Vosadrian's V20 Journey - Australia

[Mathew Fy]

Hi All,

Quick question. Currently I have my Garmin mounted at the clamp for the bars using the standard Garmin mount and bands. Unfortunately I find in this position I often knock it when sitting up to stop. I have had occasions where I somehow untwist it out of the mount and it falls on the ground (and once down a drain but lucky I could reach to get it out!!). I have also had times where I dislodged the rubber bands and lost them so had to put the Garmin in a pocket to complete the ride. Just asking here if there is a better solution. Obviously an up front mount could get it higher above the bars which would be good for visibility and no knocking it all the time, but presumably not great for Aero. I can't think of anything better than what I have for Aero. Maybe I just have to add a tether so I don't drop it and keep replacing the bands.

Make a boot to reduce aero losses.
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/what-do-i-do-with-to-much-time-on-my-hands.13539/#post-163786

 

[jond]

You mean none of you have had your Garmin implant yet. I’m shocked.

replace your loose Garmin mount with something newer. Yeah the tether might have to come out as you suggest. I’ve lost a 520 once.......that way. Loose mount. Replaced with something tighter. And a 520 plus.

 

[vosadrian]

I find I look at mine quite often for motivation to keep pushing. Is it visible in the under boom position? I also have the curved slider set in the low position which may make this location not visible at all. Will have to check that. Perhaps a Garmin watch wraped around the bars would be more secure?

The fairing for a top mounted garmin seems good. I might have to look into that. In the meantime I will add the tether. The position in centre of bars is good as long as I don't lose it.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Here is my Bolt connected under the boom with 2-sided tape. I had to sacrifice the included mount by chopping off the bar mount arm with a Dremel tool, leaving just the base of the mount connected to the frame with 2-sided tape. Now, the mount stays connected to the bike frame, so I can remove the unit for charging.

 

[vosadrian]

Hi All,

Just an update.

My bike now has a few non standard updates:

* Narrower handlebars were added a while back, but I have now cut them down a bit
* Added DI2 mostly using older bits I had (mostly 6770 stuff, but new R8050 RD and FD)
* Added my Roval wheels off my DF (temporarily). These wheels are wide, so a challenge to fit in callipers. Had to use worn pads instead of new that I got for this bike.

Just a photo update... looks much faster! I will try to give it a speed run to see if it is quicker over the next week or so.

 

[DavidCH]

Curious... didn't see the FD cable... did you run it inside the boom? FD didn't look wireless.

Looks fast. You will have some fun with that

 

[vosadrian]

All the electrical DI2 wiring is internal in the boom and chainstay, so it ends up being much neater than mech groupset. The battery is under the boom up near the handle bars on the underneath bottle mount (a hole drilled for cable to go in). I run an external battery as I had it spare, and I also have a second spare battery that I carry in my moose pack in case it goes flat.

I think the bike is quicker with these wheels, but I have only done one ride in windy conditions... so difficult to tell. It certainly did not feel like it took off a few kph faster or anything which would be nice. Probably more like 1kph faster will be more realistic when I get to test it on my normal loop.

I still have a few mods planned:

* 160mm crankset with 52/36 rings
* 11-34 cassette (with above should give me similar low end with better top end from what I have now)
* Brain box bag on back with bladder for hydration
* Some Yoeleo 88mm wheels (so I can return above wheels to my DF)

 

[Frito Bandito]

The bike is looking great Adrian. I like the ideas you listed for some future upgrades and I bet it is going to be faster once you get them done. With an 11-34 you are going to have a huge range for speed and climbing. I too am considering a Brain Bag and better wheels in the near future, but also a 53t on the front. I am not sure how often you spin out, and there have only been a few times where I spun out and could have used that extra tooth, but since you are faster than I am, it might not be a bad idea for a Frankensteined 53/36. I missed at least 1 KOM for sure because of only having a 52t. With the Yoleo 88s or a disc I can imagine you would be wanting an extra tooth more often than I would.

 

[vosadrian]

Yeah, that is a tough question Frito. I really need to maintain no longer than the 34-32 lowest combo I have now which is already a struggle on some hills around me. I could go something Frankensteined... or wickwerks 53-34.

I would really use something 53 or bigger on the front. Currently with the 50-11 combo I am comfortable pedalling to about 50kph. I can go to 55kph starting to feel I have too much cadence. It would be good to go to 60kph. 52 ring would add about 2kph to those speeds. 53 would add about 3kph.

I do like Shimano stuff for just working well (my quietest and smoother running groupsets are full shimano Ultegra and I often find compromises when I run a different chainring or something). But the main reason I want some extra top end is for KOMs . I ride in a pretty strong riding area of Sydney. KOMs I would go for on this bike are high speed as I am faster on my DF on lower speed segments (hills). Typically fast KOMs around me are taken by larger groups or TT bikes... often around that 50kph speed average, but you need to be able to push to 55-60 on downhill parts of the segment. Currently I have to coast once above 55 and I have lost out on getting KOMs due to this. Also, there is a section on a motorway near me which is several kms of 1-2% decline and in the right wind I can sit above 60kph for several kms... I have to work out the ideal gear set!

 

[Frito Bandito]

Yeah, the 50-34 is good for climbing but my V20 rarely does that, mostly by luck of where I live. Those are the dreams speeds for me. I've sat at 50kph for a few kms with a hefty tailwind and loved every second of it. But at 53 those days of +60kph on a similar motorway are fading too fast. The cranks on the V20 are pretty easy to swap out if you have the right chain. Maybe keeping a spare crankset would be a blast if it doesn't break the bank.

 

[vosadrian]

Unfortunately I need the climbing gears to get out of the area I live in... or I have to drive to a starting point. The first couple km of most of my rides has about 100m elevation including some descending, so up to 15-20% and some longer sections around 10%. Makes for a quick warm up!! One good thing is the average speed starts low, and then just keeps building throughout the ride.

Here is a segment I frequent: https://www.strava.com/activities/4214689263/segments/2753170323295877942

Just under 4km in just under 4 minutes (around 0.7% decline).... averaging 58kph and that is on my DF (aero road bike) which I can pedal to 60kph OK (52-11, but I can pedal higher cadence on the DF as it is more stable). If I could pedal the V20 to 65kph I would smash that time and probably take the KOM. It currently is held by a TT bike with an average speed of 63kph. Probably has a 56 front ring!!

 

[DavidCH]

If I could pedal the V20 to 65kph

Saving watts due to cda and power is a tradeoff with the horizontal boom setup. You might want to experience it more at an angle... you can offset the adjustment by putting the cleats more centred on the shoe by some adaptor plates.

 

[vosadrian]

Oh.... a quick question regarding the brake calipers.....

My bike came with FSA rim brake calipers which seem OK. I want to stick with rim brakes, but I am using fairly wide rims, so have to open the calipers up a fair bit. I am finding on the front they are opening up so much they interfere with the fork. The callipers are not far enough in front of the fork that they interfere with the fork. Has anyone solved this issue before? I could put some spacing washers at the caliper mount bolt to push the caliper a few mm forward, but not sure if that is the best solution?

 

[DavidCH]

You might want to swap out your front brake for this...


I used it for years with no trouble but I had it on good authority that disc brake front is better aero. Personally there is not much in it

 

[Frito Bandito]

Unfortunately I need the climbing gears to get out of the area I live in... or I have to drive to a starting point. The first couple km of most of my rides has about 100m elevation including some descending, so up to 15-20% and some longer sections around 10%. Makes for a quick warm up!! One good thing is the average speed starts low, and then just keeps building throughout the ride.

Here is a segment I frequent: https://www.strava.com/activities/4214689263/segments/2753170323295877942

Just under 4km in just under 4 minutes (around 0.7% decline).... averaging 58kph and that is on my DF (aero road bike) which I can pedal to 60kph OK (52-11, but I can pedal higher cadence on the DF as it is more stable). If I could pedal the V20 to 65kph I would smash that time and probably take the KOM. It currently is held by a TT bike with an average speed of 63kph. Probably has a 56 front ring!!

I think I'd blow my legs out with your warm up hahaha. Mine is on the flats so it takes me 10-15km or more to get warmed up. Jeezus! You have some racehorses in your area. You are pretty close to the KOM though. Hope you can snag that one when you are able to tame the V20 at those speeds. They are a bit skittish under heavy power and +60kph though Eh? I had a good tailwind and a 200m down hill at the beginning of a short KOM and my V20 stepped out a few times when I was not so careful with the pedals.

Edit: I think a couple washers will work, but low speed test the brakes first if you go that route. Or do as David wrote and get one of those

 

[ed72]

Oh.... a quick question regarding the brake calipers.....

My bike came with FSA rim brake calipers which seem OK. I want to stick with rim brakes, but I am using fairly wide rims, so have to open the calipers up a fair bit. I am finding on the front they are opening up so much they interfere with the fork. The callipers are not far enough in front of the fork that they interfere with the fork. Has anyone solved this issue before? I could put some spacing washers at the caliper mount bolt to push the caliper a few mm forward, but not sure if that is the best solution?

I had that problem with the TriRig brakes on a Cervelo upright. A wider/thicker serrated washer solved it. The Tririg comes with various spacers and longer bolts. Usually, you don't need too much additional space to clear the fork. I suspect that is all you need.

WRT big ring, I had a similar problem with a 53 on a 10 mile TT course that I was trying for second place. KoM was like 16 minutes and I think it was motorpaced. The thing I found with the 53 is that I could not really hold a steady position at speed, say 60-65 kph. A 56 helped me. In theory, a benefit of more stable position is the airflow especially over the front wheel.

 

[vosadrian]

In the case if the V20, I have trouble believing the disc brakes are more aero. I mean the calipers are out of the wind on a V20. I believe it on a DF where the caliper is out front. The disk brake option on a V20 sticks the caliper and disk out in the wind. Of course that is just a gut feel thing...

Frito, the issue for me witht he V20 at high speed is not my legs keeping up... it is just the coordination between arms and legs results in me not being as stable as I would like. I am sure it is the same for you. Perhaps if I do it more often I will get my coordination better and be able to do it well. For me 100 cadence at high speed is not maintainable for more then a quick sprint. 90 cadence is OK. But perhaps I have to work on technique.

I will try the brake spacer thing on the front caliper. At the moment I have worn pads in there so the calipers sit within the forks.... but that will only work until I need new pads!! .

 

[benphyr]

].... but that will only work until I need new pads!! .

Don't brake, then you will never need to replace them!

 

[jond]

In the case if the V20, I have trouble believing the disc brakes are more aero. I mean the calipers are out of the wind on a V20. I believe it on a DF where the caliper is out front. The disk brake option on a V20 sticks the caliper and disk out in the wind. Of course that is just a gut feel thing...

Frito, the issue for me witht he V20 at high speed is not my legs keeping up... it is just the coordination between arms and legs results in me not being as stable as I would like. I am sure it is the same for you. Perhaps if I do it more often I will get my coordination better and be able to do it well. For me 100 cadence at high speed is not maintainable for more then a quick sprint. 90 cadence is OK. But perhaps I have to work on technique.

I will try the brake spacer thing on the front caliper. At the moment I have worn pads in there so the calipers sit within the forks.... but that will only work until I need new pads!! .

cadence much easier with shorter cranks. Especially pertinent to a bent where shorter cranks are common. Still your 165 mm cranks go okay beast man.

with the brain bag looking at your bike photo I remain convinced that to stop the movement of the neckrest an innertube cut down and inflated slightly is the greatest thing. Do it. Do it now. You’ll be kicking yourself once you do . I did. Cheap and like your tyres your noggin is riding on air. Inflate to taste. Do it do it now. Try and n shape or m shape or u shape. I went with variation on n shape. Do it do it now. Merely roll up ends and zip ties holds well enough for proof. Stick valve out below neckrest. Do it do it now. Can you tell vossi that I like this cheap effective brilliant mod. ?

then with aluminium flat bar copy shape of the bag pocket using existing neckrest either a paddle shape or better simply frame neckrest using bag slip over. The brain bag has a pocket and an open pocket to slip over a seat back. You just need to emulate the seat back on the neckrest making bag dip below top of rest. Awesome do it do it now. See you later this month covid willing.

 

[vosadrian]

What are people using for short cranks. I see there is a shimano 105 160mm available, but seems pretty rare and hard to get... let alone in the rings you want.

OK.... OK, OK... I will try the inner tube... probably as part of the Brain bag fitting. I will try to get something going with the OEM neck rest. Not sure what you mean by the different shapes though? I have the brain bag in transit and a Camelbak bladder. That is the next job on the bike.