T50 - whatcha planning to build.....

[Gromit]

I have ordered a T50 frameset. Black frame + Black assembly.

Initially I plan to build the bike up with the unmodified frameset parts.

I will use a drop handlebar together with the following other parts:-
Controltech RA-540DB-6 Alloy Road Bar 42cm - black. (to be decided)
On-One Midge Handlebar - black. (to be decided)
SRAM Rival brake levers/shifter (Rival 22 front brake lever/gear shifter and Rival 1 rear brake lever).
SRAM Apex 1 GXP Road Single Chainset 42T with 165mm cranks.
SRAM Alloy GXP Road-MTB Bottom Bracket English thread 68/73mm.
SRAM Rival 1 Derailleur - Long Cage.
Shimano SLX 11-Speed MTB Cassette (CS-M7000-11 (bs)) 11-40T as it will fit the 8/9/10/11 speed MTB (35mm wide) freehub on my rear wheel.
SRAM PC-1110 11 Speed Chain.
TRP Spyre mechanical 160mm disc brakes (post mount with 6 hole discs) front and rear.
26" Disc Brake Wheel Set with black 20 mm (intl) rims (25 mm extl) - 32 spokes.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres 26" x 1.5" (40-559).

To get the drop handlebars into a suitable position, I'll use a reversed stem (pointing towards me). I have plenty of different length options in my cycle spares box.

At a later date, I intend to do an Emeljay mod on the T50's front end and fit a Thor Seats Easy seat. Like the the one done by rx7mark (linked just below).
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/my-t50-emeljay-mod.12463/

I did in fact do the Emeljay mod on the T50's front end post initial build and fitted a carbon fibre seat from Ocean Cycle (Ventisit seat pad) to create a poor man's Silvio.
Here's my thread all about it.
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/another-t50-emeljay-mod-carbon-seat-conversion.13713/

Edit: Added link to Emeljay conversion thread.

 

[Rampa]

A simple mod I did that made a big difference in getting nice fit was to reverse the mounting plate under the seat. Then I can slide the seat further back in the grooves of the plate. It did raise the nose of the seat a tad, so you need to make sure it is slid as far back as possible to minimize that.

It allows the cranks to get a little higher, as you are moved back and down a few inches if you do it.

 

[Gromit]

A simple mod I did that made a big difference in getting nice fit was to reverse the mounting plate under the seat. Then I can slide the seat further back in the grooves of the plate. It did raise the nose of the seat a tad, so you need to make sure it is slid as far back as possible to minimize that.

It allows the cranks to get a little higher, as you are moved back and down a few inches if you do it.

Thanks for the information, Rampa. A useful tip.

 

[rx7mark]

A simple mod I did that made a big difference in getting nice fit was to reverse the mounting plate under the seat. Then I can slide the seat further back in the grooves of the plate. It did raise the nose of the seat a tad, so you need to make sure it is slid as far back as possible to minimize that.

It allows the cranks to get a little higher, as you are moved back and down a few inches if you do it.

I reversed my seat bracket also when mounting my Thor seat. This allowed me to move the Thor back about 4 inches.

I would have preferred a longer chain stay, but without that this is the only way to raise the BB to get my feet higher relative to the seat.

The negative part of doing this is there is less weight on the front tire. I only notice this on steep climbs, or starting on a hill, and going over bumps, especially during cornering.

Mark

 

[Gromit]

I've bought another pair of handlebars to try when I set up my T50. The On-One Midge Handlebar - Black.
I'll be using drop bar type, shifter/brake levers on my Silvio-alike.

I had earlier bought a pair of handlebars very similar in shape to the ones on my diamond-frame racing bike, Controltech RA-540DB-6 Alloy Road Bar 42cm - black. The ends of the bars are vertical but otherwise they are rather similar in shape to the Midge bars. The ends of the Midge bars flare outwards at 113 degrees. On my racing bike, my arms are almost straight with little bend at the elbows but on the T50 Silvio-alike, my elbows will be bent at close to 90 degrees and I guess that this will naturally turn my wrists out? Thoughts?
The Midge bars look very similar in shape to the ones supplied with the S40 and I've also seen them mentioned favourably in posts on the "Road Series" (Silvio) part of the forum.

Anyhow, I'll have both types of handlebar available to try when I eventually do the T50 build / bike fit.

Sadly, due partially to the corona virus, I'm still waiting for some parts including the T50 frameset to arrive.
I've received the wheels, tyres, tubes, cassette and TRP Spyre disc calipers and discs, Controltech and Midge handlebars, SRAM Apex 1 crankset and GXP BB, SRAM Rival brifters and derailleur and the chain. Waiting on some brake cables.

The wheels are now built-up, ready to roll.

Edit: Updated parts received.

 

[Gromit]

I've bought (and received) a B+M CycleStar mirror as I agree with Cruzbike that they are the best mirrors on the market.
Made by the same company in Germany who make the mirrors for BMW motorcycles.
This will be fitted on the off-side of my handlebars (closest to the centre of the road).

On the other side (near-side) of my handlebars, I'll fit a Zefal Spy mirror which I found in my cycle spares box. The lens on that is chromed plastic so not as clear as the CycleStar's toughened glass lens. Useful though to spot anything happening behind me on the kerb (curb) side of the road.

 

[Gromit]

I've received my new, T50 frameset. It looks great. The black paint finish looks excellent and the welding under the paint all looks well executed.
The T50 frameset box says, "Made in Taiwan", on it.

The frame number is stamped on the underside of the plate where the kickstand would be bolted on (in front of the rear wheel).
Four digits on the left of the large hole for the kickstand’s bolt and another three digits to the right of the same hole.

I'm still waiting for some longer brake cables to arrive but will start the build anyhow.

 

[skankingbiker]

lets see some build pics

 

[Gromit]

lets see some build pics

My T50 as built and ridden since early June. I used the On-One Midge handlebars and cut down the steerer extension tube by 100mm. The reversed stem is a 120mm long one. Handlebar grips are foam rubber rather than wrapped with handlebar tape as I'm intending to do an Emeljay mod so I may have to alter the cable lengths.
The stability of the steering is very good. Better than my Quest V2 or my Sofrider. Though that's from memory as it's a long time since I rode either, especially the Sofrider.

Gromits_T50 - 1

• Gromit
• Jul 3, 2020

Gromit's T50 as built.

Gromits_T50 - 2

• Gromit
• Jul 3, 2020

Gromit's T50 as built

Some weeks later I did an Emeljay mod on the T50's front end and fitted a carbon fibre seat from Ocean Cycle (Ventisit seat pad) to create a poor man's Silvio.
Here's my thread all about it.
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/another-t50-emeljay-mod-carbon-seat-conversion.13713/

Edit: Added link to Emeljay conversion thread.

 

[Mrnelson]

Ah that would be because I didn't post the unfinished bike. You are correct it changed between the KS run and the stock run. (For others following along, If you had to cut your riser and fork steam then you have post run) In this case the Red bike has the post run, and the yellow has the KS run. I swapped them as the yellow was started first and I didn't feel like cutting the fork.

I'm sure the clamp was engineered for strength in this new design, (the old ones where symmetric). But I don't know that it matters until you get to the 300watt power range. I do know that the boom is designed for the angled side to be up. So you should probably flip your clamp. On the old Quests you couldn't get it confused because it had marks on the boom to indicate how far you have it inserted, it you put it angle side down; then you couldn't read the etching.

The other two changes where that the lock clamp visible on the yellow between the boom clamp and the adjustable head spacer was dropped in the post kickstarter run; and the slider clamp changed from a quick release to a bolt only design.

View attachment 7921 View attachment 7922 View attachment 7923

I bought my T50 used but seeing this I'm pretty sure it was built incorrectly. Based on this photo, any advice? My thought is to take it in in the winter, have my local bike shop flip the top clamp piece and re-route the cables (my own ability is limited to cleaning drive-trains and changing tires. I don't have have the tools or talent or bike stand to do anymore).

It's not hurting anything the way it is, yes? Thanks. (terrible phone pic, tell me if you need a better one!)

 

[Brad R]

I bought my T50 used but seeing this I'm pretty sure it was built incorrectly. Based on this photo, any advice? My thought is to take it in in the winter, have my local bike shop flip the top clamp piece and re-route the cables (my own ability is limited to cleaning drive-trains and changing tires. I don't have have the tools or talent or bike stand to do anymore).

It's not hurting anything the way it is, yes? Thanks. (terrible phone pic, tell me if you need a better one!)

you are correct.
it is not hurting anything the way it is.
Use zip ties to position the cables if they run on your legs.

 

[Mrnelson]

you are correct.
it is not hurting anything the way it is.
Use zip ties to position the cables if they run on your legs.

Great, thank you. I'll make it a winter improvement project.

 

[DavidJL]

Just got done electrifying my MLJ modded T50 with a rear wheel drive hub motor. Can climb hills about three times faster now. Went to 1-by gearing. Setup has throttle for starting assistance and power assist pedaling. When T50e was offered, I already had a T50.

 

[dule0911]

Can you share some more details about the electric assist setup you have? Motor/battery/controller etc...

Actively looking into electrifying my Q45, so learning as much as I can. My current favourite is a partial kit from ebikes.ca, the battery and maybe motor I'll source in Europe, the shipping is too expensive for such small parts.

 

[Bikenutjay]

Hi everyone ,
I have a question about the T 50 rear break .
the rear caliper and disk are not correct ( in my option) the disk is 140 mm .
the mount is ( 0 mm IS )
It is on correctly and the arrow pointing forward
the adapter seams to be the wrong one by the way it is lining up near the outside of the disk.
I did not put it together . I just got it Thursday and put the basic parts together and cleaning it up .
The bike is a complete model from the factory . So I don't think some one built it from a frame set .
Any Ideas .
Thanks Jay

 

[Brad R]

Hi everyone ,
I have a question about the T 50 rear break .
the rear caliper and disk are not correct ( in my option) the disk is 140 mm .
the adapter seams to be the wrong one by the way it is lining up near the outside of the disk.
I did not put it together . I just got it Thursday and put the basic parts together and cleaning it up .
The bike is a complete model from the factory . So I don't think some one built it from a frame set .
Any Ideas .
Thanks Jay
View attachment 11562 View attachment 11563

a lot of brake mounts are reversible with one direction for 160mm and the other for 140mm.

if you have that type of mount, it might need to be reversed.

 

[Bikenutjay]

I will see if that is It .
Thanks jay

Tried it didn't make any difference

avid BB5 breaks and mounts
the front is fine with the ( 20mm IS ) mount and the 160 disk

 

[JerseyJim]

the adapter seams to be the wrong one by the way it is lining up near the outside of the disk.

I built mine up from a frameset and the brakes I used mounted perfectly (TRP Spyke) with 160 mm rotors. From the gap in your picture it looks like your brake caliper has an adapter spaced for a 160 mm rotor. I've also heard of people needing different washers for Avid brake mounts but I don't have first hand experience with them on the T50.

The front and rear disc adapters are also different, but usually that's pretty apparent when you mount them. If your front one is fine the one that remains has to be the rear.

While this was not part of your question, I'd say that as good as Avid BB5/BB7 mechanical calipers were back in the day, the TRP Spyke/Spyre dual piston mechanical calipers feel and perform much better and are better value for money. Their feel is almost as good as hydraulic without the hydraulic maintenance headaches.

 

[Bikenutjay]

Hi everyone ,
I have a question about the T 50 rear break .
the rear caliper and disk are not correct ( in my option) the disk is 140 mm .
the mount is ( 0 mm IS )
It is on correctly and the arrow pointing forward
the adapter seams to be the wrong one by the way it is lining up near the outside of the disk.
I did not put it together . I just got it Thursday and put the basic parts together and cleaning it up .
The bike is a complete model from the factory . So I don't think some one built it from a frame set .
Any Ideas .
Thanks Jay
View attachment 11562 View attachment 11563

This morning I pulled the wheel and put on one of my Mavic disk wheel with 160mm
Disk and set the caliper . That fixed the problem with the rear brake , until
I get the new disk for the other wheel ( that I just ordered )
Got to ride the Bike today around a parking lot .
3 minutes and I am off lapping the lot and doing figure 8 .
Stop and starts up and down hills .
I like this bike easy to ride in 30 minutes I was relaxed .
Thanks Jay

 

[Bikenutjay]

So I got the new 160 mm disk and that fixed the rear brake.
Went for a ride today on the T50 .
Second ride on the bike spd pedals , no mods yet still fitting and adjusting
the bike .
42 miles on the trail and roads in my neighborhood.
Not to bad just a little recumbut .
Looking at the handle bars and changing the seat to the carbon from
Ice Trike that I have .
thanks Jay