Chain WAXing (yes it's that easy) - and other mysteries of this art!

[Emeljay]

I'm not a power user but since my first bicycle in '64 I rode more days than not, and had similar 'maintenance program' that it sounds like you had. I used 10-30 oil from the tool shed oil can. Did clean the chain off every now and then by removing it and swishing it around in a can of gasoline, but usually just added oil to the grime on the chain.

Many years went by. Then broke my fork doing wheelies so took it to a bike shop, an along with the fork I was told that the chain should be replaced. Had the chain replaced along with the gears that the worn out chain had wore out. Then the bike felt brand new! Was smoother and easier to pedal as well as faster so I became a convert to the need to replace the chain!

Only recently have I tried waxing my chain from reading about it on this forum, and I now find that that I am a waxvert!

Before I started waxing my chain (this sounds dirty!) with the dust in the desert around Phoenix, Arizona (it is really dusty!), my chains not only were messy (really dirty!), and only lasted about 3000 miles. Now I don't know how many miles I can ride these waxed chains because I just started waxing. But my chains are much cleaner, and don't mess things up!

 

[RojoRacing]

I started waxing with a new chain and probably have at least over 1500 miles so far, no time to check the actual mileage. I just checked my chain length with my park tool chain wear tool and it still barely fits on at the zero setting which is how they are when brand new. 0-.25 on the is new chain .25-.5 is a good used chain and .75-1.0 needs to be replaced. This chain is going to last me forever assuming my alloy chain rings don't wear out too fast.

Everyone should have the $15 chain gauge in their toolbox.

 

[Emeljay]

Yea, my waxed chain also seems to be lasting more miles.

I bought a chain checker before I started waxing and it helped me to be more consistent as to when I replaced my chain. And to find out that for where I live and ride and with my chain maintenance that I need to plan to replace my chain sometime shortly after 3000 miles.


Before the cc2 I eye-balled how the chain fit around the chain ring. If the chain, when tight around the chainring, was not riding in the bottom of the trough between the teeth, but up on the side of the teeth, then it was time to replace the chain. Otherwise the sides of the chainring teeth would wear down and the whole bicycle transmission would start to drag. This is what happened to my first bicycle where I had to not only replace the chain, but also the gears.

 

[super slim]

I'm not a power user but since my first bicycle in '64 I rode more days than not, and had similar 'maintenance program' that it sounds like you had. I used 10-30 oil from the tool shed oil can. Did clean the chain off every now and then by removing it and swishing it around in a can of gasoline, but usually just added oil to the grime on the chain.

Many years went by. Then broke my fork doing wheelies so took it to a bike shop, an along with the fork I was told that the chain should be replaced. Had the chain replaced along with the gears that the worn out chain had wore out. Then the bike felt brand new! Was smoother and easier to pedal as well as faster so I became a convert to the need to replace the chain!

Only recently have I tried waxing my chain from reading about it on this forum, and I now find that that I am a waxvert!

Before I started waxing my chain (this sounds dirty!) with the dust in the desert around Phoenix, Arizona (it is really dusty!), my chains not only were messy (really dirty!), and only lasted about 3000 miles. Now I don't know how many miles I can ride these waxed chains because I just started waxing. But my chains are much cleaner, and don't mess things up!

Dear Mr WaxVert, the more and more converts there are, is tearing me away from my chain brush, and Silicone dry lube!!!

 

[Bill K]

5900 miles on the original chain and the Park chain wear tool shows less than .75 so it is probably only 1/2 worn out.
And I am very low tech when it comes to waxing the chain. I just dip it in melted candle wax about once a month and let it sit for 5 minutes.
No ultrasonic cleaner, no scrubbing the chain in solvent.
The chain stays soooo clean!

 

[RojoRacing]

5900 miles on the original chain and the Park chain wear tool shows less than .75 so it is probably only 1/2 worn out.
And I am very low tech when it comes to waxing the chain. I just dip it in melted candle wax about once a month and let it sit for 5 minutes.
No ultrasonic cleaner, no scrubbing the chain in solvent.
The chain stays soooo clean!

Did you not ever stripe clean the chain originally before the first waxing?

I have yet to clean my chain since it's been waxed. All I do is blow it off with compressed air and dip it again.

 

[Bill K]

Did you not ever stripe clean the chain originally before the first waxing?

I did scrub the chain before I waxed it the first time. I used a bike cleaning brush and citrus based cleaner. I forgot about that!
Probably did not get all of the oil out of the inside of the chain. So far it doesn't seem to matter.

 

[LarryOz]

Did you not ever stripe clean the chain originally before the first waxing?

I have yet to clean my chain since it's been waxed. All I do is blow it off with compressed air and dip it again.

That is all I ever do too - I have never stripped it clean again. I get about 10K miles out of a chain before it needs replacing.
I think that other thing that possibly helps is that I don't really do anything "really" powerful - that is not much above 700watts, and if that for really short bursts.
In reality I probably do 90% of my riding under 250 watts, so that also probably helps the chain life too.
....
But like Jason said, everyone should own a tool - You test you chain, and when it fails - get a new one - strip it- and dip it!

 

[hoyden]

To be sure I completely understand what I need to buy for a chain, on Silvio I counted 58 links with outside plates. I compute that corresponds to a 116 link chain.

Does that sound in the ballpark for size?

The LBS has 116 link Shimano Ultegra 6701 10-Speed Chain. Is this an appropriate choice?

I have an ultrasonic cleaner and need to get the wax, and then I am off and running.

 

[RojoRacing]

To be sure I completely understand what I need to buy for a chain, on Silvio I counted 58 links with outside plates. I compute that corresponds to a 116 link chain.

Does that sound in the ballpark for size?

The LBS has 116 link Shimano Ultegra 6701 10-Speed Chain. Is this an appropriate choice?

I have an ultrasonic cleaner and need to get the wax, and then I am off and running.

If you get a Shimano chain you'll also have to buy a 10s quick link separately so you can remove and wax it again in the future. I'd recommend a KMC chain first or if not it stock then get a SRAM chain instead, both come with quick links.

 

[hoyden]

The point is it will depend on your gearing not the bike.

I won't be changing my gearing, so based on the current configuration, I wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking something when I counted 58 links with outside plates and doubled that to get 116 link chain.

I'd recommend a KMC chain first or if not it stock then get a SRAM chain instead, both come with quick links.

I see the SRAM 1091 chain is available at my LBS. I will follow up.

 

[ratz]

I won't be changing my gearing, so based on the current configuration, I wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking something when I counted 58 links with outside plates and doubled that to get 116 link chain.

Go here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
Scroll down to chain length. Use that method to figure out how long the chain should be it always works.

It will be very rare for you to be to get by with just 1 chain if that chain is the stock 116, the needed length is usually 121 - 130, at least in my travels.

 

[RojoRacing]

If your current chain is 116 then a 116 chain will work just as well. Like ratz said, it seems odd that you'd get away with a single standard chain, I suspect you counted wrong.

Also I never cut my new chain based on counting the number of links. I always take both chains and lay them both out next to each other and confirm the total length to avoid a mistake while counting so many links.

 

[hoyden]

It will be very rare for you to be to get by with just 1 chain if that chain is the stock 116, the needed length is usually 121 - 130, at least in my travels.

I appreciate your observation. I counted three times but that doesn't mean I would bet the farm on my count. My original chain was too long and it kept sucking up on the main chain ring until I had my LBS take out 3 or 4 links.

I always take both chains and lay them both out next to each other and confirm the total length to avoid a mistake while counting so many links.

The LBS suggested doing this and I will. I had a sneaking suspicion this chain business was turning out too pat.

Before I take the old chain off I want to check it with my chain gauge that ought to arrive in a day or so and then lay out both chains. If the lengths check out then I will nuke them both in the ultrasonic cleaner and do the wax deal. In the meantime, it's too nice a day not to go out for a bit of a ride.

 

[RojoRacing]

Waxing isn't hard but if you want to spend the extra time playing with it, do your old chain first and get a feel for the process or just do them both.

 

[hoyden]

Got the chain gauge today. The old chain clocks out exactly half way between 0.5 and 0.75, let's round it off to 0.3141592654 * 2. It means the old chain still has some life left in her. When my wax arrives on Saturday I will verify the chain length, nuke and wax both chains and run the old one a bit longer. As of today I have 4,670 miles since new. Status updates to follow.

 

[RojoRacing]

Never measure a freshly waxed chain before riding for a good 20 mins to break in the wax. Seems obvious but I figured I'd say it anyways.

 

[DavidJL]

Received my ultrasonic cleaner today and cleaned a chain that has been waxed. Used Simple Green mixed with water. Now waiting to receive 1 pound packet of Molten Speed Wax. From now on out, I intend to clean the chain before dunking, and also to use a crock pot to melt the wax. I do want to keep this as simple as I can. The Molten Speed Wax instructions are for those who want to save ever last watt. Am hoping the chain can last much longer before needing waxing.

 

[hoyden]

Wax delivered yesterday so I got an early start on the task. By unanimous consent in the Hoyden household I was allowed to use the newly remodeled kitchen to set up shop to wax the chain since the workbench in the basement is totally filled with clutter due to the displacement of things caused by the remodeling and because I am neat and orderly challenged.

I cleaned the old and new chains per the molten website instructions but when I checked the old chain for wear it now clocked in at 0.75 and I decided not to wax the old chain. The waxing proceeded without issue and I did not spill or destroy anything. I hung the chain in the basement, cleaned the little chain wheels, cogs, and rings on the bike, and and went off to do other things. Late this afternoon I got home and mounted the chain on the bike. The chain seems to work; I was able to shift through all the gears and I observed some wax flakes being shed as I worked the chain.

What a difference being able to handle the chain without being slimed. Tomorrow I will take Silvio 30 out for a test ride.

Thanks to all who have contributed their experience to this thread. Six months ago I was just on the verge of discovering Cruzbike and now I have waxed my first chain. Is there a reliable way to know when the chain needs rewax?

 

[hoyden]

Oh, the 116 link chain was the correct size. I cannot explain why my chain is this short, but it is.