How to make your Vendetta as fast as possible

[super slim]

Got my 3D printer yesterday. It's all assembled, but I still have to dial in the baseplate and calibrate it.

Going to start making test parts for the bike.

Computer cover is on the list; mirror fairings, too. Definitely disk brake caliper fairings, too. Anyone ever try a derailleur fairing?

Seems like it could have a good impact on a CB, with the derailleur being up front and all...

I like the derailleur cover idea, not for Aero, but to keep road crap off the idler gears!
When you get it sorted, I would be interested in a .stl or .3mf file, as I have a 3D printer as well, using PETG.

 

[Rob Lloyd]

I like the derailleur cover idea, not for Aero, but to keep road crap off the idler gears!
When you get it sorted, I would be interested in a .stl or .3mf file, as I have a 3D printer as well, using PETG.

I'm now trying to figure out what I can use to make the models. I have CadKey99, which I have used for years and know well. But, I lost my CadKey solids install disk (!!!). So, now I get to learn something new. Unfortunately, everything these days seems parametric. Ugh. Don't need the overhead for these little parts...

 

[super slim]

I'm now trying to figure out what I can use to make the models. I have CadKey99, which I have used for years and know well. But, I lost my CadKey solids install disk (!!!). So, now I get to learn something new. Unfortunately, everything these days seems parametric. Ugh. Don't need the overhead for these little parts...

I use free Fusion360 for non commercial use, and it is very different to Autocad (but owned by Autocad!), and there are heaps of new up to date U Tube tutorials on the web!
Most 3D printer users, use Fusion360.

 

[Rob Lloyd]

I use free Fusion360 for non commercial use, and it is very different to Autocad (but owned by Autocad!), and there are heaps of new up to date U Tube tutorials on the web!
Most 3D printer users, use Fusion360.

Yep, that’s what I’m test driving now. It’ll work. It just doesn’t work the way I’m used to working. Gotta relearn.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Looking forward to seeing the end products guys

 

[Andrew Wilson]

Yep, that’s what I’m test driving now. It’ll work. It just doesn’t work the way I’m used to working. Gotta relearn.

One thing keeps me from retiring, access to all the software and equipment

 

[Henri]

Definitely disk brake caliper fairings

I hope, you live in a flat area.

Marvin's bike is a Troxy, which is a low volume Euro builder along the same lines as Zokra or Velokraft.

Quess you mean Toxy ZR? Just visited Toxy this week. Would have bought the ZR with their original tailbox, If I hadn't decided to go MBB. (Still liking the idea to have someone modify the ZR into MBB.)

 

[vosadrian]

here’s another option….BBK from Australia….I have a set of these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194306075275?hash=item2d3d8b6a8b:g:56kAAOSw~vpaAScF

I went the BBK 155mm crankset. Fitment was super easy if you are swapping out the standard SRAM cranks that come on a V20. Seem very good quality for the price (half other options!). First ride today, they seem to work nicely. High cadence is easier, and combined with a larger 52T ring, I am pedaling out to around low 60s kph now at around 100 cadence.

 

[Mrnelson]

I'm wondering if any of you have thoughts about bottom bracket height and wheel aerodynamics? That is, my BB is pretty low because of my height (6'2") and mid-foot pedal position. I guess what I'm wondering is, Does the dirty/turbulent air created by my feet nullify some of the gains of an aero wheel set-up more than someone whose BB is largely above the wheel? Obviously I suspect "yes", but wonder if anyone has thoughts?

FWIW I use wheel covers on a carbon front wheel (I don't really have twitchiness issues until the wind gusts hit 15mph and even then I feel pretty in control) and an 88mm deep rim on the rear. But it seems to me my feet / pedals are covering roughly 40% of the height of the wheels and therefore become the dominant source of turbulence.

 

[Mathew Fy]

thoughts about bottom bracket height and wheel aerodynamics?

Yes, there’s a sweet spot for bb height. Too low and air flow under the seat is turbulent, too high and the knees throw turbulence above.
Cruzbike’s wind tunnel tests revealed this. You could do some of your own CdA tests comparing different chainstay lengths. You’ll probably get the best with the bb height close to hip level. Shorter crank length may clean up aerodynamics as well.

 

[vosadrian]

Usually when you fit a shorter crank, you would adjust the boom length so that you have a similar length from hips to the pedal at its furthest position. So the boom would usually lengthen about the amount you shorten the cranks by. So just consider this as this will likely lower the BB a little more.... but not as much as you reduce how far down you feet go... so should be a win in aero... but maybe you lose a little of what you gain.

I am curious as to why you cover the front wheel but not the back? It may not make as much difference on the back, but it would be some almost free speed if you are already coping with the front cover in wind without issue. I have the rear covered sometimes and 88mm on front. I ride in pretty windy conditions close to traffic often, so I decided front covers was a risk I was not willing to take. I would like to try front covers in a controlled environment some time to see how much it helps.

 

[Mrnelson]

Usually when you fit a shorter crank, you would adjust the boom length so that you have a similar length from hips to the pedal at its furthest position. So the boom would usually lengthen about the amount you shorten the cranks by. So just consider this as this will likely lower the BB a little more.... but not as much as you reduce how far down you feet go... so should be a win in aero... but maybe you lose a little of what you gain.

I am curious as to why you cover the front wheel but not the back? It may not make as much difference on the back, but it would be some almost free speed if you are already coping with the front cover in wind without issue. I have the rear covered sometimes and 88mm on front. I ride in pretty windy conditions close to traffic often, so I decided front covers was a risk I was not willing to take. I would like to try front covers in a controlled environment some time to see how much it helps.

Honestly I have the front cover only right now because I was able to buy it rather than go to the trouble of making it myself but as I'm able to control it pretty easily I plan on making covers for the rear as well. [afaik no one makes them for a front, i.e., the v20's rear]

 

[vosadrian]

I have a dyma rear cover ( for a traditional front wheel). I had to convince dyma it was a rear wheel with photos of the bike before they would do it but they did it and it fits my Yoeleo rear wheel very nicely.

 

[Frito Bandito]

I'm wondering if any of you have thoughts about bottom bracket height and wheel aerodynamics? That is, my BB is pretty low because of my height (6'2") and mid-foot pedal position. I guess what I'm wondering is, Does the dirty/turbulent air created by my feet nullify some of the gains of an aero wheel set-up more than someone whose BB is largely above the wheel? Obviously I suspect "yes", but wonder if anyone has thoughts?

FWIW I use wheel covers on a carbon front wheel (I don't really have twitchiness issues until the wind gusts hit 15mph and even then I feel pretty in control) and an 88mm deep rim on the rear. But it seems to me my feet / pedals are covering roughly 40% of the height of the wheels and therefore become the dominant source of turbulence.

As Matthew said the proper chainstay length will probably make you a bit more aero. Do you know if your chainstays are the long or short ones? If they are the short ones you might be able to find someone who is willing to swap with you if the year model are compatible. The bike I bought is a 2018, and was made for someone taller so mine are the long ones. However, I live in Japan and don't know how much or long shipping would be.

 

[Mrnelson]

I have a dyma rear cover ( for a traditional front wheel). I had to convince dyma it was a rear wheel with photos of the bike before they would do it but they did it and it fits my Yoeleo rear wheel very nicely.

Oh, nice, thanks, I will contact them.

As Matthew said the proper chainstay length will probably make you a bit more aero. Do you know if your chainstays are the long or short ones? If they are the short ones you might be able to find someone who is willing to swap with you if the year model are compatible. The bike I bought is a 2018, and was made for someone taller so mine are the long ones. However, I live in Japan and don't know how much or long shipping would be.

Interesting. Mine is, I'm pretty sure, the standard chain stay. Here's a photo, anyone with knowledge have any thoughts on whether the longer chain stay would improve matters? The little reading I've done it seems riders have issues with low speed control?

 

[GetBent]

Just a quick note.

I have been on the "V" (on a smart trainer) for the past 6 weeks, because I have an "allergic" reaction to rain and snow. The trike has been parked since then. The wheel covers, both the window film and the Monokote are still holding up, and I plan on using them next season.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Glad to hear GetBent. My Oracover (Japan's version of Monokote) on my 80mm Bullet is still holding up well too. It really hasn't even needed to be reheated to tighten it up for a really long time either. Since it is snowing here in Tokyo today, and I've had a bit too much time on my hands, I was thinking that it might be fun to use some of the leftover pieces to cover the small triangle between the moose pack and rear wheel.

 

[DavidCH]

It would make sense if you moved the derailleur above the wheel and put an aero cover over the top part of the wheel, which would then cover partially the derailleur. Practicality 0 as the hanger would have to move but gains... huge.

(Derailleur would have to be redesigned too)

 

[LarryOz]

It would make sense if you moved the derailleur above the wheel and put an aero cover over the top part of the wheel, which would then cover partially the derailleur. Practicality 0 as the hanger would have to move but gains... huge.

(Derailleur would have to be redesigned too)

Of course you could just totally get rid of the derailleurs and make it a single speed

 

[DavidCH]

There is that inteligent hub that's been designed with internal gearing, why not ditch the derailleur and just have that.

https://classified-cycling.cc/how-it-works

I suspect though , the hub size would not be compatible with the v20 ... didn't look into it. Perhaps the new vendetta would be more compatible when it comes out in April.

Ideal for sebring, might need someone to give you a gentle push though.