What did you do to your Cruzbike today?

snilard

Guru of hot glue gun
After my blow out / crash a couple of months ago and subsequent endless snow (it's melted now but even more forecast for next week), I gave the V a bit of TLC and got it into my chosen Sportive configuration.

The Sram bar tape was mangled in the crash - it's been replaced with some Batman stealth tape (extra thick faux leather Lizard Skins, very comfortable).

The Garmin Vectors were replaced by Garmin but I decided not to risk them again so I'm keeping them for training. I have put a Power2Max NGEco spider powermeter on the V which is working out well. I figure it's less vulnerable than the pedals, which were not very robust.

I have also taken the race case off. I have come to the conclusion that for my current cycling plans, it's not going to work out, I need something I can reach into while cycling. I have put on an Axiom Granfondo H2O Seat Bag which fits the curve of the neck rest very nicely. It's big enough to stash a ton of food, castelli rain jacket, phone etc and can be unzipped while cycling to extract food as you ride.

I also wrapped a Velcro strap round the neck rest, added a couple of Velcro stick on strips to the back of an ICE VTX neck rest pad and stuck it on. Really comfy!

I've kept the fastback double century bags on. I can stash 4L of fluid in there for long rides. I should be self supported now for upwards of 100 mile rides without the need to stop at all.

Tour de Lauder in 4 weeks, assuming the snow clears in time. I had a blast last year at this sportive although I wasn't that fit, so I'm hoping to make a bit more of a statement in terms of finishing time this year. I'm a fair bit stronger and on a faster bike. We'll see how it goes.
Do You have original chainstay? Can You, please, take photo of your power2max from other side?
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
It's the 2018 model chainstay. I can take a photo of the other side when I get home but there's not much to see as the whole thing is in the spider assembly on the right hand side. Is there anything in particular you are looking for that you want me to focus in on?
 

snilard

Guru of hot glue gun
It's the 2018 model chainstay. I can take a photo of the other side when I get home but there's not much to see as the whole thing is in the spider assembly on the right hand side. Is there anything in particular you are looking for that you want me to focus in on?
I would like to see clearance between power meter and chainstay. I have older chainstay what clamps to external BB not to boom. My old chainstay should be incompatible with power2max power meter. I would like to confirm my hypothesis.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Here you go. Ignore the mud, I was mid ride on a dirty country road.
 

Attachments

  • E00DB2C3-076F-4FB1-9042-E3F6CB7A0EF2.jpeg
    E00DB2C3-076F-4FB1-9042-E3F6CB7A0EF2.jpeg
    138.7 KB · Views: 64

Kenneth

Well-Known Member
That's a pretty cool idea. It never occurred to me that it was possible to run wire that way.

Finished building my new S40.
The final pieces of the puzzle arrived yesterday: HED 650b rims laced to a SON dynohub and Rohloff hubs. With Compass 42mm tires.

If you have some patience and a bit of persistence you can run the dynohub wiring through the seat support tube:
View attachment 6125

The upper seat attachment "wings" are a good place to mount a pair of taillights:
View attachment 6127
 

Bill K

Guru
I would like to see clearance between power meter and chainstay. I have older chainstay what clamps to external BB not to boom. My old chainstay should be incompatible with power2max power meter. I would like to confirm my hypothesis.
This is an old picture, but I had a Power2Max classic (type S with 130mm BCD) installed on the V20 with the old chainstay.
I had a 2.5mm spacer on the shaft to prevent contact with the chainstay clamp and you can see on the photo where it still scraped.
IMG_0024.jpg
It worked, but just barely, and using the spacer meant that the left crank arm was not completely inserted over the spline. That weakens it but did not cause me any problems. But then my max power is rather "conservative".
 
I gave mine more space in the gym/bikeshed

I also rearranged the trainer orientation so I'll be able to open the door and look out at the rain I'm avoiding.

@nobrakes, whereabouts are you? I am actually just outside Ely, and end up doing most of my audaxes with ACME or CAM Audax for convenience.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
@ElyDave I'm in the Scottish Borders just south of Edinburgh. Also just south of the very fine Laid Back Bikes where I have spent way more money than I should have in the past couple of years :)
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Yesterday I took off the 25C Schwalbe Duranos and replaced with 28C Schwalbe Ones in preparation for a couple of longer training rides for the upcoming sportive in 3 weeks. They fitted with plenty of clearance which was great. I haven't tried the Ones yet and widest I've gone on this bike so far is 25C so I'm hoping for a bit more comfort and security on the cracks and bumps.

And guess what - it's snowing again. Crazy. I hope the easter bunny has goretex socks on.
 

snilard

Guru of hot glue gun
I have done 2 changes to my V recently. One is great, one is mixed bag.

I have cleaned my drivetrain (including 4 chains) from old wet lube and switched to Molten Speed Wax. It took a lot of time and a lot of degreeser. But I hope that It was worth the time. It is so clean now. I only don't like that wear of chainrings may be seen now.

I also switched from from 40 tooth Absolute black to 42 Wolftooth extender chainring. This upgrade does not work well.
I have 2x10 setup with Sram Apex shifters and X.7 (type 2.1) rear deraileur. My cassete is Shimano XT modified to 13-40 (42 now). Shifting was great with 40 tooth biggest cog. I used original B-screw screwed in to max. For 42 tooth cog I had to use longer b-screw. There is narrow ramp on my deraileur what is touched b-screw's end. There is also big lateral play in b-screw after change. So I added self locking nut to end od b-screw to make connection more secure.
The problem is that it is not downshifting from the big cog even with this longer b-screw. I can put there even longer screw but I am not sure that there will be still some space on ramp for secure contact with screw.

@ratz Your setup was the same, wasn't is?
How to solve this issue?

EDIT: Added photos.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0280.jpg
    IMG_0280.jpg
    149.5 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_0281.jpg
    IMG_0281.jpg
    169.3 KB · Views: 34
Last edited:

super slim

Zen MBB Master
I have done 2 changes to my V recently. One is great, one is mixed bag.

I have cleaned my drivetrain (including 4 chains) from old wet lube and switched to Molten Speed Wax. It took a lot of time and a lot of degreeser. But I hope that It was worth the time. It is so clean now. I only don't like that wear of chainrings may be seen now.

I also switched from from 40 tooth Absolute black to 42 Wolftooth extender chainring. This upgrade does not work well.
I have 2x10 setup with Sram Apex shifters and X.7 (type 2.1) rear deraileur. My cassete is Shimano XT modified to 13-40 (42 now). Shifting was great with 40 tooth biggest cog. I used original B-screw screwed in to max. For 42 tooth cog I had to use longer b-screw. There is narrow ramp on my deraileur what is touched b-screw's end. There is also big lateral play in b-screw after change. So I added self locking nut to end od b-screw to make connection more secure.
The problem is that it is not downshifting from the big cog even with this longer b-screw. I can put there even longer screw but I am not sure that there will be still some space on ramp for secure contact with screw.

@ratz Your setup was the same, wasn't is?
How to solve this issue?
Could a Shimano Ultegra 6703 3 ring front derailleur be used??
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/s...10-speed-front-derailleur-braze-on/94354.html


Sorry this will NOT work as I think that SRAM uses a different cable pull ratio to Shimano!!!
 

bladderhead

Zen MBB Master
I got rained on. By rain that had already fallen. Huge puddle in the road. Hardly any water on my side of the road, all on the other side. Oncoming car did not slow down, hit puddle, puddle went up in the air, puddle came down all over me, car drove on.

Was that person demonstrating how to be an actual douche?
 

bladderhead

Zen MBB Master
I looked at my speedo. 27mph. At that moment both tyres went bang. I think I was braking before I hit the road, but I left some skin there. I went onto the wrong side of the road. Lucky there was no cars coming. Front tyre is badly worn, and now has a small tear. Continental GP4000S, 1500 miles at most. I know I should have noticed the wear, but I have never known tyres to wear that quickly, and these are supposed to be good for a lot of miles. The Conti Contact I used to have on my Grasshopper lasted ages.
 
Top