Vendetta V20 Build diary 2016

trapdoor2

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
ratz said:
All washers and spacers go on the drive side; and I would recommend using two wave washers

Your link is correct that's the 24x24 version. You want the Road one. It comes with different instructions and spacers appropriate for road applications. Chris will take good care of you and just let them know how you found them, and mention that I said you will need two wave washer for the install. http://enduroforkseals.com/id240.html
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I received my BB today (and my Rotor Cranks) but no wave washers. The "road" installation instructions don't mention them at all. I got three plastic spacers and two 24 X 1mm flat steel washers. I did get the neat torque tool...will have to scare up a foot/lb torque wrench...I have inch/lb but too small to do 25 ft/lb.

Of course, I have no frame yet. All academic until the V shows up. Been reading Q-ring setups in forum, etc. Difficult not to strip everything off of my V2/K and set it up with the new goodies.

===Marc
 
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B

bubbabent

Member
Ratz,
You did a fantastic job with this diary, very impressive and awesome components. I love the limited edition paint job too..wonder if they still have any of these left?
My wife is open to the frame kit idea just not sure I am ready to jump in yet, but that frame kit with that paint job may push me over the edge.
My components will not be so nice though if I get one.
 
Dave Arnold

Dave Arnold

Active Member
trapdoor2 said:
I received my BB today (and my Rotor Cranks) but no wave washers. The "road" installation instructions don't mention them at all. I got three plastic spacers and two 24 X 1mm flat steel washers. I did get the neat torque tool...will have to scare up a foot/lb torque wrench...I have inch/lb but too small to do 25 ft/lb.

Of course, I have no frame yet. All academic until the V shows up. Been reading Q-ring setups in forum, etc. Difficult not to strip everything off of my V2/K and set it up with the new goodies.

===Marc
Click to expand...

Marc, did the XD-15 BB come with the cup torque tool or did you purchase that separately?
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Dave Arnold said:
You mean tightened 1/4 turn after hand snug--right? Not loosened after hand snug.
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Make them hand tight where the allen wrench starts to flex (the long arm); then back off the tightness one quarter turn. That should hold nice and solid and not compress the BB Bearing cups. You can tell if they are too tight the Crank will free spin less than one and a half turns without the chain installed. It's really easy to make them too tight.

Dave Arnold said:
Marc, did the XD-15 BB come with the cup torque tool or did you purchase that separately?
Click to expand...
It's extra and it's well worth it as it's an offset tool that when used with a long arm torque wrench gets the torque in the center where it's need; definitely a tool I like having in the box.
 
trapdoor2

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
Dave Arnold said:
Marc, did the XD-15 BB come with the cup torque tool or did you purchase that separately?
Click to expand...
As Ratz said, it is extra...and rather than liking having it in the toolbox, it will be stashed away somewhere. When I desperately need it, I'll have to buy another just to find the first one. :confused:
 
Always-Learnin

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
ratz said:
Installing the cleat on to the shoe is simple, but futzy. The cleat is in three pieces: the cleat, the lock pad and the lock lifter. On the end of the cleat you will see an adjustment screw. Do not mess with that screw, it is factor set and frozen in place with red lock-tite. If you ever need to adjust that screw in the future due to cleat wear; you will need to heat the bolt with a soldering-iron to break the lock-tite loose. If you fail to do that you will just break your allen wrench attempting to turn the bolt.

Insert the lock pad into the cleat,

View attachment 2039

then put the lifter over the plate

View attachment 2040

Lastly the futzy part; hold the three pieces in your hand; flip them over and press them against the shoe. They will likely fall apart in your hand 7 or 8 times before you get them mounted.

I find it easiest to get them against the shoe by the arch and then slide the assembly forward and into place. Add blue lock-tite to the cleat screws and tighten down with the 2.5nm torque wrench in the most rearward position possible.

View attachment 2041

Always use the screws that came with the cleat not the ones with the shoes which are likely for SPD cleats and far too long. Also for any shoe do yourself a favor and get a 2.5nm torque wrench; that $9 tool will ensure you do not ruin your $150-200 shoes.

Now with it is time to go on an E-Tap hunt and in the meantime see if I can figure out a way to do the handle-bar testing without a drive train installed. Stay tuned you might just be witness to the first "fixie-V20"
Click to expand...
Thanks for this...I used your pics to install my cleats and modify my pedals. Installed them this afternoon. Tomorrow I give them their first test ride.
 
Dave Arnold

Dave Arnold

Active Member
ratz said:
...While these braze-ons are very useful; they do prevent the slider from being able to take up the full length of the boom. Because of this shorter riders will need to cut the boom to allow it to be inserted far enough for their X-seam.

Take the boom and mount into a proper vice and use a two inch pipe cutter to remove the appropriate amount of length from the end of the boom. Be sure to cut the Boom and not the slider.
Click to expand...

Bob, is this the cutter you would recommend?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Quick-Release-2-1-8-in-Tube-Cutter-80-773-111/204258905
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
ReklinedRider said:
You can drill out the braze-ons instead of cutting your boom. Braze ons can be replaced.
Click to expand...

There are three advantage of cutting.
1) It removes weight and the boom is so overly long you aren't going to make it less rigid.
2) Once it's shorter you can use the laser etching to measure you boom length adjustment. You may have noticed the laser marks are too far down the boom if you don't cut it.
3) You still get to use the boom water bottle.

Really the only person that won't cut it; is someone over 6'2 with a long chain stay; everyone else can shorten it a fair bit...

This is the price we pay for having a single standard part that fits everyone on two different models of bike. But it also means there are finally spares that aren't unicorns.
 
ReklinedRider

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
ratz said:
There are three advantage of cutting.
1) It removes weight and the boom is so overly long you aren't going to make it less rigid.
2) Once it's shorter you can use the laser etching to measure you boom length adjustment. You may have noticed the laser marks are too far down the boom if you don't cut it.
3) You still get to use the boom water bottle.

Really the only person that won't cut it; is someone over 6'2 with a long chain stay; everyone else can shorten it a fair bit...

This is the price we pay for having a single standard part that fits everyone on two different models of bike. But it also means there are finally spares that aren't unicorns.
Click to expand...
Yikes. Still gives me the willies to think about cutting the boom. Too much potential for someone like me to screw up.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
ReklinedRider said:
Yikes. Still gives me the willies to think about cutting the boom. Too much potential for someone like me to screw up.
Click to expand...
Common you know you want to.......

Seriously though with that husky pipe cutter it's so very simple, I would rate it safer than drilling out the Braze-on's

Cutting the fork steem is far far more terrifying the first time. You always remember your first time.
 
Tigerpaw

Tigerpaw

Well-Known Member
I was putting my new curved slider on tonight and the slider-boom clamp screw head snapped. Anyone know the size and type screw? Thanks in advance.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Ok It's probably going to be a few days before I can get the pictures (doing this to 4 bikes) but here's the lead. I have completed Parts swaps that take just shy of 1 pound off the nose of our V20's and 1.25 off the entire bike.

Here's the part changes.
1. Replace Power Tap P1 pedals with Vector V3
2. Replace Medium legacy chain stay with Modern Medium Chain stay
3. Chain BB from BB24gxp to BB30
4. Change Cranks from 153mm APEX custom cranks from Bike Smith to Rotor Aldhu 3d+ 150mm
5. Chain Ring from QXL A50/36 to Rotor Q ring Direct Mount Forge 52/36 rings
6. Replace 73mm reach round bars with 93mm reach aero bars that remain in aero orientation on the V20 and add 20mm of leg space at the hand bar

Lots of interesting stuff I got figured out doing PB's bike this weekend detailed photos when I do mine.

There was also T50 mischief but that goes in another thread
 
RojoRacing

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
I expect the color matching game to be on point, I gave it my best last week with the orange and black I expect you to keep the trend going.
 
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