Ol'Yellow get a New Facelift after 11.6K Miles

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Cruzbike Disk Brake set up
IS adapter to use on a Cruzbike with disc braked wheels.

https://www.npmjs.com/package/makerjs-disc-brake-mount-is
Front DF IS brake mount 87 mm from axle to furthest bolt, 49 mm to the closest bolt = 38 mm difference
Rear DF IS brake mount 78 mm from axle to furthest bolt, 40 mm to the closest bolt = 38 mm difference
On a DF bike the front Disk brake mount is 11 mm higher AND at a different angle, so that the same IS brake adapter can be used on a Rear 140 mm disk OR a front 160 mm disk, and are marked F160/R140, OR 0 mm IS.
AF180/R160, OR 20 mm IS, would be used on a DF 180 mm Front disk, OR a 160 mm rear disc.

On my Quest, the front AND rear welded disk bracket location are the SAME, at 76 mm distance from the axle to the furthest bolt, and 36 mm to the closest bolt = 40 mm difference, so different to the DF IS standards, but close to the Rear IS standard.

This could be why a F185 IS adapter (instead of the expected F180/R160) is required for a 160 mm Cruzbike front disk, and a F160/R140 (0 mm IS) adapter for the 140 mm Rear disk.
A F203 IS adapter is required for a Cruzbike 185 mm front disk.

Differences between a BB7 and TRP Spyre, HY-RD brakes
BB5 and BB7 have two 5.2 mm high spherical washers sets per bolt to allow the brake body to be centred to the disk, and this is built into its height design, so all of the brake pads are swept by the disc.
BB5 and BB7 have a alignment centering ball on the moving pad, but none on the fixed pad.
The BB7 has a pivoting ball support for the alignment of the moving brake pad off vertical, which is why they are much wider than the TRP Spyre, but it is needed as the disk is flexed inwards at a slight angle off vertical, to meet the fixed inner brake pad (That has no angular aligning ball) , as the outer pad applies force to the disk!

So BB7 brakes are VERY Tolerant of the welded bracket misalignment, but the penalty is extra weight and width, and only having one moving pad,
so a lot more readjustments are required to keep the brake pads wear even!


TRP Spyre and HY-RD have NO 5.2 mm high spherical washers sets per bolt to allow the brake caliper body to be centred to the disk, and rely on the welded disk brackets to be perfectly vertical, for good brake pad contact to the disk.
TRP Spyre and HY-RD, height of pad to Disc design, assumes the caliper is bolted directly to the IS adapter!
TRP Spyre and HY-RD have no aligning balls for the pads, as both pads move and the disk is not deflected.
TRP Spyre and HY-RD rely on the welded disk brackets to be perfectly vertical, for good brake pad contact to the disk. Once set up, then very few adjustments required as the disk is not bent to operate.

Set up videos
Avid BB7 setup, align calipers
stop disk brake squealling

Set up tips for TRP
TRP Clicking or shuddering fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T2RLgQoyvs

Fixing TRP problems with an off vertical, welded disk bracket
1 Adding 2 sets of spherical washers per bolts, to align the caliper body, like Avid disk brakes.

To add two sets of 5.2 mm spherical alignment washers, 3.0 mm to 5.2 mm needs to be filed or machined off the F185 IS adapter, to maintain the correct brake pad contact height with the disk.
This can not be done for the rear disc as there is not enough metal on the F160/R140 adapter to remove 2 mm, let alone 5.2 mm. (see photo to the right, with 3mm scribed lines)
The brake pads have JUST full contact with the disk, so no brake pad ridges are created that rubs on the outside of the disk!
On the Spyre this is when the radial clearance of the disk outer edge, to each end of the Spyre body disk slot is approximately 2.5 mm.
upload_2017-1-19_6-4-28.png

2 Filing the top of the IS adapter horizontal, to allow for non vertical welded bracket.
With the IS adapter, bolted to the frame, but the wheel and Caliper removed, then the frame is clamped to a bike stand, so the top surfaces of the IS adapter is horizontal, and the axle is Horizontal.
Then using a bubble level as a check, file the IS top surfaces horizontal,in BOTH directions, fit the brake caliper, with two spherical washers ABOVE the brake caliper, to allow for misalignment, and try a spare disk clamped to the caliper, using the brake cable adjustment, and check if the disk is vertical with a bubble level. If not try again!
IS adapters are cheap, Bike frames are NOT!!!

3 Filing the side of the welded disk bracket so vertical.
Remove the IS adapter and caliper, but leave the wheel and disk fitted, and mount on a bike stand so the axle is horizontal.
Using a good Idaho softwood block 25*12.5 * 50 long, bolted to the outside of the disk, so only a 0.1 to 0.5 mm gap to the Welded bracket!
Remove the wheel.
File the welded bracket, so there is an even gap to the block, and add shims between the disc and the wooden block, to deduce the gap, so it is easier to verify an even gap, and file the bracket again if required.

Sideways clearance between the IS adapter and the disc
http://www.dirtfreak.co.jp/cycle/sram/service/avid/avid_technical_specifications_my13_updates.pdf
http://my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/2004 disc fit info.pdf
From page 5 of the Avid Tech manual, the wheel side of the front weld lug bracket should be 4 +-0.1 mm outside the fork inside edge.
From Page 11 of the Avid Tech manual, the disk flange should be 10.5 mm from the FRONT Non drive hub end.
From Page 2 of Avid Disk fit, the disk flange should be 10.16 mm from the FRONT hub end, and 15.27 mm from the REAR DRIVE hub end.

So the CRUZBIKE DRIVE FRONT welded lug should be 4 -(15.27-10.16) 5.1 = 1.1 mm inside edge past the fork inside edge, compared to a DF bike of 4 mm outside.
So the CRUZBIKE NON-DRIVE REAR welded lug should be 4 mm outside the fork inside edge (same as a DF Front!)

Measuring various IS adapters, for 140 to 203 mm disks, from different suppliers, the three thicknesses were 10.0 mm, 10.5 mm, and 11.0 mm, so no standard.

If the IS adapter is 10 mm thick, then the clearance to the the disc should be 2.4 mm

I checked my Quest V1.0 and it is 3.1 mm, with a 10.5 mm IS bracket giving me a 1.5 mm clearance with a 1.95 mm thick disk, and a 9.7 mm disk flange to hub edge, so ALL dimensions are different to the Standard!

Check the thickness of your IS adapter and buy a 10 mm thick new one if there are side clearance problems.
If this does not solve the problem, then file off 0.5 mm from the disc side of the IS adapter.
If this does not solve the problem, then add 1.0 mm washers to each side of the hub, to move each side of the forks out 1.0 mm

Sideways clearance between the 140 mm rear disc and the REAR seat stays on a Vendetta or a Silvio?
Check that the rear hub has a 100 mm spacing, and add 1.0 mm spacers to each side of the hub and aradite them in location, if not.
File off any stay protruding weld material if higher than the stays.
File off a maximum of 0.5 mm depth to a stay in this welded area, and create a gentle transition, and use fine emery paper to smooth out any file grooves in the filed area.
Add 1.0 mm spacers to each side of the hub and aradite them in location, to move both stays out 1.0 mm.
 
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Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
First of all I would to thank you SS for your very detailed look into this problem. Just a few notes:
Sideways clearance between the 140 mm rear disc and the REAR seat stays on a Vendetta or a Silvio?
Check that the rear hub has a 100 mm spacing, and add 1.0 mm spacers to each side of the hub and aradite them in location, if not.
File off any stay protruding weld material if higher the the stays.
File off a maximum of 0.5 mm depth to a stay in this welded area, and create a gentle transition, and use fine emery paper to smooth out any file grooves in the filed area.
Add 1.0 mm spacers to each side of the hub and aradite them in location, to move both stays out 1.0 mm.
In my case this would not have worked to get a 140mm rotor to work with my frame. I ended up having to remove 2mm of stay from my frame with the addition of a 1mm spacer placed on the rotor side just to feel comfortable with clearance from the between the frame stay and 140mm rotor. However I do remember reading about Gary's build, and that he had to file down a little bit of the weld to get clearance 140mm rotor. Thinking perhaps not all V 2.0 are manufactured to the exact same tolerances. Reading about the V20's builds with disc brakes seems to clarify that maybe the disc brake compatibility is/was more refined.

I can also confirm on my V2 that it's not possible to get the caliper pads parallel with the rotor with TRP or other disc brake setups that don't use the incorporation of "spherical alignment washers". The way I'm seeing this is "spherical alignment washers" are necessary to match TRP type disc brakes to my Vendetta. However this has not been confirmed with other V2's. The problem as SS outlined in using the "spherical alignment washers", they will raise the caliper pads 4-5mm up and above their required positioning on the rotor disc.

I'm currently healing from oral surgery...unfortunately I got a case of dry socket which is adding more time to heal, not to mention the constant pain, and not being able to eat for 5 days so far, and possible another week.

I will be testing (once I've recovered from oral surgery) TRP HD/RD, along with TRP Spyre Mechanical, and Avid BB7's. The TRP will require using "spherical alignment washers" and milling down the adapter brackets. I'm looking for that nice disc brake feel for power stopping. I realy like the look and minimalist of the TRP Spyre Mechanical, and that the pads are adjustable on both side, it's a vary sleek looking caliper.
 

Niko

Member
I´m just building a wheelset for discbrakes to be fitted on my V20, because i want reliable braking in all weather. After seeing this thread i´m puzzled... My almost 3000€ frameset has the discbrake -mounts just slammed somewhere on the forks, and nothing really fits how it should, or the discs don´t even fit in the frame ? Or are the mounts better on the V20 ? Or then i misunderstood this thread completely ? I had planned to use 160/140mm setup with TRP Spyre Mechanical. Now i don´t know anymore which brakes with which adapters should i get.
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
I´m just building a wheelset for discbrakes to be fitted on my V20, because i want reliable braking in all weather. After seeing this thread i´m puzzled... My almost 3000€ frameset has the discbrake -mounts just slammed somewhere on the forks, and nothing really fits how it should, or the discs don´t even fit in the frame ? Or are the mounts better on the V20 ? Or then i misunderstood this thread completely ? I had planned to use 160/140mm setup with TRP Spyre Mechanical. Now i don´t know anymore which brakes with which adapters should i get.
Niko you may not have to be concerned about compatibility issues with the V20. I haven't read members having the issues with their V20 frames that I have reported with my frame, which leads me to believe it's either isolated to just my frame or perhaps some of the early V2.0 production.

Measuring (roughly) my post mounts confirm that they are spaced correctly from the hub center line, when comparing my measurements to Super Slim's standard df rear spacing. My rough measurements were:
Front...78mm furthest and 38mm closest
Rear....77mm furthest and 39mm closest
Accounting for about 1mm error on my part these distances according to Super Slim's post is right on for df rear spacing.

However, my particular problem, for whatever reason, is the post tabs are not parallel to the disc, which is required to install the TRP, as they are not tolerant to deviations in parallel issues. I have not read anyone having this problem with their V20, or for that matter their V2.

My other issue is a 140mm rotor will not work for the rear without milling about 2mm from the stay. Again, I have not read this being a problem the V20, and only have read where only the weld needed additional mill work for a couple of V2.0's.

It's my understanding that the V20 underwent several minor tweaks and alterations, of course other than the new boom configuration.

So again, in my humble opinion, it maybe fair to say, you may not have the problems I encountered.
 
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ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
I´m just building a wheelset for discbrakes to be fitted on my V20, because i want reliable braking in all weather. After seeing this thread i´m puzzled... My almost 3000€ frameset has the discbrake -mounts just slammed somewhere on the forks, and nothing really fits how it should, or the discs don´t even fit in the frame ? Or are the mounts better on the V20 ? Or then i misunderstood this thread completely ? I had planned to use 160/140mm setup with TRP Spyre Mechanical. Now i don´t know anymore which brakes with which adapters should i get.

Rick has a Vendetta TT or Rev 3 if you prefer. You have a V20, probably a Rev 5, if it's charcoal grey. If so your spacing will be optimized for 132mm and the welds should be cleaner and everything should fit better. Just then a matter of if brakes that are support. @Robert Holler has said something about one model of TRP Sprye not fitting in some cases. Rotors sizes will dictate the mounting brackets you need to use. Hopefully by the time we get to Rev 7 or 8 flat mount will be the only standard :emoji_blush:
 

Niko

Member
Thanks for your responses! After sleeping the night i´ve also cooled down after the shock;) and will just choose the brake i like. If it takes some tinkering to fit, then so be it (of course, hopefully, no tinkering).

Btw, the Ol´Yellow is the best color for Vendetta !
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
I agree that the Big Yellow is still the best looking Vendetta out there, especially when associated with Maria Parker's stunning rooky win of the RAAM 2013, by a LARGE margin!

I would be interested to know, what was the percentage sales increase of Vendettas, in the 6 to 12 months after the RAAM 2013?
 
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super slim

Zen MBB Master
Rick I do not think that the rear stays have 2 mm thick walls, to be able to mill/file away!

Would an option be to borrow Ratz's rubber Mallet and a range of Idaho softwoods to hardwood from Larry, as he must have a huge range, and for you to cast up a fiberglass mould of the outside of the rear left stays near the 140 mm disc edge.

Then lay the Vendetta on its LH side with the mould, supporting the rear stays, below where 2 mm of stay needs to be carefully persuaded to move outwards, with a smooth transition, near the outer edge of the 140 mm disc!

Could others please comment, if this too radical a method, which could misalign the rear stays.
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
Rick I do not think that the rear stays have 2 mm thick walls, to be able to mill/file away!

Would an option be to borrow Ratz's rubber Mallet and a range of Idaho softwoods to hardwood from Larry, as he must have a huge range, and for you to cast up a fiberglass mould of the outside of the rear left stays near the 140 mm disc edge.

Then lay the Vendetta on its LH side with the mould, supporting the rear stays, below where 2 mm of stay needs to be carefully persuaded to move outwards, with a smooth transition, near the outer edge of the 140 mm disc!

Could others please comment, if this too radical a method, which could misalign the rear stays.
SS, I will get a pic uploaded later today. I've already filed away the 2mm. I'm reluctant to try the method you mentioned because one false move could destroy the frame. I'm better with carbon fiber than mallets. It says so on my avatar, Bob has better Thor :emoji_hammer: skills than I.
 
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super slim

Zen MBB Master
Rick I am building up a Silvio V2.2 frame, with S30 parts on it, and I was having major problems with the Spyre disk brake caliper and the rear 140 mm disk, with it making regular noises as the wheel rotates!
I tried fitting new pads, as it was the one I tried on the Quest, and had to file the lip off the pads, but it did not improve.
I then checked the 140 mm disk to see if was straight, and it was bowled towards the spokes by 0.5 mm, so I replaced it, but no improvement!
I then added 1.0 mm thick washers to the underside of the Caliper, in case the disk was rubbing of the pad location pin, but no improvement!

I then did something radical and looked at the disk from the right hand side!!!
I then realised , that I was having a Seniors 30 minute moment!!!

And then, I saw that the spokes were rubbing across the lower edge of the inside rotating lever!!!

I then filed 1 mm at 30 degrees, off the bottom edge, but not enough!

I then installed a 160 mm disk and the R160 adapter and all is well down under!!!
And I am Young again!!!
 

Niko

Member
Thanks for your responses! After sleeping the night i´ve also cooled down after the shock;) and will just choose the brake i like. If it takes some tinkering to fit, then so be it (of course, hopefully, no tinkering).

Btw, the Ol´Yellow is the best color for Vendetta !

I thought i'll report to this thread as there's already a lot of brake talk here... I have the disc brakes installed now. I ended up choosing Avid BB7 for my V20 as i'm very familiar with those brakes from using them since 2003. There were no problems installing them. The 140mm disc at rear is very, VERY, close to the frame, but doesn't make contact. :)

15mbbie.jpg
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
My disc brake Update: After several months of trial and error I've abandoned the idea of disc brakes on my V2. I purchased a new set of rims to use with my existing Industry 9 hubs and Sapim CX-Ray 2.0 spokes. I found the HED Belgium Plus rim to be a close match as far as ERD, so I can reuse my CX-Ray spokes. My existing 28mm Pro One tubeless mated with these rims measure out at 32mm wide, they look huge. After I wear the 28mm, I will go with 25mm. It's nice to get the rim brakes installed.

Inspired somewhat by the new 2018 V20 and then with my own twist, I updated my decal theme as seen below:

FLIKR FEED

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Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
Very nice! Love the accents and tail box. Those "yeller" bikes really are special.
Thanks for the kind words. Yes I'm excited to see yellow (or Gold) come back into the new line of V's, especially this spicy yellow with the effect of luminance.
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
I hate your tail box, and all the effort it represents, mostly I'm just jealous though. Why'd you give up on disc brakes?
Jason, LOL...this, version, my bike's version of the Vendetta (V2 or TT), the disc brakes tabs are misaligned enough that I was unable to get BB7 and the TRP's to work correctly. I'm also very particular and critical. Post #64 and above describes in more detail the problems I encountered.
 
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RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Jason, LOL...this, version, my bike's version of the Vendetta (V2 or TT), the disc brakes tabs are misaligned enough that I was unable to get BB7 and the TRP's to work correctly. I'm also very particular and critical. Post #64 and above describes in more detail the problems I encountered.

That's a bunch of BS for a consumer to have to deal with, only thing that would let this slide is the fact most owners would never try disc brakes or maybe only a few were made wrong like yours. IMO that would warrant a replacement frame with properly welded caliper tabs but that's something left to your discretion. As stated in the hands of 95% of cruzbike owners a this wouldn't be a problem but if you wanted to join the 5% using disc brakes then the frame becomes useless for that purpose. Yes I'm being harsh but disc brakes are a critical item in what I do with the Vendetta.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
That's a bunch of BS for a consumer to have to deal with, only thing that would let this slide is the fact most owners would never try disc brakes or maybe only a few were made wrong like yours. IMO that would warrant a replacement frame with properly welded caliper tabs but that's something left to your discretion. As stated in the hands of 95% of cruzbike owners a this wouldn't be a problem but if you wanted to join the 5% using disc brakes then the frame becomes useless for that purpose. Yes I'm being harsh but disc brakes are a critical item in what I do with the Vendetta.
Rick, I have the solution to STAYING with disc brakes, as I too rate them way above rim brakes, especially when it is wet and wild weather!!!
Remove the wheels from Big Yellow, Duct tape it to the back of your racing 1,000cc Motor bike, ride down to Jason's in 5 hours, as it is only 500 miles!

For just the price of a second hand Carbon Fibre Tail Box, designed for the same seat as his, he would place your Big Yellow on its side, perfectly level, Power side up, on his Milling machine, and machine the tabs flat in the vertical and horizontal planes to the bike wheel CL.
 
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