My Very First Recumbent is a V20

3bs

whereabouts unknown
just get it over with and get a tailbox and put a bladder in it. bike will be faster and on board gymnastics are reduced.
 

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Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
just get it over with and get a tailbox and put a bladder in it. bike will be faster and on board gymnastics are reduced.
I love the paint job on your bike, and that rear disc is sweet too.

The first few times I tried to pull out a bottle while riding with them pointing towards the rear I almost crashed. Now they are pointing more vertical and I think I can reach just over my shoulder and access them with little effect on holding my line now. I don't think the aero penalty for them there is too bad since they sit behind my neck and shoulders, but I know it could be faster. We will see during the next ride if it is simple and effective enough without any rattling. If that doesn't work and the under seat mounts also are a PITA, then I will likely get the tailbox.

Ya know, like S-Works did with the Shiv and put the hydration in the sail or whatever they call it on the back, I had been wondering if there was some way to get the hydration into the frame on DF bikes. When assembling my V20, I noticed that the frame was large enough and could accommodate a sizable Camelbak style bladder if it were the right size and shape. Hmmmm :rolleyes:
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
Thx. I paint frames and wheel sets.

There are several good places to put a bladder where it doesn't interfere and can be aero. The back of the seat, the rest triangle all have options. I have sling bags that fits nicely under my seat along the frame for travel. Depending on how much I am carrying I can run one on either side.
My box is the old style. New style bigger.

I run the disk a fair amount. Unscientifically, it is worth 1+ mph above 18. Crosswinds much less of an issue than you would think.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
So far I have only 5 real rides on my Vendetta due to the bad weather this week. What I can say about the stock seat is that it is doing well for me. I had the suspension headrest set to hold my head tilted down as far as possible but too much wind is getting under my visor so I will likely put a bit of padding behind my shoulders. I don't want to increase drag, but flapping eyelids and microscopic junk flying into my eyes are a no no.

I have a pair of Campagnolo Bullet 50s on my road bike, and a pair of Zonda C17s in the closet.
I put the Bullet 50 on the rear and I will swap it out with a Zonda home made disc as soon as I can get it made. When my free hub arrives today I will get the other Zonda on the front for a bit until I can get a deeper front wheel.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
I use a mix of Shimano and Campagnolo, which makes it a tad difficult to get wheels sorted. To top it off, my V20 came with disc brakes, but since I always ride on the flats in dry weather I switched to rim brakes. I locked up the back far too often when I had disc brakes back there. Maybe with hydraulics it would have been different, but I have never tried them.

Here is my current setup which will hold me for a while...
Litespeed T1 = Campagnolo groupset, 35mm Scirocco front, and 50mm Bullet rear. 53/39 and 11/25 (rarely spinning out).
V20 = Shimano groupset, 35mm Scirocco on the front and 50mm Bullet on the rear. 50/?/? and 11/28 (routinely spinning out on the flats).

By chance I just found an 80mm Bullet front wheel that would fit perfectly on the rear of the V20. With the 50mm Bullet on the front it would be a nice setup for dry flats.
I can't pull then trigger on that because it would take away money for upgrading the drivetrain.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
I wanted to go with Di2, but a new set would have run me about $1400. I searched for a used set that was under $1000 but I couldn't find what I wanted which was bar end TT shifters in the ends of the original bars to clean them up. So, to keep me rolling until I can piece together the Di2 for cheaper I just decided to go with a Shimano 105 7000 2X11. 165mm cranks with a 53/36 and 11/28 for now. I asked the shop how much they would charge for installation and kicked that idea to the curb. I could use the $250 for something else and put everything on last night except the chain and bar tape, and still need to string up the derailleurs. I'll probably do that tonight and will be able to get it rolling soon.

I had replaced the disc brakes with Shimano 105 5800 rim brakes, and maybe it was just the wires and cable housings, but they felt pretty rough. The 7000s feel tons better.

The newish Tiagra 4700 set I took off might make it's way onto my work bike with the swapping of some trigger levers I saw in the shop where I bought the 105 set.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
During my search for a disc front wheel I found a Campagnolo Bullet 80 for $400 that I could put on the rear of my V20. Looks like I do the Monokote wheel cover for cheaper and more aero on a 35mm Campagnolo Scirocco instead. I am not sure of how many watt difference there is between a disc and that 80mm wheel but I want something faster than the 50mm Bullet I have on the rear now.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
After a bit of searching various bike shops in my area, I believe I have found a HED Jet 9 front for my V20 for about $400. It is used, but seems to be in good condition. I'll put a cheap front wheel I have collecting dust and ride to the shop tomorrow to check it out. If it looks good then on it goes.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
Well, the HED Jet 9 was gone, so I bought an 80mm Campagnolo Bullet for the rear instead for the same price. The shop staff put it on the wheel truing stand and it rolls true, and I checked the brake tracks and they were almost brand new. I used a tube with an 80mm stem and the only way I could get the pump to fit was to press the tube stem as hard as possible from the wheel side with my thumb. I finally got the nozzle on it and pumped up, but I am worried about trying to do that outdoors with a CO2 canister. Take a close look at the stem on the bottom of the wheel. That was cutting it close. The stem cap rubs on the stem stabilizer nut if it is tightened all the way hahaha. IMG_7768.JPG
 
looks nice, it will be interesting how you like it. I have china wheels 50 or maybe 60 deep (I cant remember) full carbon front and rear on my V20. I wouldnt want to go deeper on the front as I already notice it in strong cross winds. I have a China 80 deep full carbon rear wheel that was on my Baron but the hub is pretty cheap. I'm thinking of rebuilding that rim onto a front hub and Monokoting it to use on the rear of my V20 for next years Sr. Games TT... Still debating.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
The Sr. Games TT sounds like a lot of fun and the 80mm on the front is a good idea. There is plenty of time to find a decent hub until then and would love to see it if afterwards if you Monokote it.
I have 50mm Bullets on my DF bike and until today I had been using 1 of them on the rear of the V20. Those are durable wheels and I like them. I just wish they were more aero. The 80mm Bullet feels the same as the 50mm, and after getting home I swapped out the trashed tire I used just to get home for a Continental 5000, so I shouldn't have to worry about it for a while. Tomorrow I will remove the front wheel, and swap that Schwalbe Pro One for a Continental 5000 as well. Then I will keep my eye out for a proper front wheel for the V20.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
Swapped the aluminum 44mm OEM bars for a spare 42mm CF bar after chopping the ends off and rewrapping it. I am hoping to get Di2 satellite shifters and some TT brakes to clean it up even more, but that will take some time. Screen Shot 2020-12-14 at 19.35.05.png
 
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Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
@Frito Bandito

do you ride pretty straight armed?

I tried having my had position that high and just didn't like it over distance.

Yeah I do, I still have a little bit of "death grip" going on for the majority of each ride too. About 2/3 of the way through my usual bike ride there is a 2km stretch that is table-top smooth and usually downwind where I loosen my grip and power output and everything just feels incredibly efficient. I'd like to try a bar setup that gets my hands and arms closer together though. The 42mm bars did get my arms a bit closer which should be a bit more aero too. I will take it out soon to see if the narrower bars made it a more twitchy. I am loving it though. It's slowly getting more aero and I am getting my recumbent legs. Next Fuji trip with 1500m of climbing in about 110km is definitely going to be on the V20.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
After a bit of progress in average speed I hit a wall, and was starting to get pain in my left knee. I was expecting to be going faster on my V20 than on my DF by now, but didn't see as many PBs on Strava as I expected. Last night I moved the cleats about 1.5cm back towards my heel which felt much better, and made me feel as if I could put down more power. Today I did a PB (51km at 34.2kph) going up and down the same path. And that included slowing down 4 times to go through narrow gates (don't have to slow down at all on my DF bike going through them), 1 time when an idiot pulled over into the passing lane causing me to essentially come to a complete stop, and stopping once for a restroom break. Normally on my DF bike for the same route I only have to stop pedaling for about 2-3 seconds just before each gate as I coast through them then resume pedaling immediately. So, with the 4 slowdowns at the gates, and 2 full stops I still beat my best 50km time.

Oh, I almost forgot. I pinched the tires on the way out the door and they felt okay, but at home after the ride I checked them and they were both around 60psi. The path I cycle on is really flat and free of potholes so I probably lost a bit of time there.

I don't know how much power I am putting down since I don't have a home trainer nor any power meter on my bike, but Strava is telling me that it is about 213 watts. Not sure if that is right. Anyone else in here about 5'9", about 178lbs, and on a V20 that has a similar time/speed for 50km? Just looking for a ballpark figure, not shave your legs and eyebrows and wax the spokes so I can save 14 seconds over 50km :p


Screen Shot 2021-01-05 at 19.24.34.png
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
i pretty much ride everything with my cleat way back.

one thing you might want to try on flats to teach your legs to work more independently of your arms for both directional stability and power is to ride one handed and put the other hand on your chest. i suck at riding no handed, but as you teach your legs to steer both while you are pedaling and while you are coasting, you will naturally relax the death grip and it will also reduce wobble.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
I am doing good at keeping it straight now, and doing as you wrote will help even more so I should devote more time to it instead of just blasting up and down the river like I usually do. At least now I can wave at people going the opposite direction without causing a heart attack hahaha.

Many people focus on tire pressure because having the right pressure will eat up the road buzz, decrease rolling resistance, and be more comfortable which makes you faster. But another thing I occupy my mind with is trying to keep it as straight as possible in the straights and which line to take in turns to keep momentum. We all know that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line so weaving is actually adding distance to the ride. I know it is kind of petty, but weaving enough over long distances could add a significant amount of time in race situations. That's 1 of the things that keeps me occupied during the ride lol.

I'd still like to find a power calculator to estimate how much power a rider needs on a V20 to go various speeds until I get a real power meter.
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
I might suggest that you effort to keep the bike straight can lead to more wobble, more death grip and a longer time to develop proficiency.

this is a philosophical issue for me, but also an error I repeat in many disciplines.

I could not speak foreign languages until I stopped translating and let my brain think in the language.

I could not develop as a pistol shooter until I stopped trying to aim and let my brain talk directly to my hands

I didn’t become comfortable on the v20 until I let the bike track back and forth with pedalstrokes.

I could not flow through Kata until I stopped trying to execute kata.

the brain is a Fabulous data logger and processor. But to it needs raw data to process to then make adjustments and create the arm leg rhythm And an unhampered communication between the brain arms and legs that ultimately straightens the bike, or allows you brain to choose the line thru the corner and the amount of lean.

I was just in Florida for a the holidays and rode three bikes I had not ridden in a year. I had to allow my brain to get reacquainted with each before I felt comfortable and that include some ugly sloppy looking riding. And then I was able to enjoy the unique experience that each provides.







Stop TRYING to keep the bike straight and LET the bike go as it goes.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
So you are saying "Be one with the bike"? Ommmmmmm :p

I get it though. Occasionally I am. It just happens in short spurts that I am trying to lengthen. I am just too stubborn and determined to mash it through the ride. There are times and places to embrace the anger, but I really need to resist the dark side. I do have to admit that I got plenty of good leg workouts from trying to rip the cranks off hahaha.
 
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