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I certainly don't have a better idea. But it may be a bit relative. :)

To find 12, top of pedal stroke, is really easy if you have cleats. It's where the pedal is when you pull it back towards you as far as possible with the steering straight. Once you have 12, you will then know where the other times are.

The boom and slider must have been trimmed to pull the cranks back far enough for the seat position. Only the inside tube needed trimming though. But it looks like you still enough outside-tube anyway.

I think your only option is rotating the slider on its axis. But that maybe enough help with slight body geometry issues.

Probably best to go with Cruzbike's own, because they are 31.8 clamp, and the right grip diameter for mountain components. https://cruzbike.com/collections/cruzbike-q45-accessories/products/wide-sweep-mountain-handlebar

I used a fatter tube on my Emeljay. It means you need to cut a squeeze groove to clamp it to the inner tube. I had to go with a bit thinner wall than I really wanted, otherwise the OD would have been to far over 1.5 inches to work. There are 1.5" stems available, and my OD ended up at 1.51". It...

Check out "scooter clamps" as a possible alternative. They come in 1 1/4", and multi-bolt options.

See if you can find a way to move your seat back a few more inches. Then you can shorten up the slider tube. You can also raise your cranks higher if you can manage that. But an Emeljay mod may be more useful still!

Another way to look at it would be that if you pull or push the cranks to the side of the power stroke, you are basically lengthening your power stroke. This is because the distance from hip to pedal is shortened, allowing for a bit push before the power stroke ends.

Ideally your pushing and pulling are matched. So having your bars wide enough to have your hands outside your knees gives you the extra leverage your arms need. You can bring your hands in, but then you have a tougher time matching the two, while getting full power.

Might be worth a new thread, but I would love to know what you found best for the anti-torque? Did you use the anti-twist nuts, or use torque bars?

I have two T's. One configured each way. The moment arm is the biggest difference I notice. The more upright one I can ride no-hands, while the Emeljay'd one, forget it. It's a bit to twitchy if I try and ride no hands.

Short wheelbase with no heel-strike. :)

Something else you might consider is to rotate the seat mounting plate 180 degrees, and set the seat as far rear-ward as possible. You will get a tiny bit more nose-up, but much more cockpit room, lower seating position, and higher bottom bracket. May need to cut a little more of the brace or...

These types of things have been bolted to mountain bikes for years. Lots of different mounting methods. I think some even mount under the external bearing, so clamped in that way. They can be sprung or un-sprung. In fact, they usually are un-sprung.

Idler wheel behind the crankset should do it just fine. That's the optimum place when belts are used on mountain bikes. There are even sprung ones for full suspension. Like on the Zerode mountain bikes. https://zerodebikes.com/blog/zerode-carbon-drive Since chain guides are already standard...

If you splicing on a rear triangle, make sure your axle is wide enough to extend through both dropouts. Otherwise you would be applying to much force to just the skewer, and it distort or break.

That is awesome!

Technically, it is only the bb-shell and lower boom tube that needs replacing. The rest of the front triangle is likely fine. I think that part is still identical on the T50, but may not be available separately.

If you trim off the folded ends with the screw holes, you could join the upper and lower parts with a short piano hinge. That would not only be strong, but articulate easily for adjustment.