Mathew Fy
GRU
PLA+ with nozzle at 230* C. Spray painted. I just need to avoid leaving it in a hot car. Because I measured a little off for the front I had to (easily) reshape it on the slider using a heat gun.
What do I do with to much time on my hands ???
- Thread starter Andrew Wilson
- Start date
Bill Wightman
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I am having consistently good miscellaneous hobby prints with Hatchbox brand PLA at 220C. Will be trying PETG as cores for carbon fiber overwrap (have all the supplies) or maybe even PLA (thick wall with 50% infill triangular) as compression forms for some structural bike parts using chopped carbon fiber. Even if it is not for the bike, it is so much fun just to try stuff. Easy Composites LLC has some great videos.
Randyc3
Well-Known Member
Very cool! Just started working on a crude design for my edge 1040. Would you mind sharing the CAD file? This looks so much better than what I started developing.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Bill, thanks for reminding me of Easy Composites LLC's Youtube channel. Watching him build this was great...
Bill Wightman
Well-Known Member
Two things I would change to that Easy Composites procedure. I did some adhesion and smoothness tests for the carbon fiber layup and I think that just using 2" wide strips of polypropylene tape (~.002" thick) is much better than the vacuum bagging film as a barrier. You get near perfect conformity to the male mold and it is not such a disaster as when I was spraying tack adhesive and handling a large plastic sheet. Be sure you have hard-coated the polystyrene foam with epoxy first and done a Bondo-type smoothing, otherwise the tape will not adhere properly. I left out the peel-ply cloth because in the test I did it always got buried in the epoxy and would not peel off. It just takes a little sanding/alcohol to prep any areas you may want to bond structure. I put two coats of spray mold-release agent on the tape. Next thing I need to do for this (right) side of the fairing is to sand and polish the outer epoxy to a perfect finish and then see if it pops off the tape like it did in my tests. Attached are a few views. The cloth-layup outer epoxy needs some sanding and polishing, the other pic is foam with tape on it that the cloth was placed over. I went with two carbon fiber cloth layers instead of three because the stiffness felt right and it drops the left + right sides shell weight from 21 to 14lb. There are 3D printed attachments to the V20 frame and other stuff that will add ~3 lb. Even if this thing does not work, it is a lot of fun to work on.
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Bill Wightman
Well-Known Member
That looks like a good printer. These printers have really matured. They are like toasters. I would suggest starting with basic filaments without all the matte, shine or other added features. They seem to weaken the filament. HatchBox is a reliable brand at a reasonable cost. I will be printing first PETG soon so cannot talk from experience on epoxy bonding. Looks fine if you give it a good 60 or 120 sandpaper grit key at the epoxy bond and wipe down with alcohol. You could even model or grind in surface features to help bonding. Also curing the epoxy at 100-120 F for a 2-3 hours makes it hard as a rock. Treat the bond like you would a Velcro hold, good in shear, poor in tension. Here is a link I found:Ok, you guys better be right.The Ender 3 S1 Pro should arrive in the next few days. I like the idea making small molds and brackets with the 3D printer. Especially would like to know how well epoxy bonds to PETG. Thanks for the inspiration!
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/bonding...adhesion/common-stress-types-adhesive-joints/
Good luck with the printer, bonding to the platen is often a challenge. Sometimes a "raft" is required. Also I have settled on cheapest blue painters tape with a surface coating of glue stick. Others leave out the tape but I never have to clean the plate this way. I seem to be printing 24/7 with my interests and my wife's also.
Randyc3
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Have been using MAS epoxy for all my projects. Maybe I’ll do some pull tests to get an understanding of tension properties.
-For a release agent I’ve been using Saran Wrap for my projects. I should probably start using a true mold release agent and do it properly. Also started using peel ply on all my projects since it leaves a nice surface for bonding. With some sanding and coat or 2 of epoxy you can get a smooth surface if desired. Will be interesting to see what i can do. Anything to spend less time band sawing and drum sanding! Cheers!
-For a release agent I’ve been using Saran Wrap for my projects. I should probably start using a true mold release agent and do it properly. Also started using peel ply on all my projects since it leaves a nice surface for bonding. With some sanding and coat or 2 of epoxy you can get a smooth surface if desired. Will be interesting to see what i can do. Anything to spend less time band sawing and drum sanding! Cheers!
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Mathew Fy
GRU
Not printed, but here’s an okay box.I got the Ender 3 S1 as well - for Xmas for my daughter but I’ve been using it more than her.
Moose pack question (for the V20C)
Question on the moose pack - I know there is 'one coming' for the V20C, is there a reason we can't use this one? Just asking, as right now I have zero places to put tools, tube, etc.... :D
forum.cruzbike.com
Randyc3
Well-Known Member
I got the Ender 3 S1 as well - for Xmas for my daughter but I’ve been using it more than her.
Derek
Active Member
Ooooo, that's a start! You have a CAD file for that? Trying to learn the ropes of FreeCAD over here.Hi,
Its a start, but have to do my Garmin 1040 holder 1st. Maybe someone can suggest a better name?
Randyc3
Well-Known Member
Hi, yes and happy to share. Tell me what format FreeCAD can accept for import and I can post it or send me a PM. Cheers!
Mathew Fy
GRU
Randyc3
Well-Known Member
Working through the design for my edge 1040 holder. This first version isn’t as cool looking as Matt’s. Wanted mine a bit higher in my field of view. Might use the top as a layup mandrel for some carbon plies and then bond these to the 3D printed base. Slicer software estimated 90 grams for the full 3D printed part..bit heavy. Thanks to all for the inspiration.
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Bill Wightman
Well-Known Member
Wanted to put in an update for the V20 front fairing project. I printed some temporary 3D PLA supports to optimize placement of the (right) half of the fairing. Will print final fixed length versions in PETG eventually. Only used 2 layers of carbon cloth to keep things light in skin then structured it with foam core and more cloth in 2" wide stiffeners inside. Made a huge difference in rigidity one half shell is only ~3-4 lb, so is coming out lighter than I thought it would. Made a cutout for the knees, derailleur, and foot-to-ground access. The shoe/crank rotation leaves ~1" at all positions with my cleat position. The V20 has some good support mount bolt-on options up and down at the crank shaft area. I need to print a structure to go down from crank to lower fairing opening near wheel to prevent fairing roll motion down there. All that and a bunch of gaffer's tape and I will be out in the neighborhood soon giving the right side a slow speed road test.
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Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
That looks awesome Bill! Can't wait to see how it fares, and with both sides on. Love those HED wheels too.
Bill Wightman
Well-Known Member
Me too. Its one of those "do a little bit each day" and it magically starts to take shape. If it turns out close to the simulations then it should add another 30% reduction in wattage at the same speed, similar to the V20 advantage over DF bikes. I have had those HED wheels for about eight years. They are tough. Blew out some front spokes twice with a chain drop and the wheel was fine. I have had good luck buying expensive wheels and riding them until they become obsolete, as in cannot get replacement bearings or hubs. Never have taco-ed a wheel but have hit some big potholes riding fast at night.
