nice! It looks like the existing seat brace could be shortened up for a greater lean-back , but it would chop off the rack mount eyelets. I'm sure someone will do just that, or make entirely new seat struts soon.

I actually got my Craigslist Sofrider the day before they started. So I learned to ride it in those few days. I'm riding in full-on traffic now, and practicing no-hands.

In fact, I would prefer the steering tube be twice as tall. I would much prefer to use it directly instead of the extension tube. The pivot clamp needs a larger diameter to clamp to, but could easily be shimmed. Starting to think about upgrading from my recent Sofrider purchase. ;)

Don't they use this one now? http://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/adjustable_spacer_-_6547 This kind of part in unfamiliar for many people, as it is not that commonly used. It goes right under the great big clamp. You set the bottom part with the set screw (don't be an animal on it)...