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Try moving the seat bottom forward about an inch, then using the upper holes on the rear bracket to drop the back of the seat down a little. That should give about the same back angle with the nose up just a little.

I had ther original aluminum seat, but have since mounted an old Rans seat. But with the original seat, I found having the nose up a bit really helped the sliding forward issue. So do try the other mounting position. The limit on leaning the seat further back is the inner legs of the brace...

Can you post a pick of drivetrain in the lowest gear? Is the cage of the derailleur pointing straight forward, or do you still get some chain wrap around the pulleys? It may be you need another link-or-two of chain. You will be gaining that by going to the 40 tooth as well.

This is very true. You notice it a lot more when one arm has to do all the slight compensations that are normally split between both arms.

Check this post. Might be just what you need. https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/softride-v2-frame.16747/

You should just go ahead and purchase the new set of clamps and bolts. Both sides are likely compromised from really uneven tightening that caused the break. Also check that the handlebar clamps are evenly clamped. You should have the same small gap at each bolt between the plates. EDIT: Make...

I picked up some "spin" shoes. They are basically just velcro closure running shoes that have an SPD recess. The recess is deep enough that my cleats do not "clack" on floors. Super good for walking like other running shoes, plus my feet stay on the pedals.

Another option, if you want to keep the current mounting hardware, would be to just replace the spring with an aluminum tube. If you find one the proper internal diameter, and not to thin-walled.

I found some cable pull conversion adapters. I'll try that first.

So I am facing an issue that maybe someone can help with. My T50 is set up with regular old mountain bike disc brake callipers. So these calipers expect a 15mm cable pull. I am testing out using some Sensah SRX Pro brifters. Since they are road/gravel (for drop bars) they have a road brake...

Those Goldix are the same ones I got. But I went with 140mm. My legs are kind of short for my height. But same feeling. It just rotates smoother and spins up so fast! :)

So much this! Hank was a trooper and it looked super cool. Remember most GCN viewers are only going to shop for a recumbent if upright bikes become unfeasible for them in some way. They will remember the cool looking, fast recumbent that Hank rode. Especially because there was both honesty and...

I got the Goldix 140mm's about a month ago and find them quite good on my Emeljaye'd T-50. My right knee no longer ever feels sore from pushing-off from a start in too high a gear. Better ergonomics all-around for me. I went with a 44 tooth direct mount chainring, rather than a spider. One day...

Thanks Robert. :)

Like this one...

I think i have bent my hanger, and need to know which one to replace it with. I can bend it back, but just replacing it might be a better idea. Thanks.

The Soma Gator has about the widest flair with deepest drop too, that I have seen. https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/gator-handlebar

Did you get a shock pump with your Kind RR1? You will need to pump it up more.

You can also start with a string and a vacuum cleaner. Put the vacuum on the exit hole and feed the string in the origin hole. Then pull the cable through tied to the string.

Another option would be to to remove the ferrule, thread the tube through the frame, and replace the ferrule.