Search results

Regarding the specific cable/hydro brakes mentioned in this thread, they seem engineered for it. "TRP tests its Hy/Rd cable actuated hydraulic brakes to the point where rotors get red hot. With a substantial metal body, the calipers act as an effective heat sink. The company has also developed...

That is actually why Shimano didn't release hydraulic road discs until they had developed their Ice rotors with extra fins. Road bikes generally produce way more heat than mountain bikes because of the speeds. It is probably not much of an issue these days, especially for knowledgable riders.

I would think the cable/hydro might have a bit more "boil" problem, as there is much less fluid in them, and it's only right there in the calliper.

Be safe! Hopefully it will weaken a bit more before it hits.

If you are using SRAM trigger pods, I found a good method is to actually wrap your index finger around the small lever, and pull up. This lets you set the pods up much higher, as you can usually still do the big lever with your thumb.

I would be very doubtful of the value for Cruzbike to design a boom system in-between the two they currently have. Although it is quite nice, and was one of my main criteria. It is a less stiff and heavier design than that of the Cruzbike boom. With the pivots and offsets of the connection...

From the not-terribly-accurate bathroom scale method, it's around 30 pounds. The pivot clamp may loose a few ounces at some point. The seat and assembly could replaced with something much lighter. I like the durability of the aluminum seat though. I'm keeping an eye out for an old aluminum...

It's not light! Have not weighed it. The front ring is a 44 tooth narrow wide. With the 11 speed SRAM 10-42 cassette, thats about 27 to 116 gear inches. There is maybe clearance for a 48 tooth, but I think a 52 would hit the chainstay with my current chainline offset. I'm using a BMX crank with...

They are small. Definitely for luggage. I was kind of hoping the seat struts might be able to attach there, but they are smaller holes, so no.

It's alive!!!! Evening here, and not fully tuned yet, so just rode around the neighborhood a bit. Pretty nice! :)

Mark,I think that bottom bracket clevis clamp is pretty standard on many low-end duallies. So find a cheap donor to give you the bits to weld in a new section. Keep the original part safe. It would need some narrowing as part of the re-building process.

This is actually going to mainly be for around town, and some longer rides. Not going for speed, and just using mountain shifters. Only need the right side. No front derailleur for me ever again! I do not like front derailleurs.

Yep. They are 700 by 28. Just enough clearance to fit comfortably at the fork. I found the 11 speed wheelset with a SRAM 10-42 cassette in the Goodwill last year. So a tiny fix later, I had a really nice wheelset for dirt cheap. I have planned the whole build around them. You'll notice that I...

Some bits of significance. I had to watch Ebay for a bit to get the right 1.5 inch stem at a good price. Someone got the first one I found. 1.5 inch was made for downhill and freeride, but is not super common. I rotated the seat base 180 to get the seat lower with nose up a bit (better...

I have most of my parts now, and have figured out a 1.5 inch pivot and boom clamp.

Might be worth treating yourself to a T50 as well! ;) That old Sofrider may not be worth the hassle.

Yep. Smaller pedaling circles. I am trying 160s on my new bike that I am building, and 155's on my old Sofrider because the seat sits higher already.

You can get four bolt 104 BCD narrow wide rings all the way up to 52. So if you're OK with a Shimano mountain type crank, you're good.

But someone did do it anyway!

Very cool! I have now tested flipping the seat-mounting plate 180 degrees. It effectively moves the seat position back a bit. So there is an option to get a little more "room", and a higher bottom bracket height.