Yes, saw a few similar things on the web last night, but wanted something a bit wider - those can barely fit one light on them.
S40 Build
- Thread starter ElyDave
- Start date
That looks like hard work, which I why I was hoping the raceblades would work. They attach to the forks and rear stays with rubber straps. Here's a few links
https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/raceblade-pro-black-2/ looking at these though, they say max 25mm tyres, which might be the issue as I'm using 28mm. Perhaps I bought my pair for the CF roadbike that had no clearance and skinny tyres.
These might be an option with a bit of adjustment as well. https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/edge-al/
https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/edge-al/
or these http://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/raceblade-pro-xl/
OK, so I took another look at the raceblades this morning, 07:30 in the shed, hopefully clear head after a nights sleep, and hey presto.
need to protect the frame with a bit of old inner tube or something and add the extra rubber bands, and should be good to go. It was mainly a case of enough brute force to bend the stays into the right places - the long one on the rear originally had a kink in it for example. I've checked, yes I can still fit the rear rack if I want to.
need to protect the frame with a bit of old inner tube or something and add the extra rubber bands, and should be good to go. It was mainly a case of enough brute force to bend the stays into the right places - the long one on the rear originally had a kink in it for example. I've checked, yes I can still fit the rear rack if I want to.
benphyr
Guru-me-not
My two cents worth in my usual rambling, extended way. Opinion: If you are going to put fenders on then you will want full coverage.
Rationale:
What I mean is, if you pretend the wheel is spinning and throwing water/road grime at a tangent to the tire, you want the guard to cover anywhere that the water/road grime can hit anything you care about such as you, frame, bag, brake mechanism, and chain/gears. The mentioned list is probably in backwards order because you, frame and bag are cosmetic reasons but protecting the brake mechanism and chain and gears from getting wet and dirty make those components keep working as intended and with much less maintenance.
So if 0 degrees is a horizontal line to the rear from the axle, then on the front wheel you would want the fender to run from where you have it at -30 degrees to 135 degrees (past the chain stay and chainrings, maybe past the bottom of your pedal stroke. On the rear wheel you would want the same -30 degrees, to prevent spray on anyone following you and your head/bag/taillight, to the lowest frame part at 180 degrees to keep spray off your bags and frame.
I got my Cruzbike conversion kit mostly pre-made by @hamishbarker who used rivets to connect two fenders for the front to get the full coverage. This also gives multiple solid attachment points. I think the attachments to the forks, chain stays and frame are called P-clips (metal strap covered in rubber clamped with a nut and bolt).
Cheers,
Ben.
Rationale:
What I mean is, if you pretend the wheel is spinning and throwing water/road grime at a tangent to the tire, you want the guard to cover anywhere that the water/road grime can hit anything you care about such as you, frame, bag, brake mechanism, and chain/gears. The mentioned list is probably in backwards order because you, frame and bag are cosmetic reasons but protecting the brake mechanism and chain and gears from getting wet and dirty make those components keep working as intended and with much less maintenance.
So if 0 degrees is a horizontal line to the rear from the axle, then on the front wheel you would want the fender to run from where you have it at -30 degrees to 135 degrees (past the chain stay and chainrings, maybe past the bottom of your pedal stroke. On the rear wheel you would want the same -30 degrees, to prevent spray on anyone following you and your head/bag/taillight, to the lowest frame part at 180 degrees to keep spray off your bags and frame.
I got my Cruzbike conversion kit mostly pre-made by @hamishbarker who used rivets to connect two fenders for the front to get the full coverage. This also gives multiple solid attachment points. I think the attachments to the forks, chain stays and frame are called P-clips (metal strap covered in rubber clamped with a nut and bolt).
Cheers,
Ben.
Remember when your dad said "measure twice, cut once?", well that long tandem brake cable I bought for the rear brake - I went asn snipped the wrong f@#%ing end off didn't I. At least I may now have a spare for the rear of the M5. More embarrsingly I need to go back to the LBS and buy another one.
The BB sleeve appeared yesterday, so cranks finally mounted, and cabling of all except rear brake completed.
More electrical tape than handlebar, almost. Also reversed the little pulley wheel for the front derailleur, I think I needed to reverse the carrier but not the pulley, so cranks off again to reverse it - at least i've not mounted the chain yet.
The cable seems to be dragging on the high side of the pulley and is also rubbing on the edge of the derailleur itself. I think I need a bit more cable tension at the small ring position to sort the latter, reverse the pulley for the former. Shifting on the "rear" seems OK, but heavy on the "front" - one piece of advice i have with the bar end shifters to reduce friction is to exit the outers from the bar tape next to the brake lever, rather than running it around the drops.
The BB sleeve appeared yesterday, so cranks finally mounted, and cabling of all except rear brake completed.
More electrical tape than handlebar, almost. Also reversed the little pulley wheel for the front derailleur, I think I needed to reverse the carrier but not the pulley, so cranks off again to reverse it - at least i've not mounted the chain yet.
The cable seems to be dragging on the high side of the pulley and is also rubbing on the edge of the derailleur itself. I think I need a bit more cable tension at the small ring position to sort the latter, reverse the pulley for the former. Shifting on the "rear" seems OK, but heavy on the "front" - one piece of advice i have with the bar end shifters to reduce friction is to exit the outers from the bar tape next to the brake lever, rather than running it around the drops.
paco1961
Zen MBB Master
Actually, my S40 frameset should arrive Monday or Tuesday. Assembling the parts and it's been a bit of a challenge. Wish the CB website had a more complete spec list for those of us planning a build. I'll pick up a tandem cable this weekend and that'll be one more piece of the puzzle in place. Think I should have everything at this point but one never knows . . .
Progress update
- Chains on order - bought 2 ultegra chains full 116 links as they were on sale. One spare even if I don't need extra links from it.
- RD removed and reinstalled, now looks better - a bit of a tight fit around the b-adjust screw, may need a bit of later filing
- indexing adjusted and looks good, hopefully will stay that way with the chain.
- rear brake cable - remembered back to the M5 build - Wilko's for those in the UK - their brake cables are long enough.
Still to do
- seat and cushions
- bottle cages
- accessory mounts (Garmin etc)
- bar tape - last thing (will test ride first to check gear changes before I decide final cable route)
Longer term
- luggage solution - rack, choice of rear bags
- dyno hub and lighting set up
- source better mudguards
It's starting to look like a bike now
- Chains on order - bought 2 ultegra chains full 116 links as they were on sale. One spare even if I don't need extra links from it.
- RD removed and reinstalled, now looks better - a bit of a tight fit around the b-adjust screw, may need a bit of later filing
- indexing adjusted and looks good, hopefully will stay that way with the chain.
- rear brake cable - remembered back to the M5 build - Wilko's for those in the UK - their brake cables are long enough.
Still to do
- seat and cushions
- bottle cages
- accessory mounts (Garmin etc)
- bar tape - last thing (will test ride first to check gear changes before I decide final cable route)
Longer term
- luggage solution - rack, choice of rear bags
- dyno hub and lighting set up
- source better mudguards
It's starting to look like a bike now
McWheels
Off the long run
View media item 206
2 mudguards on the front wheel. The first chopped directly under the fork crown, the other sliding under it. Both attached either side of the crown with a single bolt. It's done wonders for the BB and pedals. Since then I've also added a RAW mudflap which stops anything spraying the underside or rear triangle.
2 mudguards on the front wheel. The first chopped directly under the fork crown, the other sliding under it. Both attached either side of the crown with a single bolt. It's done wonders for the BB and pedals. Since then I've also added a RAW mudflap which stops anything spraying the underside or rear triangle.
after 3 days of screwing around, trying to fit the mudguards from the donor road bike, I'm done with that. The difference in the mounting points is the issue for the rear and lack of mounting points for the front.
It will be the raceblades as an interim measure until I find another solution, likely to be with P-clips on the front at least.
I did manage to fit the bottle cages, chains have arrived, and seat cushions to fit, then I can play
It will be the raceblades as an interim measure until I find another solution, likely to be with P-clips on the front at least.
I did manage to fit the bottle cages, chains have arrived, and seat cushions to fit, then I can play
I have 50 34 Rival FD on my S40. It was built by Rose City Recumbent. The FD's gap does look wide compared to my Ultegra FD on my other bike, also 50 34. However, it shifts fine. I wouldn't say it's the smoothest, but it works. Make sure you install the pulley correctly.
Michael
Michael
So here she is, ready for some training (of me that is)
No bar tape yet, I'll make that the last thing I do once I have the cockpit dialled in. First impressions, vs the other recumbent I have, she is very light. Haven't weighed her yet but I am no weight weenie on components, I'm an audaxer.
The M5 for comparison
No bar tape yet, I'll make that the last thing I do once I have the cockpit dialled in. First impressions, vs the other recumbent I have, she is very light. Haven't weighed her yet but I am no weight weenie on components, I'm an audaxer.
The M5 for comparison
Oh man! How much fun is that!
I didn't do the carpark drills, flintstoning, roll downs etc. I'd intended to, but wanted to get a feel for the handling first. In the event, 3 failed wobbling starts and I'd got the hang of the initial pedal steer on start up, or at least enough to get going. About 1km down a quiet single track lane, wobble, wobble, wobble. Think - relax, relax, relax and the correction of the pedal steer becomes more instinctive rather than a fight. Visibility is great and the ride is nice and smooth.
Gears are indexing nicely, mudguards need a little attention.
I've a feeling this will be a very comfortable audax bike. Plan tomorrow is a quick 10-15km depending how I get carried away or not. I will do some handling drills as well though, I think it may be a while before I'm comfortable enough to try drinking on the move.
Weight of the S40 - as pictured - 13.5kg
Weight of my M5 - as pictured - 16kg
Now the training starts for the summer tour.
I didn't do the carpark drills, flintstoning, roll downs etc. I'd intended to, but wanted to get a feel for the handling first. In the event, 3 failed wobbling starts and I'd got the hang of the initial pedal steer on start up, or at least enough to get going. About 1km down a quiet single track lane, wobble, wobble, wobble. Think - relax, relax, relax and the correction of the pedal steer becomes more instinctive rather than a fight. Visibility is great and the ride is nice and smooth.
Gears are indexing nicely, mudguards need a little attention.
I've a feeling this will be a very comfortable audax bike. Plan tomorrow is a quick 10-15km depending how I get carried away or not. I will do some handling drills as well though, I think it may be a while before I'm comfortable enough to try drinking on the move.
Weight of the S40 - as pictured - 13.5kg
Weight of my M5 - as pictured - 16kg
Now the training starts for the summer tour.
