T50 - whatcha planning to build.....

[Doug Burton]

A couple of things...

My frame kit arrives Thursday 7/6, so I've not opened one up to inventory it/check it out. But based on what I read here,

The "locking spacer" is redundant, although it can make assembling and adjusting the headset easier, before mounting the pivot clamp. As far as providing a solid stop to adjust the expandable headset spacer against, the pivot clamp will do this just as well when tightened.

A note about the expandable headset spacer for those who may never have encountered one: The screw does not tighten the clamp to the steerer. It closes a cone-shaped section on one half against a cone shape section on the other half to add or reduce height to the spacer to take up or relax the headset bearing pre-load. If you tighten it thinking it's clamping to the steerer tube, you're likely to strip it out; it's not a large screw and it doesn't take much to strip it once it has bottomed-out on the clamp.

The Quest was also shipped with a "steering column " of extra length to accommodate folks with long legs/shins to get sufficient bar height adjustment. I just left it long and slid my stem down to where I liked it, and have adjusted the height several times. The extra length I have also used to mount headlights and cyclometers.

As for cutting the fork steerer, I think I like the fact that it was shipped long. During production of some of the early-series bikes, we got some forks with steerers that were a little short for my liking. They weren't unsafe, but the steerer-steeering column interface is a place where I like to have as much overlap as I can get. I don't mind trimming a little to get that super-redundant tubing fit.

I've built a bunch of various Cruzbike models, and these are just my opinions about how these bikes go together.

I'm sure the Cruzbike team will bend backwards 720 degrees to make sure you get taken care of.

Build safe, ride well!

Best,

Doug

 

[Rampa]

Don't they use this one now?
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/adjustable_spacer_-_6547

This kind of part in unfamiliar for many people, as it is not that commonly used.

It goes right under the great big clamp. You set the bottom part with the set screw (don't be an animal on it), and then adjust the height by turning the upper part that is threaded into the lower part.

The video shows an extra clamp that, as Doug says, is not needed.

EDIT.

Actually, that clamp-on cable guide is probably meant to be the locking bit, with the addition of providing cable management.

 

[Jeremy S]

From someone who is planning to order a T50 frame kit later, thank you guys for taking on the early adopter brunt. I remember assembling my first-run Silvio 2.0: refiling holes in the carbon fiber chainstays, cutting a slot in the boom tube, and generally failing to fit a rear suspension elastomer into the frame. As long as Cruzbike kept the support communications and solutions coming I was happy to deal with the issues.

 

[Bill K]

Don't they use this one now?
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/adjustable_spacer_-_6547

This kind of part in unfamiliar for many people, as it is not that commonly used.

It goes right under the great big clamp. You set the bottom part with the set screw (don't be an animal on it), and then adjust the height by turning the upper part that is threaded into the lower part.

The video shows an extra clamp that, as Doug says, is not needed.

I think you are correct. If you watch the video carefully and don't listen to the audio you will see Robert adjust the headset tension using the adjustable spacer (not the locking spacer noted in the audio) after the boom clamp is tightened. The boom clamp serves the same purpose as the missing locking spacer.

 

[Rampa]

In fact, I would prefer the steering tube be twice as tall. I would much prefer to use it directly instead of the extension tube. The pivot clamp needs a larger diameter to clamp to, but could easily be shimmed.

Starting to think about upgrading from my recent Sofrider purchase.

 

[SlowRoll1950]

Thanks, Doug. That was very helpful and makes sense. Cruzbike obviously targeted the frame kit for people that were either already proficient in tinkering with bikes or smart enough to get someone else who does. I don't fit into either category so I would have benefited from more detailed instructions. For example the video shows the lower seat and mounting bracket already connected. So I needed to examine the number of screws to figure out that the seat assembly takes the six short screws and the two long screws are for connecting the quick release mount to the back of the upper seat -- or maybe the upper seat to the lower seat -- we'll see. I assume the rubber parts are for cables? The plastic washers are for what? You see where I am going with this.

I struggled but managed to get the steering riser on and the pivot clamp locking everything down. I think I am committed to the small riser as I don't see ever getting that back off! The seat went on fine. I needed a lock nut for front lamp stub accessory as a screw was included but no lock nut. Fortunately I had one lying around that fit.

I bought the Axiom rack and the TIGR mini lock. Both promised all the hardware I would need. Not so. The TIGR lock rack likely should be a problem as (I think) I simply need the same hardware that attaches the lower seat to its mount. The Axiom rack is another situation entirely. On the video they mention the two 15mm spacers but there is no mention of the hardware to attach to the frame (hardware for attachment to the upper seat struts was included). When I look at the connecting point I don't know the dimensions of the required bolt and it doesn't look to be threaded so what do I use on the wheel side that doesn't go too far into the space for the wheel?

Here are the photos of my stuff:

 

[Doug Burton]

View attachment 5033
Thanks, Doug. That was very helpful and makes sense. Cruzbike obviously targeted the frame kit for people that were either already proficient in tinkering with bikes or smart enough to get someone else who does. I don't fit into either category so I would have benefited from more detailed instructions. For example the video shows the lower seat and mounting bracket already connected. So I needed to examine the number of screws to figure out that the seat assembly takes the six short screws and the two long screws are for connecting the quick release mount to the back of the upper seat -- or maybe the upper seat to the lower seat -- we'll see. I assume the rubber parts are for cables? The plastic washers are for what? You see where I am going with this.

I struggled but managed to get the steering riser on and the pivot clamp locking everything down. I think I am committed to the small riser as I don't see ever getting that back off! The seat went on fine. I needed a lock nut for front lamp stub accessory as a screw was included but no lock nut. Fortunately I had one lying around that fit.

I bought the Axiom rack and the TIGR mini lock. Both promised all the hardware I would need. Not so. The TIGR lock rack likely should be a problem as (I think) I simply need the same hardware that attaches the lower seat to its mount. The Axiom rack is another situation entirely. On the video they mention the two 15mm spacers but there is no mention of the hardware to attach to the frame (hardware for attachment to the upper seat struts was included). When I look at the connecting point I don't know the dimensions of the required bolt and it doesn't look to be threaded so what do I use on the wheel side that doesn't go too far into the space for the wheel?

Here are the photos of my stuff:View attachment 5027View attachment 5028View attachment 5029View attachment 5030

It's good that the steering column is a tight fit - the closer those two parts are to being one part, the better. However, if you need to get it off, just heat it up some with a hair dryer, and wiggle/pull it to get it off. Doesn't take much heat to open the diameter enough to loosen it.

Rampa is correct about the adjustable spacer. The old Diatech adjuster used the cone-on-cone arrangement; the Problem Solvers adjustable spacer uses a threaded section to allow you to make it taller/shorter, and the screw locks the lower threaded portion so the adjustment stays put. But in both cases, over-tightening the screw will strip it. At least the PS part is easily-sourced; the Diatech pieces were made of unobtainium.

Thanks for the detailed photos. Looking forward to getting mine later this week.

One way to get detailed help is to bolt things together the way you think they're supposed to work, and then post photos here of what concerns you. There's lots of expertise around here; everyone will work to help you straighten things out.

I think there's room for creating a detailed assembly manual for the frameset. I wrote the assembly guides for the Quest; maybe I can re-work one of those for the T50 frameset.

Enjoy the rest of your assembly work, and keep the pictures coming!

Best,

Doug

 

[Frisard]

It's good that the steering column is a tight fit - the closer those two parts are to being one part, the better. However, if you need to get it off, just heat it up some with a hair dryer, and wiggle/pull it to get it off. Doesn't take much heat to open the diameter enough to loosen it.

Rampa is correct about the adjustable spacer. The old Diatech adjuster used the cone-on-cone arrangement; the Problem Solvers adjustable spacer uses a threaded section to allow you to make it taller/shorter, and the screw locks the lower threaded portion so the adjustment stays put. But in both cases, over-tightening the screw will strip it. At least the PS part is easily-sourced; the Diatech pieces were made of unobtainium.

Thanks for the detailed photos. Looking forward to getting mine later this week.

One way to get detailed help is to bolt things together the way you think they're supposed to work, and then post photos here of what concerns you. There's lots of expertise around here; everyone will work to help you straighten things out.

I think there's room for creating a detailed assembly manual for the frameset. I wrote the assembly guides for the Quest; maybe I can re-work one of those for the T50 frameset.

Enjoy the rest of your assembly work, and keep the pictures coming!

Best,

Doug

Writing a an assembly instruction set would be great. I am the kind of guy who has excellent mechanical aptitude, who usually says 'build it first and then read instructions - if all else fails. Also need the right parts.
Thanks
Fred

 

[super slim]

A couple of things...

My frame kit arrives Thursday 7/6, so I've not opened one up to inventory it/check it out. But based on what I read here,

The "locking spacer" is redundant, although it can make assembling and adjusting the headset easier, before mounting the pivot clamp. As far as providing a solid stop to adjust the expandable headset spacer against, the pivot clamp will do this just as well when tightened.

A note about the expandable headset spacer for those who may never have encountered one: The screw does not tighten the clamp to the steerer. It closes a cone-shaped section on one half against a cone shape section on the other half to add or reduce height to the spacer to take up or relax the headset bearing pre-load. If you tighten it thinking it's clamping to the steerer tube, you're likely to strip it out; it's not a large screw and it doesn't take much to strip it once it has bottomed-out on the clamp.

The Quest was also shipped with a "steering column " of extra length to accommodate folks with long legs/shins to get sufficient bar height adjustment. I just left it long and slid my stem down to where I liked it, and have adjusted the height several times. The extra length I have also used to mount headlights and cyclometers.

As for cutting the fork steerer, I think I like the fact that it was shipped long. During production of some of the early-series bikes, we got some forks with steerers that were a little short for my liking. They weren't unsafe, but the steerer-steeering column interface is a place where I like to have as much overlap as I can get. I don't mind trimming a little to get that super-redundant tubing fit.

I've built a bunch of various Cruzbike models, and these are just my opinions about how these bikes go together.

I'm sure the Cruzbike team will bend backwards 720 degrees to make sure you get taken care of.

Build safe, ride well!

Best,

Doug

If the problem Solver Nut was available for my Quest V1.0, I would not have had to replace the "Locking spacer", with a standard carbon fibre expanding Head Stem clamp and an extra long tensioning bolt, using all thread, a joining coupling and a allen set screw!

 

[ChaleJake]

I think there's room for creating a detailed assembly manual for the frameset. I wrote the assembly guides for the Quest; maybe I can re-work one of those for the T50 frameset.

Enjoy the rest of your assembly work, and keep the pictures coming!

Best,

Doug

Thank you for the Quest assembly guide. It was great. I only had to ask one question to the forum. I had no skills and followed the instructions. It has been a few years and the bike has not fallen apart.

 

[Bill K]

I did a shakeout ride today and learned a couple of things that might help the rest of you.
1) Make sure the boom slider clamp is really, really tight. I had it come loose twice in the first few miles. The first time the crank completely separated from the boom and went all the way to the ground.
I am going to rig a restraining cable until I understand what happened and learn to trust the clamp.
2) You can adjust the seat forward or back about 2 inches. I initially had it all the way forward, which for me and my long legs meant the boom was extended close to its limit. Maybe that is why the clamp came loose.
3) After a few miles the chain loosened and kept falling off. Its a Rohloff hub without a chain tensioner so this should not affect most of you.
Hopefully this is normal break-in and I can tighten the chain and get away without the chain tensioner, but only time and miles will tell...

4) It was fun to ride! I cruzed the waterfront a couple of times until I decided to take it home and fix the above issues.

 

[Jeremy S]

1) Make sure the boom slider clamp is really, really tight. I had it come loose twice in the first few miles. The first time the crank completely separated from the boom and went all the way to the ground.
I am going to rig a restraining cable until I understand what happened and learn to trust the clamp.

For one thing, make sure the outer tube has a slot cut so it can compress under the clamp. I'd be surprised if it were missing but it's happened before. Otherwise, I'm sure some minimum insertion distance is required.

 

[Rampa]

Silvio/Vendeatta front-end should be appearing on a T50 in 5..4..3.........

 

[DavidCH]

Word of caution. When I first started with cruzbike style of mbb make sure your right shoe lace is tied up and not loose. Mine caught up in the chain and if you are unsure about yourself you will probably take a fall.

 

[Gary123]

Or any bike for that matter

 

[McWheels]

Ohhhh a Rohloff, how decadent! I get by a SA-8Sp and all the buzzing and whirring that goes with it. Dream bike would be a S30/40 with Rohloff, but a sympathetically modified [bodged] V2k is what we've got. It's definitely the 80/20 solution so unless I win the lottery I don't play, that's how it's going to be.

 

[Bill K]

As an experiment, I tried installing my old Euro-Mesh seat. With one small modification (drilling the seat stay attachment hole 1-size larger) it just bolts on. The seat clamp is designed for a tear-drop frame shape and the T50 is round but it still fits nicely. I will need to monitor it for stress cracks, just in case.
Here it is at about the lowest seat angle. I have no idea how the low seat angle would affect handling, but I will ride with it high enough that I do not need a neck rest.

 

[Rampa]

Woohoo! First T50 seat mod!

It really is a modder's dream frame kit.

 

[DavidCH]

Here it is at about the lowest seat angle.

That looks low ... what's the angle... to me that looks worthy of a head rest.

Might just be the clever angle of photography

 

[Doug Burton]

Frame just received (6:48 PM EDT.)

Very nicely packed, which was not always the case in the old days. You are much more likely to damage this un-boxing it than the shipper is in shipping it. Be careful with those knives, folks!

One number folks might like to have. The front fork axle-to-crown dimension is 339.725 mm. Buy your wheels and tires accordingly!

More useful dimensions as I go through the frame with my trusty tape measure and calipers.

First impression - very nice piece of work! Proud of you guys!

Best,

Doug