Ol'Yellow get a New Facelift after 11.6K Miles

[Rick Youngblood]

After 11,582 miles on Ol'Yellow it is/was time for an update.

I went out on a limb and decided to go 11 speed...boy did I have a lot to learn about the new incompatibilities...Road vs MTB...SRAM vs Shimano...10 vs 11...and all of the other issues of "this will work but that won't, unless you do this to make it work". What I knew about 9 vs 10, was all thrown out the window, and even more so now.

Of course I try and read as much as I can here on the board which is dependable learning tool with great info I can bank on...thanks guys.

The center of my rebuild is a custom wheelset build in-which I'm totally psyched about. This is my first professionally wheel build and the most expensive $'s I've ever paid for a set of wheels. I wanted light but with disc, and non-aero.

Hubs: Industry Nine Torch CX Disc Road 24 spoke count
Rims: Pacenti SL25 Disc only
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray 2.0 / .9 -2.2 aero
@ 1558 grams
​

TRP HY RD in polished aluminum, with 140mm rotors front and rear.

ISSUE: The rear 140mm rotor touched the frame...not the weld, but the frame. I tried adding 2 1mm hub spacers, which only got me 1.5mm clearance. So I ended up with one 4mm hub spacer which was perfect.
Next Issue: I had to end up manually centering the calipers to the rotors because they would not center using the standard method...I setup many hydroponic systems on my MTB and Metabike without issues. In the end I was able to get them centered and working properly. I love the polished aluminum look BTW>
​

I went with SRAM Force Brifters...just couldn't Force myself to spend the Xtra to go Red.

Cassette: SeqLite S-11 Lightest 11 Speed 11-42 and Shimano XT 11-42. This is were I need to do some testing and experimenting. These two cassettes are different widths. I'm told the Shimano is the same width as a 10 speed cassette (I have not verified this yet) and the SeqLite is the same width as the new 11 speed road cassettes. WHY OH WHY do they do this?? Neither one of these cassettes would mount on the Torch hub without the 10 speed spacer installed first.

The SeqLite would wobble, yes tighten down and no play, but seemed as though it would not seat flush against the free hub body...but add the spacer and it was fine...BUT then the 11 tooth cog would rub against the chain stay. NOTE: I'm going to experiment with a 1 mm free hub spacer. I like the lightness of this cassette over the Shimano.

The Shimano XT cassette could NOT be tighten down without play, but seated against the free Hub without wobble. It defiantly needed the 1.85 mm 10 speed spacer in place to get tightened down...BUT it too rubbed the chainstay. Which I eliminated with a little mill work.

What a freak'n pain in the backside this was.
​

Tires: Pro One Tubeless mounted without issues.

​

New Vinyl decals

I wanted to experiment with a new look for a new build - A sort of Retro look with 3-4 color scheme. Drive side is 3 color scheme and non-drive side is a more bold color scheme with 4 color scheme.

I have my favorite and will convert both sides to the same scheme.
​

All in all I like the new re-build...everything looks and works great. Shifting works better than before, it needed to as I'm very picky when it comes to shifting.









Drive side color scheme







Non-drive side decals

 

[1happyreader]

oh my, very pretty.

 

[Tigerpaw]

After 11,582 miles on Ol'Yellow it is/was time for an update.

I went out on a limb and decided to go 11 speed...boy did I have a lot to learn about the new incompatibilities...Road vs MTB...SRAM vs Shimano...10 vs 11...and all of the other issues of "this will work but that won't, unless you do this to make it work". What I knew about 9 vs 10, was all thrown out the window, and even more so now.

Of course I try and read as much as I can here on the board which is dependable learning tool with great info I can bank on...thanks guys.

The center of my rebuild is a custom wheelset build in-which I'm totally psyched about. This is my first professionally wheel build and the most expensive $'s I've ever paid for a set of wheels. I wanted light but with disc, and non-aero.

Hubs: Industry Nine Torch CX Disc Road 24 spoke count
Rims: Pacenti SL25 Disc only
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray 2.0 / .9 -2.2 aero
@ 1558 grams
​

TRP HY RD in polished aluminum, with 140mm rotors front and rear.

ISSUE: The rear 140mm rotor touched the frame...not the weld, but the frame. I tried adding 2 1mm hub spacers, which only got me 1.5mm clearance. So I ended up with one 4mm hub spacer which was perfect.
Next Issue: I had to end up manually centering the calipers to the rotors because they would not center using the standard method...I setup many hydroponic systems on my MTB and Metabike without issues. In the end I was able to get them centered and working properly. I love the polished aluminum look BTW>
​

I went with SRAM Force Brifters...just couldn't Force myself to spend the Xtra to go Red.

Cassette: SeqLite S-11 Lightest 11 Speed 11-42 and Shimano XT 11-42. This is were I need to do some testing and experimenting. These two cassettes are different widths. I'm told the Shimano is the same width as a 10 speed cassette (I have not verified this yet) and the SeqLite is the same width as the new 11 speed road cassettes. WHY OH WHY do they do this?? Neither one of these cassettes would mount on the Torch hub without the 10 speed spacer installed first.

The SeqLite would wobble, yes tighten down and no play, but seemed as though it would not seat flush against the free hub body...but add the spacer and it was fine...BUT then the 11 tooth cog would rub against the chain stay. NOTE: I'm going to experiment with a 1 mm free hub spacer. I like the lightness of this cassette over the Shimano.

The Shimano XT cassette could NOT be tighten down without play, but seated against the free Hub without wobble. It defiantly needed the 1.85 mm 10 speed spacer in place to get tightened down...BUT it too rubbed the chainstay. Which I eliminated with a little mill work.

What a freak'n pain in the backside this was.
​

Tires: Pro One Tubeless mounted without issues.

​

New Vinyl decals

I wanted to experiment with a new look for a new build - A sort of Retro look with 3-4 color scheme. Drive side is 3 color scheme and non-drive side is a more bold color scheme with 4 color scheme.

I have my favorite and will convert both sides to the same scheme.
​

All in all I like the new re-build...everything looks and works great. Shifting works better than before, it needed to as I'm very picky when it comes to shifting.

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Drive side color scheme

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Non-drive side decals

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That tailbox is the bomb!!!

 

[DavidCH]

Tires: Pro One Tubeless mounted without issues.

You're kidding me? I spent most of today on this. Luv the soft rubber. It feels really grippy. I am not going to give in. I tried the inner tube but I pinched it when trying to get the darn tire on. Now I have it enwrapped with a straight jacket with plastic ties and just going to the local garage to try the compressor on it.

 

[KneeDrachen]

Gorgeous wheels!

 

[LarryOz]

ONE of a kind Rick - You are a master as always with whatever you try!
Kudos to you

 

[Rick Youngblood]

You're kidding me? I spent most of today on this. Luv the soft rubber. It feels really grippy. I am not going to give in. I tried the inner tube but I pinched it when trying to get the darn tire on. Now I have it enwrapped with a straight jacket with plastic ties and just going to the local garage to try the compressor on it.

David, what rim are you mounting these on? What's the issue, mounting or airing up and seating the bead?

Installing these on the rims were actually less difficult than doing a tubed version.

I was able mount the first bead with my hands. The second bead, I used the Kool stop tire bead jack https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Ti...1480019714&sr=8-20&keywords=Cycle+tire+levers

They inflated right up with the compressor. I could hear both beads pop into the seats. They've held air over the last 3 days without issues.

 

[Tigerpaw]

You're kidding me? I spent most of today on this. Luv the soft rubber. It feels really grippy. I am not going to give in. I tried the inner tube but I pinched it when trying to get the darn tire on. Now I have it enwrapped with a straight jacket with plastic ties and just going to the local garage to try the compressor on it.

CO2 inflator will work. Also, the Bomtrager Flash pump is awesome!

 

[DavidCH]

Well I guess I just wanted to get the beads seated without putting any sealant in.

It's a dry run for when I head over to Florida in February. I don't want sealant everywhere in the plane.



Might just order up that Bontrager flash pump.

I am trying to put the pro one on a Bontrager aura 5 wheel.

The last tubeless tyre was friggin difficult. Even the local expert took about 4 attempts and sealant going this way and that.

Oh well fingers crossed. I guess I could get the hair dryer out and heat the rubber a bit ?

 

[DavidCH]

Hey Rick!!!! Love those wheels! Serious Bling there for sure

 

[ChaleJake]

Work of Art. Very, very nice and super easy on the eyes.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Well I guess I just wanted to get the beads seated without putting any sealant in.

It's a dry run for when I head over to Florida in February. I don't want sealant everywhere in the plane.



Might just order up that Bontrager flash pump.

I am trying to put the pro one on a Bontrager aura 5 wheel.

The last tubeless tyre was friggin difficult. Even the local expert took about 4 attempts and sealant going this way and that.

Oh well fingers crossed. I guess I could get the hair dryer out and heat the rubber a bit ?

Hey David, I remember Ratz having a problem with Bontrager wheels and what I thought may have been Ones or pro ones????

 

[DavidCH]

Hey David, I remember Ratz having a problem with Bontrager wheels and what I thought may have been Ones or pro ones????

Your pro ones look like the 28mm ...

Haven't tried the hair dryer yet - might just take it to a pro and get him to seat the beads.

 

[Bruce B]

Outstanding! The color scheme really completes the job.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Your pro ones look like the 28mm ...

Haven't tried the hair dryer yet - might just take it to a pro and get him to seat the beads.

Yeah, 28's.

 

[ReklinedRider]

Absolutely gorgeous Rick! Both color schemes are eye-popping...how on earth can you choose one over the other Those Pacenti's look amazing especially with the brushed aluminum TRP's....all your study and work sure paid off on every detail, too many to mention. Great work!

 

[ratz]

Hey David, I remember Ratz having a problem with Bontrager wheels and what I thought may have been Ones or pro ones????

My problem was being too cheap to replace the rim strips with fresh ones when mounting Schwalbe One's
That an that One's didn't stay mounted when deflated which is not cool

 

[ak-tux]

Non-drive side decals

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Goodness gracious! Your bike is beautiful! Cruzbike should add that theme option to the V20 lineup maybe a YV20! At what point would you use the 42t sprocket?!

 

[super slim]

Rick, another stunning build!

I like the graphics on the non drive side the best!

What is the braking like compared to rim brakes?

 

[Rick Youngblood]

At what point would you use the 42t sprocket?!

The 42t cog comes in handy on steep hill climbs here in Redding California.

What is the braking like compared to rim brakes?

Do to bad weather and rain I'm not able to do any type of extensive riding, like getting into the hills yet. But what I can say is they do not lock up the wheel, which I find odd. I've ran Shimana hydros on my my Metabike and MTB, and they would definitely lock the wheels. They also feel a little spongy. I may need to explore and research these brakes and find out why.