Getting Off the Fence
- Thread starter GetBent
- Start date
BikeCollector
New Member
Thank you for your front light attachment idea! I think that is a very clever solution. I had experimented with various different computer mounts bolted to the holes in the bottom bracket but none of them worked really well. Currently I use a small computer mount attached to the FD stem which in turn carries the mounting bracket for a battery light (see photo) but it is really hard to adjust the position of the light mounting bracket correctly and tighten everything sufficiently to keep the front light from shaking loose. Your idea is much better, I´ll try to make it work on my WC as well
BikeCollector
New Member
I am not an expert on the "V", so far only tinkering with the idea of getting one, but could you use a curved slider along with that shorter chain stay to bring the handlebar further down again?
Anyway, I wish you good progress with your recovery. That incident that broke your ankle was really bad luck!
paco1961
Zen MBB Master
A little Locktite blue on the bolts will help
The rain is back, so I am back to riding the "V" on the Wahoo Kickr Snap. Good thing, it turns out that it is not hard to flip a trike on dry pavement....
I have been using the free videos on Kinomap. One of them is a 6.1 mile flat ride around Central Park in New York, which closely approximates my "speed" ride in real life. In real life, I would pedal 7 miles out to a 6 mile loop, where I would go as fast as I could. Virtually no traffic, typically, the only obstacles are a rolley-polley black lab that likes to curl up and sleep in the middle of the road and the marauding pack of killer Pomeranians. So far, I am 1.4 mph faster using Kinomap than in real life. I suppose the extra speed is due to no wind in the house.
I have been using the free videos on Kinomap. One of them is a 6.1 mile flat ride around Central Park in New York, which closely approximates my "speed" ride in real life. In real life, I would pedal 7 miles out to a 6 mile loop, where I would go as fast as I could. Virtually no traffic, typically, the only obstacles are a rolley-polley black lab that likes to curl up and sleep in the middle of the road and the marauding pack of killer Pomeranians. So far, I am 1.4 mph faster using Kinomap than in real life. I suppose the extra speed is due to no wind in the house.
So the law of untended consequences strikes again.
I got the shorter chain stay installed. A couple of minor easily corrected issues, but the kicker is that I keep bumping the inner side of my right knee on the front brake. I am using Shimano Ultegra. I think the solution is to get a center pull brake that is compatible with the Di2 brifters. Has anyone done this on a V20 and can point me to what brand/model to use?
The amazing thing is that as soon as I finished, I did a 49 mile ride with 4500 ft of climbing on Kinomap, and I did not need to adjust either the RD or the FD.
I knew that going to the shorter chain stay would would raise the height of the handle bars. Using basic geometry, figured out how much, and decided it should not be a problem. The good news, it is easier to get on and off. The bad news, it does interfere with my forward visibility more than I expected. I am not sure what to do. I can think of three ideas. I can remove the pivot clamp, flip the bracket that fits on the top of the steering tube upside down, cut the top of the steering tube, and reassemble. Or remove the pivot clamp, turn the bracket that fits on the top of the steering tube backwards, cut the top of the steering tube, and reassemble. Or the path of least resistance, get the curved slider. Meanwhile, I will continue riding the Vendetta on the trainer as is.
I tried the wedge that fits under the (S40) seat pad. I could not get the headrest into a good location using the wedge, and it was not especially comfortable for me. I am considering splitting it in half and trying again. That might be the easiest and cheapest way to restore visibility.
I got the shorter chain stay installed. A couple of minor easily corrected issues, but the kicker is that I keep bumping the inner side of my right knee on the front brake. I am using Shimano Ultegra. I think the solution is to get a center pull brake that is compatible with the Di2 brifters. Has anyone done this on a V20 and can point me to what brand/model to use?
The amazing thing is that as soon as I finished, I did a 49 mile ride with 4500 ft of climbing on Kinomap, and I did not need to adjust either the RD or the FD.
I knew that going to the shorter chain stay would would raise the height of the handle bars. Using basic geometry, figured out how much, and decided it should not be a problem. The good news, it is easier to get on and off. The bad news, it does interfere with my forward visibility more than I expected. I am not sure what to do. I can think of three ideas. I can remove the pivot clamp, flip the bracket that fits on the top of the steering tube upside down, cut the top of the steering tube, and reassemble. Or remove the pivot clamp, turn the bracket that fits on the top of the steering tube backwards, cut the top of the steering tube, and reassemble. Or the path of least resistance, get the curved slider. Meanwhile, I will continue riding the Vendetta on the trainer as is.
I tried the wedge that fits under the (S40) seat pad. I could not get the headrest into a good location using the wedge, and it was not especially comfortable for me. I am considering splitting it in half and trying again. That might be the easiest and cheapest way to restore visibility.
paco1961
Zen MBB Master
I have the same problem w my knee hitting the front brake. Only my right knee for some reason. Guess somebody needs some pedal stroke analysis!
The issue is only occasional on the V (Sram force brakes)but more of a problem on the S40 (TRP). But I don’t think it has anything to do w the brakes. Just a position thing.
I thought an easy fix would be front discs which I love but it’s almost impossible to find road width hubs in disc. They are all 135s that make changing a front flat out on the road an absolute bear.
The issue is only occasional on the V (Sram force brakes)but more of a problem on the S40 (TRP). But I don’t think it has anything to do w the brakes. Just a position thing.
I thought an easy fix would be front discs which I love but it’s almost impossible to find road width hubs in disc. They are all 135s that make changing a front flat out on the road an absolute bear.
Ordered an Omega X brake to solve the problem. Talk about throwing money at a problem, but it was the only thing that looked like it would work.
Now another problem to solve. I get clicking noises with every pedal stroke. It appears to be from the two aft bolts holding the carbon fiber seat pan to the frame. It seems that the seat pan moves very slightly fore and aft with each pedal stroke, causing the noise. I am totally skunked, nothing I have tried has worked.
Now another problem to solve. I get clicking noises with every pedal stroke. It appears to be from the two aft bolts holding the carbon fiber seat pan to the frame. It seems that the seat pan moves very slightly fore and aft with each pedal stroke, causing the noise. I am totally skunked, nothing I have tried has worked.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
check your spokes for a loose one
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
A clicking sound that I had on my V and S30 came from the clamp that connects the boom to the top of the fork steerer tube. I fixed it by inserting extra thin mylar washers between the inside of each side of the clamp and the steerer tube mount. It's a little fiddly to do, but it silenced my clicking sound and has held up for years now. Your noise may well be your seat pan, but sometimes the actual source of a noise is not where the sound seems to be coming from. Clicks and creaks can travel through a frame.
Nope, does not seem to be the problem, but worth checking.
I put teflon tape between the mating surfaces, no change. Good idea, though.
I have teflon tape on both the upper and lower surfaces of the seat pan where the bolt holes are, as well as over the mating metal parts of the frame. That was done to stop squeaks and creaks a long time ago, and it solved the problem. I made tubes out of teflon tape, and poked them through the bolt holes in the seat pan. Then I slit the tubes and folded the resulting strips over the upper and lower surfaces. The idea was to line the inside of the bolt holes through the seat pan with the teflon tape. Then put the bolts back in. No change. Grrrr!
What to try next? Ear plugs, double stick tape, construction adhesive, riv nuts?
Got the Omega brake installed. The inside of my right leg is happy, my wallet is not happy. (Still riding the "V" only on the trainer.)
Pros:
Looks cool. (Not that any Cruzbike riders care about that, right?)
More aerodynamic, but with all the crap out in the wind if front of it, I doubt that will make any difference.
Easy to install.
Can adjust the distance to the rim individually on each side.
Does not stick out enough to bash my leg!!!!
Cons:
Cost.
No quick release, making an already difficult to change front wheel even more difficult.
Need to carry a 2 mm allen wrench to open up the brake to get the wheel off.
The "Pros" have it, but surely there must be a more cost effective solution.
Pros:
Looks cool. (Not that any Cruzbike riders care about that, right?)
More aerodynamic, but with all the crap out in the wind if front of it, I doubt that will make any difference.
Easy to install.
Can adjust the distance to the rim individually on each side.
Does not stick out enough to bash my leg!!!!
Cons:
Cost.
No quick release, making an already difficult to change front wheel even more difficult.
Need to carry a 2 mm allen wrench to open up the brake to get the wheel off.
The "Pros" have it, but surely there must be a more cost effective solution.
BikeCollector
New Member
After some experimenting, I have found my best front light attachment solution so far. Inspired by the "One-armed bandit" mount. Actually used a Topeak BarXtender which is cheaper and more flexible.
Even has space for multiple lights, fairly high up (better angle to the road) and close enough to the front to avoid most of the "foot flash".
Since the BarXtender nicely attaches to the FD bar, this idea can be used on many other recumbents as well.
