Unless you are trying to get over really steep stuff or trying to set climbing PRs, I can't imagine an extra 1-2kg is going to make much difference to anyone. On my DF which is 7kg, I was using that bike for climbing PRs. I was trying to find an extra 10 seconds reduction on a 8-10 minute climb and a kg makes a difference for that, so I got weight weenie with that bike. On the V where I am not trying to set times up hills, but trying to get good average speed over loops that have rolling hills... I may lose a few seconds going up a pinch and gain a few going back down. At the end of a 2 hour loop... maybe there is a 10-15 seconds difference which is not enough to bother me. On a longer Audax >10 hour ride, I would think it would make even less difference to the result.... unless the ride includes some alpin climbs.
Tubes or tubeless
- Thread starter CruzLike
- Start date
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Just saw this on BROL, which was linked from Slowtwitch...
https://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Things_that_Roll/Tires/Sealant_Test_-_Part_2_4155.html
https://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Things_that_Roll/Tires/Sealant_Test_-_Part_2_4155.html
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I suppose it could happen. The Bontrager TRL sealant seems to be the best one for butyl tubes though as it was reported in that article that it seals the fastest, on par with the latex tubes. And I just bought a bottle of Stan's for my rear tire too "Doh"
Gary Hudson
Active Member
Exactly what I wanted. Thanks!
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
For the rear of my V20 on fast days I have 2 options. 80mm Bullet with Schwalbe Pro One full tubeless, and 50mm Bullet with Michelin Power Competition is tubed with sealant. I couldn't get the Michelin to seat on the rim so put a tube in and filled it with about half a bottle of Stans.
For training I have 25mm Marathon on Sciroccos that are tubed with sealant. I'll rotate them so the sealant doesn't harden and those should get me through the year easily. I also just changed the bearings on the 80mm Bullets so it is rolling smoothly. Instead of buying an expensive bearing tool to swap the bearings I spent about $5.00 on a bolt, a nut and 2 washers.
For training I have 25mm Marathon on Sciroccos that are tubed with sealant. I'll rotate them so the sealant doesn't harden and those should get me through the year easily. I also just changed the bearings on the 80mm Bullets so it is rolling smoothly. Instead of buying an expensive bearing tool to swap the bearings I spent about $5.00 on a bolt, a nut and 2 washers.
Gary Hudson
Active Member
Based on that article I bought some Flat Attack. I did so mainly because it was made specifically for tubes, lasts a long time without drying up, and cleans up easily with water. If you don't hear from me you can assume no news is good news.
Tuloose
Guru
The latest issue of Bicycling magazine compares 6 sealants with 2 different size punctures.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Some people like to keep the pressure lower for comfort, but on my Schwalbe Marathon training tires I use tubes with sealant inside, but to prevent pinch flats I inflate mine to at least 80psi, and usually to 90. The roads here are super smooth, but in 2 areas where my speed increases up to 45-50kph, the road has imperfections that has the highest potential to cause a pinch flat, and for those 2 sections alone is why I run my tire pressure so high. For me, comfort with lower pressure is just something I will sacrifice so I can bomb it through those 2 areas.
jond
Zen MBB Master
i use conti gp 5000 s tubed on Chinese yoleo current 50 mm disc brake carbon rims with 50 psi on my pelso.
No problem pinch flatting these. Very comfy. So tubed on your vendetta if they fit should be good. Max I run on vendetta is 28mm gp 4000s at 80 psi which I reckon are a bigger tyre compared to newer 5000 equivalent.
Great to know! After this season is over, I will clean up the tires and rims and tubes in with sealant at 50 psi. No more yearly clean up of dried sealant!
jond
Zen MBB Master
no problem. To be clear I don’t use sealant on my road bikes in any form at all. Just tubes. The only bike I use sealant with is my fatbike at 4 psi. Good luck with the sealant in tubes. Probably would add to the peace of mind.
be interested to see a 32 mm tyre mounted in terms of its front fork crown clearance.
Vendetta 28 mm largest I ever tried. Suppose rim choice makes a big difference.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I tried a 28mm Schwalbe Marathon Green Guard on a Scirocco wheel for the rear and it was too tall. It was rubbing the bottom brace where the rim brake mounts are. So, I put it on the front where there is plenty of clearance.
I've already mentioned my experiences, but just an update. When I got my V20 it had GP4000S tyres with ordinary butyl tubes. Over the first 1500kms I got about 4 punctures which were mostly on the front wheel and a bit of mucking about and mess to get sorted. Then I changed to some wheels off my DF that had GP5000 tubeless (with Stans race sealant). I took these wheels off the bike today with 2200kms added to them on the V20. Not a single stop for a tyre related issue. They feel great, are fast, and are so much more fuss free. I have pulled a few bits of wire out of the tyre that had gone through the tread and been sealed. I just notice them on the stand at home and pull them out and they remain sealed. I am confident I would have continued with my puncture ever 300kms or so with tubes, but so much happier with tubeless!
I got some wheels specifically for the V20 now, so the other wheels are going back where they belong on the DF. But the new wheels have a brand spanking new set of GP5000 tubeless along with some fresh sealant fitted and just did the first ride with them and they feel great. The new wheels were selected specifically for a good tubeless experience. They have no spoke holes so no rim tape. Seated up well with a floor pump! You just have to take it easy the first ride to scrub in the tyres as they are a bit slippery out of the box... I spin the front wheel going up the 15% section up from my house!
I got some wheels specifically for the V20 now, so the other wheels are going back where they belong on the DF. But the new wheels have a brand spanking new set of GP5000 tubeless along with some fresh sealant fitted and just did the first ride with them and they feel great. The new wheels were selected specifically for a good tubeless experience. They have no spoke holes so no rim tape. Seated up well with a floor pump! You just have to take it easy the first ride to scrub in the tyres as they are a bit slippery out of the box... I spin the front wheel going up the 15% section up from my house!
First puncture on the new wheels/tyres today. Looks like I went over something like a nail in some timber that was immediately pulled out leaving a hole of around 3-4mm. This was on the rear of my V20 at about 50kph down a hill. From a riding perspective it was pretty uneventful. I heard about 2-3 seconds of air release (making the usual Pssht.... pssht noise as it rotated) starting loud and quickly getting quieter until it stopped. I kept rolling and made sure the rear felt like it had enough air to keep going which it did (still felt like 70psi after starting at around 80psi). I just completed my ride. At home I checked and found the 3-4mm hole which had repaired itself, so no need to do anything. Gotta love tubeless!! I'm now up to about 3000kms without a road side stop after 4 stops for repairs in 1500kms on tubes before.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Here here. I've got a few good tires that aren't tubeless so I'm using Bontrager tubes with the removable cores and putting in a bit of sealant until those tires wear out. After that, it is straight tubeless for me. Also, the next wheels I buy will be tubeless compatible for sure.
So I had my first road side stop on tubeless since late 2019 for a total of 2 stops in around 15,000kms (on roads that typically get a puncture every 3-400kms with tubes). The puncture was similar to the last time. It seems that GP5000s with good sealant are very resilient to small to medium holes and even quite large holes in the outer centre part of the tyre where the sealant must sit when going quickly. But if you happen to hit the edge of some sharp debris that makes a tear in the sidewall closer to the rim, the sealant is not in that area and cannot seal the hole. I had only one CO2 with me and no pump so I did not attempt to put the hole at the bottom (in the pool of sealant) and pump up which may have worked... but if it did not I was stuck. So I poured out the sealant and wiped out the inside of the tyre, fitted a tube and pumped up with CO2. Probably took about 2-3 minutes longer than a standard tube replacement. Once home I removed the tube, applied a tube repair patch to the inside of the tyre at the tear and refitted with sealant and back to tubeless... for hopefully another couple of years without a stop!
CruzinCambridge
Active Member
@vosadrian I've been riding tubeless on my DF bike for a few years. Plan to put some on my S30 when I can get around to it. I think the lower pressure will help with comfort and front wheel grip. I've had mixed experience using tube patches on the tire. My first big puncture it worked, but the second it didn't. I think the Stan's sealant leaves a film on the inside of the tire that makes the patches not stick... even after I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and sanded it down. I was using Orange before which might have been better and plan to move to that on my next setup. I've also bought a tire patch kit but haven't had the need to use it yet. Which sealant are you using?
