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Nice job, Lavs... It just gets faster from here... Since you're a powerful rider, I'm looking forward to great things in your future. Cheers, Doug

Post the one you're building, so we can see 'em all in one place!

Relax and give it a little time... You'll love it. Also take a look at Kim's Riding instructions: Never Fail Riding instructions at http://www.cruzbiking.com.au/First Ride

Thanks, Bruce I thought about using the bullhorns on this build, but I had a nice set of brifters, and John was right, I did find the original bars to work out very well. But if you're looking for the Vendetta experience, I suspect the bullhorns will work very nicely - and awesome with Di2...

Nice. Very, very nice. This bike is incredibly efficient. Rolls along on the flats at good speed (no cyclometer at this point, but by passing cars I'd estimate 20 mph is just a stroll.) Corners nice and clean. After the first ride, I pushed the bars out about an inch and...

Facing the front dropouts There is a little room for expanding the dropout spacing on the fork, it you want everything to line up just so. Modifying the fork is risky - at this point in production we aren't able to replace forks where mistakes are made in modifications. They're too...

Tire sizes are black magic French - 700c, 650b, 650c, ISO - 27 1/4" = 630mm, 700c = 622mm, 650c = 571mm, 26" = 559mm, 24" = 520mm, 24" = 507mm, 20" = 451mm, 20" = 406mm, 16" = 349mm, 20" = 307mm. Then there are Schwinn-specific 26" tires, and the old 26" road bike tires that I have...

Yep... Larry, That's what you need. I think if you get a shifter worked out you're probably in good shape. Dean, 29'r wheels are 700c. They usually just have a higher spoke count and 135mm hubs. These mounted the same tires I had on a pair of Aero 67's perfectly.

Carboyoke Chainstays Hi Larry, There is enough compliance in the carboyoke structure before everything is tightened up that the wider hub is happily accommodated. I see no distortion in the front structure when the QR is pulled up tight. Looking at your DF Rohloff installation photos...

Quest seatpost One of my seat angle adjustment concepts involves using the upper section of a Quest 3.0 seatpost inserted where the headrest goes in the standard bike. This requires the seat back to be reinforced, probably a piano hinge to be added to the seatback/seatbase interface and...

There's something to this "build a bike at at the beach" thing Quiet, no interruptions...

That's why I'm taking both sets of bars... ...and half my shop to the beach.

WTB mountain road handlebars Hi Ivan, Being short, I need extra longitudinal knee space when everything else is otherwise correctly adjusted, so I made a handlebar shim and used my 26mm WTB bars. The bars we supply with the bike work for almost everyone, but my body dimensions are...

Rohloff Hi Larry, Since the Rohloff hub is offered with a QR option, I cautiously think it will work. I'm researching it now. I'm using a Quest 2.0 Dualdrive hub to simulate the size of a Rohloff hub. The remaining questions are about the torque arm and shifter. Cheers...

Okay, I admit it. 1. I'm a tease. 2. My phone camera stinks even more since I updated the operating system. What you see here is a Silvio 2.0 with essentially a Quest 2.0 braking system. Avid BB5 Road calipers, 160mm front disc, 140mm rear disc, Shimano 105...

Nice bike... From the specs page, this is what will and won't work: Fork FC-990 Fuji Bonded Carbon Trekking w/ 1 1/8" Cro-Mo Steerer Carbon forks will not work with the conversion kit, Point loading from the adapter brackets will break the fork legs eventually Crankset...

The fact that you're tall works in your favor here in big ways My issues were primarily that I have a 39" x-seam, and in order to get the bike stable at a stop I had to move the seat back pretty far. And because of my short x-seam, the front chainstays operated at an extreme angle, so the...

Not bad... Looks like that will work fine. Besides, if you ride in the big/big combo, Sheldon's ghost will swat you... Not unusual to see a 50mm chainline on MTB's... So this might work very well. Good Onya... Doug

Rubber insulating washers are a good idea I, too, like to avoid grinding on stuff. A rubber washer on both sides of the seat surface (this can be as simple as a piece cut from an inner tube) will reduce stress on the seat and help avoid cracking over time. When I bolted Maria's...

Reminds me of where I started in August, 2005 I started with an old Schwinn LeTour mitxe-type frame. Couldn't get it to work at the time, but knowing what I know now, it wouldn't be too hard...