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You should just go ahead and purchase the new set of clamps and bolts. Both sides are likely compromised from really uneven tightening that caused the break. Also check that the handlebar clamps are evenly clamped. You should have the same small gap at each bolt between the plates. EDIT: Make...

I picked up some "spin" shoes. They are basically just velcro closure running shoes that have an SPD recess. The recess is deep enough that my cleats do not "clack" on floors. Super good for walking like other running shoes, plus my feet stay on the pedals.

Another option, if you want to keep the current mounting hardware, would be to just replace the spring with an aluminum tube. If you find one the proper internal diameter, and not to thin-walled.

I found some cable pull conversion adapters. I'll try that first.

So I am facing an issue that maybe someone can help with. My T50 is set up with regular old mountain bike disc brake callipers. So these calipers expect a 15mm cable pull. I am testing out using some Sensah SRX Pro brifters. Since they are road/gravel (for drop bars) they have a road brake...

Those Goldix are the same ones I got. But I went with 140mm. My legs are kind of short for my height. But same feeling. It just rotates smoother and spins up so fast! :)

So much this! Hank was a trooper and it looked super cool. Remember most GCN viewers are only going to shop for a recumbent if upright bikes become unfeasible for them in some way. They will remember the cool looking, fast recumbent that Hank rode. Especially because there was both honesty and...

I got the Goldix 140mm's about a month ago and find them quite good on my Emeljaye'd T-50. My right knee no longer ever feels sore from pushing-off from a start in too high a gear. Better ergonomics all-around for me. I went with a 44 tooth direct mount chainring, rather than a spider. One day...

Thanks Robert. :)

Like this one...

I think i have bent my hanger, and need to know which one to replace it with. I can bend it back, but just replacing it might be a better idea. Thanks.

The Soma Gator has about the widest flair with deepest drop too, that I have seen. https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/gator-handlebar

Did you get a shock pump with your Kind RR1? You will need to pump it up more.

You can also start with a string and a vacuum cleaner. Put the vacuum on the exit hole and feed the string in the origin hole. Then pull the cable through tied to the string.

Another option would be to to remove the ferrule, thread the tube through the frame, and replace the ferrule.

Here in the US it would be a better bet to go with these on Amazon. Better securing method as well to avoid any shearing issues. Unfortunate name on these ones though. ;)...

The lower "idler" pulley is the lower jockey wheel on a regular derailleur. The upper is for suspension to reduce pedal kickback from the high pivot.

Putting a smaller rear wheel while keeping the 26 inch front wheel will give much worse wheel flop. The bike is built around having same size wheels.

It looks like your hubs have removable end caps. This means there is probably through-axle end caps available for those hubs. Check on the hub manufacturer's website.

Try putting your other foot forward when you coast. Do you veer the other way? I find that a forward foot can cause a turn away from it sometimes. Try keeping your feet at a neutral position.