super slim
Zen MBB Master
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Loud background noise courtesy of Mrs Ratz rocking out the Kickr with her Silvio and the TV on full blast too.
How far away can the shifters be to the derailleur, and work?
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Loud background noise courtesy of Mrs Ratz rocking out the Kickr with her Silvio and the TV on full blast too.
Oh the build diary will have some commentary on that.What was the ACTUAL weight of that masterpiece of packaging?
about 10 ft.How far away can the shifters be to the derailleur, and work?
Drooling now Ratz! - how many sets did you say you have?Might be the first bike part box you simply can't throw away; feels like opening Apple's style of packaging.
Sadly I must now put it away and get back to work; ½ the staff is on vacation today.
I had 4, surprise surprise, I now only have 2. That's what happens when you go to Saturday Dinner for 4 hard core roadies.Drooling now Ratz! - how many sets did you say you have?
or.. I fear some terribly expensive has happened!I fear somethingterribleexpensive has happened."
or.. I fear some terribly expensive has happened!
Arms like ArnoldWere you using the rubber mallet on the Allen key?
Is the chainlines of the Rotor crank, the same as your boss'es bike chainlines, including the offset between the two chainrings?
Arms like Arnold
Well that's the interesting part. The clearance is the issue. The Rotor crank arm is completely straight and wide. When the Yaw is aligned correctly there is about 1.5mm clearance before hard interference. That's a tad tight for my taste. If I put it on incorrectly I can get it up to 2.5-3mm (measured by allen wrench thickness). Shifts were ok in the incorrect setting but not stunning. So I'm trying to figure out if it's the V's chain-line which is a little steep on the medium frames; of if it's the rotor+q-rings. Figured bringing in a Stock SRAM crankset was the fastest course to an answer. Force22 is surprisingly cheap this time of year as most places had them 20% off; I managed to get 31% for the last two Jenson had on the shelf. Arrive today and tinker this week; somewhat of a hassle as I have to pull the BB and change over to 24x22mm from 24x24mm. But at least this will get a solid answer. The potential bad news is that if the rotor crank is the problem, those are the power meters and they don't change out due to how they mount; which would then mean rotating those out on the used market; I can't tie that much capital up in the spare bikes; We had a similar but different problem with Di2 and these cranks; so I suspect that's going to be the answer. Now it's just biting that bullet.
Is the offset of the Power2max power meter spider, with its spline attachment to the crank, move the chainline out 2? mm CLOSER to the crank?
Would the power Tap C1 be a better option IF you want to go back to circular 110 BCD 5 H chainrings?