My Very First Recumbent is a V20

[Frito Bandito]

The golf grips on the bars finally gave up the ghost and the replacement foam handles tear too easily, so I just wrapped the bars with some leftover bar tape from my DF bike. I moved the Wireless Blips to the top of the bars instead of on the sides and combined with the new bar wraps it feels better than the golf grips or foam handles when I pull on the bars in high efforts.

 

[Jeffers]

Keizoku kaizen

 

[Frito Bandito]

Slowly but surely. Can't wait for this heat to be gone though. I have a feeling the tape I used is just going to melt off the grips

 

[Frito Bandito]

Definitely need the 55t chainring now since I was spinning out on my test.

Shimano Dura Ace 9100 has a 110 PCD just like 105 has but I might need to take my Dremel tool to the arms to make it fit on my 105 cranks.

 

[ratz]

Definitely need the 55t chainring now since I was spinning out on my test.

Shimano Dura Ace 9100 has a 110 PCD just like 105 has but I might need to take my Dremel tool to the arms to make it fit on my 105 cranks.

Vuelta.... makes a 56T & 60T that will fit
It's even aero; it's great for making 2x4s

 

[Frito Bandito]

That ring looks sinister Ratz. Nothing like leaving sawdust in the wake lol. Not sure I can go with a 60t since I still have to ride it to and from the bike path but I will check out if Vuelta is available here and if not, how much shipping is. This being Japan means Shimano is practically falling off the shelves and I can occasionally find used parts for super cheap.

 

[ratz]

Good word choice. We use to call this "Sinister Trike" with the 56T on it.

 

[Frito Bandito]

That 56t definitely belongs on the business end of that trike. It looks like a chainsaw haha

 

[Jeffers]

55 tooth chainring sounds really large at first.

But it would be the same ratio as 10 tooth cog driven by my 50 tooth chainring.

I find it easier to visualize bicycle gearing by converting it to cogs on my current chainring.

 

[Frito Bandito]

With all the "gear inches", "compact gears", "MTB gears" and other stuff I try but can't even begin to wrap my head around I keep it simple with Pontiac's "Bigger is better" (or smaller cassette)

If I can ever get my new project off the drawing board I might go straight to a Miche 61t if I can get it to work with my SRAM 12 speed.

 

[ratz]

55 tooth chainring sounds really large at first.

But it would be the same ratio as 10 tooth cog driven by my 50 tooth chainring.

I find it easier to visualize bicycle gearing by converting it to cogs on my current chainring.

yeah I have to run over and visualize these all the time

Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator

Bike Bicycle Gear Gearing Designer Calculator Graph

mike-sherman.github.io

 

[Frito Bandito]

Just saw this 9.7L Topeak Dynapack at my LBS for ¥4000 (about $35) and it looks like it would make a very nice tailbag for either a V20 or S40 if I could find a dependable and sturdy way to connect it. In the pic is is just resting on my other tailbag frame.

 

[ratz]

if I could find a dependable and sturdy way to connect it. In the pic is is just resting on my other tailbag frame.

See your DM's for a build thread spoiler and solution.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Gotta get my CdA way lower. This is not good enough. I rode with my "new to me" Mavic 60C wheels with the 23mm OEM tires, and then swapped them out for tubed 25mm Conti GP5000 tires. According to Mavic, 25mm tires are slightly less aerodynamic than the 23mm OEM tires, but the Contis likely have far better rolling resistance. My CdA of 0.216 for the 1st ride is worse, requiring 200 watts for an average speed of 37.1kph, but when it was 0.202 all I needed was 188 watts for the same speed over the same course. I think with tubeless Conti GP 5000 I can save a total of 4-6 more watts, but even more importantly I need to chop that CdA down to something like 0.170 or at the least 0.180.

 

[Mathew Fy]

Gotta get my CdA way lower.

My last few rides had a mywindsock-calculated CdA higher than usual. Is it because of cold rubber, more viscous air, more clothing, or something else?

 

[LarryOz]

Gotta get my CdA way lower. This is not good enough. I rode with my "new to me" Mavic 60C wheels with the 23mm OEM tires, and then swapped them out for tubed 25mm Conti GP5000 tires. According to Mavic, 25mm tires are slightly less aerodynamic than the 23mm OEM tires, but the Contis likely have far better rolling resistance. My CdA of 0.216 for the 1st ride is worse, requiring 200 watts for an average speed of 37.1kph, but when it was 0.202 all I needed was 188 watts for the same speed over the same course. I think with tubeless Conti GP 5000 I can save a total of 4-6 more watts, but even more importantly I need to chop that CdA down to something like 0.170 or at the least 0.180.

Great info - it might also be better talk about you "power" in W/Kg instead of just watts. True CdA takes all that into acocunt as well, but those trying to make sense of what 200 or 188 Watts "means" for them - W/Kg is much more helpful.
I know with 190W and 67Kg Mass - my W/Kg = 2.83 - WIth that on my V20 I can avg about 25mph or 40kph - yeah, I know - I am slippery, but it comes with years of practice and endless testing. It really helps to be 5'6 and fit into the V20 like a jet figher pilot.
My CdA from Windsock on my 12-hour Championship race in Oct was: -- myWindsock Report -- CdA: 0.143--- I rode the Magic 100 miles and the V20C 158 miles - so it was a combo of both. Magic is more aero - but harder to make power on too -

 

[vosadrian]

Also, bear in mind that not all power meters read the same. I use garmin Vectors... as does my brother. We often ride together and in bunchs together. Ours read close (and our weight is similar). I have compared our power on Strava segments of bunch rides where we are all working approximately equally and more often then not, our power is near the lowest, and we are probably around average weight. I believe the PM reads lower than most.

One side effect of lower power readings is low CdA calcs. I get really good CdA numbers (close to Larry but not quite), but I thing my treu CdA is maybe 10% higher due to the PM reading lower.

If you have a PM that reads on the higher side, you will get higher CdA numbers than your actual CdA.

I'm pretty happy with my setup. I run the 25mm Conti tubeless tyres, and I typically get CdA around 0.16-0.17 (I sometimes get MWS values down to 0.12, but I think this is the PM issue). I don't think 25mm tyres are your issue.

 

[Frito Bandito]

I think you hit the nail on the head Vos. I wouldn't be surprised if the left side only 4iiii exaggerated my power numbers a bit. I have been kicking around the idea of a pair of Favero Assiomas, but I use SPD pedals and think I would have to do the conversion which might void the warranty, so I haven't bit the bullet yet. Another reason for considering the Faveros is to be able to swap pedals with my road bike to see just how much more efficient my V20 is compared with my road bike. I don't really know what I would do with that information other than simply confirm what I already know which is that it is more efficient, but it would probably be useful data for those on the fence about buying a V20.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Great info - it might also be better talk about you "power" in W/Kg instead of just watts. True CdA takes all that into acocunt as well, but those trying to make sense of what 200 or 188 Watts "means" for them - W/Kg is much more helpful.
I know with 190W and 67Kg Mass - my W/Kg = 2.83 - WIth that on my V20 I can avg about 25mph or 40kph - yeah, I know - I am slippery, but it comes with years of practice and endless testing. It really helps to be 5'6 and fit into the V20 like a jet figher pilot.
My CdA from Windsock on my 12-hour Championship race in Oct was: -- myWindsock Report -- CdA: 0.143--- I rode the Magic 100 miles and the V20C 158 miles - so it was a combo of both. Magic is more aero - but harder to make power on too -

I hear ya Larry. At my best on the road bike I was at 3.4w/kg, but I don't know what I am at now, probably way lower. I wish I could fit into my V20 like you do with yours though

0.143 is amazing, and way out of reach for me unless I am in a streamliner lol.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Well, my Shimano R7000 105 53/39t cranks are about 3 years old now with about 30,000km (18,000 miles) on them, and I came across a practically new 12-speed Shimano Dura Ace FC-09 54-40t crank set with 170mm crank arms, no power meter for just under $300. This crankset is what Shimano is replacing the older cranksets affected by the recall with, so there is no worry about the delamination issue.

The Dura Ace Q-factor is 2mm wider and the crank arms are 5mm longer than my left side only 4iiii power metered 105 cranks, I often feel my 165mm crank arms are too short, and while the smaller Q-factor on my 105 cranks is 2mm narrower, which is miniscule, I feel my feet are always pushing outwards on my pedals. Occasionally I find myself spinning out with my 53t when the wind conditions are perfect. I have been thinking of making the jump to Favero Power meter pedals as well. I might be trying to justify purchasing these new cranks with all these microscopic gains and I think $300 for Dura Ace cranks that the chainrings still have the paint on the teeth is a pretty good deal. What do you guys think?