My favorite pad is also the stock m5 pad.
I can get a very similar foam from Chesapeake light craft but 3/4
My favorite pad is also the stock m5 pad.
I can get a very similar foam from Chesapeake light craft but 3/4
Estimates can be made. My rule of thumb is 2 square inches = 0.001 meters squared. If the shape is like a brick (think mirror), I just double that to get the CdA. Plug 0.002 differences in Gribble and you can get a feel for the results to expect with a brick. Your hands are far more"slippery" than a brick and they interact with the rest of your body (face, neck). The coefficient of drag for your hands might be more like 0.4. So, maybe 0.005 improvement for the hands at the most. This would bring your hypothetical cruising speed from say 25.0 mph to 25.2 mph or in that ballpark. To be honest, I think of it a lot. My hands and brake levers really stick out in the air but only during certain times when the pedals are in the bottom position but when the pedals are in the top position, my leg is bent and it shields the hands and brake levers. My forearm and elbow are always exposed. This is where I think the gunner bars could make even more speed than the hands. (I think). I am going to guess you will gain about twice what I guesstimated. I'm thinking 0.5 mph improvement.....to maybe 25.5 mph from 25 mph. To some this might sound trivial but it would take 8-10 watts on the other side (your legs) and that isn't so easy when already pretty fit.
Go to clc.com and search for minicell foam. It comes in various sizes and can be easily cut and shaped. I use it for kayak seats and custom shape it with a wire brush held in a pair of grip pliers. It is firm foam. I could mail you a piece if you want to check it out first. Just message me your address.I found a custom furniture place that says they can cut out a seat pad for me in any shape. Can you tell me what exactly this foam from Chesapeake is so that I know what to order?
Judging by my recent test results, it looks like your calculations might be spot on. Top speed on my coast down tests are 0.5 mph higher than before in the four tests I've conducted so far.
I'm thinking of getting rid of the front etap derailleur and selling it on e-bay. I don't need it for these flat roads, and ditching it will make it possible to put a plate on one side of the big ring to keep the chain from falling off, like my M1 has. Do you think getting rid of that bulky derailleur up front will result in any measurable aerodynamic gains?
Overall? Yes. How much depends on the angle of the wind (yaw). IIRC from some test reports in the wind tunnel, dumping both the FD and small ring is 2-10 watts depending on your speed and the angle of the wind, so, I can't give any more specific than that and it is from memory. Obviously none of these things we discus matter much at all at speeds in the 20-24ish mph range but up at 30 mph, small things matter. Just run a 56 or 53 ring in front and an 11-32 in the back. I am experimenting with a 56 now. Might go back to the 53. Not sure. I also thought of 50 if I could find one and going single ring. I can make it up most hills in 50x32.
I have to have a front light for randonneuring and it along with battery is huge waste of aero energy. I'm considering making a battery container and putting it inside the boom and making a cable to go up thru the FD hole.
I have seen chain guards on cross bikes. Can't help but 3D might be the way to go.
WRT bike forks, I have thought about it some and have read on some forums that the aero gurus talk a lot about the interaction between the wheel and fork. They don't really discuss what is going on in terms of the interaction. I was watching CFD modeling of various front bike wheels and what stood out to me was the location of the null point or vortex varies a lot from wheel design to wheel design. I have thought of buying an OVAL Concepts Jetstream fork but those were made 10 years ago and not sure the full history. The older R900 is cheap on ebay but the new R911 is pricey. The following link....read post 4. It touches on the complexity of the wheel and fork interface. (I have a love/hate relationship with my fork)
https://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/...Concepts_A900_Fork-__Myth_or_Miracle_P666778/
I think I know what Kent means.
If you think about a Milan Sl velomobile with a CdA of perhaps 0.03, it might actually take more power to go 10 mph than a V20 at 10 mph because of higher weight and at those speeds, most of the forces against the rider are linear. The lower the CdA, the higher the speed that nonlinear wind effects show themselves so to speak. I have heard it said by a very experienced velonaut that a velo is just a slow, heavy trike at 15 mph. If you look at a curve of power vs speed for a velo, it looks somewhat linear until maybe 28-30+ mph. On a fast racing recumbent, that sweet spot might be 23-26 mph. On the power to speed curve (gribble is your friend), that knee or inflection point is indeed in the range that Kent mentioned, but it does depend on the weather and how I am kitted up. He might also be applying some physiology to it as well. Riding below the first ventilatory threshold, an endurance athlete is almost burning all fat and can ride for a long, long time. Kent has a lot of power, so, I suppose 25 mph for him is the overall sweetspot and I suspect he ain't working real hard to do it and can carry on for many, many hours at that pace.
Kent's physiology couldn't be more different from mine, but I've noticed the same thing he reports at roughly the same speeds. Recently I won a relatively easy KOM on a 12 mile long segment, where the record was just under 24 mph average. The only reason I thought it might be a challenge was because of the length. I'm used to competing in 1-2 minute sprints, so I had no idea what to expect if I tried to go for a much longer distance at a modest speed. I began conservatively, just making sure never to let my speed drop below 24 mph. That didn't tax me at all, so at the halfway point I increased my speed to 25 mph, then 26 mph, and eventually picked it up to 28 mph for the final two miles. What surprised me was that the the stress on my body didn't increase very much once I crossed the 25 mph barrier. In fact, the lactic acid burn that I'd been experiencing from the beginning had completely vanished by the last three miles or so. Not sure why that happened, but I've experienced this several times since. Who knows, maybe it was just the dopamine blocking the pain.
When initially ramping up power to the pedals, the incremental power is always anaerobic. There is a delay until the heart rate, lungs, and the rest of the aerobic system catch up and start making increased power from aerobic sources. This delay is a lot longer exercising in the recumbent aka "supine" position than on an upright bike. The period also varies from individual to individual. I researched this in depth because I learned thru trial and error that a harder and longer warmup is essential on a bent and that it is always best to ease into a hard effort compared to on an upright. Otherwise, the initial anaerobic byproducts will thwart the effort.
After almost 2 years busting my butt, I am almost making as much power on a bent as I did on an upright 3-4 years ago. I had to learn a lot along the way.
Another seat pad source is yoga and exercise pads from Dunham’s or Walmart. Different brands have different types of foam and thicknesses
Well, that clears up quite a few things I've wondered about, like why my PR's seem to be highest after I've ridden for quite a few miles than when I'm fully rested. From my own experiences, I would estimate that it takes me at least 6 miles at a decent pace before I'm warmed up. That's my guess based on the fact that after ~6 miles, the perceived exertion seems to drop quite a bit but without any decrease in power output. After about 10 miles, I feel very relaxed just holding a constant 25 mph. But what I don't know is how much of a warm-up is optimal to get me ready for say, a half mile sprint. I imagine that sort of thing requires a different type of warm up?