Robert's V20 build

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
2) Move rear-brake cable location slightly to better enable moving caliper to top location for most calipers.

Or leave it where it is; and put a hold in the frame there in the center and a small cable stop mount inside the frame; then center pull TT brakes could be used very efficiently.
 

Dave Arnold

Active Member
Our Erickson tandem is fillet brazed--you cannot see a weld anywhere, but it's made out of 4130 cromoly straight gauge tubing. Cannondale must do something to make the welds on their high-end aluminum bikes look so good. I am not a welder and I have only held a torch to repair a faucet!
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Klein bikes were know for some of the most colorful pain schemes as well as unparalleled alloy welds smoothness. They truly are collectors items at this point.

DSC_0004.jpg
 
Titanium would be nice as long as we don't lose any stiffness for power transfer, but I don't think titanium is required for cleaner welds. If I'm not mistaken, Cannondale has made aluminum frames with clean welds--I think they must grind/clean/polish the welds before finishing.
Maybe include grind/clean/polish the welds as part of the hand painted option for an additional cost.
Maybe titanium would be a good material for the headrest rails/tubes.

Other refinements I would like to see are:
1) Internally routed cabling everywhere.
2) Move rear-brake cable location slightly to better enable moving caliper to top location for most calipers.

I have an late model alum Cannondale CAAD 10 DF frame and the welds are clunky and not smooth at all. The cleanest alum welds were on the old Klein DF road frames, fat but smoothed out and even. The beauty of titanium is that it can be formed and shaped to be as stiff and compliant as desired, all in the same frame. Titanium is as close to an ideal as a bicycle frame metal as possible. Its one of the most abundant metals, but very expensive to extract and difficult to work with, including the fact that its TIG welding requires gas purging behind the area being welded. Other than that the two TI bikes I have are DFs, they are a dream to ride, both just over 17 lbs and I am not using the lightest components. I am sure that with light components both could come in easily less than 15 lbs each.
 

Itripper

Active Member
I was thinking the same thing and could not agree with this more. I have two DF titanium bikes from that well known bicycle manufacturer in North Carolina that made its name in titanium frames. Seeing what they can do, a Vendetta in titanium would be a work of art and entirely feasible. For one thing, a titanium frame would get rid of the clunky alum welds. The titanium welds from this company are a thing of beauty onto themselves. Both of my frames have the polished bare metal finish with very minimal decals, incredibly beautiful just to look at. No need to worry at all with corrosion in titanium. In addition I am sure there would be a substantial savings of weight in going over to titanium. I mean, does Cruzbike intend to make the V in aluminum forever? What is next evolutionary step?

Hydroforming titanium would be crazy expensive!
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
.....the two TI bikes I have are DFs, they are a dream to ride, both just over 17 lbs and I am not using the lightest components. I am sure that with light components both could come in easily less than 15 lbs each.

Do your DF Ti bikes have carbon or Ti forks? Who made your two bikes? Tks,
KM
 

Markopolo

Active Member
Robert, how do you like the bar end shifters?

I see you are pointing yours down, I have some on the way and was going to point them upward, didn't know how it would work with lap clearance.

Anyone else with bar end shifters like to give some input?
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
.....the bar end shifters?

I see you are pointing yours down, I have some on the way and was going to point them upward, didn't know how it would work with lap clearance.

Anyone else with bar end shifters like to give some input?

Like this?:
79F4CF72-2B2C-49B4-A8FD-931B26B9986F.jpeg
There is more than ample lap and knee/thigh clearance.
 

Markopolo

Active Member
Yup, that is what I have decided on. Pointing down they seem hard to manipulate. I went ahead and used the sram levers and removed the paddles. Thanks.
 
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Kenneth

Well-Known Member
That wide range is a bit on the extreme side, but I rode it last year to test the shifting of the OneUp. IMHO anything less than 1:1 and you really just need to be riding more hills to build strength as the front end becomes unstable.

The cyclestar mirrors I got from Calhoun Cycles. They are hard to come by but in my opinion is the most awesome mirror out there. Real glass without a lot of curve and distortion. Since I ride in Portland traffic and through downtown a lot I want to see and see clearly. If you remove the stalk mount you can pop the mirror straight into the part that attaches to the bar for a clean look.
Robert,
i see lots of comments about visibility on the V vs the S40. I ride a lot in Austin traffic on the S40 and as you state above i like to see clearly . You comment here about riding in downtown Portland traffic and knowing you have probably have more hours riding both bikes than anyone i would like your take on using the V in traffic vs the S40. My main questions are is a riders ability to see and scan ahead,left and right notability reduced on the V? Do you feel that cars have a harder time seeing you on the V in traffic? Right now on the S40 i feel my ability to both see and scan ahead, as well rear viewing with the mirrors, is not limited in anyway by the bike. Do you think the V if set up well with mirrors and curved slider would provide the same?
 

tiltmaniac

Zen MBB Master
I had the SRAM TT shifters on my bullhorns (S30v1 build), but had to switch back to 'classic Cruzbike' handlebars after I started to reliably get trigger finger from 'em. Figured out that I need my hands to have the opposite angle of grip to prevent that, and never had a problem since.
 

rx7mark

Guru
I had the SRAM TT shifters on my bullhorns (S30v1 build), but had to switch back to 'classic Cruzbike' handlebars after I started to reliably get trigger finger from 'em. Figured out that I need my hands to have the opposite angle of grip to prevent that, and never had a problem since.

Interested, please explain "trigger finger?"
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
The S40 is the best ride for traffic. The V is a race bike IMHO - but I don't commute on one or ride in traffic. The S40 is actually faster in that environment.

Robert
 
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