On a FWD MBB it seems to me that one advantage is the ease with which the elbows can be brought into profile of the legs whereas this is not so easy on a tiller setup.
Does anyone have CdA data for this M1? RChung field testing? How fast is it?
Maria and Larry both seem to be down in the 0.145-0.160 range on the Cruz V20. Slippery for sure and certainly very practical. I try to study photos to learn better positioning. It would seem to me that a faster racing setup to try on a V20 would be narrow aero TT bars with etap buttons (not the big levers) and carbon TT brake levers. Aero profile bars. No gloves. Arm coverings. Might cut a lot of drag down.
For me, getting my elbows in has been a positioning challenge. When I get my railgun, there might be more room.
On a FWD MBB it seems to me that one advantage is the ease with which the elbows can be brought into profile of the legs whereas this is not so easy on a tiller setup.
Does anyone have CdA data for this M1? RChung field testing? How fast is it?
No CdA data that I'm aware of, but if you do a search on Bentrider, you'll find some speed tests done by Sean Costin, showing that his M1 has a top speed approximately 2 mph faster than his M5 at the same power output. If I recall correctly, he also mentioned that he and some other M1 riders were able to cruise at around 30 mph for extended periods. I was very skeptical of that claim when I first read it, but now ridden an M1, it seems entirely plausible. My M5 will blow the doors off my V20 when it comes to outright speed, so if the M1 is 2 mph faster than even the M5...
One thing I did notice is that it took me longer than expected to reach high speeds (25 mph+). It's uphill capabilities also failed to impress me. It seemed as if I was working much harder than I should be, and the resulting speed wasn't sufficient to capitalize on the M1's superb aerodynamics. My perception is that it's a phenomenally fast bent, but not a "quick" bent. It's just a theory for now, but the reason it feels sluggish could be because of the difference in geometry, I'm simply not able to produce the high power numbers on it that I can on my V20.
Yesterday I rode a new trail that goes from Osteen all the way out to Titusville. It's newly paved, flat, and straight as an arrow, with almost no road crossings for 20 miles. That will be an ideal place to do some speed/power testing.
So on the subject of handlebar design, this is the most recent computer model of a design I came up with. I've discussed it with Thom Ohlinger, who builds and races recumbents, and the resulting geometry reflects some of his own thinking with respect to grip angles and sound aerodynamics. Shifting gears is done with the the Di2 TT style buttons on the top of each grip. Due to the hyper-sensitivity of gunner bars, mechanical shifters were avoided; I want to be able to perform rapid gear shifts without the slightest change in hand position, and without creating any unintentional steering inputs.
I think I found the comparison, it wasn't on BROL. Three "problems" with the comparison. Different tires, wheels, and especially two different powetaps. My two powertap wheels differ by 4%. A front disk is certainly faster than a trispoke. I am not familiar with the tires used. Nonetheless, 0.155 for the M5 CHR and 0.120 for the NoCom sound about right although it is unclear whether the estimates were temperature, dewpoint, altitude, and atmospheric pressure corrected. What is also interesting is Sean's humbleness about his power output.
Blistering nonetheless.
One of my goals this year is cracking 20 minutes for 10 miles, it is going to be hard. I think my best so far is 20:40 ish but there are two hills and if I just lose the 40 pounds of blubber, I'm surely going to do it. If I had one of those really fast bikes I might crack 19 minutes.
http://www.wisil.recumbents.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3986
I was going to steal my wife's stoker stem, cut down some old TT bars, and put some old mountain bike grips on. It would look similar to yours but even uglier. I have etap and several pairs of TT brake levers. I planned to rotate the other direction to free up space for the legs. Alas. I just can't afford the divorce.
That's the article I was thinking of. Strange, because I could have sworn that Sean rides an M1, not a NoCom. I noticed that his speed/power numbers at 27 mph are considerably better than mine. That may be due to differences in our power meters, or he's done a lot of tweaking to go so fast. I'm using a Gatorskin rear tire, which is supposed to be one of the slowest rolling tires out there. Definitely not something I'd choose for racing.
My ultimate goal is to beat the local 10 mile TT record, which stands at 29 mph. Nobody has been able to touch it, even when drafting. Because my endurance is so poor, records like that should be out of my reach, but with the M1, who knows...
Get a full sleeved skinsuit. Shave or put compression legs on. Mount GP5000 with latex tubes or GP TT. (I don't trust the Vittoria on a bent plus they wear out so fast). Helmets are another big area of improvement. No gloves.
s for the helmet, I've got the one Phil wore when setting his world records.
Is there a particular brand of skin suit you'd recommend? I've heard that some are "slipperier" than others.
Phil gave me several of his Schwalbe Ultremo racing tires. How do they compare to the GP5000?
As for the helmet, I've got the one Phil wore when setting his world records. At 30+ mph, you can really feel the lack of drag compared to a conventional helmet.
I forget your front wheel....it is a 406, right? I was thinking you had the bike like Larry with the larger wheel in the front.
I had a 406 front wheeled bent and tried the Ultremo and also Schwalbe Pro one tubeless. Those are probably your best choices although there is an unobtainum Michelin tire that is fast. I never did comparison testing because dismounting was such a pain. I suspected the Ultremo was faster but that would go against logic because famous people say it is the fastest. At the speeds you are going, the tire/rim interface is more important than a tiny bit of Crr. A 23 mm vs 25 mm can save you 10-25 watts on some rims at 30 mph whereas at 20 mph, the lower rolling resistence of a 25 mm wins for sure and of course a 28 is even better on real roads at the right pressure.
Here is a comparison test. I have a Velotec and also an Assos. The Assos is much more comfortable but a little slower on me than the velotec. I expected the velotec to be a lot faster but I suspect the fabric is optimized for DF and might not be ideal for the bent....not sure. I also have a short sleeved Castelli San Remo (it is too tight right now) and a winter weight long sleeve and long legged Castelli. The Castelli's zip in front to the waist and make access easier if say used on a long race. The Castelli's generally test pretty well on all riders from my wind tunnel test readings and also various TT forums, BUT, there really aren't many recumbent riders that I know who have done extensive wind tunnel tests. I use RChung protocol. There is a huge difference at racing recumbent speed to wearing a normal loose jersey and bibs to a skinsuit...more of an effect than a good set of wheels. It isn't that noticeable at 20-23 mph but up around 28+ mph, it is very, very obvious. It also shows up in CdA VE testing (Chung).
No idea which one would work best for you...sorry
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group-tests/best-skinsuits-for-cycling-360975