My Very First Recumbent is a V20

[MrSteve]

Mr. Bandito, you might find this tip useful:
Do you know a place that has enough sand and/or gravel?
Enough to make you fearful?
Well, come to a stop on that spot and practice starting.
When you master starting in gravel and sand, your confidence in your skill will be ... adequate.
(I cheated. The driveway I learned this on was 1/10th of a mile long. That was a lot of fun!)
You're welcome and good luck!

 

[3bs]

It was awkward going so slow on it while my friend tried to keep up

yes, speed is actually a stabilizer for the bike. i think i would qualify that to mid range speed is a stabilizer for the bike high speed is not a destabilizer, but the bike, just like most bikes,( but maybe a wee bit more) is increasingly sensitive to inputs at speeds over 35 mph.

however, in my view one of the great v20 epiphanies is the art of low speed riding. i often ride with guys who are just not fast. nor do they want to be. 12-14 mph is what they like to ride. so then i decide what i am going to ride with them to go that speed. often that is a trike, or the t50 of the sofrider. but, (except for frankentrike) that means i am riding a bike that weighs 10 more lbs than the v. who said i wanted to work harder to go slower?

so riding the v at 10-14 is actually quite nice. BUT, remember i ride with a wedge, so i am not laying down. i have this nice upturn at the end of the seat that makes my head and shoulders more upright. (yes know n+1 buy an s 40 for slow rides LOL) this actually is great practice because that is the ideal speed to work on leg steering.

i don't mean no hands, because i suck at that, but i do mean directing the bike primarily with your legs and a slow but deliberate pedaling motion, and lots of coasting. and practicing one handed riding. this is all more data for the brain to log and use for your fast riding.

i think there is a learning watershed when your body accepts that you actually have four steering and stabilization contacts with the bike not two, i.e. your hands AND your feet help you steer. this is quite different than a classic road bike where you steer with your arms, and stabilize with your arms and your seat between your legs more than your feet. bmx and freestylers understand foot and hand control better than most , and modern downhillers also have more and more of that.

low speed control and relaxing riding control are essential to high speed thought. you really just have to get used to coasting 80% of the time, and your friend will complain about your loud freewheel.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Thanks MrSteve. There is a spot that has gravel, but they are difficult to find here in Japan because they keep the streets so clean here hahaha.

With that said, by using only the big ring on the front (50 tooth) I was able to go up every single incline on my usual route, and only had to get on the lowest gear on the RD right at the end of the 2 most difficult climbs. I believe I can do a 1X12 with a 53 tooth on the front with an 11 tooth as the smallest (currently 12), and 1-2 larger than the current largest on the rear. This will be cheaper on the Di2 setup, and get rid of 1 cable. If possible I would like to only have the Di2 satellite switch for the rear derailleur and the two TT brake levers I have in mind.

 

[Frito Bandito]

3bs, I was thinking about a wedge for a bit, but 95km at about 23kph was plenty of time to help force me to get my balance on it and let me know that I'll be fine without it when I am riding alone, which is going to be about 99% of the time unless someone can keep up. I was able to use pedal steering a bit today because of the pace today but TBH, I was getting pretty bored going only as fast as my friend was. In the future though, I'll break out my "slow" bike when riding with him hahaha. But I sure did have to coast a lot more than usual today. I did notice how not having your feet at the 12:00 and 6:00 position when coasting is going to make it lean 1 way more than the other depending on which foot is more forward. It's fun learning the small details though.

 

[Mathew Fy]

water bottle was ejected 3 times

I've lost water bottles from the Headrest Cage Mount and from the Race Case, but never from an under-the-seat cage. It's very frustrating, especially when descending a long hill. Some riders have had success with wrapping tape around the bottle for more grip, some cages are probably more prone to this problem. Now I use either a water bag with drinking tube or bottles stuffed in the pack and stop to drink.

 

[Frito Bandito]

I saw a few pics of bikes with them under the seat and I I really like that idea. I have another set of cages I will try that I used on my TT bike, so I will put those on and change the angle a little. Maybe that will work for a while. Did those mount to the seat by drilling holes?

 

[cranky cyclist]

Thanks MrSteve. There is a spot that has gravel, but they are difficult to find here in Japan because they keep the streets so clean here hahaha.

With that said, by using only the big ring on the front (50 tooth) I was able to go up every single incline on my usual route, and only had to get on the lowest gear on the RD right at the end of the 2 most difficult climbs. I believe I can do a 1X12 with a 53 tooth on the front with an 11 tooth as the smallest (currently 12), and 1-2 larger than the current largest on the rear. This will be cheaper on the Di2 setup, and get rid of 1 cable. If possible I would like to only have the Di2 satellite switch for the rear derailleur and the two TT brake levers I have in mind.

I have a new S 40 and tried a 12 speed 9/50 cassette. Unfortunately it did not work for me as the chain was rubbing on the frame in the 9 chainring. So I had to settle for the limit screw to be adjusted so that it doesn't go beyond the 11 tooth. I don't know if this would also be a problem with the V20.

 

[RojoRacing]

XT labs Gorilla cages and normal water bottles. Normal bottle have a shape designed to lock into cages, many of the other that deviate from that set shape are all prone to ejection.

 

[Mathew Fy]

Did those mount to the seat by drilling holes?

The Cruzbike carbon seat previously came pre-drilled. If you drill the holes, make sure not to breathe in any fibers. Pictures show the seat on my S40, which needs spacers.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Silly me. I saw the holes pre-drilled in the seat and didn't even look closely enough to see if they were spaced the same as bottle cage holes. Yes, CF are particularly nasty, so I always do that outside when I cut my golf shafts as well. Thank you and my cats thank you for reminding me as well

 

[Frito Bandito]

I have a new S 40 and tried a 12 speed 9/50 cassette. Unfortunately it did not work for me as the chain was rubbing on the frame in the 9 chainring. So I had to settle for the limit screw to be adjusted so that it doesn't go beyond the 11 tooth. I don't know if this would also be a problem with the V20.

I see how it could be a problem going that wide, so a 1X11 should be plenty if a 12 doesn't fit. The money I save on not needing a FD could be spent on a top quality cassette since I already have a Dura Ace chain. There goes the retirement plan hahaha

 

[Frito Bandito]

XT labs Gorilla cages and normal water bottles. Normal bottle have a shape designed to lock into cages, many of the other that deviate from that set shape are all prone to ejection.

XT Gorillas are nice. I had a few ejections on the TT bike with the cheapos, so I might swap the ones that did hold 'em snugly. I think they are Ritchie.

 

[bladderhead]

When I got my XX1 cassette I found that the smallest cog was jamming on the frame. I put a washer on the drive-side end of the axle. Problem solved.

 

[cranky cyclist]

When I got my XX1 cassette I found that the smallest cog was jamming on the frame. I put a washer on the drive-side end of the axle. Problem solved.

What size washer did you use?

 

[Frito Bandito]

Many great tips so far. Thank you guys.

Next up is to mount the bottle cages under the seat. During yesterday's ride I had 2 more ejections even though I changed the angle of them to a more upright position. While riding, I stuck my hand back there a few times to try and push them down, and even try to pull one out to take a drink. It was not possible. I think them pointing in line with the seat like mufflers or jets was forcing me to over extend. I'll try lowering them on the headrest bars and pointing them forward is possible so let's see how that goes first. Pulling them from under the seat might require sitting up so I'd like to be able to grab them without stopping pedaling. They look great as "jets" though hahaha.

 

[benphyr]

Are you sure that they are jets? I thought the V20 is a rocket ship...

 

[bladderhead]

The washer for my gears has a hole just the right size to fit on the axle. Outer diameter is 2cm. I just happened to have it. The advantage of being a hoarder. I have had flat tyres on long journeys. Unlike some, I find it easy to get the front wheel off and on again, but I am neurotic about losing that washer. I do not remove the wheel if I am anywhere near a grating.

 

[benphyr]

Would a dab of glue hold the washer to the axle nut, axle, or fork?

And eliminate this small source of neuroticism? (Much of the neurotic is what makes us love you; don’t change that!)

 

[Frito Bandito]

Are you sure that they are jets? I thought the V20 is a rocket ship...

When the riders behind me ask what that noise was I will tell them it was a pulse jet

 

[bladderhead]

I might fix the washer to the cog with a tiny bit of loctite. It only matters when I get a front flat in the street. I do not want to get neurotic. That really worries me.

pulse jet

Have you been eating pulses?

Jet power is a lot more fun than a pedelec. When you overtake people you really burn them off.