Q ring upgrade - Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh......

ReklinedRider

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
@ratz.....hope you don't mind taking yet another look? rotated chainrings one hole counterclockwise from this:
(Before)--
image.jpeg
(After)--
image.jpeg

Does this look like #4 position? TIA...
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
trplay said:
I think I'll leave the settings right here for awhile.
Click to expand...

Voodoo rings for the win.

This is exciting as it means we now have a low cost of entry product so more people can get this benefit.

Is your small ring still Out of phase or did you line that up?

And for the next person that buys these can you:

  1. document which model of ring (there are a couple)
  2. Confirm you just set the ocp screw and re-mounted
  3. That when the ocp is set they only can be mounted 1 way because of the way the adjuster ring works

Just seeing if we can work around the lack of qualtoy docs due to the language barrier
 
Rich

Rich

Member
I have been wanting to do something to change the gearing on my Q559 for a while. I thought about changing the cassette, but changing the chainring seemed cleaner.
So after carefully reading this post, I got a 40T Qcx1. I could not decide between the 38T or 40T, but took a chance on the 40.
I was surprised how low my front peddle was at full leg extension. Guess that is the difference between my Q and the S or V.
Here is a snap of my Rotor.


Qcx1.jpg
 
Dave Arnold

Dave Arnold

Active Member
Rotor is coming out with an App to measure Q-Ring effectiveness and help you dial-in the best OCP position. However, I think you'll need to buy there corresponding crank-based power meter. But, if they if they price the power meter right and if they come in 155mm lengths I'm all over it. Check out the video from GCN--Rotor app at ~ 3:30:

 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
snilard said:
Is it good idea to have Q-Ring only as a small and use round for large?
Click to expand...
If cost is an issue; and you need to climb better; yes it works fine and you can get benefit. The QXL ring would be appropriate as it's the one with the real climbing advantages. On a compact double 110-bcd the normal q-ring doesn't really provide enough advantage due to the limit imposed by the diameter of the bolt ring. On a 130-BCD crank the normal q-ring can be more oval and help.

A 36QXL has a diameter that varies from 33.3 to 38.7
a 36 Q has a diameter that varies from 34.5 to 37.5
a 34 Q is almost round and just gives you nicer shifting when paired with a Big Q-ring.
 
trapdoor2

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
Now you got me thinking I need a QXL inner, just as you suggested in another posting. Mixing a QXL inner with a Q-ring outer any problem?

The metric I am planning to ride is Saturday...but the weather (and my left knee) may not cooperate. If so, I will spend the weekend re-clocking my Q-rings and testing.
 
RojoRacing

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
ratz said:
No problem rotor recommends it for climbing applications.
Click to expand...

:lol that news to me, go figure I have the exact opposite Qxl outer and Q inner on my bike. Just imagine how well I could climb with the recommended setup :p

I do feel a slight(very slight) difference when I shift from one ring to the other but only for like 10 seconds if that then it's normal again. I swear it used to be closer to 30 seconds and the time to adapt after a shift has continued to get shorter over time. I'm not sure if I'm feeling a slight difference in the mounting position or if I'm feeling the change in the amount of oval growth per rotation but again it very slight and only for a moment.
 
Bruce B

Bruce B

Well-Known Member
Yesterday evening I installed a new 36-QXL inner ring to replace the 34-Q. Both inner and outer rings are at OCP- 4. A short ride around the neighborhood confirmed that shifting across both the chain rings and the cassette is working correctly. More evaluation tomorrow.
 
nontrovoilnome

nontrovoilnome

New Member
ratz said:
Little update ....

Thanks to Etap and Di2 I have lots and lots of shift data from the last two years. PluckyBlond have been riding QRing Aero 52 and Qring QXL 38 and the 11-28T SRAM this spring/summer and Aero52/Standard Q36 with 11-32T di2 last year. It's very interesting to look at two years of shifting data and tendancies

With the ETAP the gearing is a little tall when you live at the top of a 9% hill especially when getting home from 100+ mile rides. But we've been limited by what Etap can do... But still the obvious conclusion was that we are riding far too often at the top of the cassette; and spend a bit too much time in little ring.... Turns out we both like the way the 38 QXL pedals so when GI was equal we'd use the QXL.

So after much googling reading an searching I believe we can stick a 11-30T on the Etap and make it work. Then I managed to find a Unicorn in a 50T QXL ring. So we are going to pair out the bikes at QXL 50/36 and a 11-30T cassette; should get a little more up hill bailout; only missing a little as it is now; and basically give up a little top end that is rarely used and can be compensated for by raising the RPM's on the down hill.

Comparatives (all 5 bolt 110BCD)

Old
QRing Aero 52 (major axis 54T minor 50)
QRing QXL 38 (major axis 41 minor 35)

New
QRing QXL 50 (major axis 54T minor 46) <<<---- didn't even know this creature existed
Qring QXL 36 (major axis 39 minor 33)


This years riding on the QXL 38 has told me that it climbs hill much much better than a round 34T, and better that standard Qring 36T. Here's hoping the QXL 36T has similar climbing property....

Updates to follow. Shifting should be interesting to redo...
Click to expand...
What's the difference in major and minor axis between 34 QRing and 36 Qxl?
 
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