I sense a disturbance in the 3rd Law

jond

Zen MBB Master
i have heard that your testicles will get warm if you change gear more than twice a minute :)

seriously ratz what a boon no gear shift cables for a superb look all with great shifts as the promise.

cant wait for your build diary mate and a review.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
I wanted to see if I could control two electric BB driven bikes rear deraileurs only, from either the two disc braked bikes, when human powered or a central position when solar powered!
The two bikes would independently drive two 1.6 m dia. paddle wheels on a punt or catamaran, to travel 2300 km down the Murray river from the Hume Dam to the mouth near Goolwa in Sth. Australia.

I forgot about the two shifters to change up and down, AND the extreme cost of any Di2 system, so two extra MTB shifters and long cables with a detachable joiner on the exposed cable near the rear derailleur will be a simpler solution, as the bikes will be used for land transport to get ESSENTIAL supplies, of beer, shrimps, and Barby gas.
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Might be the first bike part box you simply can't throw away; :D feels like opening Apple's style of packaging.

Sadly I must now put it away and get back to work; ½ the staff is on vacation today. :(

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Drooling now Ratz! - how many sets did you say you have? :)
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
or.. I fear some terribly expensive has happened!

terribly expensive time wise yes.

Install Front Derailleur number 2 and the lower stop screw had far too much factory loctite blue on it. 3rd turn of the allen wrench and the head snapped. Many hours later SRAM has me take it to a LBS (where I didn't source it from) and Forces me to run it through their mechanic for verification; then it's off to SRAM for engineer to look at in case they need change the manufacturing process. Then I might see a replacement by May. Should be interesting to see how they handle all of that.

I don't mind making a product better and this is life on the leading edge. I don't even really mind the long wait (always have more than 1 bike). But the 2 hour round trip to the LBS that I trust enough to do this warranty and who wouldn't be overly offended to get sucked into the ordeal is probably something I could have done with out.

However the build shall continue; Mrs Ratz unit works; and Mine's a cool 11x1 right now; or I can use my foot as a derailleur.

Handle bar testing is mostly done with interesting results (dam easy to test when the shifters need no cables on the trainer to run the bike), but alas there's some Crank Compatibility to sort out; Rotor 3D Cranks (that I love) may not be RED YAW friendly.... Force 22's in route to verify it's a issue with the crank and not the V20 frame in general. Fingers crossed or the whole E-tap thing might have to be abandon as not compatible.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Were you using the rubber mallet on the Allen key?

Is the chainlines of the Rotor crank, the same as your boss'es bike chainlines, including the offset between the two chainrings?
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Were you using the rubber mallet on the Allen key?
Arms like Arnold

Is the chainlines of the Rotor crank, the same as your boss'es bike chainlines, including the offset between the two chainrings?

Well that's the interesting part. The clearance is the issue. The Rotor crank arm is completely straight and wide. When the Yaw is aligned correctly there is about 1.5mm clearance before hard interference. That's a tad tight for my taste. If I put it on incorrectly I can get it up to 2.5-3mm (measured by allen wrench thickness). Shifts were ok in the incorrect setting but not stunning. So I'm trying to figure out if it's the V's chain-line which is a little steep on the medium frames; of if it's the rotor+q-rings. Figured bringing in a Stock SRAM crankset was the fastest course to an answer. Force22 is surprisingly cheap this time of year as most places had them 20% off; I managed to get 31% for the last two Jenson had on the shelf. Arrive today and tinker this week; somewhat of a hassle as I have to pull the BB and change over to 24x22mm from 24x24mm. But at least this will get a solid answer. The potential bad news is that if the rotor crank is the problem, those are the power meters and they don't change out due to how they mount; which would then mean rotating those out on the used market; I can't tie that much capital up in the spare bikes; We had a similar but different problem with Di2 and these cranks; so I suspect that's going to be the answer. Now it's just biting that bullet.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Arms like Arnold



Well that's the interesting part. The clearance is the issue. The Rotor crank arm is completely straight and wide. When the Yaw is aligned correctly there is about 1.5mm clearance before hard interference. That's a tad tight for my taste. If I put it on incorrectly I can get it up to 2.5-3mm (measured by allen wrench thickness). Shifts were ok in the incorrect setting but not stunning. So I'm trying to figure out if it's the V's chain-line which is a little steep on the medium frames; of if it's the rotor+q-rings. Figured bringing in a Stock SRAM crankset was the fastest course to an answer. Force22 is surprisingly cheap this time of year as most places had them 20% off; I managed to get 31% for the last two Jenson had on the shelf. Arrive today and tinker this week; somewhat of a hassle as I have to pull the BB and change over to 24x22mm from 24x24mm. But at least this will get a solid answer. The potential bad news is that if the rotor crank is the problem, those are the power meters and they don't change out due to how they mount; which would then mean rotating those out on the used market; I can't tie that much capital up in the spare bikes; We had a similar but different problem with Di2 and these cranks; so I suspect that's going to be the answer. Now it's just biting that bullet.

Arms like Arnold the Rabbit ( Easter Bunny!), Not " The Swaltz!!!)

Maybe its a problem with the E Taps, and you need to get rid of them!!!

Is the offset of the Power2max power meter spider, with its spline attachment to the crank, move the chainline out 2? mm CLOSER to the crank?
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Is the offset of the Power2max power meter spider, with its spline attachment to the crank, move the chainline out 2? mm CLOSER to the crank?

After a bunch of testing and comparing; the Rotor with the Power2x is offset about 5mm outboard from the standard SRAM stuff; that's far enough to mess with the Derailleurs maximum adjustability way out like that. With Di2 it was always tricky but workable. There are some articles about moving the derailleur rear-ward with special adapters. But nothing concrete.

Some alternative parts are showing up tomorrow so we'll see what that brings. Oddly, on the Silvio 2.1 frames it's a non issue because the clamps are smaller; on the Yellow vendetta also pretty workable depending on the size of the welds.

On the v20 it's seems to be a combination of the wider fork; the bigger vendetta clamps, the power meter housing, and the rotor crank itself. Perfect storm equal just not quite right.

In all likelihood I'll have a good deal available on two power meters for anyone on the yellows or silvios that wants to get started with power. This will be a telling week. I suspect brake cable and bar tap to go on this week and the next diary installment will get done. Photos are about 50% done.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Would the power Tap C1 be a better option IF you want to go back to circular 110 BCD 5 H chainrings?

My research indicates that the C1 won't clear the Vendetta clamps. That was all web based haven't had one in my hands.

Good News is SRAM confirmed my locktite of doom is a known problem with one of the batches; and is replacing the derailleur no questions asked.

As for the power meter; pressing the reset button and going with P1 pedals now that those are approved for oval rings. Now I just have to figure out which crank sets to use.
 

jond

Zen MBB Master
ratz you are very relaxed. that trip to the "local" bike shop must have been particularly galling with your bike wrangling experience. 2 hours........ dont they do pictures????????

talk about a perfect storm alright. unlucky mate. hope you sort it soon.

p1 pedals good choice . yeah i saw ray's review checking them suitable for oval rings. like the easy set up too no mucking around with torque wrenches. nice and portable.

i still like the protection the wheel itself offers for their proven hub based power meter.

i believe a mountain bike p1 is in the pipeline. spd users rejoice.

looking forward to the diary build.

thoughts on v2 sram red yaw front mech v v20 shimano ultergra. shift quality is smoother likely due to matched shimano components on v20. v2 fsa chainset. chain rub is non existent on both front mechs. verdict either one bling or smart choice.

thanks for sharing ratz.
 
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