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Probably no reason for it, but it sure looks like you could even go with a longer shock if you wanted. Just give it a bit more sag when setting it up.

Ride carefully. You do need exercise, but no need to push hard. Recovery days are not what you want, just exercise.

3D printing, and wire bending time! :) Someone could take this on who has the 3D printing capability. But just a block of wood or plastic with some carving might do it. Old coat hanger for wire. The T50 has that as well.

On my T50 I rotated the seat mounting plate 180. So the bolt slots are then longer towards the rear, for sliding the seat back. So my seat is now lower and further back on the bike. Might be able to do a similar thing on the Q. Might be overly nose-up though. The little mounting arm things would...

Check this out. It is just a tiny piece that changes the cable actuation for mountain derailleurs to work with road brifters. https://bikerumor.com/2020/02/07/how-to-hack-a-sram-road-group-with-eagle-derailleur-for-massive-budget-mullet-gearing/

I'll report when they arrive. parts are trickling in slowly. I just got some bullhorns today. Will use them inverted to mount the road levers on in a usable position. This is rather experimental. I have no idea if I will like it, but it was not a huge expense to find out. :)

Cruzbikes are pretty easy to work on with just the front up in the air, because of the powertrain all being in the front. So any stand that is made for regular bikes can clamp the boom, up towards the headset end to clear the cranks, and provide a very solid solution. Leave the rear on the...

Check out this new Sensah cyclocross mini group Brifters and long cage, woohoo! It can take up to a 50 tooth. Only the rear is actually a brifter. The front is look-a-like. But apparently you can get 2 by 11 with long cage as well...

I'll take some better photos when I have it off the bike again. Here is a quicky. Note that I did have to do a bunch of filing to get stuff right. This particular adjustable stem used a single bult to lock both clamps. If I do it again, I will use a steerer clamp with it's clamp separate from...

I used an oversized tube for mine. So it slides over the existing frame tube. That meant I had to cut a squeeze groove and find a 1.5 inch stem. The clamp is a work in progress. I had some random things that I manage to get together. You want to make your clamp as stiff as possible, and also...

You should just try it both ways. :) There is the potential that your legs will be flexing the riser more, simply because it's a longer lever that way. Having the clamp just at the the top of the steerer makes the riser the shortest lever possible for your legs. But if you have your handlebars...

It was an older design, similar to the forks on the T50 now. But it also included a headshock like setup that gave around an inch of travel.

I found that if I was 5mm to short, my starting knee got really sore. Pushing off from a stop is often the hardest strain.

Wouldn't those be swaged? You would need to remove the head, as it is wider than the hole, if that is the case.

A tiny, tiny T50 could be both a balance bike and a first pedal bike at the same time! :)

You have no heal-strike issues on an MBB. You can use any crank arm length you want! :)

You could use a tether to pull against. ;)

The rear changes angle independently of the base. It is basically "hinged". The Thor seat is rigid, and so tilting it more upright effects the base as well. It may also be that angling the Thor as high as you are after might make the upper part overly steep. Those seats have a shallower angle in...

The aluminum seat you have already is far more adjustable in that regard. Mainly because the back can tilt independent of the bottom.

My quality of life has improved 600% since dropping front mechs some years ago! ;)